Vintage Air ‘76 condenser install question (1 Viewer)

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Vae Victus

Posting more than I know
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Anyone know if it is actually necessary to move the radiator core support mounting location in my model year? It’s a 10/75.

I’m doing a full frame up and there’s nothing on the truck at the moment - it’s easier to ask than to find all the parts and do a test fit at the moment.

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Anyone know if it is actually necessary to move the radiator core support mounting location in my model year? It’s a 10/75.

I’m doing a full frame up and there’s nothing on the truck at the moment - it’s easier to ask than to find all the parts and do a test fit at the moment.

View attachment 2879411

View attachment 2879412
I didn’t and am having issues with the grille catching on the inside of the hood and making it hard to get it aligned correctly. I only need 1/4”. It’s been added to the list. It might be more straightforward to mock up the front end and see where it lays out. The rad support brackets on the crossmember could be slotted as well.
 
There are variations in the spacing of our 40's on the radiator setback. My son's '76 40 has worn two holes in the condenser since we installed his VA system. I solder them up, vacuum and recharge, We finally got it to quit doing that by clearancing the grille. My '79 has the same VA system and doesn't come anywhere near rubbing the condenser coil.
 
I’m installing mine on my 74 this week. I didn’t move the mounts for mine as it looked like I have plenty of room, but now y’all have me rethinking how that grille may affect it down the road. Bad thing for me is that I already have that part installed and tightened down…I got so tired of taking the fan shroud in and out to clearance for the compressor.
 
THATS Crazy talk to J-RIG your RIG for that ?

find a thinner common generic condenser ....
 
I’m installing mine on my 74 this week. I didn’t move the mounts for mine as it looked like I have plenty of room, but now y’all have me rethinking how that grille may affect it down the road. Bad thing for me is that I already have that part installed and tightened down…I got so tired of taking the fan shroud in and out to clearance for the compressor.
I posted an article years ago showing how I split my shroud so the top and bottom sections can come off independently. Makes it much easier to get to the front engine parts.
Split Fan Shroud _Easy belt access without removing the whole fan shroud
Doug
 
You are flying blind unless you mock it up and see what’s needed. Hopefully nothing…..
Yes, but mocking it up is not possible ATM so I'll have to push that decision down the road a bit. I remember someone telling me to wallow out the radiator support mounting holes in the frame into an oval to give you some room to move the radiator in toward the fan a bit. I may do that instead of completely cutting and relocating it (that is, if I mock it up and find that I just need 1/4 to 1/3 of an inch).
 
When I got to that point in the Project Remote Control build, I did a quick mockup with the customer, noted the clearance issues as we were tilting the bib up into place, and made adjustments accordingly. The thought of redrilling the anchor bolts never crossed either of our minds. I can’t remember for sure, (long enough ago that my mother was still alive) but I think I ovaled the frame mounting tabs back somewhere between a 1/4&3/8” to set the core support back in, check fan clearances, retest the bib clearance etc.
He had bought a shiny new replacement clutch drive fan blade for an FJ60 with the extra mini fins on the front face. They became a problem in the tighter space, and we reverted to his original 78 fan, which was still solid, just yellowed. The final decision was to leave the core support at its new position, and take slightly more off the two strut rods, tilting the whole assembly in for just the last bit of room. I don’t remember all the measurements that went into making that call, but I am sure that is what we did, and it was the best solution for his truck.

Hth
 

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