Wandering now I'm on the road

[Boaf 32]

LCer's

I Now have my LC on the road and so far liking the beast. What a great 4WD system! I have a question on Alignment and wandering.

The previous owner installed a PS gearbox inside the engine compartment (I replaced the leaking one with a new Nissan). To do so, the PO relocated the driver side shock tower back by roughly 2 inches (The space of the bolts). Measured the distance from the axles to the front of the engine bay, both sides are equal distance and square.

Issue:
I know it can be a bunch of things, but the car wanders when driving, float's if you will. So far what I have eliminated:

• Tie-rod ends have no play
• No shake on the tires when jacked up (checking ball joints).
  
• Lug Nut's tight

I know it needs an alignment, but really wondering about the relocation of the tower. I've attached so you can see for yourself. Appreciate your thoughts about it.

Thanks,

Boaf

 

[Downey]

Longer front spring shackles place the front differential more nose low (lean the king pin angle froward), this makes the front end wander all over the road. When you lean the king pin angle rearward the vehicle tracks better (i.e. shorter front spring shackle).

 

[John Smith]

You either need to remove the extended shackles and return to stock length, or install caster shims. Your caster is bad, which causes the "wander".

 

[pjohnson]

Jim's referring to Caster. You can check caster angle by placing an angle finder on the top of the knuckle. It has to be a flat surface.

Also look at your toe in. In fact, check and adjust toe in first.

I'm sure someone will chime in with specs.

 

[Boaf 32]

It sounds like, in my opinion, check the alignment before any big changes. I agree, alignment can just be the biggest lead to over modifying things that don't need to be done. Still open for ideas! I thank both of you.

 

[Splangy]

Is there a nut on that pitman arm?!

I wouldn’t worry about the shock tower being the cause of your current problem, but with welds like that, I would worry about a whole other set of problems.

 

[oregon fj]

Definitely check the alignment first. Mine wandered badly, and I discovered that it had 3/4" toe out. bringing the toe to factory spec pretty much cured it. Not saying there's no possibility of other causes in your case, but start with the simple things first.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Could be caster... but, I would still suspect the 'toe-in' is not set properly - improper toe-in made mine wander.

Toe-in is set by adjusting the length of your tie-rod, I would check that, as well as the length of your relay rod.

The newer OEM tie rods are threaded a bit deeper to allow a more optimum toe-in.

You can easily adjust toe-in - @Pin_Head explains it clearly in post# 12 of THIS THREAD.

Follow Pin_head's instructions and set toe-inproperly, then see how it drives and check/set the caster, if it still wanders.

 

[Boaf 32]

@Pin_Head is dialed in. He has a great deal of experience. I agree the alignment is first and will do so shortly. Attached is a front view of the steering... Oh, by the way you bet your sweet bottom I have a Nut on the bottom of the Pitman Arm, thanks Spangly. I also followed your threads and respect what you say! Thanks!

Boaf

 

[Boaf 32]

@Pin_Head is dialed in. He has a great deal of experience. I agree the alignment is first and will do so shortly. Attached is a front view of the steering... Oh, by the way you bet your sweet bottom I have a Nut on the bottom of the Pitman Arm, thanks Spangly. I also followed your threads and respect what you say! Thanks!

Boaf

View attachment 1666256

Update:

As you see in this picture, the pitman is tied to the steering. Even though the nut is seated and the cotter pin is in, there was still play. Checked for movement and there it was, up and down. Tightened up the nut (used a vice grip to hold the thread while tightening the nut). Test drive and it is 100% better. The hole for the cotter pin is somewhat below the slot in the king nut, barely enough to engage the slot. Time for a bigger cotter pin though.

Thanks all.

Boaf

 

[Boaf 32]

All,

Went for an alignment and according to the tire place I've been going to for 20+ years, there is no alignment adjustment for Caster. I am attaching my results. They did suggest that I can buy wedges to adjust the negative caster and the camber.

Has anyone run into this and what would you do to address this? I still have to replace the rear shocks but not sure that is the issue.

It does still wander and I can't go over 40 without wearing a diaper..

Thanks,

Boaf

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Steel wedges on the front axle, it is common for a lot of us to run them. Search.

I think Georg at @orangefj45 is where I got mine.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Longer front spring shackles place the front differential more nose low (lean the king pin angle froward), this makes the front end wander all over the road. When you lean the king pin angle rearward the vehicle tracks better (i.e. shorter front spring shackle).

^^^^^That.

 

[Boaf 32]

You either need to remove the extended shackles and return to stock length, or install caster shims. Your caster is bad, which causes the "wander".

Thanks John. Looks like you are correct! I confirmed bad Caster (-1.8 Degrees) Any idea where I can get Caster shims? SOR, Cruiser Corp?

Thanks.

Boaf

 

[B y r o n]

You also don't mention what size tires you are running. It is common for wider tires to grab the ruts and ridges in the road and pull the vehicle off line.

You also didn't mention what gears are in the power steering box. Faster gears or less turns of the wheel lock to lock react quicker than slow gears. Not familiar with Nissan gear box so I have to clue what is it it.

The combination of the two can either make things worst or cancel each other out.

 

[Boaf 32]

You also don't mention what size tires you are running. It is common for wider tires to grab the ruts and ridges in the road and pull the vehicle off line.

You also didn't mention what gears are in the power steering box. Faster gears or less turns of the wheel lock to lock react quicker than slow gears. Not familiar with Nissan gear box so I have to clue what is it it.

The combination of the two can either make things worst or cancel each other out.

All good points. Tire size is old (2004) measured in 31x10 And need to be replaced. The steering gears require lots of steering input. Meaning it's not tight at all. I would have to research the gear ratio, been some time.

Boaf

 

[Boaf 32]

Steel wedges on the front axle, it is common for a lot of us to run them. Search.

I think Georg at @orangefj45 is where I got mine.

I have never done this so its new territory for me. Are these steel shims on the axle under the leaf's or are they some type of concentric cam located in the shackle bushings?

I will search the forum on how to identify and select the correct shims. Thanks

 

[pjohnson]

You can count number of steering wheel turns from lock to lock.

As mentioned early in the thread, if your toe in is not set properly...

Also, you could change your shackles to change the caster. Also mentioned early in the thread

 

[John Smith]

Thanks John. Looks like you are correct! I confirmed bad Caster (-1.8 Degrees) Any idea where I can get Caster shims? SOR, Cruiser Corp?

Thanks.

Boaf

I like Roger's shims. 4Crawler Offroad Products - Custom Leaf Spring Shims Tons of places sell shims, but Roger will make you whatever you want custom if needed. Whatever you do, don't buy aluminum shims.

 

[pb4ugo]

1st install caster shims then see how it drives. I'm sure it will be a noticeable difference. The caster shims go in between the axle perch and the spring with the fat end of the shim towards the frt. You will also need new spring center pins and maybe new U bolts if they're all rusted up. You'll have to have jack stands to support the vehicle from the frame and let the suspension droop to make the repairs. My guess would be to get some 4 or 5 degree steel shims approx 2 to 2.5 inches wide. As said before do not buy aluminum 1's. Once the shims are installed make sure there is no binding on the frt drive shaft U joint at the pinion when the axle is at full droop. You may have to clearance the U bolt yokes slightly.