Watch me rebuild my entire fuel system

[bmorefj40]

So, after years of frustration with the fuel system in my 9/72 FJ40 beginning with the smelly poly tank, no charcoal canister, no fuel separator, poorly routed/capped fuel lines, and an ailing Weber carb; i'm finally going to tear it all out at once and start from scratch. Here's the plan:
1. Ditch the old poly tank in favor of a steel one (OEM or CCOT steel repro)
2. Replace all the old lines with new ones
3. Get a fuel separator and cover
4. Get a charcoal canister and bracket
5. Replace the fuel filter and fuel pump
6. Once all of that is done, replace the carb with either OEM or Trollhole carb

Now, here's where I need help. I already have a roll of appropriately sized tubing for the fuel lines, and fuel separator, charcoal canister, and cover/brackets are en-route to me. I just need to figure out the fuel tank.

Fuel Tank: I had an old steel OEM laying around. Just popped over to a radiator shop near me and this thing was in much worse shape than I had originally thought. Looks like it would cost me almost $250 to get this thing stripped, dipped, holes sealed up, and coated. That's pretty much the cost a CCOT reproduction steel one. I would rather get OEM, but the handful I can find online are almost 450-500 by the time it gets to me. I don't mind spending a little more to get OEM, but I don't know if I would double the cost. Has anyone had luck with the CCOT tanks or with recently getting an OEM one online? (I just sent Dan a PM and he confirmed that they are discontinued from Toyota)

Fuel Pump/Sender: both of mine work fine now, but while I'm in there and have everything torn apart, I'm going to replace it with OEM parts and be done with it. Especially since I don't know the age of what is there currently and I've owned the truck for 11 years already.

Carb: I have one or two OEM sitting in a box, not sure of the model/year, but if they turn out to be good ones, I'll send it out to be rebuilt. But that will most likely be a winter project. Right now my priority is getting the fuel system sorted from the tank to the carb. Then, I'll also do the correct hard line from the pump to the carb, since it would be different fittings and angles for my current weber.

Stayed tuned, as soon as I figure out the tank, I'll start tearing this thing apart and posting pictures along the way. Looking for some good advice as usual from others that have been down this path already.

Thanks,
Nick

 

[WB8LBZ]

I have a butchered fuel system too. My tank is good but I have no fuel lines as they all aged to the point of leaking (old rubber).

Larry,

 

[bertsulli]

subscribed.

I have a 9/72. I just replaced the fuel pump with OEM. You can use an OEM pump from later years, you'll just need to port over the connectors that are screwed into it.

These are the P/N's I used:

23100-61011PUMP ASSY, FUEL


90923-05019GASKET, FUEL PUMP

 

[fj401978]

I have a poly tank that I installed 15 years ago and have never had troubles with, but I do miss the 4 extra gallons of the OEM. I kept my steel tank and am having it clean/checked for possible leaks/holes. Like yours, I expect it to be close to $200, but I think it's worth it to have the original OEM than to buy the CCOT repro. Good luck on your project! I know the earlier models are even harder to find new parts for than mine...trying to get what I can, while I still can.

 

[bmorefj40]

Update: dan got back to me and said while the 9/72 is discontinued, the 73 is still available. I think that the 73 still fits and has all the fittings to mate up to the fuel separator. It's about $350 plus shipping which would be a no brainier for me. Oem all the way...

Can anyone confirm that the 73 should fit in the 9/72 body? I think it should but would be nice to get a confirmation before I place the order?

 

[bertsulli]

It depends. Since you have a 9/72, you're right on the border between the different styles.

If you have bucket seats, and the separator is attached to the side of the tub, then it'll likely fit as seen here on the 9/73 to 12/78 tab.
http://www.sor.com/cat168.sor

If you have bench seats, then I'm not sure. I believe the separator was built into the back of the bench seats and I'm not sure what effect that had on the tank.

I have buckets, but someone also did a 3/4 replacement on the back portion of my tub to the ambulance door style.

Here's a better pic of the OEM tank:
http://www.cruisercorps.com/fuel/gas-tank/gas-tank-oem.html

If you're just talking about the the recessed fitment into the floor, note that sor.com sells the same recessed panel for years 65-78 .

 

[bmorefj40]

I have buckets currently and it doesn't look like a hack job, so I don't think it ever had bench seats. I should be ok with the 73 tank. Although I should point out that I have ambulance doors with bolt holes for a split tailgate so some mods were done back there.

 

[sggoat]

Installed a CCOT tank ~ 5 years ago. Starting to see small black debris in the glass fuel filter that I installed-not a lot, just little bits & pieces-Easy enough the take the filter apart and clean it, or put a new filter element in. All this even though I had the tank cleaned and flushed before installation.
I scrubbed/cleaned/primed, and POR15'ed the outside bottom, then added their tie-coat primer, and painted w/several coats of Rustoleum. The exterior still looks great.
As for fuel pump/carb--stick w/OEM--the carb rebuild is easier than you think--

 

[bmorefj40]

Ordered the oem tank, filter, and pump from dan last night. As soon as those items get here I should be able to rock n roll. Is there anything that I might be missing? I got 5/16" rubber lines for the mains but I think the fuel separator and charcoal canister lines are smaller. Anyone know the spec of the top of their head? Also, I should be ok to reuse the existing clips and clamps, right?

 

[fj401978]

On my '78, the smaller ones are 1/4" fuel lines.

 

[bmorefj40]

Thanks fj401978, picked up some 1/4" tubing and new clamps. ready to get into this once my tank arrives.

Does anyone know of any other goodies that I should pick up before I tear into this? I'll need to try and wrap this up in one day. Once I start, I'll be stranded until I get it all back together and working, since I'll be doing this at my shop.

I checked the Toyota manuals and couldn't find a section that talked about tank, fuel separator, and charcoal canisters. So, either there is another manual that I need to get or mine is for an older model and doesn't cover it. I've just been using advice here and pictures on sor/ccot to get all the pieces I need.

 

[fj401978]

As long as your hard tubing is in good shape, all you should need is the fuel hoses, clamps, and the parts you have coming. Did you check to see if the new fuel pump comes with a gasket? What about the gasket between the fuel sending unit and the tank? Happy wrenching!

Skip

 

[bmorefj40]

Ordered the gasket for the pump, but I decided to reuse the gasket I have off the old oem tank since it looked to be in great shape.

 

[fj401978]

10-4, sounds like you have it under control! Good luck!

 

[bertsulli]

depending on what you have now, you may need some connectors for the fuel pump to adapt to hoses instead of hard lines. Same thing at the carb. They can be found here: http://www.sor.com/cat028.sor

also, a new fuel filler hose is a good idea, as the old ones tend to crack and release fumes. New gas cap wouldn't hurt either.

 

[bmorefj40]

Dug these out just to check them out. Does anybody know how to properly identify these?
I think the 21100-61142 is out of a 80-87 and the 21100-61024 is from a 9/77-12/78 federal, but that's my best guess from SOR website pictures.

Would either of these be a good candidate for a rebuild or should I save the headache and just get a trollhole carb? Basically if they're nothing special, then I don't think I would try to rebuild it. Even though my truck is a 9/72, I'm pretty sure the block is a 2f out of a '75.

 

[fj401978]

Yes, the 21100-61142 is from an 80-87: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/xref?v=U_1977_TOYOTA_LAND+CRUISER_FJ55LG-KA.14_1708.13&s=2110061142

The 21100-61024 is from '69-'80: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/xref?v...ISER_FJ55LG-KA.14_1708.13&s=21100-61024&mU=on

The 21100-61024 is a great carb, can't say about the later model.

Skip

 

[edwjmcgrath]

"Carb: I have one or two OEM sitting in a box, not sure of the model/year, but if they turn out to be good ones, I'll send it out to be rebuilt."

I thought the title of this thread was "watch me rebuild..."
You can do it. Check out Pinhead's videos.

 

[bmorefj40]

Watching them right now!

 

[PixelWrangler]

also, a new fuel filler hose is a good idea, as the old ones tend to crack and release fumes. New gas cap wouldn't hurt either.

Check out your old filler hose carefully and if it looks to be in decent shape hang on to it. As far as I was able to determine OEM is discontinued. I picked one up from CCOT when I replaced my filler neck, because I wanted a shiny new one in there. Well the CCOT hose cracked in several places in less than two years filling my cab with fumes. I dug out my old original one which I had tossed into my junk pile. Looked it over and other than some overspray, it was in perfect condition. Tossed it back on and it has been preforming perfectly for the past two years. The crap CCOT uses to make theirs is far inferior to the rubber in OEM. Like many of their aftermarket parts, they just don't compare.