Weather... leaks, wiper motors/arms/blades? (1 Viewer)

[DomSmith]

Flame away as I complain (share my concerns) about driving the 45 in the hellish winter weather of San Diego... ok it’s not even winter...

Freshly back on the road I forgot how loud, hot (holes in the tranny hump don’t help) and noisy the 45 is. I’m embracing that it’s not like my other cars and deal with each of the unique features as a test of my resilience. But after an unexpected drizzle (seriously, it wasn’t even raining) on my 100 mile one way trip up the 405 to work I realized I’d like to address a couple of issues if possible:

1- The wiper motors won’t park. I’ve read up on this for a better part of a few hours and I have a plan to tackle this.

2- The wipers suck. These are the hook type with no clip. They are sloppy, they don’t have much pressure against the windshield and are essentially ineffective even in the minor drizzle. The springs in the arms seem strong and even a temporary bend in the arm wasn’t much help. I’m ok with the archaic design if they were effective. Is there anything I can do to help these out? I’ll see if the blades are available at Mr T Saturday but I think I need more pressure on the blades too. How are people with real seasons doing it?

3- Windshield seal is leaking. Stop gap measures or just pay to have it re-installed? The original glass is cracked and I like it that way. The glass was re-installed with the crack when I first got the truck nearly 10 years ago.

4- The f’ing vent seal is leaking (I am certain this will be unsolvable short of welding it shut) and it’s tearing again (I’m on #3 at least). Is everyone else replacing the rubber every 2-3 years? I’m thinking some type of indestructible fabric behind the rubber?

The leaks are a little concerning as there’s an ECU in the cab to protect now.

Any suggestions appreciated!

 

[cult45]

Re #2 - is this for the '65 SWB?

 

[DomSmith]

Re #2 - is this for the '65 SWB?

Yes sir

 

[Michael B]

Dom it’s not a fix but rainx will help.

 

[3_puppies]

I thought it only rained twice a year in San Diego

 

[DomSmith]

Even if I drive this twice a year I it could be raining 100% of the time!

 

[sandcruiser90]

1- The wiper motors won’t park. I’ve read up on this for a better part of a few hours and I have a plan to tackle this.

My 40 won’t park either. Share the fix.

For the vent seal be sure the orientation of the rubber is correct. ie. Right rubber on right window. Don’t ask me how I know and they’re a pain to replace.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

I've seen a couple of older windshields with the newer (i say that lightly) wiper motor with the shaft that goes between the 2 locations instead of the individual motors. i believe the shaft needs to be shortened.. I wanted the old school motors not in sync but if they suck (which you are confirming) then that is an option.
Rubber flap seal? I have a new SOR one on the shelf and reading everyone's review of how they do not last makes me want to use it as a template with something with a better durometer. Pretty sure that's the word i recall from casting rubber part research. A leather punch (i have one should i ever loose weight and need to shorten a belt) would work to make the holes and some EMT shears to cut the shape. Possibly something cushier that will conform when closed might be better?
Glovebox? do you have rubber seals between the hood hinge and the body? My Fj40 used to leak but sealant along the firewall and the threads of the hood hinges fixed that. My ecu is in the glovebox as well so no moisture in the glovebox will be allowed..
I don't have a ton of sympathy, you are driving it and realizing real world problems. Tackle one at a time.. I was planning on lizard skin under the transmission hump for heat reduction.. I remember driving my Fj40 thru Tennessee mountains once without a heater but used the transmission hump holes to keep me warm. (ahh youth and owning a 40 in my 20's). simple solution i did in my FJ40 was reflectix glued to a rubber mat.. cut the heat a ton.. easily removable to test the theory.

 

[Bear]

Dom,

I think the reality of driving an antique in a real-world situation shows up how far we've come in 50-plus years, and why people buy Icons which look "old" but perform more like what we regularly drive nowadays. Trying to keep everything "as original" is great for a static display or a fair-weather cruise, but tolerance of all the niggling idiosyncracies can become a real irritant when you're on the road on the way to some place.

Since the situation doesn't improve on its own, some mods/changes can be made depending on your willingness to drill a hole, bolt on an item, consider replacing a part with something more modern.

For the heat relief--various coatings, foils, mats, liners, window tints--some intrusive, others less in-your-face. Exhaust shields with stand-offs in critical areas. Your modern engine should allow an A/C compressor, and installation of well-hidden A/C products has been done for years by the hot-rod crowd. The A/C defrost option can also help clear foggy windows in the rain.

For the water leaks--trying different "rubber" compounds that are more UV resistant and keeping them pliable with protectants.
As has been said, rubber seals under the hood hinges, and a dab of silicone around each bolt hole. Using small amounts of products like 3M Strip-Calk can help with unevenness in weather stripping.

Your satisfaction with the cranky low-power wipers may lead you to revise the wiper arms and blades with versions with better squeegees and better braced blade supports. The original motors can be cleaned and lubed, and if worn, possibly replaced with less-worn ones., or replaced with generic marine-rated ones. Replacement with the later-style windshield frame might be acceptable with its low-mounted two-speed single motor and better blade system.

I would devise something in your glove box to pro-actively protect any electronics from moisture--lots of low-tech possibilities.

All these ideas and the thousands more require going beyond an "original" restoration and the realization of altering something for your own functionality and creature comfort. Driving it as-is, certainly gives you an appreciation of just how crappy life "in the jungle" must have been and still exists in the less-civilized parts of the world. I agree with most folks here that I don't want a Prius-style vehicle, driverless, seat-heated, computer-screened, numbed-out mode of transportation. Nor do I want to drive an original Model-T on the freeway, in the rain and snow, in a traffic jam with a deadline to get to work on-time.

Ultimately you have to decide on some compromises and accept some of the quirks of an old-ride, and basically just live with most of the less-than-perfect nature of the beast. But do remember all the foks driving past you admiring what you're driving and secretly jealous wishing they could take your place. That should bring a smile to your face--most of the time.

 

[cult45]

Yes sir

It would be a shame, historically speaking, but you could always throw on a windscreen frame from a 1973-74 model. The wiper system is far superior and with new arms and blades from someone like CCOT they actually work. Just gotta ensure you buy a wiper unit and pivot with lots of spline still on them. Intermittent function still pending when Unixman returns to that pet project.

New rubbers and seals everywhere, and I mean everywhere. The windscreen vent I can't help with as my 1970 is too new.

Some kind of spray on bedliner for underneath will help reduce noise and heat, as well as exhaust heat shields as Bear suggested. I dynamatted the inside of mine, but tbh I also used $5 yoga mats and they did a better job. Very soft underfoot as an added bonus, but you will need floor coverings.

Other than that, buy a stereo?

 

[c2dfj45]

You want to see leaks.......try driving a 50 year old truck in a FL rainstorm. I had the LV out at a really cool Car-B-Q at a customer's house yesterday(they all drove their vintage 356s on a horrible weather day with an incoming tropical mess.....so of course I had to drive my LV)....what a terrible choice of trucks to drive. I knew better but I kind of wanted to see how it did in the rain. My windshield gasket is a joke, water was pouring in from the corners and the center gap where the 2 pieces meet. I knew that was going to be an issue. Light rain wouldn't be a problem but a torrential down pour, like I drove thru, was not so good.

For the windshield vent, on my next replacement(number 3 I think), I am going to use silicone sheet....not rubber. Might think about using some of the ceramic coating on the rubber(I have a new rubber gasket if I don't cut a silicone one). Don't weld the vent! Best part of those old 45s.

Wiper motors in my experience are always easy to figure out. All of mine park. Maybe I just got lucky. They usually are just gummed up inside...I thought a few were trash but they came right back to life. Cool motors.

Get those holes in the firewall and the floor sealed up. I went out of my way to seal up the firewall and floor in the LV and it's very noticeable. ZERO heat in that truck. The AC actually cools it off really nicely. Of course it runs the Lizard Skin products and that stuff really helps. My pickup had Dynomat in it. Had a tough time with the look of it in there. Took it out, cleaned it up, painted the floors with POR15 and used UPOL Raptor on it. No where near the amount of heat or sound reduction on that vs. Lizard Skin in the LV. Not sure why we didn't Lizard Skin the pickup. What I need to do is build a nice heavy rubber mat for it. As someone stated...rubber mats make a world of difference. Great for floors but the tunnel still needs addressing(use Lizard Skin on BOTH sides).

Ceramic coating on the windows works great. Don't even worry about the wipers. Buy some good stuff, follow the instructions exactly and enjoy. Might be good to get a new windshield in there too....those old windshields are usually beat up. Fun to keep them original but sometimes they need to be upgraded to make them more useable and in the end fun.....in my opinion at least. I have all new glass in the LV and it's amazing how good it looks. Didn't need my wipers at all yesterday in the downpours either. RainX is old technology. The ceramic coatings are really work.

Glovebox in my pickup stays dry......but only after I sealed up the antenna hole that someone put in the cowl. Ha. Pinhole leak in the plug that let in a TON of water! Ha.

 

[wngrog]

Yep. Ceramic coat the windshield. It’s 100x better than rain X

One of my motors has a worn out male shaft that the wiper arm hangs on and it is mostly ineffective because of the slack.

I would love to replace it but I’m sure it will be hell to find.

I have a 1970 frame in red I looked at putting in mine. It would not be hard. The windshield hooks would need to be installed on the inside. Other than that it looks like a bolt in. Those wipers are way better.

Yes the old hook blades are still available. I got mine from @beno

I added a exhaust shield to Patina and it made my floor go from 250* to 100*

Huge difference.

As said. Every hole in the firewall gets plugged. Foam (from car wash sponge) or gorilla tape. Another huge help.

If you find wiper motor parts share the wealth.

 

[DomSmith]

Thanks for all the input guys. I really just need to drive this for awhile and appreciate what it is. Getting past my OCD about having everything perfect is the biggest challenge. I need to embrace it for what it is.

I'll start with Rainx as I have it on the shelf but will investigate the ceramic coating as well. Is that a permanent thing or applied like Rainx? I have a newish (72?) windshield and wiper motor but have no plans to upgrade. I'd just like to get the original stuff as good as I can get it. And no welding of the flap either... I love the fresh air when needed, especially with the heat in the cab. Right now if I open it I'm sure it will fall off and hang by the bracket. The wiper motors work fine except Park so I'll look at that and the new wiper blades although not holding out too much hope. I think a little sealer on the current windshield rubber will have to do for now. I'll see if that works. Maybe low pressure wash to look for leaks afterwards.

Erik- Yes the rubber flap seal is the culprit. I have a new Toyota NOS rubber piece that could be used as a template too but I won't be putting that on as I can't risk it getting ruined too. Thinking something with a reinforced component could help keep it from cracking? I'll work on the seals under the hinges and appreciate the tip on silicone. Hope the screws come out ok but I doubt it. I do have some 3M seam sealer if required as well for the cowl.

Michael- I appreciate your perspective and I need to get over the fact that this truck is what it is. Driveability is great with the 3FE and 4 speed and I'll be super pumped with 3.70's and eventually power steering. I've spent 24 years and a few pennies making my 40 as close to a newer car as I can with EFI, 5 speed, cruise control, heated seats, etc and its great so why do I need another?

As a few of you have suggested I think coating at least the underside of the tranny hump at a minimum and possibly a heat shield, and rubber floor mat (is Racer doing anything for the 45 crowd or would his other offerings fit)?

I do need to fix holes in the firewall.... I have a large rush of air near the steering column so that needs to be addressed.

Stereo is already installed so that helps but is mostly drowned out on the freeway.

Appreciate all the replies, I'll post up as I tackle a few items...

 

[wngrog]

I stuffed the foam around my steering column and painted it black. Disappeared.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Removal tool for the hinge bolts. Thexton THE482 Fastener Removal Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTJHO0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EI4cBb7RT5G2R

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

I took a hint from c2dfj45 and have on my list of to purchase the uber effective heat shield material to go between the Downpipe and the floor. I drive in birkenstocks and can't have my feet cook.

 

[DomSmith]

I have a similar tool but have yet to try it. I’ll post up when I grow the nads to start removing rusty bolts on the body.

Do you have a link to the heat shielding?

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Just another 79 build.....

 

[65swb45]

It would be a shame, historically speaking, but you could always throw on a windscreen frame from a 1973-74 model. The wiper system is far superior and with new arms and blades from someone like CCOT they actually work. Just gotta ensure you buy a wiper unit and pivot with lots of spline still on them. Intermittent function still pending when Unixman returns to that pet project.

New rubbers and seals everywhere, and I mean everywhere. The windscreen vent I can't help with as my 1970 is too new.

Some kind of spray on bedliner for underneath will help reduce noise and heat, as well as exhaust heat shields as Bear suggested. I dynamatted the inside of mine, but tbh I also used $5 yoga mats and they did a better job. Very soft underfoot as an added bonus, but you will need floor coverings.

Other than that, buy a stereo?

On the windshield frame, the lack of overhead hooks to secure the roof, and the inability to put them where the cable link is made this a non-starter for me.

 

[cult45]

On the windshield frame, the lack of overhead hooks to secure the roof, and the inability to put them where the cable link is made this a non-starter for me.

But the hooks are there on a 1968-1974 frame?