VMJ73 Resto-Not (11 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

image.jpg


Was holding washer fluid in one hand, my piece similar in the other, thinking "how'd they think you were supposed to fill THAT?", when it dawned what that piece was for...

Edited: if this were the 100 forum, I'd be trying to figure a way to modify the front 70 OE washer resi with an 80 diverter and hose, to eliminate that goofy filler's necessity. ;)
 
Yep, don't need dat, as we retired leaky rear wahshee thingy
 
All of this just to alleviate the empty feeling of not being able yo drive a Swine?
 
I totally get what you're saying about wheel studs not being long enough for a good feeling.

Are 80 and 60 front studs the same? I'm looking into longer front wheel studs myself and getting no good results.
 
Are 80 and 60 front studs the same?

I don't know, but if 60/70 studs are, 80s won't work.....based on the IS300 studs fitting my 80, but not the 70 front hubs.

70 front studs have a long shank with the knurl midway up the body of, and there's not another application I could find that would work any longer.

If I'd been intent on making it work, would've drilled all out and ran longer domestic studs and lugs.
 
Just make some you lazy bastard. Go buy a metal lathe and get after it. You've got so much free time you know.
 
Just make some you lazy bastard. You've got so much free time you know.

Whadda' you working? Like two days a damn week, now? :flipoff2:

Front extended studs (+15mm over stock) from Australia.

Thanks!!

Extenuating circumstances that are temporary. Hubs that'll eventually run under have IS300s cut for the Trail Ready's.

The rear studs are easier to source locally.

For sure.

Bought Dorman for ease and convenience, but had studs that would've worked, I think for a 60 hub.
 
As part of a clutch pedal and line rehabilitation, one promoted by an extremely contrary pedal, replaced all the fasteners, bushings, springs, and clips, along with MC and slave.

image.jpg


Went through a few MCs, in an attempt to find the perfect match and appease the voices.

The first attempt was a "BJ70" MC with a three hole mounting base, that was a fail, right off.

Second was an HZJ7X MC with incorrect stud location. Note the 3/4 and 1" nomenclature.

image.jpg

image.jpg


Relocated stud, drilled out the other hole, mounted up with a new HZ slave.
image.jpg


Replacing this:

image.jpg
 
Something was still amiss....pedal travel versus clutch engagement didn't feel right, like the last 1/4 of pedal travel was pointless.

Adjusted in every manner possible to correct, but, if starting a few inches from the end of pedal travel and working backwards, the clutch pedal sat well lower than brake.....didn't feel right.

So, rounded up the correct MC for the body and clutch pedal/pedal bucket. Note the 3/4" casting.

image.jpg

image.jpg


First tried to calculate the differences.....

image.jpg


which took longer than it would've to just swap the damn MCs, but, pretty much, the stroke of the BJ and HZ varies and think that and the different bores impact pedal "feel".

Mounted up the BJ MC and was a dramatic improvement than previous, but still a dramatic increase in the amount of pedal pressure with the HD clutch.

Hooked up the HZ senders, but at full operating temp, at idle, gauges barely register.

image.jpg


Tried an 12V FZ/HZ coolant passage sensor for temp and nominally improved.

According to DIY, the 12V VM utilized a 3FE water temp sensor, so guess that's next.

Try an FZ oil pressure sender, too, but don't know what to expect there.

Tried and partially suceeded with glow plug temp sensor, but it doesn't seem to override the timed relay every time.

Still don't know how the resistor factors in, but VM harness has only the block temp sensor, anyway.
 
Fan shroud looks fine. Are you doing all this yourself?

I set my clutch pedal up so it engages in the first 3/4" of pedal travel because I'm lazy :D
 
Fan shroud looks fine.

The pic may not do justice, but there's only 1/4 blade that's actually shrouded.

I don't anticipate cooling issues, because the HZ runs relatively cool and it is a euro spec 24V HZJ73 shroud, but doesn't look, being operative, right.

I set my clutch pedal up so it engages in the first 3/4" of pedal travel because I'm lazy :D

There's no lazy with the HD clutch.

The experience with the H55 behind the VM is what sold me on the H55. It was effortless, but could still feel the clutch in the pedal.

After the HD clutch went in, with the original VM MC and original HZ slave, it was a hard pedal, and I mean very hard, so much so that I think it's probably when the plastic bushings in the pedal assembly cracked and the hole elongated.

image.jpg


In fairness to the HZ MC, the pedal assembly issues may have played a role in why it didn't feel right, I don't know, but it's now as good as it'll get without a booster, not worth the headache of a booster, because I don't mind the workout.

My legs will look that much better in heels.....

Are you doing all this yourself?

I can follow a recipe.

Don't feel comfortable inside diffs, transmissions, transfer cases or engine, but the rest is pretty easy stuff.
 
There's no lazy with the HD clutch.

My legs will look that much better in heels.....
We will let the marketing folks know that we've discovered a new market for the HD clutch line.....cross dressing Cruiserheads :)
 
We will let the marketing folks know....

When you do, notify the warranty department about a pending claim.....I've dented the floor of the 40 underneath the clutch pedal. Haha.

Are RHD clutches on the far right?

May need one to balance the calves, as to not do the Louboutin's disservice.
 
:clap:
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom