Water Pump ANSWERS (Sticky or FAQ?)

[Sam Stewart]

does the 60 pump have oil cooler port or no? been 8 years since i replaced one and don't remember, but my 2f 45 needs a water pump and i'm not going to run the cooler and i'm keeping the fan clutch

The 60 pump only shows the one on the right. 16110-61081-77 You'll have to block off or weld the extra port if you don't want to run a cooler.

MUD price is $78.21 from me. Free shipping.

Edit: It did take me a week to get the last one tho...

Edit #2: The warehouse has 3 in stock right now so it would only take one day.

 

[Degnol]

I do not believe '77 came stock with an oil cooler. At least mine doesn't have one. It does have a direct drive fan though. Sam, you need to edit your first post, because you said "pump on the left" twice.

So here's a question - can the later style pump be mounted to an earlier 2F block? And does the earlier 2F block have mounting provisions for the oil cooler?

Pighead is right, Everything will bolt right up. I have a 12/76 motor and run a clutch fan/oil cooler, yadda.

 

[LIVERUST]

couple of you mentioned swapping the flange. How did you pull off the flange? I couldn't find anyone with a press willing to pop off the flange fearing it would punch the shaft back into the pump damaging it. I gave up and just went with a Napa pump.

 

[Pighead]

How did you pull off the flange?
.

a two-jaw puller....

 

[1911]

Does any body have different thermostat housings to take a picture of ?(2 bolt 4 bolt oil cooler or not) I believe the California models with the oil cooler had two bolts and an outlet for the oil cooler others had four bolts.

My Federal (non-CA) model 12/79 has an oil cooler and a two-bolt thermostat housing.

Is the four-bolt thermostat housing a bolt-on replacement for the two-bolt? The four-bolt is a superior design that is easier to get leak-free. I would like to upgrade mine if it will work.

 

[65swb45]

My Federal (non-CA) model 12/79 has an oil cooler and a two-bolt thermostat housing.

Is the four-bolt thermostat housing a bolt-on replacement for the two-bolt? The four-bolt is a superior design that is easier to get leak-free. I would like to upgrade mine if it will work.

The housing will bolt on just fine. The difference for you would be the angle at which the neck in the upper housing goes out towards the radiator. You might have to switch back to the pre-79 upper radiator hose.

Best

Mark A.

 

[65swb45]

I believe california model 76-77 2f had an oil cooler or atleast it was an option. My 76 ca model has one.


Does any body have different thermostat housings to take a picture of ?(2 bolt 4 bolt oil cooler or not) I believe the California models with the oil cooler had two bolts and an outlet for the oil cooler others had four bolts.

They are all two bolts up thru 1980. Lower housings changed in the number of sensor holes [zero, one, and two]between 1975 and 1980. Upper housing changed the angle of the filler neck in '79.

If someone calls the shop to remind me, I could probably take a pic of ALL the Toyota water pumps lined up side by side, including the ones no longer available. That would be good info for a 'sticky' for sure.

Best

Mark A.

 

[1911]

The housing will bolt on just fine. The difference for you would be the angle at which the neck in the upper housing goes out towards the radiator. You might have to switch back to the pre-79 upper radiator hose.

Best

Mark A.

Thanks Mark! I'll have to get a four-bolt housing and change it out next time I have some coolant drained for any reason.

 

[PabloCruise]

I know that there is a lot of questions and controversy about the water pumps on the 40s. I just went through this with a customer (from MUD) that ordered one from me. I just went off of his production date and voila! WRONG. So here is my little PSA for you guys that need a water pump. This is information that I deduced from the parts catalog, experience, and trial and error. Basically, there are two pumps still available from Toyota. An early model pump, and a later model pump. The biggest difference being, direct drive fan or fan clutch. Obviously, the shaft on the direct drive pump is longer and the flange is different to bolt directly to the fan.

So if you have an early style with direct drive fan you need the pump on the LEFT which is part # 16100-61012, and if you have a fan clutch you need the one on the RIGHT which is a part # 16110-61081-77.

You may notice that the pump on the right has a port for an oil cooler. You can no longer get the one without oil cooler. Michael from ACC (he pretty much knows everything) told me that they normally weld the extra port. If you don't have access to welding equipment you will just have to cap it.

(If anyone wants to correct me on any of this, feel free. This is just the information I've obtained and wanted to share. Like anything else in life I can't guarantee it will work in every situation.)

This public service announcement is brought to you by the letter M, for MUD, Lowe Toyota, and ACC Toyota Truck and Land Cruiser. Thank you.

Thanks Sam! Good stuff

 

[Blue77FJ40]

I have no oil cooler on my '40. Desiring to move to direct drive, I bought an old style pump that unfortunately came with an oil cooler port that came with a rubber cap - that soon split. I would appreciate options for permanently sealing that oil port.

Thanks, Dan

 

[Weber Sarge]

Is the nipple in that port pressed in the hole , or threaded ? Looks as though the casting is thick enough to remove the oil cooler nipple and thread the hole for a brass pipe plug .
Sarge

 

[Blue77FJ40]

The one in mine is pressed in. I'll check out the plug option though. Thanks Weber

 

[Pighead]

I would appreciate options for permanently sealing that oil port.

I used that port to put an Autometer water temp sender in...just cut a couple inches of heater hose, slipped it over that nipple, put the sender in the other end (it's a long sender) and 2 hose clamps.

 

[SteveH]

Sadly, all the rubber radiator caps I find are cheap Chinese junk and rot in 6 months. I would not trust them to 'cap off' the oil cooler port. There must be some quality rubber caps out there, but you won't find them in the 'Help' packaging at your local Pep Boys.

 

[Steamer]

options for permanently sealing that oil port.

Short piece of heater hose, two clamps and a plug or bolt. Not pretty but it'll last and easy to do in place. With the pump off I'd braze it shut with something like the head of a carriage bolt.

 

[whato]

I know that there is a lot of questions and controversy about the water pumps on the 40s. I just went through this with a customer (from MUD) that ordered one from me. I just went off of his production date and voila! WRONG. So here is my little PSA for you guys that need a water pump. This is information that I deduced from the parts catalog, experience, and trial and error. Basically, there are two pumps still available from Toyota. An early model pump, and a later model pump. The biggest difference being, direct drive fan or fan clutch. Obviously, the shaft on the direct drive pump is longer and the flange is different to bolt directly to the fan.

So if you have an early style with direct drive fan you need the pump on the LEFT which is part # 16100-61012, and if you have a fan clutch you need the one on the RIGHT which is a part # 16110-61081-77.

You may notice that the pump on the right has a port for an oil cooler. You can no longer get the one without oil cooler. Michael from ACC (he pretty much knows everything) told me that they normally weld the extra port. If you don't have access to welding equipment you will just have to cap it.

(If anyone wants to correct me on any of this, feel free. This is just the information I've obtained and wanted to share. Like anything else in life I can't guarantee it will work in every situation.)

This public service announcement is brought to you by the letter M, for MUD, Lowe Toyota, and ACC Toyota Truck and Land Cruiser. Thank you.

 

[whato]

I know that there is a lot of questions and controversy about the water pumps on the 40s. I just went through this with a customer (from MUD) that ordered one from me. I just went off of his production date and voila! WRONG. So here is my little PSA for you guys that need a water pump. This is information that I deduced from the parts catalog, experience, and trial and error. Basically, there are two pumps still available from Toyota. An early model pump, and a later model pump. The biggest difference being, direct drive fan or fan clutch. Obviously, the shaft on the direct drive pump is longer and the flange is different to bolt directly to the fan.

So if you have an early style with direct drive fan you need the pump on the LEFT which is part # 16100-61012, and if you have a fan clutch you need the one on the RIGHT which is a part # 16110-61081-77.

You may notice that the pump on the right has a port for an oil cooler. You can no longer get the one without oil cooler. Michael from ACC (he pretty much knows everything) told me that they normally weld the extra port. If you don't have access to welding equipment you will just have to cap it.

(If anyone wants to correct me on any of this, feel free. This is just the information I've obtained and wanted to share. Like anything else in life I can't guarantee it will work in every situation.)

This public service announcement is brought to you by the letter M, for MUD, Lowe Toyota, and ACC Toyota Truck and Land Cruiser. Thank you.

 

[whato]

Toyota Landcruiser FJ40 FJ45 FJ55 FJ5...

 

[whato]

just saw this one online. looks like the one on the right of your pictures but with the port blocked off like the early ones. it dose not have the for threads attatched or the inch of shaft out the top like your pic on the right though. is this the wrong pump to buy. i think maybe this is a manual pump and i need a fan clutch pump