FJ40 Heat - Vintage Air or Factory?

[Jah310]

I have a 1970 FJ40 in which the heat was removed by a PO. I’m in the process replacing the transmission tunnel and while I’m at it figured I’d add a heater box and plumbing everything in. I have nicely refurbished factory heater box and most the various pieces to hook it up to the factory fan etc.

I don’t have any doors and I don’t have a top and don’t plan on changing that other than maybe some soft half doors. I definitely don’t need AC however heat on colder mornings or evenings sure would be nice.

As I was doing a little bit more research, I came across the vintage air heat unit. I knew they had a full AC and heat option, but I didn’t actually realize I had a heat only option. Seems like plenty of folks here have used it with success. Gen II Heater with Defrost and Servo Door Control - https://vintageair.com/gen-ii-heater-with-defrost-and-servo-door-control/

My question is, do you think the vintage air heat would significantly outperform the factory set up, or would they work about the same? I like the idea of keeping as close to a factory set up as possible however I do notice that my factory fan doesn’t seem to blow very hard. Given I have no doors it would be a bummer to get all the heat set up only for the fan to not blow enough to actually produce any usable heat.
Any thoughts would be much appreciated

 

[Jdc1]

Vintage air heater is great- if you aren’t staying stock definitely an upgrade. I like the electronic mixing valve, no cables and integrated blower. Also the 5/8” outlets come with it as a 90* but can be cheaply replaced with the proper angle that hugs the engine blister/firewall. Even running without doors and a top- the heat is noticeable.

 

[Jah310]

Vintage air heater is great- if you aren’t staying stock definitely an upgrade. I like the electronic mixing valve, no cables and integrated blower. Also the 5/8” outlets come with it as a 90* but can be cheaply replaced with the proper angle that hugs the engine blister/firewall. Even running without doors and a top- the heat is noticeable.

Nice that’s great feedback. I wasn’t sure if it was just futile battle given no doors or top.

Can you actually notice the difference in temperature with the electronic mixing valve or is it pretty binary on or off?

 

[Jdc1]

Nice that’s great feedback. I wasn’t sure if it was just futile battle given no doors or top.

Can you actually notice the difference in temperature with the electronic mixing valve or is it pretty binary on or off?

Seems to be more of an on off- but no cables to deal with and the off is really off.

 

[Pighead]

The vintage air heater frees up a lot of room in the engine bay for other stuff and blows a lot of hot air. I didn't use the electronic valve, stayed with a simple manual ball valve, rely on fan speed for temp regulation.

 

[charliemeyer007]

In Germany my 2nd Lt and his driver rigged their no top M151 for winter. The heater was between the two front seats. They took a coffee can, cut slots in the side and stuck it over the heater's outlet duct. Then they would hook their poncho's over the slot. That way they had a warm tent over them. They drove around in thirty below zero that way.

 

[Jah310]

Seems to be more of an on off- but no cables to deal with and the off is really off.

Got it thanks.

 

[Jah310]

Sorry duplicate post

 

[Jah310]

The vintage air heater frees up a lot of room in the engine bay for other stuff and blows a lot of hot air. I didn't use the electronic valve, stayed with a simple manual ball valve, rely on fan speed for temp regulation.

View attachment 3894980

Good to know - I was wondering if I could keep the factory valve and still use the VA set up. Yes, good point on the added space if you eliminate the blower motor... that’s an additional consideration.

 

[Pighead]

Good to know - I was wondering if I could keep the factory valve and still use the VA set up.

Yes. The heater doesn't care how the hot water gets to it. But you'll have an unused switch on the control panel