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That wire gets +12V when cranking and if it was dangleing off near the starter it’s near a lot of good grounds
Builds V8 (SBC) to V8 (Gen III Vortec) swap in my FJ60... (1 Viewer)
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That wire gets +12V when cranking and if it was dangleing off near the starter it’s near a lot of good grounds
- Thread starter
- #162
Well, I really did jinx myself...
Years of ZERO trouble, and all of the sudden I have a "no-start" issue, and now it's pouring out oil! -->
(oil pan was 100% clean and dry 2 weeks ago)
Front main seal, or crank seal...whatever you want to call it...started leaking like a sieve in the last week! I've never had one just "go out", but here we are.
$22 for a Timken seal and a new GM torque-to-yield bolt, and I'll be back in business. Got the balancer off last night, will clean the front of the motor up and hopefully install the new seal tonight, and be back to driving it this weekend.
I'll give it a good once-over and grease the bushings in preparation for GSMTR while I'm under there. This time 2 weeks from now and I'll be on the trails at Windrock, and not sitting behind this desk. Woo hoo!
- Brian
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What was the no-start?
- Thread starter
- #164
^^^ I meant the loose starter trigger wire, causing a no-start. Poorly worded, I guess - That phrase makes it sounds worse than it was.
- Brian
- Brian
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Oh, from the other day.
- Thread starter
- #166
So, the front main / crank seal repair did the trick, no more oil leak.
...
- [Caution - Long Post Ahead] -
GSMTR was this past week, and I was able to attend from Thurs-Saturday.
Had a little trouble with the truck - More on that in a minute...
Thursday our group decided to join the "moderate trail ride". There were maybe 8-10 trucks signed up, but that ballooned into I think 21 vehicles before leaving the park (!). We rode on blue trails (they were e-a-s-y on this route) all the way to the Northeast corner of the property, up to "Careyville Flats" (at the top of the mountain) -->
Truck was running great, the sun was shining, and I wasn't at work...
So after taking pics on the flats, we set off back to the main area of the park (had maybe 15miles on pavement). I was cooling off, running the AC, just cruising near the back of the group...and the truck started to seem like it was missing some of that V8 "punch". I attributed it to heat and the AC load.
...but when we got back to the main entrance (really steep drive up to camp), the engine was knocking (pinging) under load. I figured maybe the fuel pump pre-filter was getting clogged, and planned to change it (I carry a spare - You'll see that I had a clogged one a couple years back).
Anyway, we ate dinner, had a beer or 3, and around 9pm...decided to go on a night ride. Rounded up a good group and headed off to trail 22 for a decent challenge (in the dark) -->
Had a great time, but near the end...I didn't have the off idle power to climb a small ledge without stalling (???). I had also developed a miss at idle.
Got to the top / end of the trail, checked the fuel pump pre-filter, and it was full of fine debris / sediment. It was late, and we needed to get back to camp, so I just decided to address it in the morning.
(to be continued...)
...
- [Caution - Long Post Ahead] -
GSMTR was this past week, and I was able to attend from Thurs-Saturday.
Had a little trouble with the truck - More on that in a minute...
Thursday our group decided to join the "moderate trail ride". There were maybe 8-10 trucks signed up, but that ballooned into I think 21 vehicles before leaving the park (!). We rode on blue trails (they were e-a-s-y on this route) all the way to the Northeast corner of the property, up to "Careyville Flats" (at the top of the mountain) -->
Truck was running great, the sun was shining, and I wasn't at work...
So after taking pics on the flats, we set off back to the main area of the park (had maybe 15miles on pavement). I was cooling off, running the AC, just cruising near the back of the group...and the truck started to seem like it was missing some of that V8 "punch". I attributed it to heat and the AC load.
...but when we got back to the main entrance (really steep drive up to camp), the engine was knocking (pinging) under load. I figured maybe the fuel pump pre-filter was getting clogged, and planned to change it (I carry a spare - You'll see that I had a clogged one a couple years back).
Anyway, we ate dinner, had a beer or 3, and around 9pm...decided to go on a night ride. Rounded up a good group and headed off to trail 22 for a decent challenge (in the dark) -->
Had a great time, but near the end...I didn't have the off idle power to climb a small ledge without stalling (???). I had also developed a miss at idle.
Got to the top / end of the trail, checked the fuel pump pre-filter, and it was full of fine debris / sediment. It was late, and we needed to get back to camp, so I just decided to address it in the morning.
(to be continued...)
- Thread starter
- #167
Got up and changed the prefilter first thing on Friday --> It was nasty.
Fired up the truck...and the miss was still there. It also stumbled as you rev'd it.
Started troubleshooting, and the consensus was that I had a dead coil on the second (and maybe the 3rd) cylinder back on the drivers side.
Grabbed a ride to town from @jasonbraswell as soon as the auto parts store opened, bought 2 coils (wanted a spare, just in case), and headed back to Windrock.
Installed the coil(s) - No change. Cylinders were still "dead". Started swapping components to see if the problem moved...swapped plugs, wires...checked voltage going to the coils...everything checked out. Truck still ran like crap.
Decided to leave it parked at camp and ride along with my brother (@ufg8r) for Friday.
...
Got back to camp after a good day of wheeling and dug into the truck again. After pondering it for the day, we decided it had to be fuel related. Decided to pull the main fuel filter, see if it was clogged. Pulled it off and capped both ends with my fingers, so we could drain the gas into a bottle and see what we were dealing with.
The gas from the "in" side was gross, as expected - Brown, and full of the fine debris that got past the pre-filter. What surprised me was the gas on the "out" side...it looked WORSE! -->
So now we know what the problem is, but why did it manifest as 2 dead cylinders? Gotta be clogged injectors! Time to pull the fuel rails.
Borrowed a second light and a torx driver from @Radwelder (thanks, Rich!), and dug in -->
By now, it was getting late and dark, so the pics stop for the night...
However, I pulled the fuel rails and found that 6 of 8 looked fine, but the second and third injectors on the drivers side (my "dead" cylinders!) were clogged with medium to large debris. The working theory is that the main fuel filter blew out internally, and dumped crap into the rails.
The main fuel feed comes into the rail from the middle, right between those injectors...so it all makes sense.
I borrowed some brake cleaner from @Land Speeder and cleaned them all out the best I could, reinstalled, and fired it up.
Problem solved!!!
I called it a night, but still had to buy a new high pressure filter the next morning...
(continued below...)
Fired up the truck...and the miss was still there. It also stumbled as you rev'd it.
Started troubleshooting, and the consensus was that I had a dead coil on the second (and maybe the 3rd) cylinder back on the drivers side.
Grabbed a ride to town from @jasonbraswell as soon as the auto parts store opened, bought 2 coils (wanted a spare, just in case), and headed back to Windrock.
Installed the coil(s) - No change. Cylinders were still "dead". Started swapping components to see if the problem moved...swapped plugs, wires...checked voltage going to the coils...everything checked out. Truck still ran like crap.
Decided to leave it parked at camp and ride along with my brother (@ufg8r) for Friday.
...
Got back to camp after a good day of wheeling and dug into the truck again. After pondering it for the day, we decided it had to be fuel related. Decided to pull the main fuel filter, see if it was clogged. Pulled it off and capped both ends with my fingers, so we could drain the gas into a bottle and see what we were dealing with.
The gas from the "in" side was gross, as expected - Brown, and full of the fine debris that got past the pre-filter. What surprised me was the gas on the "out" side...it looked WORSE! -->
So now we know what the problem is, but why did it manifest as 2 dead cylinders? Gotta be clogged injectors! Time to pull the fuel rails.
Borrowed a second light and a torx driver from @Radwelder (thanks, Rich!), and dug in -->
By now, it was getting late and dark, so the pics stop for the night...
However, I pulled the fuel rails and found that 6 of 8 looked fine, but the second and third injectors on the drivers side (my "dead" cylinders!) were clogged with medium to large debris. The working theory is that the main fuel filter blew out internally, and dumped crap into the rails.
The main fuel feed comes into the rail from the middle, right between those injectors...so it all makes sense.
I borrowed some brake cleaner from @Land Speeder and cleaned them all out the best I could, reinstalled, and fired it up.
Problem solved!!!
I called it a night, but still had to buy a new high pressure filter the next morning...
(continued below...)
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #168
Thanks to another ride to town from @McDowra , I got a new high pressure filter, and took the truck for a test drive. Was running absolutely great.
Here's the gas I drained from the fuel rail (on the LEFT), and from the filter (RIGHT) after it sat overnight and settled -->
I obviously have a bigger problem (rusty fuel tank) that needs to be addressed, but 2 new filters got me back on the trail for Saturday.
Did a handful of shorter blue trails, and got back to camp early on Saturday for dinner and the raffle.
Couple pics:
So, everything considered...it was a good trip. Great event.
My tank has apparently been replaced (no open recalls, per the Toyota website), so I'll have to fix this one or replace it on my own dime.
Stay tuned!
- Brian
Here's the gas I drained from the fuel rail (on the LEFT), and from the filter (RIGHT) after it sat overnight and settled -->
I obviously have a bigger problem (rusty fuel tank) that needs to be addressed, but 2 new filters got me back on the trail for Saturday.
Did a handful of shorter blue trails, and got back to camp early on Saturday for dinner and the raffle.
Couple pics:
So, everything considered...it was a good trip. Great event.
My tank has apparently been replaced (no open recalls, per the Toyota website), so I'll have to fix this one or replace it on my own dime.
Stay tuned!
- Brian
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Yep time to drop the tank and get it clean
- Thread starter
- #170
As an update to my "rusty fuel tank"...looks like that's NOT the cause.
I took the fuel sender out yesterday to have a look (I've been putting this off for a month, driving the truck only once in July, trying to keep the tank near empty)...I was afraid of what I would find.
However, it looks just fine inside!! It has apparently been cleaned and coated in the past:
To me, the blue color indicates it's been sealed...unless the replacement Toyota tanks are blue inside [???]. The white stuff inside looks like sand, but what you're seeing is all that's in there. The fuel pickup / screen is intact and clean.
...
So, where did all that brown stuff (shown above, in the glass bottles - dirt, rust?) come from?
Has to be either:
1) The factory fuel hard lines are breaking down internally.
2) Or the return line (wasn't connected, was not capped when the carb'd V8 was in the truck) had a bunch of crap in it, and I've now flushed it out and caught in my fuel filters. The main filter (that apparently blew out at Windrock) was new when I did the Vortec swap / hooked up the return line.
...
My plan: Drive it, watch the (clear) fuel pump pre-filter, and change out the high pressure filter in a few hundred miles, see what's inside.
If the pre-filter is clean, but there's a bunch of debris in the main filter...it has to be the fuel hard lines.
Anyone think I'm missing something, or have a better idea?
- Brian
I took the fuel sender out yesterday to have a look (I've been putting this off for a month, driving the truck only once in July, trying to keep the tank near empty)...I was afraid of what I would find.
However, it looks just fine inside!! It has apparently been cleaned and coated in the past:
To me, the blue color indicates it's been sealed...unless the replacement Toyota tanks are blue inside [???]. The white stuff inside looks like sand, but what you're seeing is all that's in there. The fuel pickup / screen is intact and clean.
...
So, where did all that brown stuff (shown above, in the glass bottles - dirt, rust?) come from?
Has to be either:
1) The factory fuel hard lines are breaking down internally.
2) Or the return line (wasn't connected, was not capped when the carb'd V8 was in the truck) had a bunch of crap in it, and I've now flushed it out and caught in my fuel filters. The main filter (that apparently blew out at Windrock) was new when I did the Vortec swap / hooked up the return line.
...
My plan: Drive it, watch the (clear) fuel pump pre-filter, and change out the high pressure filter in a few hundred miles, see what's inside.
If the pre-filter is clean, but there's a bunch of debris in the main filter...it has to be the fuel hard lines.
Anyone think I'm missing something, or have a better idea?
- Brian
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
I would do away with all the factory fuel lines and run new ptfe fuel lines
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I'd get yourself 8ft of 3/8" stainless tubing
- Thread starter
- #173
^^^ Think that might be my next project. We'll see.
...
What I've been working on recently: I decided that I'm probably not going SOA any time soon, but I wanted to address axle clearance.
Seems like every time I go "off roading", stuff like this happens:
The obvious answer is a u-bolt flip kit. I decided to buy one rather than fabricate one...and the "4 Plus Products" option isn't too expensive.
This moves the u-bolt nuts to the top of the axle tube, replaces the OEM spring plate with a skid...and maybe more importantly, moves the shocks up roughly 1.5" (front) and 2" (rear).
Here's what you get:
Front -
Rear -
I already have the rears installed...here's a pic illustrating the difference in shock mounts:
BEFORE
AFTER
(to be continued, next post...)
...
What I've been working on recently: I decided that I'm probably not going SOA any time soon, but I wanted to address axle clearance.
Seems like every time I go "off roading", stuff like this happens:
The obvious answer is a u-bolt flip kit. I decided to buy one rather than fabricate one...and the "4 Plus Products" option isn't too expensive.
This moves the u-bolt nuts to the top of the axle tube, replaces the OEM spring plate with a skid...and maybe more importantly, moves the shocks up roughly 1.5" (front) and 2" (rear).
Here's what you get:
Front -
Rear -
I already have the rears installed...here's a pic illustrating the difference in shock mounts:
BEFORE
AFTER
(to be continued, next post...)
- Thread starter
- #174
Pretty easy install thus far. However, I will say...I wish the new u-bolts were coated. They are bare steel (and trim to length, which is good)...so I had to paint them before finishing the install.
...
On the fronts: I have been running shock extenders (the standard OME yellows were nearly topped out at ride height, after I did the shackle reversal years ago). So they were 3" longer than usual, to have some usable range.
With the new lower mounts, the shocks move up 1.5"...so this won't do. I wanted to keep the same range of motion, so I decided to use a die to cut new threads on the OME shock stud, then trim it to length, and reattach the shock extender. This dropped the overall length exactly 1.5", which was perfect. Here's pics:
Cutting new threads:
Worked OK:
Cut off the extra length:
And, done:
So that's solved...just need to finish the install of the flip kit (hopefully tonight).
- Brian
...
On the fronts: I have been running shock extenders (the standard OME yellows were nearly topped out at ride height, after I did the shackle reversal years ago). So they were 3" longer than usual, to have some usable range.
With the new lower mounts, the shocks move up 1.5"...so this won't do. I wanted to keep the same range of motion, so I decided to use a die to cut new threads on the OME shock stud, then trim it to length, and reattach the shock extender. This dropped the overall length exactly 1.5", which was perfect. Here's pics:
Cutting new threads:
Worked OK:
Cut off the extra length:
And, done:
So that's solved...just need to finish the install of the flip kit (hopefully tonight).
- Brian
- Thread starter
- #175
I forgot to post my last couple pics after finishing the install...
Here's what the front looks like, done:
And a comparison ------>
Before: (pic stolen from the SOR website, I forgot to take one)
After:
...
So while it's "only 3/4 of an inch" more ground clearance...the overall increase in clearance is HUGE.
The stock plates stick out from the sides of the leaf springs over an inch, on top of the shock hanging way down. The new plates are no wider than the leafspring!
I'm really pleased, and I hope I'll get hung up on less rocks in the future...
- Brian
Here's what the front looks like, done:
And a comparison ------>
Before: (pic stolen from the SOR website, I forgot to take one)
After:
...
So while it's "only 3/4 of an inch" more ground clearance...the overall increase in clearance is HUGE.
The stock plates stick out from the sides of the leaf springs over an inch, on top of the shock hanging way down. The new plates are no wider than the leafspring!
I'm really pleased, and I hope I'll get hung up on less rocks in the future...
- Brian
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Great mod! Only those who know understand.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
I have the same setup on my 62 also shackle reversal wondering if i need to extend my shocks mine rides like a tank named her #roughcunt i have a decal on the rear window so everyone knows lol
- Thread starter
- #178
My Brother sent me a pic from the latest Toyota Trails magazine...my truck was used for the main GSMTR article picture!
(screenshot from the online version of the mag)
Thought it was cool, had to add it here.
- Brian
(screenshot from the online version of the mag)
Thought it was cool, had to add it here.
- Brian
Where did you get these parts from?Good to hear you're happy with the PCM work LT1swap did. Thanks.
I looked at a few different conversion harnesses...and if there was a $350-400 option, I'd be all over it.
But I'll take a stab at modifying this stock harness before plunking down $600-750.
I'll definitely post my honest review of "was it worth it" once I get it done!
...
Parts coming in every day - It's like Christmas around here!
Radiator hose adapter(1.5" to 1.5")1.25" to 1.25" (had to swap out for the smaller 32mm inline adapter, as the 38mm one was too large for my factory GM upper radiator hose) with a 1/8 NPT port for a hose barb. This is for the steam vent from the head(s).
The other little piece is a block off plate for the EVAP purge solenoid that was removed from the intake manifold. Similar piece for the EGR hole is coming as well.
I'll post updates as I progress!
- Brian
- Thread starter
- #180
Sorry, missed this before. I'd suggest disconnecting the lower shock mount while it's on level ground, see how much they extend. Might have nearly no down travel (like I did)!
Got the radiator hose adapter and evap/EGR plugs from vendors on Amazon...
- Brian
