I put one of those hoses on years ago but it might have been too late. I'm thinking like you, probably a bearing. I'll dive into mine this summer, once I get settled after moving.
Build Welcome home Matilda - faded like your favorite pair of jeans
- Thread starter CruiserTrash
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #202
It’s a surprisingly straightforward job, but there were a few nitpicky head scratchers for me. A couple thrust clearances, the orientation of the shift lever linkages, rear bearing preload, etc. My truck is an 82 and the spare transfer case I got is an 83, and there’s a few quirky things about the shaft coming out of the back of the transmission as well. The order of the parts that slide on is a bit different than the later cases. Just let me know when you get started and I’ll pass on the info that was given to me. Last thing: have a press will make life a lot easier. I used a 20 ton Harbor Freight press at least a dozen times during the process. You’re welcome to use mine when the time comes.
- Thread starter
- #203
Another note about the new Toyota oil pan. The same baffle I notched is bent on the top. The bend on the right side of the vehicle had to be lifted a bit so the dipstick could seat all the way. After I got the oil pan seated to the block I stuck a couple bolts in to hold it and rotated the internals of the motor with the flywheel. Nothing sounded like it was making contact, so I took it off and looked for any marks. All clear.
- Thread starter
- #204
Updates:
Sent my lifters to Delta Camshaft in Washington last week. They've got a good core cam they'll grind for me and also resurface my lifters. The guy wanted to verify exactly which cam I needed, so we got that squared away. Sounds like he has an NOS piece for me which is cool.
The machinist also called me and said he's got everything torn down and cleaned and will be magnafluxing and measuring the block this week. Progress!
Sent my lifters to Delta Camshaft in Washington last week. They've got a good core cam they'll grind for me and also resurface my lifters. The guy wanted to verify exactly which cam I needed, so we got that squared away. Sounds like he has an NOS piece for me which is cool.
The machinist also called me and said he's got everything torn down and cleaned and will be magnafluxing and measuring the block this week. Progress!
- Thread starter
- #205
Power steering gearbox reseal is underway while I wait for news from the machine shop. the steering box on my truck is bleeding all over the place. I got one of the last few seal kits in the world from what I can tell. Rock Auto has a Gates kit but it doesn’t include seals for everything.
Reseal progress here
Seal kit info here
I’ll also be getting new high pressure hoses from Georg at Valley Hybrids. May as well do it right.
Reseal progress here
Seal kit info here
I’ll also be getting new high pressure hoses from Georg at Valley Hybrids. May as well do it right.
Updates?
- Thread starter
- #207
Look who logged into Mud! No updates over the weekend - we had lots of family & kiddo stuff going on. I'm hoping the machine shop calls me this week, that way I know what size pistons to order. Steering box job is waiting on some fresh ball bearings to come in. I was missing one. The ones I ordered are sold in packs of 50 so maybe I'll replace all of them, not sure yet. I'll probably go to the shop tonight and work on cleaning up the engine ancillaries - side cover, oil cooler, front cover, etc, etc. I'd like all that to be ready before I get the block back from Gunn.
- Thread starter
- #208
Steering box rebuild done except for adjusting the top nut.
Fine grained detail can be found in the thread linked above. Now I need a time to install. That’s going to include 2-4 hours of cleaning ATF off the undercarriage - it’s everywhere. I need to pull the lower leaf spring plate and the spring pack center bolt and clean between the springs too. I’ve also got the u-bolt flip plates sitting on the shelf. I did the rears months ago, but have waited on the fronts until I could solve this massive ATF hemorrhaging issue. May as well do it all at once. And while I’m at it, maybe I should finally replace the 10-20 year old shocks on the front. I want to go with the Dobinsons IMS, but because of the shackle reversal I’ll probably have to get a pair that are “off-label”, designed for another application, to get the proper length and compression. At least I can do the rest of the work and leave the old shocks for a minute, new ones are an easy swap whenever.
What a mess. Worse in person.
In engine rebuild news, the machine shop said my block is crack-free, the cylinders need to go 40 over (+1.00mm) and the bearings 10 under (0.25mm). These +1.00 OEM beauties are now inbound to me. No I won’t discuss origin location or price
I also have Toyota rod bearings, Taiho main bearings (OE supplier), and TPR rings (OE supplier) headed my way. Still haven’t heard back from Delta on my cam & lifters after the initial call to discuss specs and give the go-ahead on the work. Just waiting for them to be done and ask for payment at this point. Once the parts are here I can hand them off to the machine shop and they’ll get started with the cutting work and balancing. Then it’s back to me for assembly and install. Still a long way to go but things are rolling now.
Fine grained detail can be found in the thread linked above. Now I need a time to install. That’s going to include 2-4 hours of cleaning ATF off the undercarriage - it’s everywhere. I need to pull the lower leaf spring plate and the spring pack center bolt and clean between the springs too. I’ve also got the u-bolt flip plates sitting on the shelf. I did the rears months ago, but have waited on the fronts until I could solve this massive ATF hemorrhaging issue. May as well do it all at once. And while I’m at it, maybe I should finally replace the 10-20 year old shocks on the front. I want to go with the Dobinsons IMS, but because of the shackle reversal I’ll probably have to get a pair that are “off-label”, designed for another application, to get the proper length and compression. At least I can do the rest of the work and leave the old shocks for a minute, new ones are an easy swap whenever.
What a mess. Worse in person.
In engine rebuild news, the machine shop said my block is crack-free, the cylinders need to go 40 over (+1.00mm) and the bearings 10 under (0.25mm). These +1.00 OEM beauties are now inbound to me. No I won’t discuss origin location or price
I also have Toyota rod bearings, Taiho main bearings (OE supplier), and TPR rings (OE supplier) headed my way. Still haven’t heard back from Delta on my cam & lifters after the initial call to discuss specs and give the go-ahead on the work. Just waiting for them to be done and ask for payment at this point. Once the parts are here I can hand them off to the machine shop and they’ll get started with the cutting work and balancing. Then it’s back to me for assembly and install. Still a long way to go but things are rolling now.
Steering box rebuild done except for adjusting the top nut.
View attachment 3614503
View attachment 3614504
Fine grained detail can be found in the thread linked above. Now I need a time to install. That’s going to include 2-4 hours of cleaning ATF off the undercarriage - it’s everywhere. I need to pull the lower leaf spring plate and the spring pack center bolt and clean between the springs too. I’ve also got the u-bolt flip plates sitting on the shelf. I did the rears months ago, but have waited on the fronts until I could solve this massive ATF hemorrhaging issue. May as well do it all at once. And while I’m at it, maybe I should finally replace the 10-20 year old shocks on the front. I want to go with the Dobinsons IMS, but because of the shackle reversal I’ll probably have to get a pair that are “off-label”, designed for another application, to get the proper length and compression. At least I can do the rest of the work and leave the old shocks for a minute, new ones are an easy swap whenever.
What a mess. Worse in person.
View attachment 3614507
In engine rebuild news, the machine shop said my block is crack-free, the cylinders need to go 40 over (+1.00mm) and the bearings 10 under (0.25mm). These +1.00 OEM beauties are now inbound to me. No I won’t discuss origin location or price
View attachment 3614510
I also have Toyota rod bearings, Taiho main bearings (OE supplier), and TPR rings (OE supplier) headed my way. Still haven’t heard back from Delta on my cam & lifters after the initial call to discuss specs and give the go-ahead on the work. Just waiting for them to be done and ask for payment at this point. Once the parts are here I can hand them off to the machine shop and they’ll get started with the cutting work and balancing. Then it’s back to me for assembly and install. Still a long way to go but things are rolling now.
Pistons are available here in US from Toyota. No need to go to the Middle East.
- Thread starter
- #210
I appreciate the clarification man, but they're already en route.
Talked to two dealers and both said the stock of +1.00 2F pistons (13105-61011) in the US is less than 6 with no ETA/low confidence on getting more. I think I recall one of them saying standard 94mm size were more plentiful, but the machine shop said I definitely need to go 040/1.00 over on the block I'm working with. The other things I was told were that rod bearings were plentiful, main bearings are disco'd, and rings for my 95mm pistons were at zero stock. I wish you were still in the "check with Onur on parts first" part of your life ... but I bet you're glad that's over haha.
- Thread starter
- #211
Parts are arriving almost daily at this point.
- Thread starter
- #212
Oh yes.
And for the part number dorks:
Gee, I hope they’re legit. No reason to suspect they’re not, but you never know. In other news the last piece of the puzzle is the cam and lifters. I called Delta Camshaft today since it’s been three weeks since I heard from them. Apparently the guy forgot which cam I needed (specifically where the oil hole should be), which is the conversation we had three weeks ago. I guess he forgot. I asked for an ETA and he said next week. An hour later I get a call from a lady who said my stuff is done and they need payment. I guess maybe the guy HAD done the work already but forgot. No matter, it’s on its way now!
And for the part number dorks:
Gee, I hope they’re legit. No reason to suspect they’re not, but you never know. In other news the last piece of the puzzle is the cam and lifters. I called Delta Camshaft today since it’s been three weeks since I heard from them. Apparently the guy forgot which cam I needed (specifically where the oil hole should be), which is the conversation we had three weeks ago. I guess he forgot. I asked for an ETA and he said next week. An hour later I get a call from a lady who said my stuff is done and they need payment. I guess maybe the guy HAD done the work already but forgot. No matter, it’s on its way now!
- Thread starter
- #213
Took all day yesterday but it’s done: rebuilt steering box is installed. Man, what a difference, there’s almost zero freeplay and the steering wheel seems to turn smoother.
After I pulled the hoses, drained the system, and removed the old box I spent probably 4 hours scrubbing. It was a disaster under there. I still haven’t finished cleaning the axle or the spring pack - I’d get to those when I install the u-bolt flip kit, maybe tonight or tomorrow.
That photo shows everything at the end of the cleaning process. I went through a bottle of degreaser, four scotch brite pads, two rolls of blue paper towels, and a can of brake cleaner.
FYI/Pro Tip: hang the box off one bolt and attached the splined steering shaft. Once the box is fully on, the steering shaft can’t compress enough to get on there. Unless you feel like removing the entire steering shaft through the inside of the cab … which is a lot more work. On this early 60 the top right bolt for the box won’t fully come out because the motor mount stud is in the way, so that’s a good one to hang it on.
Also, lots of parts for installation are still available from Toyota. The three bolts shown (out of four) that hold the box on are NLA. The split lock washer and nuts for those bolts are available, as are the big split lock washer and 32mm nut for the pitman arm.
Details matter:
New Saginaw pump conversion high pressure hose from @orangefj45 - note the slightly different (better?) routing.
Saginaw cap with the Toyoda top. Adapter from @BigRiggs.
So that completes the steering I think. Over the past two years: Saginaw pump, rebuilt box, new hoses, tie rod ends, knuckle job with new trunnion bearings, new damper, and of course fresh fluid. Maybe one day I’ll step up to beefier linkages, but not until I fold one them while wheeling. And maybe the u-joints or bushings in the steering column when they wear out. Not now though.
Can’t forget the BJ60 steering wheel too:
After I pulled the hoses, drained the system, and removed the old box I spent probably 4 hours scrubbing. It was a disaster under there. I still haven’t finished cleaning the axle or the spring pack - I’d get to those when I install the u-bolt flip kit, maybe tonight or tomorrow.
That photo shows everything at the end of the cleaning process. I went through a bottle of degreaser, four scotch brite pads, two rolls of blue paper towels, and a can of brake cleaner.
FYI/Pro Tip: hang the box off one bolt and attached the splined steering shaft. Once the box is fully on, the steering shaft can’t compress enough to get on there. Unless you feel like removing the entire steering shaft through the inside of the cab … which is a lot more work. On this early 60 the top right bolt for the box won’t fully come out because the motor mount stud is in the way, so that’s a good one to hang it on.
Also, lots of parts for installation are still available from Toyota. The three bolts shown (out of four) that hold the box on are NLA. The split lock washer and nuts for those bolts are available, as are the big split lock washer and 32mm nut for the pitman arm.
Details matter:
New Saginaw pump conversion high pressure hose from @orangefj45 - note the slightly different (better?) routing.
Saginaw cap with the Toyoda top. Adapter from @BigRiggs.
So that completes the steering I think. Over the past two years: Saginaw pump, rebuilt box, new hoses, tie rod ends, knuckle job with new trunnion bearings, new damper, and of course fresh fluid. Maybe one day I’ll step up to beefier linkages, but not until I fold one them while wheeling. And maybe the u-joints or bushings in the steering column when they wear out. Not now though.
Can’t forget the BJ60 steering wheel too:
- Thread starter
- #215
I should definitely mention my extremely patient partner who called me yesterday afternoon and said “I’m off work, do you need help bleeding the steering?”, then took a Lyft from home to the shop, waited 90 minutes for me to get things dialed in, and then helped turn the steering wheel back and forth. She’s truly a saint.
- Thread starter
- #216
1000%.
- Thread starter
- #217
Well, I double dipped on work this weekend. I did the rear 4Plus Products u-bolt flip plates a while back but waited on the fronts because of all the leaky ATF. With my final leak solved I went ahead and installed the fronts today. Pretty quick work, maybe 90 minutes including some more scrubbing of nasty grime. That’s now all of my suspension replaced except for the front shocks … hopefully those will be coming soon after I measure wheel travel.
FYI @lcwizard makes some seriously nice stuff. Y’all should go give him your money. And yes Dave, the longer cut u-bolt threads worked with my Dobinsons springs - there’s plenty of thread on there, check out the last photo.
I used some 6* shims as a test to get a better pinion angle, I think the old ones I took out were 2*. They were VERY corroded cast aluminum with chunks breaking off so it was hard to tell. Pro tip: please use steel shims. The last puzzle piece with my shackle reversal is that the pinion needs to point up for a good drive shaft angle, but that’s moving the opposite direction for good caster. Damn early 60s with their three-joint front driveshafts! The tracking is a little floaty on the highway - but manageable - so I’ll probably get some 4* shims and try those next. Eventually I may notch & reinforce the cross member to fit a two-joint driveshaft, which will allot me to just make the pinion flange parallel to the t-case output.
One small possible issue: the shims are so thick that the center pin of the leaf pack doesn’t go all the way through it. That means the pin doesn’t seat into the plate on the axle. The u-bolts are at about 85ft-lb of torque so I don’t think they’re going anywhere, but it would give me some piece of mind if the pins hit the holes in the axle plate. Do they make center pins with a tall head? I’ve never looked.
FYI @lcwizard makes some seriously nice stuff. Y’all should go give him your money. And yes Dave, the longer cut u-bolt threads worked with my Dobinsons springs - there’s plenty of thread on there, check out the last photo.
I used some 6* shims as a test to get a better pinion angle, I think the old ones I took out were 2*. They were VERY corroded cast aluminum with chunks breaking off so it was hard to tell. Pro tip: please use steel shims. The last puzzle piece with my shackle reversal is that the pinion needs to point up for a good drive shaft angle, but that’s moving the opposite direction for good caster. Damn early 60s with their three-joint front driveshafts! The tracking is a little floaty on the highway - but manageable - so I’ll probably get some 4* shims and try those next. Eventually I may notch & reinforce the cross member to fit a two-joint driveshaft, which will allot me to just make the pinion flange parallel to the t-case output.
One small possible issue: the shims are so thick that the center pin of the leaf pack doesn’t go all the way through it. That means the pin doesn’t seat into the plate on the axle. The u-bolts are at about 85ft-lb of torque so I don’t think they’re going anywhere, but it would give me some piece of mind if the pins hit the holes in the axle plate. Do they make center pins with a tall head? I’ve never looked.
cruiserinsanity
SILVER Star
I believe Vally Hybrids sells longer center pins for this application
- Thread starter
- #219
Ran into a buddy driving home from the shop tonight. Pulled over for a quick chat and grabbed a couple of photos.
Hans has a really cool Stout on (I think) a 4Runner frame with a 3RZ-FE motor. I had that same 2.7 in the Tacoma I drove for almost 15 years and it was bullet proof. Great patina build, and the Swampers & single KC Daylighter mounted searchlight style seal the deal.
Hans has a really cool Stout on (I think) a 4Runner frame with a 3RZ-FE motor. I had that same 2.7 in the Tacoma I drove for almost 15 years and it was bullet proof. Great patina build, and the Swampers & single KC Daylighter mounted searchlight style seal the deal.
- Thread starter
- #220
Oh yeah, I forgot … Delta Cam and resurfaced lifters arrived yesterday. Apparently I received the KC859 grind. I asked for a “mild RV grind” and wasn’t really walked through what my options might be. So this is what I’ve got. Additionally, the spec sheet I received is different than a KC859 spec sheet somebody posted on Mud years ago. At this point it is what it is. I wish the communication from Delta had been better … I won’t go into how they seemed to forgot about my order.
My spec sheet
Screenshot of a spec sheet posted to Mud way back, KC grind is the bottom one
Anybody else get a Delta Cam? What was the spec?
My spec sheet
Screenshot of a spec sheet posted to Mud way back, KC grind is the bottom one
Anybody else get a Delta Cam? What was the spec?