Vortec time for the SAR guy :-) (1 Viewer)

[SARCruiser]

On my last camping trip, I made the wonderful discovery that the headgasket in my 2F is starting to go. While I could just dive in and replace the gasket, this engine is getting tired and could probably benefit from a full rebuild and with how I use this truck, that just doesn't make a lot of sense to me right now. For a while I've been working towards a V8 swap and it has finally come time to dive in and git 'er done!

Anyway, on to the good stuff.

The subject of this transplant:

'87 FJ60, 321,XXX miles on the clock, hot dip galvanized frame and some light resto/mod work.

Picked up the heart of the beast today from Loveland Auto Salvage

Complete pullout from a 2000 GMC Sierra 1500. 5.3L Vortec, 64,000 miles, compression tested 155-160 on all cylinders.

When I say complete, I mean it. These guys were amazing and super nice. They included all accessories and brackets, complete wiring harness, starter, PCM, MAF, even has the transmission control servo still attached to the harness and they tossed in the stock air cleaner box as well. Chatted them up a bit about what it was going into and they waived the normal exchange fee they charge on an engine

I had only just started calling around looking for engines when I stumbled on this one (they had just pulled it the day I called so nothing was missing yet which is how I got it all together). Everywhere else local I was finding who had this engine was selling it as a long block only with no accessories or harness for almost what I got this whole setup for.

My plan is to hook this up through the Downey adapter to my 4-speed for now since having a running truck is my priority and a H55 would blow my budget for this project right now.

Unfortunately, that's all I have for tonight. I have a lot of parts on order so I'll keep updating this as I go

 

[phishincruisin]

woohoo! Glad to see such a nice heart going into a blue 60! You're going to love it. Its nice that you already have the cable throttle body too, that will make things much easier.

 

[Heckraiser]

Have you pulled the 2f yet? I'd be curious to see a weight comparison between the two. '02 Vortec = aluminum heads, correct?

 

[5280Hawk]

Do you mind posting the Price of that bad boy?

Also do you have any plans for that Weber?

 

[SARCruiser]

Shopping list

Have you pulled the 2f yet? I'd be curious to see a weight comparison between the two. '02 Vortec = aluminum heads, correct?

No, I haven't pulled the 2f yet; I need to keep my truck functional for as long as possible up until I'm ready to yank it and start swapping everything.

I've heard that there is about a 200 lb difference between the 2f and the 5.3 vortec. Yes, the '02 has aluminum heads.

This section of Wikipedia was very helpful to me in figuring all of that out.

Do you mind posting the Price of that bad boy?

No, I don't mind. In fact, I'll try to keep a running tally on things as I go.

So far bought and ordered:

Loveland Auto Salvage:
Complete engine pull-out: $1200+tax

Advance Adapters:
Clutch disk: $145
Bellhousing adapter: $383.30
Engine mount kit: $128.93
Pressure Plate: $145.00

Jegs:
MSD Electric Fuel Pump: $101.99
Jegs in-line fuel filter: $29.99
Magnaflow Universal Catalytic Converter: $63.99 x2 = $127.98
Jegs weld-in O2 fittings(set of 2): $11.69 x2 = $23.38 (total of 4 fittings)
Flowmaster 50 Series Muffler: $99.99
Magnaflow Y-pipe: $26.99
Auto Meter Z-series tach: $92.99 (currently has a $20 mail-in rebate)
Auto Meter Disributorless Ignition System Adapter: $75.99
Lokar Throttle Cable: $49.99
Hedman Block Hugger Headers: $269.99
Thermo-Tec heat shield: $49.99
Jegs Universal flex couplers x2: $75.98
Gates Vulco Flex II radiator hose: $16.99
Flywheel: $84.99
Fuel Pump Relay (waterproof): $46.99
Electric fan relay (waterproof): $47.99
ARP Flywheel bolts: $18.99
ARP pressure plate bolts: $14.99


As I buy more stuff, I'll come back through and update this list.

I'm already super excited, too bad overnight shipping is so bloody expensive or I wouldn't have settled for ground

 

[Rigger]

I subscribed. Go heavy on the pics, please!

 

[SARCruiser]

The order list has grown
Added today: headers, flex pipes, heat shield and a flexible radiator hose (I already have one flexible hose currently on my truck so I'm hoping to just utilize that for the other).

Received confirmation from Advance Adapters that my order is processed and pending shipment and my first shipment from Jegs should be in tomorrow

Things will be coming in a little out of order for how I'd like to do the work, but that is OK.

Hit a snag already with the VSS. I was going to order part# 250-4170 from Brandon Distributing but they called me last night to tell me that part has been discontinued. I'm looking at some of the stuff from Dakota Digital right now to figure out what they carry that I could adapt to work. I really don't like the idea of the magnets on the driveshaft so I'm seeing what I can make work in-line with the factory speed cable.

Sorry no more pics right now but once I start getting stuff in tomorrow I'll go crazy with my camera, I promise!

 

[SARCruiser]

Also do you have any plans for that Weber?

Everything off my 2f will be up for grabs once it's pulled.

I'd like to sell it whole or in pieces to other cruiser folk rather than to a scrapyard.

If you have something you need or are interested in, shoot me a PM. I'll set up a thread in the FS section once it's pulled but now's your chance to speak for something early.

 

[Granite Grinder]

Love to see threads with detail, can't wait to see the process

 

[phishincruisin]

I was able to somewhat copy mwdubs VSS idea and get it to work pretty well. It isn't perfect yet, but it has a good enough signal for the pcm with a manual transmission since it just needs to know the truck is moving. I can get another flange cut and could probably machine the gear for you as well if you needed it... shoot me a pm if you're interested.
FYI, AA has completely reworked the Downey splitcase VSS and I think its going to be junk... so don't hold your breath for that either.

 

[Tinker]

Are you in the smog-test area? If so, according to federal & CO law, if the donor had an auto tranny the recipient has to have the same kind. Also, all the smog stuff has to be there in the same configuration as the donor (but can be aftermarket like cats & headers). When it's done you have to get it inspected & tested at a state station that will certify what standards it is to be tested against in the future.

Having said that, again if FtC is a smog area, the roadside driving test vans could save you a big hassle if you pass them enough times within a certain period before your plates renew. The state guy explained all this to me a couple years ago but it's pretty complicated so I forget exactly how it works. How you know is your renewal card says "no emission test required".

 

[Heckraiser]

Are you in the smog-test area? If so, according to federal & CO law, if the donor had an auto tranny the recipient has to have the same kind. Also, all the smog stuff has to be there in the same configuration as the donor (but can be aftermarket like cats & headers). When it's done you have to get it inspected & tested at a state station that will certify what standards it is to be tested against in the future.

Not so sure about this. I have done all manners of motor swaps for my old race car (a Honda ) including the motor from an imported 5-speed car and the motor from an automatic CR-V. In every case, it was pretty clear the engine was not original, but they didn't ask any questions. They just checked that it had a cat and didn't have any loose, dangling equipment and sent me on to the dyno.(at the regular emissions station)

Having said that, again if FtC is a smog area, the roadside driving test vans could save you a big hassle if you pass them enough times within a certain period before your plates renew. The state guy explained all this to me a couple years ago but it's pretty complicated so I forget exactly how it works. How you know is your renewal card says "no emission test required".

All you have to do is have two clean rapid-scan drive-by's in the space of a year. It doesn't even matter if you fail 30 times as long as you have two clean scans. When my tags were due on my old car, no test was required.

 

[SARCruiser]

I was able to somewhat copy mwdubs VSS idea and get it to work pretty well. It isn't perfect yet, but it has a good enough signal for the pcm with a manual transmission since it just needs to know the truck is moving. I can get another flange cut and could probably machine the gear for you as well if you needed it... shoot me a pm if you're interested.
FYI, AA has completely reworked the Downey splitcase VSS and I think its going to be junk... so don't hold your breath for that either.

I actually have a VSS on order from Dakota Digital that I think i can modify to work but failing that, I will let you know. Thanks!

Are you in the smog-test area? If so, according to federal & CO law, if the donor had an auto tranny the recipient has to have the same kind. Also, all the smog stuff has to be there in the same configuration as the donor (but can be aftermarket like cats & headers). When it's done you have to get it inspected & tested at a state station that will certify what standards it is to be tested against in the future.

Having said that, again if FtC is a smog area, the roadside driving test vans could save you a big hassle if you pass them enough times within a certain period before your plates renew. The state guy explained all this to me a couple years ago but it's pretty complicated so I forget exactly how it works. How you know is your renewal card says "no emission test required".

Not so sure about this. I have done all manners of motor swaps for my old race car (a Honda ) including the motor from an imported 5-speed car and the motor from an automatic CR-V. In every case, it was pretty clear the engine was not original, but they didn't ask any questions. They just checked that it had a cat and didn't have any loose, dangling equipment and sent me on to the dyno.(at the regular emissions station)

All you have to do is have two clean rapid-scan drive-by's in the space of a year. It doesn't even matter if you fail 30 times as long as you have two clean scans. When my tags were due on my old car, no test was required.

I have heard every interpretation under the sun for CO's emissions testing requirements. Basically what it boils down to is that Air Care Colorado doesn't really know what direction it's going on a lot of this and as a result there is no consistency between testing centers.

My intention is to just use the rapid-screen stations. According to their website, you have to have two successful tests in a 10-month period in the year prior to your registration renewal in order to avoid going to a testing center. Failing that, I will find out first-hand what the requirements are and proceed with other options as needed.

I will be keeping all of the emissions equipment including EGR, all 4 O2 sensors, two cats, etc.

I don't really want this thread to turn into another debate on emissions so I'm going to just proceed forward with info on the swap from here on without getting into this too much more.

 

[SARCruiser]

Teardown - 1

Alright, got the three projects I had going on friends' cars done and cleared out of my garage and got the She-Beast into the garage yesterday and started teardown

Last time it will be all together with the I-6

Hood, grill and inner fenders starting to come off, starting to work on the core support (probably would have been easier to do the outer fenders before the core support but this worked too).

Had to pull my sliders to get the outer fenders off, fortunately they are bolt-on. We're being really careful through all of this to keep hadware and wires organized. The best way I've found for this is 1. Zip-loc baggies for all hardware and 2. Blue painters' tape for wires. ALWAYS label the bags and wires with a sharpie. On a project like this, some of the wires will get re-used, others won't and some will be spliced into new harnesses so actually labeling them with a name and not just a number is key!

Fenders and core support off. Not really sure what my friend was doing but I'll leave it up for interpretation... Notice my brand-new radiator fan...

 

[SARCruiser]

Parts - 1

And now, on to some new parts that have come in.

Exhaust stuff: 2.5" Magnaflow catalytic converters, 2.5"-3" Y-pipe, O2 sensor ports, 3" in/out Flowmaster 50-series muffler.

Close up on muffler. Note the bright orange sticker denoting which end is the inlet. The Flowmaster design does not work properly in reverse and can cause some serious flow restrictions.

O2 ports. Pretty universal domestic and import-brand ports. I need to buy my O2 sensors and make sure these will work but they are supposed to fit the sensors for this engine.

The inside of the cats. The honeycomb catalyst can be easily seen.

Fuel pump and filter. This filter will be going between the tank and the pump. From what I've seen, I need to pick up one of the dual-purpose filter/pressure regulator combos for an LS1 Corvette to ensure proper pressure in the rail. One more part for the NAPA list.

Tach. This is the same one phishincruisin used in his swap and I plan to set it up the same way by mounting it in the stock tach location in the dash.

I can follow wiring diagrams and make good connections but designing things is not my strong suit so I decided to pay the cash and buy the AutoMeter tach adapter. This is designed to splice into the Vortec wiring harness on the #1 coil and convert that signal to one that is usable by the tach. Supposedly makes the tach fully fluid at all RPMs and avoids any bouncing. For those interested, the instructions can be found on HERE or on Autometer's website.

I also got the Lokar Throttle Cable attached to the engine. I had to add a couple washers on either side of the throttle cable mount to keep it from pulling through the mount but the installation of this is super-simple. I'll have to come back once the engine is in the bay and adjust the cable length as needed. The first picture just gives you an idea of the overall length of the cable, the second is a close-up of the mount and the attachment to the throttle body.

 

[Dirtgypsy]

looking good! would love to an engine swap someday. Are you wide open for a completion date or do you have a time frame in mind?

clint

 

[SARCruiser]

looking good! would love to an engine swap someday. Are you wide open for a completion date or do you have a time frame in mind?

clint

My ultimate deadline is October 1st. I'm teaching a winter 4wd class for my Search and Rescue team in mid-October and I would love to have all the bugs out and the clutch broken in by then. I think that gives me plenty of time. I would like to get it done as soon as I possibly can, though.

On the note of fuel pressure regulation, I've seen some people say that they have run this engine just fine without the corvette filter/regultor since this has pressure regulators built in. Might try it without first and see how it does. Since I am on a budget, the more parts I can avoid buying, the happier my wife and I will be!

 

[e30fj62]

Niceee thread... keep the pics coming..

 

[phishincruisin]

Looking good! it gets to be really fun when parts start coming in. What are you doing for routing your exhaust? And are you getting mandrel bents exhaust tubing or what is your plan?
A hint with the tach.. you will pretty much destroy the Autometer housing to get to the inners. I tried to take it apart without damaging it much and it was a waste of time. But, it isn't too hard to make it fit perfectly. The hardest part is positioning the gap between the face and the front of the stock housing so that the lighting is the same as the other gauges.

 

[usmcruiser]

Nice man. When youre done I may have to come up to fort fun and check her out. I live down in longmont. Do you go to COWY meetings?