Build Welcome home Matilda - faded like your favorite pair of jeans
- Thread starter CruiserTrash
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- Thread starter
- #242
Dude I haven’t even been able to get to my shop since painting the block. It’s that season where the kids are off to summer camps and going on trips so it’s been a lot of helping them pack, running to the store for last minute supplies, driving them to the airport or the mountains, etc. My daughter got off a plane from San Francisco at midnight last night and will be in town for about 30 hours before I drive her to a camp halfway to Classic Cruisers. Tonight one of the bands I’m in is playing a show a couple hours away and the other band is playing next weekend. There’s been an uptick in people buying the knick knacks I sell, too. Oh and a day job. Just slammed in general.Done yet?
Love you long time.
Next week I will likely be at the shop every night after work toiling away - but that depends on how the new cam bearings go with the machine shop. Tomorrow I’ll be ordering last minute parts, so some progress will be made this weekend. Life’s been like this for months, hence my need need for and absolute joy over being able to spend half a week in Poncha Springs. Long days of destructive wrenching notwithstanding , it was much needed relief.
Speaking of all that, why don’t you just come up here and help me?? I’ll eagerly await your reply
(Also FYI I had an hour phone call with legend BVB yesterday wherein he gave me pointers on building an engine faster than I could write them down. I think you know the guy I’m talking about.)
- Thread starter
- #243
Block has been dropped at the machine shop along with brand new Toyota cam bearings. On the phone and in person the guys over there are acting really confused, or like I’m a mental patient escaped from the asylum. @overhanger told me all I’m after is peace of mind, and if this little thing is what it takes, so be it. Anyway, they said it would be another week. My crunch time keeps getting more crunchy.
In other news, I’m about to send a bunch of stuff to be vapor blasted by a customer of mine in Texas. I’d much rather trade for work than throw cash at someone I don’t know, because everyone’s happy in a trade deal.
This is all I really want right now:
All the work is done, everything was successful, just get the f—k outta dodge and go camping. Probably won’t happen at all until SAS unfortunately. That’s an old photo by the way.
In other news, I’m about to send a bunch of stuff to be vapor blasted by a customer of mine in Texas. I’d much rather trade for work than throw cash at someone I don’t know, because everyone’s happy in a trade deal.
This is all I really want right now:
All the work is done, everything was successful, just get the f—k outta dodge and go camping. Probably won’t happen at all until SAS unfortunately. That’s an old photo by the way.
- Thread starter
- #244
Got it back with Toyota cam bearings installed. Honestly they don’t look much different. Had a chat with one of the owners of the shop, the guy who actually did the work.
Apparently the cam wouldn’t go in the bearings and they had to be line bored - on both the previous Chinese bearings he installed and on the Toyota ones. That might be the “wear marks” I saw. The pits and scratches though - not sure what that was about. These have fewer pits and scratches, but #3 now has a ridge mid-bearing. He assured me it’s fine. I don’t know enough to confirm that, but I’m kind of out of choices now.
Time to assemble.
Apparently the cam wouldn’t go in the bearings and they had to be line bored - on both the previous Chinese bearings he installed and on the Toyota ones. That might be the “wear marks” I saw. The pits and scratches though - not sure what that was about. These have fewer pits and scratches, but #3 now has a ridge mid-bearing. He assured me it’s fine. I don’t know enough to confirm that, but I’m kind of out of choices now.
Time to assemble.
If you have the right size bearings to match the cam specs, my understanding is you don’t need to line bore them. They should be sized correctly with the cam.
I would assume a shop that builds 2Fs know they go in a certain order so I wouldn’t think that would be the issue.
Unless the block was out of spec, needed bored and wasn’t, then maybe that caused the cam bearings to be off or something if they touched up your cam.
- Thread starter
- #246
They didn’t touch the cam, but apparently the bearings were so tight the came wouldn’t even get started. The guy tried to to chamfer the corner on the very first bearing to help the cam get started and that didn’t help. I asked if the casting of the block was out of spec and he said no, the bearings fit like they should - it’s the inner diameter. FWIW, the cam is a NOS Toyota unit I sourced from Delta Cam.
- Thread starter
- #247
Updates: I decided to go nuts and vapor blast a bunch of the engine parts. That means the engine will not be in before SAS. Let’s see how far a tired 2F can be pushed with low compression and death-rattle noises! I’m going to do a light tune up before I go and send it - valves, oil change, spark plugs, fuel & air filters. She’ll be fine I bet.
I still have some things to sort out before leaving in a few weeks though. The rear driveshaft splines seem to have a lot of play and I get vibrations at about 50mph. I’ll have that rebuilt by the local shop. The front driveshaft situation needs love to, at least some dressing up if not a complete and total fix. I had some popping noises on the Argentine Pass trail here in Colorado a couple weekends ago that I thought might be a bad birfield or a blown u-joint. Turns out it’s the transmission crossmember hitting the front shaft again (see post #194 above).
Notice the shiny metal on the corner of the DS flange? Yep, it’s still contacting the transmission mount. I bent it enough that it clears when the truck is on level ground with the wheels straight, but I guess with some flex or turning things move around just enough that it still interferes. I’m going to drop the front driveshaft, heat that mount up (hopefully without torching the rubber) and bend it some more. Maybe buzz off a little bit with an angle grinder too. This is much better than a broken birf or bad u-joint though.
For reference, here’s the amount of space on level ground with the wheels straight. Wrench for size:
Other stuff: I got a pair of third members out of a 62 with 4.11 gears a while back and my intent was to just pop them in. I chickened out. I forgot the flange bolt patterns were different on 62s, so I’d need to swap my flanges over. Then I started worrying about relieving pressure on the crush sleeve, how I’d never be able to get the right preload again, mesh pattern, etc. I got all up in my head about it. The 4.11 flanges also have about 1/4” or rotational freeplay. So I guess I’ll probably buy brand new flanges, seals, and bearings, and drop these off at a local shop to get set up the right way. Good time to move from crush sleeve to solid spacer, too. Yeah I could probably just mark the nut on the flange and retighten it to the same spot with the new flange, but … may as well “do it right”. Or I’m just to much of a chicken$hit and I should just go for it… At least I scraped all the crud off of them!
A very random thing happened too. My shop mate texted me and said “you left your tools outside and somebody leaned them up against the door.” I didn’t leave any tools outside, and from what I gather a stranger left these as a gift. Thanks whoever you are!
I still have some things to sort out before leaving in a few weeks though. The rear driveshaft splines seem to have a lot of play and I get vibrations at about 50mph. I’ll have that rebuilt by the local shop. The front driveshaft situation needs love to, at least some dressing up if not a complete and total fix. I had some popping noises on the Argentine Pass trail here in Colorado a couple weekends ago that I thought might be a bad birfield or a blown u-joint. Turns out it’s the transmission crossmember hitting the front shaft again (see post #194 above).
Notice the shiny metal on the corner of the DS flange? Yep, it’s still contacting the transmission mount. I bent it enough that it clears when the truck is on level ground with the wheels straight, but I guess with some flex or turning things move around just enough that it still interferes. I’m going to drop the front driveshaft, heat that mount up (hopefully without torching the rubber) and bend it some more. Maybe buzz off a little bit with an angle grinder too. This is much better than a broken birf or bad u-joint though.
For reference, here’s the amount of space on level ground with the wheels straight. Wrench for size:
Other stuff: I got a pair of third members out of a 62 with 4.11 gears a while back and my intent was to just pop them in. I chickened out. I forgot the flange bolt patterns were different on 62s, so I’d need to swap my flanges over. Then I started worrying about relieving pressure on the crush sleeve, how I’d never be able to get the right preload again, mesh pattern, etc. I got all up in my head about it. The 4.11 flanges also have about 1/4” or rotational freeplay. So I guess I’ll probably buy brand new flanges, seals, and bearings, and drop these off at a local shop to get set up the right way. Good time to move from crush sleeve to solid spacer, too. Yeah I could probably just mark the nut on the flange and retighten it to the same spot with the new flange, but … may as well “do it right”. Or I’m just to much of a chicken$hit and I should just go for it… At least I scraped all the crud off of them!
A very random thing happened too. My shop mate texted me and said “you left your tools outside and somebody leaned them up against the door.” I didn’t leave any tools outside, and from what I gather a stranger left these as a gift. Thanks whoever you are!
- Thread starter
- #248
The question stands: should I just swap the pinion flanges, get the 4.11s in, and hope for the best?
Full send on those 4.11 diffs! Had I just not left Denver I would've come by to lend a hand.
- Thread starter
- #250
That’s appreciated man. It was one of those days where I just started second guessing everything haha.
- Thread starter
- #251
Pulled the front driveshaft off again, two wear marks are very visible on the transmission mount “ear”. I think when a “high spot” in the driveshaft would come around to the mount and make contact it would actually stretch the rubber part of the mount - moving the transmission & t-case assembly in relation to the frame. Then when the high spot on the shaft rotated off the mount, the drivetrain would “pop” back into place. I think it was slight, but enough to make a loud noise every few revolutions.
I made some attempts to get in there with a cutoff wheel but it’s too tight. I don’t want to chop into the transmission crossmember or the transfer case shifter or the front output flange. I ended up heating the “ear” of the mount and bent it with some huge channel locks I have. I got it to move about 1cm out of the way. I’m hoping that’s going to be enough.
Before (it’s really tight):
After (sorry for the crummy photo, the light was not in my favor):
Good news that I noticed while I was under the truck: the front output of the t-case is still tight and leak free after my rebuild!
To alleviate my caster versus front u-joint angle fight, I’d like to ditch the double cardan front shaft. I picked up half of a beat up front driveshaft just for the u-joint yolks. I’m going to see if a good local driveshaft shop can take both of these plus some new tubing and make me one driveshaft of the right length with a single u-joint on either end. I’ll have them do a lengthened spline and clearance the yokes so they don’t bind. I guess it’ll turn out to be a mostly new driveshaft. I hope they can do it.
Later 60 front DS on left (half of it anyway) and early 60 Front DS on right.
But wait, there’s more!
I’m working towards the dual battery setup a little more actively now. Blue Sea ML-ACR came in. I think the specific part number/version is in this photo:
All the battery tray stuff is ambidextrous (so they wouldn’t need two different parts for each side on the 24V trucks) and all still available from Toyota, except for the diagonal support piece. The coolant overflow gets relocate with a Stainless Trays bracket. And then we come to the issue of the air intake hose, which is obviously in the way. I looked for a non-US 2F intake but those are expensive. For now I’m going to make it work with two pieces of 45 degree silicone tube, two aluminum connectors - internal sleeve type - and the cut off end of the stock intake hose. That end piece will be the same internal diameter as everything else and fit on the sleeve connectors. It also snaps into a hole on the left side inner fender, it’s real snug. So here’s a visual of the plan:
Red are the 45 degree bend silicone tubes, blue is where the internal sleeve connectors go, and the end of the stock hose is oriented how it will be on the finished product. This should just barely squeeze between the coolant overflow bottle and the smog equipment.
Anybody see any issues with doing the intake that way?
I made some attempts to get in there with a cutoff wheel but it’s too tight. I don’t want to chop into the transmission crossmember or the transfer case shifter or the front output flange. I ended up heating the “ear” of the mount and bent it with some huge channel locks I have. I got it to move about 1cm out of the way. I’m hoping that’s going to be enough.
Before (it’s really tight):
After (sorry for the crummy photo, the light was not in my favor):
Good news that I noticed while I was under the truck: the front output of the t-case is still tight and leak free after my rebuild!
To alleviate my caster versus front u-joint angle fight, I’d like to ditch the double cardan front shaft. I picked up half of a beat up front driveshaft just for the u-joint yolks. I’m going to see if a good local driveshaft shop can take both of these plus some new tubing and make me one driveshaft of the right length with a single u-joint on either end. I’ll have them do a lengthened spline and clearance the yokes so they don’t bind. I guess it’ll turn out to be a mostly new driveshaft. I hope they can do it.
Later 60 front DS on left (half of it anyway) and early 60 Front DS on right.
But wait, there’s more!
I’m working towards the dual battery setup a little more actively now. Blue Sea ML-ACR came in. I think the specific part number/version is in this photo:
All the battery tray stuff is ambidextrous (so they wouldn’t need two different parts for each side on the 24V trucks) and all still available from Toyota, except for the diagonal support piece. The coolant overflow gets relocate with a Stainless Trays bracket. And then we come to the issue of the air intake hose, which is obviously in the way. I looked for a non-US 2F intake but those are expensive. For now I’m going to make it work with two pieces of 45 degree silicone tube, two aluminum connectors - internal sleeve type - and the cut off end of the stock intake hose. That end piece will be the same internal diameter as everything else and fit on the sleeve connectors. It also snaps into a hole on the left side inner fender, it’s real snug. So here’s a visual of the plan:
Red are the 45 degree bend silicone tubes, blue is where the internal sleeve connectors go, and the end of the stock hose is oriented how it will be on the finished product. This should just barely squeeze between the coolant overflow bottle and the smog equipment.
Anybody see any issues with doing the intake that way?
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- Thread starter
- #252
Dual battery system prep work: The proposed intake system is in. Wasn’t much fabbing, just pop together some Lego pieces. Ordered two silicone 45 degree bend hoses, a couple of internal sleeve connectors, and cut the end off the stock intake hose. All of it came from Pegasus Racing and I didn’t end up using the second sleeve. Put that together and you get this:
Everything is based on the 70mm OD of the inlet on the air filter housing. 2.75” ID silicone hose, 2.75” OD sleeves, and the cut off end of the stock hose squeezes right inside the tubing.
Machined aluminum sleeve:
I had to cut the hose length down in several spots:
Why cut off the end of the stock intake hose? It has plastic barbs that snap into the cutout on the inner fender, same as it snaps into the stock location behind the left hand headlight. The inner fender hole is square and a little tighter fit so it’s actually even more secure than the stock hole.
I got a bracket from Stainless Trays that hangs the coolant overflow reservoir off the back of the battery hold down. Clearance is gonna be really tight, but it’ll work. I’m expecting it to rest on the silicone hose and that’s fine. I can’t move this intake setup back anymore due to the air injection components.
More photos:
All that’s left is to throw some clamps on the tubing where it sleeves together, and maybe where the end of the stock hose fits in - that’s a pretty tight fit though and the silicone seals pretty well.
Custom battery cables, Maxi fuse holders, and 300A fuses (for either end of the long positive cable between the batteries) are en route. I’ll plop a new battery in the tray, hook it all up, and the “front end” of the system will be done. Next is work on the back end: feeding the second battery to some auxiliary fuse panels I already have. I think I’m going to finally upgrade the cable size that feeds the cabin fuse panel while I’m at it - I’ve had that idea for a while and just haven’t gotten around to implementing it.
Everything is based on the 70mm OD of the inlet on the air filter housing. 2.75” ID silicone hose, 2.75” OD sleeves, and the cut off end of the stock hose squeezes right inside the tubing.
Machined aluminum sleeve:
I had to cut the hose length down in several spots:
Why cut off the end of the stock intake hose? It has plastic barbs that snap into the cutout on the inner fender, same as it snaps into the stock location behind the left hand headlight. The inner fender hole is square and a little tighter fit so it’s actually even more secure than the stock hole.
I got a bracket from Stainless Trays that hangs the coolant overflow reservoir off the back of the battery hold down. Clearance is gonna be really tight, but it’ll work. I’m expecting it to rest on the silicone hose and that’s fine. I can’t move this intake setup back anymore due to the air injection components.
More photos:
All that’s left is to throw some clamps on the tubing where it sleeves together, and maybe where the end of the stock hose fits in - that’s a pretty tight fit though and the silicone seals pretty well.
Custom battery cables, Maxi fuse holders, and 300A fuses (for either end of the long positive cable between the batteries) are en route. I’ll plop a new battery in the tray, hook it all up, and the “front end” of the system will be done. Next is work on the back end: feeding the second battery to some auxiliary fuse panels I already have. I think I’m going to finally upgrade the cable size that feeds the cabin fuse panel while I’m at it - I’ve had that idea for a while and just haven’t gotten around to implementing it.
I had the same issue with that mount. I would rub every few rotations. I ended up cutting off the “ear” of the mount using a dremel. Seemed to work well.
- Thread starter
- #256
Aaahhhh, ok so you’re the first one I’ve heard of with the same issue. My problem is that there’s no clean way to cut it off with an angle grinder while it’s installed. I need to figure out another tool or approach. Makes me feel good to have some backup on this finally though.
- Thread starter
- #257
Last night I swapped some front leaf spring shims. I had 6* in there with the fat end towards the back (a shackle reversal thing) in order to make the front u-joint angle less crappy, but that gave me a 0.2* positive caster angle. No wonder the tracking was squirrely on the highway.
Here's the geometry with 6* shims, front of the vehicle towards the left. The goofy thing in the bottom right corner is supposed to be the knuckle housing.
The 17.7* angle at the top isn't as terrible as it sounds - there's a double cardan joint up there. That leaves nothing to cancel out vibrations from the u-joint on the differential side, however - ideally the flange should be in line with the driveshaft with a zero degree angle. As you can see putting shims with the fat end back tips the diff flange upwards, which is why I tried out the 6* shims. That gave me a 6.8* angle, which is about as good as I was going to get it. But that made the caster angle 0.2*.
I was able to grab some nice WFO steel shims locally from @RDub - huge thanks to Ross for that! Reducing the degree from 6 to 2 changes both caster and front u-joint angles by 4*. My front u-joint angle is now 10.8* - whatever, I only use 4WD on the trail or in heavy snow storms. I'm willing to let the front driveshaft eat up u-joints for better caster angle, which improved to 4.2*. The truck tracks great now. A small win.
A couple of things to note:
1. Yes, the driveshaft angle is steep. My shackle reversal gets me about 5-5.5" of lift.
2. The entire engine, transmission, transfer case is apparently tipped backwards (lower in the back) by 2.1*. Is this normal? For what it’s worth the rear pinion flange is dead parallel with that - 2.1*, so that’s good.
3. I doubt there’s much axle wrap happening with a 2F (maybe in 4lo), otherwise it might be worth shimming the rear axle down about 1* to account for that. If there is axle wrap, it would be small - wild guess it’s maybe 1* - which would bring the flanges parallel under load.
Here's the geometry with 6* shims, front of the vehicle towards the left. The goofy thing in the bottom right corner is supposed to be the knuckle housing.
The 17.7* angle at the top isn't as terrible as it sounds - there's a double cardan joint up there. That leaves nothing to cancel out vibrations from the u-joint on the differential side, however - ideally the flange should be in line with the driveshaft with a zero degree angle. As you can see putting shims with the fat end back tips the diff flange upwards, which is why I tried out the 6* shims. That gave me a 6.8* angle, which is about as good as I was going to get it. But that made the caster angle 0.2*.
I was able to grab some nice WFO steel shims locally from @RDub - huge thanks to Ross for that! Reducing the degree from 6 to 2 changes both caster and front u-joint angles by 4*. My front u-joint angle is now 10.8* - whatever, I only use 4WD on the trail or in heavy snow storms. I'm willing to let the front driveshaft eat up u-joints for better caster angle, which improved to 4.2*. The truck tracks great now. A small win.
A couple of things to note:
1. Yes, the driveshaft angle is steep. My shackle reversal gets me about 5-5.5" of lift.
2. The entire engine, transmission, transfer case is apparently tipped backwards (lower in the back) by 2.1*. Is this normal? For what it’s worth the rear pinion flange is dead parallel with that - 2.1*, so that’s good.
3. I doubt there’s much axle wrap happening with a 2F (maybe in 4lo), otherwise it might be worth shimming the rear axle down about 1* to account for that. If there is axle wrap, it would be small - wild guess it’s maybe 1* - which would bring the flanges parallel under load.
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I've been looking more into dual battery setups as well. I have a non-US 2F intake with carb hat sitting on my shelf that I've been meaning to put on my truck but my fuse block and all of my wiring are currently where the filter assembly would sit on the inner fender and rewiring that is not something I'm motivated to do right now. Your solution of routing the intake into the driver side fender is interesting. Will be good to see your setup in person at SAS.
- Thread starter
- #259
That was my original plan - the non-US 2F air filter housing and top, with the matching carb hat. Stick a hose between them and you're good. I wasn't able to find any used at the time I was looking, and the one NOS one I found was like $850. No thanks. I also have a lot of electrical stuff on the right side inner wheel well, so I'm in the same boat - it would be a pain to find a new home for all that and rewire it. Figuring out locations for the dual battery equipment and wiring is enough of a chore.
- Thread starter
- #260
SAS prep continues. Last week the retractor in my driver’s seat belt went POP and forceable ejected all the webbing. It wouldn’t retract at all after that. No good.
Talked it over and asked questions with the folks at Seat Belt Planet for a few days and then went to order Monday. The website said 2-3 weeks lead time, yikes. I called them to explain that I was leaving on a trip and asked the guy on the phone if there was anyway I could get a belt in my hands sooner. He said “let me go out to the warehouse and talk with the production supervisor.” When he came back he said, “we’re going to stay tonight and knock these out, they’ll ship tomorrow.” In both my emails and the phone call they were super helpful and great to work with. 10/10. I ordered both front belts since the passenger side is probably on borrowed time.
Last night Karen and I got them installed with minimal drama. I broke the welds on one of the fixed nuts underneath the floor, but that was fine, I just had to get a wrench on it when reinstalling the bolt.
Finished product below. The Dark Brown #35 has a little reddish hue so it’s not a perfect match, but it’s really only visible in direct sunlight. Good enough. I’ll eventually pick up some SEM paint in Cordovan Brown to paint the black plastic hardware. To that end I was going to try to keep the original brown receivers, but no luck. The belt plugs in, but the fitment is very loose. Oh well.
The original covers fit over the B-pillar tensioner thing, so that’s cool. No interference with the belt or the bolt.
Notes:
The center console has to come out to disconnect the “fasten seat belt” wiring attached to the driver’s side receiver. On my 1982 it’s directly under the console and accessible through a hole in the carpet.
The original brackets need to be moved onto the SBP retractors. I was able to reuse the original bolts with some nuts from my hardware bin. Loctite was used.
After that’s done, this little plastic cover snaps back in place. Kind of tricky, but not terrible.
The angle brackets that come with the belts have a long and a short side. You have to get things just right to make the receivers fit next to the center console, passenger side especially. For that one I did long end horizontal on the floor, with the short end coming upwards on the right hand side. On the driver’s side I did short end on the floor with the long end coming up towards the right. Make sure to tighten the passenger side bracket to the floor before installing the center console, because after the console is on you can’t get to the bolt … yes, I made that mistake.
I think I’ll eventually put some brown electrical shrink wrap over the receiver “cable” thing. That’s essentially what Toyota did on the early 60 receivers. It’s literally a cable with heavy ring terminals and shrink wrap over everything, just like these.
Install took about two hours total, including fighting a bolt, goofing around with the center console, etc. Not the most exciting project, but at least neither of us will go flying through the windshield in a crash. A longer term project is installing SBP 3-point belts in the rear with 62 cargo panels and the plastic covers over the lower retractors. I do have threaded C-pillar holes, which will make it easier. Before all that I plan on modifying the rear seat for headrests - I’ll weld in the brackets from a later truck and use an extra pair of front headrests that I have stashed away.
One more thing down. Onward to a full tune up and replacing a u-joint this weekend. It’s doubtful but I might try to squeeze in the 4.11 third members swap before SAS too. Fingers crossed.
Talked it over and asked questions with the folks at Seat Belt Planet for a few days and then went to order Monday. The website said 2-3 weeks lead time, yikes. I called them to explain that I was leaving on a trip and asked the guy on the phone if there was anyway I could get a belt in my hands sooner. He said “let me go out to the warehouse and talk with the production supervisor.” When he came back he said, “we’re going to stay tonight and knock these out, they’ll ship tomorrow.” In both my emails and the phone call they were super helpful and great to work with. 10/10. I ordered both front belts since the passenger side is probably on borrowed time.
Last night Karen and I got them installed with minimal drama. I broke the welds on one of the fixed nuts underneath the floor, but that was fine, I just had to get a wrench on it when reinstalling the bolt.
Finished product below. The Dark Brown #35 has a little reddish hue so it’s not a perfect match, but it’s really only visible in direct sunlight. Good enough. I’ll eventually pick up some SEM paint in Cordovan Brown to paint the black plastic hardware. To that end I was going to try to keep the original brown receivers, but no luck. The belt plugs in, but the fitment is very loose. Oh well.
The original covers fit over the B-pillar tensioner thing, so that’s cool. No interference with the belt or the bolt.
Notes:
The center console has to come out to disconnect the “fasten seat belt” wiring attached to the driver’s side receiver. On my 1982 it’s directly under the console and accessible through a hole in the carpet.
The original brackets need to be moved onto the SBP retractors. I was able to reuse the original bolts with some nuts from my hardware bin. Loctite was used.
After that’s done, this little plastic cover snaps back in place. Kind of tricky, but not terrible.
The angle brackets that come with the belts have a long and a short side. You have to get things just right to make the receivers fit next to the center console, passenger side especially. For that one I did long end horizontal on the floor, with the short end coming upwards on the right hand side. On the driver’s side I did short end on the floor with the long end coming up towards the right. Make sure to tighten the passenger side bracket to the floor before installing the center console, because after the console is on you can’t get to the bolt … yes, I made that mistake.
I think I’ll eventually put some brown electrical shrink wrap over the receiver “cable” thing. That’s essentially what Toyota did on the early 60 receivers. It’s literally a cable with heavy ring terminals and shrink wrap over everything, just like these.
Install took about two hours total, including fighting a bolt, goofing around with the center console, etc. Not the most exciting project, but at least neither of us will go flying through the windshield in a crash. A longer term project is installing SBP 3-point belts in the rear with 62 cargo panels and the plastic covers over the lower retractors. I do have threaded C-pillar holes, which will make it easier. Before all that I plan on modifying the rear seat for headrests - I’ll weld in the brackets from a later truck and use an extra pair of front headrests that I have stashed away.
One more thing down. Onward to a full tune up and replacing a u-joint this weekend. It’s doubtful but I might try to squeeze in the 4.11 third members swap before SAS too. Fingers crossed.