Video - How to Choose Your Axle Gear ratio

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I stumbled on this video by accident and thought I would share as it helped me understand the logic behind how to choose the right axle gear ratio with diff tire size and all. Not planning on anything upgrades any time soon. Just taking my time and learning :)



Please post your links or other sources on the same topic to spread your wealth of knowledge on this topic and it will be highly appreciated.

A quick search on the forum under 200 series using keyword 'regear' and 'axle gear ratio' resulted in a long list but picked out the links below covering taxonomy, calculations and re-gearing/tire questions:

Differential, Gear Basics and RPM calculator - Just Differentials
35" : Regearing Needed ?
Tire Size Calculator

Anyone running 295/70/17's ?
Fat Amy Gets a Set of 37" Tires





 
AWWWW Yeaaaa! one of my favorite subjects!

Disclaimer: I'm not going to reference sources. This is from growing up and working in one off, ground up build shops, and learning from guys that were racing cars from the '30 and on.

Everything that guy said was right, with just tire size. That was fine even 15 years ago, when overdrives were still around .79:1, aerodynamics weren't that big of a deal with manufactures. Vehicles from the factory had a lot of aerodynamic drag, and fuel prices didn't matter so much. You could take any V8 truck, lift it 6 inches, mud tires, and you might of been ok if living in florida on flat ground with lots of air. So when those era of guys regeared the factory ratio, to a ratio only for a bigger tire, they didn't have to account for the aerodynamic loss, or a transmission that can drop into a second or even third overdrive gear.

Now for a modern, 200 series, tacoma, 4runner, silverado, F-150 (you get the point). These manufactures are spending significant time and money on decreasing the drag coefficient. From the 3rd gen Tacoma with ways to let the air not stick to the sides and release freely off the back, to domestic trucks with as much air dams to not the air get under the truck as possible. Manufactures are then gearing vehicle for their aerodynamics, not the few people who lift, and even take aerodynamic feature off. So the trucks themselves are geared higher (a numerically lower ratio) in every effort to gain every bit of available fuel economy. It makes sense, it just needs to be taken into account if you modify.

Before talking about modifying look at just the 200 6 speed vs 8 speed.
6 speed had a top gear of .588 with a gear ratio of 3.90
8 speed has a top gear of .672 with a gear ratio of 3.30
The power output didn't change, and now you are gearing the whole truck to to maybe get a bit better of fuel economy, it didn't work as the EPA specs are the same, it was really done because of marketing that is (all other 2016 200 series still have the 6 speed) but that leaves you with more against the truck when you modify.

Now for modifying.

Adding a bit bigger tire will change things, absolutely, but the real issue is on the highway and wind resistance. Lifting creates more drag from wind getting caught, then taking the aerodynamic front bumper off and replacing with a winch bar that lets wind now get caught in the wheel well area, then increase rotating mass and weight from the larger tire, all have more effect on todays trucks than the truck of 15 years ago that already from the factory were geared to deal with no aerodynamics and were aided by lower ratios because we didn't care as much about fuel economy.

My '11 200 got a strait up 19mpg at 77 mph highway, all day. Hills and wind didn't require the trans is unlock the torque converter or drop a gear. Even a big 200 can still cut through the wind. When a front ARB winch bar was added and a normal 2-3" lift (still stock tires). I got a solid 16mpg, I couldn't stay locked in 6th on sight uphills. Add 295/70r17 mud tires... 11mpg and 6th gear was non existent. The low RPMs and massive increase of drag that a lifted, winch bumper, mud tired, and RRT'ed 200 just needs more power than what 1600 rpm can deliver.

If I would of regeared for just tire, I would be at about a 4.30, but that didn't take into account aerodynamic drag increase. So I went with 4.88. and I am now at 13mpg. It doesn't over rev, the transmission still requires a downshift on steeper hills. But I can generally get on the highway, on flat ground a cruise. So that when I'm loaded down with camping gear, driving up a Wyoming mountain, with a 40 mph head wind, I still have to drop gear or maybe go to 4th, but I won't have the issue that the guy who just compensates for tire size has when he has to drop to 3rd. And I've been that guy in the past.
 
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If I would of regeared for just tire, I would be at about a 4.30, but that didn't take into account aerodynamic drag increase. So I went with 4.88. and I am now at 13mpg. It doesn't over rev, the transmission still requires a downshift on steeper hills. But I can generally get on the highway, on flat ground a cruise. So that when I'm loaded down with camping gear, driving up a Wyoming mountain, with a 40 mph head wind, I still have to drop gear or maybe go to 4th, but I won't have the issue that the guy who just compensates for tire size has when he has to drop to 3rd. And I've been that guy in the past.

Interesting. I would not have thought about wind resistance in relation to re-gearing. I tend to run a pretty heavy truck, and will definitely end up with Bull-bar/winch, RR, etc. I won't likely be able to do gears until next year, but I'll definitely enter this into my pea-brain when the time comes. Thanks for the post.
 
AWWWW Yeaaaa! one of my favorite subjects!

Disclaimer: I'm not going to reference sources. This is from growing up and working in one off, ground up build shops, and learning from guys that were racing cars from the '30 and on.

Everything that guy said was right, with just tire size. That was fine even 15 years ago, when overdrives were still around .79:1, aerodynamics weren't that big of a deal with manufactures. Vehicles from the factory had a lot of aerodynamic drag, and fuel prices didn't matter so much. You could take any V8 truck, lift it 6 inches, mud tires, and you might of been ok if living in florida on flat ground with lots of air. So when those era of guys regeared the factory ratio, to a ratio only for a bigger tire, they didn't have to account for the aerodynamic loss, or a transmission that can drop into a second or even third overdrive gear.

Now for a modern, 200 series, tacoma, 4runner, silverado, F-150 (you get the point). These manufactures are spending significant time and money on decreasing the drag coefficient. From the 3rd gen Tacoma with ways to let the air not stick to the sides and release freely off the back, to domestic trucks with as much air dams to not the air get under the truck as possible. Manufactures are then gearing vehicle for their aerodynamics, not the few people who lift, and even take aerodynamic feature off. So the trucks themselves are geared higher (a numerically lower ratio) in every effort to gain every bit of available fuel economy. It makes sense, it just needs to be taken into account if you modify.

Before talking about modifying look at just the 200 6 speed vs 8 speed.
6 speed had a top gear of .588 with a gear ratio of 3.90
8 speed has a top gear of .672 with a gear ratio of 3.30
The power output didn't change, and now you are gearing the whole truck to to maybe get a bit better of fuel economy, it didn't work as the EPA specs are the same, it was really done because of marketing that is (all other 2016 200 series still have the 6 speed) but that leaves you with more against the truck when you modify.

Now for modifying.

Adding a bit bigger tire will change things, absolutely, but the real issue is on the highway and wind resistance. Lifting creates more drag from wind getting caught, then taking the aerodynamic front bumper off and replacing with a winch bar that lets wind now get caught in the wheel well area, then increase rotating mass and weight from the larger tire, all have more effect on todays trucks than the truck of 15 years ago that already from the factory were geared to deal with no aerodynamics and were aided by lower ratios because we didn't care as much about fuel economy.

My '11 200 got a strait up 19mpg at 77 mph highway, all day. Hills and wind didn't require the trans is unlock the torque converter or drop a gear. Even a big 200 can still cut through the wind. When a front ARB winch bar was added and a normal 2-3" lift (still stock tires). I got a solid 16mpg, I couldn't stay locked in 6th on sight uphills. Add 295/70r17 mud tires... 11mpg and 6th gear was non existent. The low RPMs and massive increase of drag that a lifted, winch bumper, mud tired, and RRT'ed 200 just needs more power than what 1600 rpm can deliver.

If I would of regeared for just tire, I would be at about a 4.30, but that didn't take into account aerodynamic drag increase. So I went with 4.88. and I am now at 13mpg. It doesn't over rev, the transmission still requires a downshift on steeper hills. But I can generally get on the highway, on flat ground a cruise. So that when I'm loaded down with camping gear, driving up a Wyoming mountain, with a 40 mph head wind, I still have to drop gear or maybe go to 4th, but I won't have the issue that the guy who just compensates for tire size has when he has to drop to 3rd. And I've been that guy in the past.

Great insight @Taco2Cruiser . I am with @Markuson on this, as I overlooked wind resistance into this whole equation. As for MPG, I am still stock and I can never go beyond 13.5MPG on a mix of dd between city and highway so when you say 19MPG that's a miracle in the land of 200.
 
Ahh, sorry let me correct myself. I meant highway miles per gallon, and that would be my same for all the mileage numbers I gave.

I figured highway mpg is probably easier to compare almost all of us, then our personal blend of city and highway.
 
Well said. It also seems that its only those that have not re-geared that are the ones that say its not necessary.



AWWWW Yeaaaa! one of my favorite subjects!

Disclaimer: I'm not going to reference sources. This is from growing up and working in one off, ground up build shops, and learning from guys that were racing cars from the '30 and on.

Everything that guy said was right, with just tire size. That was fine even 15 years ago, when overdrives were still around .79:1, aerodynamics weren't that big of a deal with manufactures. Vehicles from the factory had a lot of aerodynamic drag, and fuel prices didn't matter so much. You could take any V8 truck, lift it 6 inches, mud tires, and you might of been ok if living in florida on flat ground with lots of air. So when those era of guys regeared the factory ratio, to a ratio only for a bigger tire, they didn't have to account for the aerodynamic loss, or a transmission that can drop into a second or even third overdrive gear.

Now for a modern, 200 series, tacoma, 4runner, silverado, F-150 (you get the point). These manufactures are spending significant time and money on decreasing the drag coefficient. From the 3rd gen Tacoma with ways to let the air not stick to the sides and release freely off the back, to domestic trucks with as much air dams to not the air get under the truck as possible. Manufactures are then gearing vehicle for their aerodynamics, not the few people who lift, and even take aerodynamic feature off. So the trucks themselves are geared higher (a numerically lower ratio) in every effort to gain every bit of available fuel economy. It makes sense, it just needs to be taken into account if you modify.

Before talking about modifying look at just the 200 6 speed vs 8 speed.
6 speed had a top gear of .588 with a gear ratio of 3.90
8 speed has a top gear of .672 with a gear ratio of 3.30
The power output didn't change, and now you are gearing the whole truck to to maybe get a bit better of fuel economy, it didn't work as the EPA specs are the same, it was really done because of marketing that is (all other 2016 200 series still have the 6 speed) but that leaves you with more against the truck when you modify.

Now for modifying.

Adding a bit bigger tire will change things, absolutely, but the real issue is on the highway and wind resistance. Lifting creates more drag from wind getting caught, then taking the aerodynamic front bumper off and replacing with a winch bar that lets wind now get caught in the wheel well area, then increase rotating mass and weight from the larger tire, all have more effect on todays trucks than the truck of 15 years ago that already from the factory were geared to deal with no aerodynamics and were aided by lower ratios because we didn't care as much about fuel economy.

My '11 200 got a strait up 19mpg at 77 mph highway, all day. Hills and wind didn't require the trans is unlock the torque converter or drop a gear. Even a big 200 can still cut through the wind. When a front ARB winch bar was added and a normal 2-3" lift (still stock tires). I got a solid 16mpg, I couldn't stay locked in 6th on sight uphills. Add 295/70r17 mud tires... 11mpg and 6th gear was non existent. The low RPMs and massive increase of drag that a lifted, winch bumper, mud tired, and RRT'ed 200 just needs more power than what 1600 rpm can deliver.

If I would of regeared for just tire, I would be at about a 4.30, but that didn't take into account aerodynamic drag increase. So I went with 4.88. and I am now at 13mpg. It doesn't over rev, the transmission still requires a downshift on steeper hills. But I can generally get on the highway, on flat ground a cruise. So that when I'm loaded down with camping gear, driving up a Wyoming mountain, with a 40 mph head wind, I still have to drop gear or maybe go to 4th, but I won't have the issue that the guy who just compensates for tire size has when he has to drop to 3rd. And I've been that guy in the past.
 

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