Vortec time for the SAR guy :-)

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If your motor has a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail you won't need the corvette regulator. just plumb the return to the original return for the 2F. I'd run a new pressure line though.

Also, you might want to think about trying to do an in tank pump of some sort and also sticking with the mechanical fan setup. I did a few variations of each and settled on an in tank pump and a mechanical fan.

I am not too far away either if you have any questions or want to take a look at something. My motor has been in my truck for a while now so i've been through a lot of bug working outs with it. Looks like you are well on your way though.

c ya!

Yep, this engine has the pressure regulator. I'm hoping I won't need the corvette assembly but I seem to remember reading that some fuel pumps will overpower the stock fuel rail regulators and the solution was to either swap to a different pump or add in the corvette assembly. I'm hoping this pump doesn't do that and the stock on-rail regulator will be sufficient.

What pump did you end up using that fit in the gas tank?

I'm going to run with the electric fans... for now at least. I do have the mech fan assembly still if I find I need to switch back.

I mostly wanted the electric fans for the sake of being able to have an on/off switch when needed and also for the sake of warm up on some of the bitter cold start-ups I deal with up in the mountains (also a big reason for the block heater).

If I do end up back on a mech fan, I'll have to do some sort of fiberglass fan shroud.
 
I spy a JDM integra conversion :steer:

:o Nice progress so far.
 
Here's progress from this week :cool:

Drilled and tapped the GM oil block-off "plate" for the Toyota oil pressure sensor. I found an adapter for the BSP threads of the OE pressure sensor to a AN thread (which is essentially just a specific set of SAE threads). Got that adapter through Pegasus Auto Racing.
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Now, with this adapter, the whole thing is pretty tall. It will fit perfectly on the side of the block with no clearance issues UNLESS you're using the block heater I have set up... Then I discovered that I had to flip the whole assembly upside-down in order to get it to fit :doh:

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I don't really know if that pressure sensor will work properly upside down like that but I'll find out!
It is still shorter than the oil pan and the frame rail so at least it's not going to be dragging on anything.

Bought a new clutch slave cylinder. Utilized the adjustable slave cylinder pin that was on the previous cylinder since the one that came with the new one was a fixed-length. I did take a die and thread the old pin an extra 3/4" down the shaft just to give myself some extra adaptability.
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Had to trim the dust cover supplied by AA and the OE Toyota clutch cover to get them to fit the way I needed them to with this engine. This picture should give you an idea of how much I had to trim from the AA plate. The trimming to the Toyota cover is fairly drastic too but since it's cut-to-fit, you just have to take it off a little at a time until it's right.
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Reinstalled the power steering box and the Toyota PS pressure line and cooler loop.
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I vowed to myself when I started this that I would try to avoid as many "redneck" solutions as I could. Well, for the EGR, nothing really seemed to make as much sense as a 90 degree pipe fitting but I think it turned out well with a little welding and flame-proof header paint.
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Fuel pump mounted and the feed and return lines run. Just used some basic high-pressure fuel line and some clamp fittings on it for now. I'm not totally happy with how that turned out so I will probably be going back with some Aeroquip socketless hose and fittings at some point but for now, this will work well enough to get her running prior to my rapidly approaching deadline!
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- "Adjusted" the throttle pedal mount in the cab so it mounts in straight and got the throttle cable routed.

- Bought O2 sensors and welded in the O2 bungs for the two upstream O2 sensors to the collector tubes for each header.

- Reattached inner and outer fenders on both sides as well as the core support and mounted the radiator.

- Wired the relays for the fuel pump and electric fan and realized I probably need a second 30A relay for the 2nd fan. Anyone know what the ampere draw from each fan on the Contour setup is?

- Put new oil in the engine (Mobil 1 Extended Performance), replaced the oil filter (K&N), replaced the spark plugs (about died when I realized OE is iridium!), and ordered MSD plug wires (should be in today).

- Started fabricating battery cables out of some size-2 double-insulated welding cable. The fuse block feed on the GM battery cables was this tiny 6 gauge cable so I'm bumping that up to some size-4 welding cable. Terminals are being soldered and I'm using adhesive-lined heat shrink on every connection so I hopefully don't need to make new cables for a long while! The ground side of the cables is done. I ended up running a short cable from the battery to the fender mount for the battery tray and then a second cable from that bolt to one of the bolts that mounts the EGR to the passenger side cylinder head. Tested it by hooking up the fusible link for the factory chassis harness and everything inside turned on like it was supposed to so it looks like that's a good ground :bounce:
The positive terminal is a 2/0 fitting with a 2AWG lead for the starter and a 4AWG for the fuse block lead and I lined the heat shrink with some high-temp silicon in place of the adhesive-lined heat shrink I would have had to custom order for this size fitting.
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I am sincerely hoping for a test-fire this weekend because my to-do list is still pretty long and I'm down to 15 days and counting on my deadline!
 
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I spy a JDM integra conversion :steer:

:o Nice progress so far.

Yep :)

I used to run that car in Auto-X. Still a blast to drive but all of the Auto-X races moved 75-150 miles away so its hard to get to anymore :frown:
 
On the to-do list for today:

- Finish battery cables. I'm thinking of running a size-4 cable directly from the alternator to the + battery terminal too to augment the charge coming through the OE harness since this alternator is much more potent than the stock 2f alternator and I have some higher-draw electronics running now with the fans and fuel pump.

- I'm going to try to pick up a couple Blue-sea bus blocks from my local RV store so I can clean up all of the connections that need 12v power now.

- Re-wire the radiator fans since I realized I need to run a second relay for the second fan :doh:
 
something like 40amps is the pull from a Contour fan. I can't confirm this just what I was told by others who have used the same set up!

Clint
 
Yep :)

I used to run that car in Auto-X. Still a blast to drive but all of the Auto-X races moved 75-150 miles away so its hard to get to anymore :frown:

I hear ya, I just sold my autocross rig this summer ('92 civic B20). I haven't had time to race in years :(

/threadjack
 
i think the current draw is something around 30-40 amp, but they draw closer to 70 when they turn on. Because of that I went with some 70 amp relays from Texas Industrial specifically part number 70ARKB. Thats a relay kit that comes with the relay and housing. I used two of those, one for each fan.
 
That thing sounds SWEET!

5 weeks from pulling the old to firing up the new! That has to be a record!

:clap:
 
That has to be the greatest feeling ever !. Good work, I can't believe how fast you did the swap. I started collecting parts for about 2 months and only had the clutch mounted !

Can't wait for more updates.
Cheers !
Daniel
 
Hmmm. Been almost six weeks since we had an update.

How's it going, man?
 
Sorry!

Wow, I have seriously neglected this thread. Serious apologies are in order for those of you who have been watching this!! Without boring you all with the details, I've had a family illness I've been attending to along with a new job so some stuff has definitely fallen behind...

The beast has been on the road about a month now and I think I finally have the bugs worked out; save for my speedo cable that decided to snap between the pulse generator and the back of my gauge. :doh: On the plus side, the end between the output shaft and the pulse generator is still intact so my gas mileage hasn't suffered (provided the odometer on my GPS is still accurate).

I've been getting 15-16 mpg but I've also been driving it pretty hard because I just can't get enough of the fact that this truck has an acceleration curve now :bounce: It's mostly been city driving too but I have run to Denver and back a couple times. 80mph on the highway is just another day now, and it'll maintain speed uphill without question or downshifting with 4 people and stuff in it :D

I've only been able to get it out wheeling once and it was still throwing multiple engine codes at that point so I wasn't able to push it too hard but it did hills without much question in 4hi that used to be mandatory 4lo with the 2f.

All in all I couldn't be happier with the final outcome :D:D:D

More pictures to come once I find my camera's transfer cable, lol.

I also have a pile of receipts to sort through and update the parts list with.

Thanks for hanging in there!!
 
Pics! Put up more pics! (I've got major Vortec envy!)

:)
 
Any updates? Parts list? Comments on best/worst part of swap? Hard or tricky stuff that stumped you? Engine codes and solutions?

Talk on gearing, cruising rpm's, future upgrades and/or refinements....

Great build by the way!!!

cheers
 
lemme know if you need help on engine codes. I can try to help.

Glad you've gotten it running and are having fun with it!
 

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