ufg8r
SILVER Star
Looks good. Are you gonna add a kick out?
Builds V8 (SBC) to V8 (Gen III Vortec) swap in my FJ60...
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- Thread starter
- #122
Thanks. Not sure on kick outs...I'd like to add them, but I prefer the clean look without. But I'd also like to have the extra protection!
Honestly, it's going to come down to how much motivation I have left once I get them finished in this basic state. We'll see.
- Brian
ufg8r
SILVER Star
Extra protection, but they also help the kids get in and out....
- Thread starter
- #124
A little progress has been made on my sliders...
I've made mounting plates to bolt them to the frame, and have 4 of 6 total installed. Also have 2 actual legs made and tacked on.
Like so:
(actual leg is in the foreground of the pic - The other 'leg' is my jig to locate the sliders as I work)
They are mounted by 3 holes per mount, using 3/8-16 Grade 8 hardware. The lower 2 bolts will take most the load, so I am drilling all the way through the frame, and using a coupling nut (cut to size) as a frame insert (to prevent crushing and add overall strength). Two bolts per - One on the inner side of the frame rail, and one outside (also holds the slider on).
I'm dropping the coupling nut / insert into the frame from one of the large rectangle holes (factory holes), and fishing them into place.
Maybe hard to get what I'm saying...here's the idea:
So it's Bolt --> Slider Mount --> Frame --> Coupling Nut <-- Frame <-- Bolt from inside of frame
Yes, it's harder than it needs to be...and more time consuming. However, it's the strongest method I could come up with to bolt them on without 1) anything hanging below the frame and 2) cutting larger holes / welding sleeves (hard to do on the pass. side rail, with all the lines running down it).
The upper holes simply have a 1" tall / 3" long / 3/16" thick backing plate (with a nut welded to it) placed inside the frame.
Anyway, I should have the rear 2 mounts done / welded on both sides this week...leaving only the front 2 legs to finish. Then paint. My deadline is Mardi Krawl in early-April.
- Brian
I've made mounting plates to bolt them to the frame, and have 4 of 6 total installed. Also have 2 actual legs made and tacked on.
Like so:
(actual leg is in the foreground of the pic - The other 'leg' is my jig to locate the sliders as I work)
They are mounted by 3 holes per mount, using 3/8-16 Grade 8 hardware. The lower 2 bolts will take most the load, so I am drilling all the way through the frame, and using a coupling nut (cut to size) as a frame insert (to prevent crushing and add overall strength). Two bolts per - One on the inner side of the frame rail, and one outside (also holds the slider on).
I'm dropping the coupling nut / insert into the frame from one of the large rectangle holes (factory holes), and fishing them into place.
Maybe hard to get what I'm saying...here's the idea:
So it's Bolt --> Slider Mount --> Frame --> Coupling Nut <-- Frame <-- Bolt from inside of frame
Yes, it's harder than it needs to be...and more time consuming. However, it's the strongest method I could come up with to bolt them on without 1) anything hanging below the frame and 2) cutting larger holes / welding sleeves (hard to do on the pass. side rail, with all the lines running down it).
The upper holes simply have a 1" tall / 3" long / 3/16" thick backing plate (with a nut welded to it) placed inside the frame.
Anyway, I should have the rear 2 mounts done / welded on both sides this week...leaving only the front 2 legs to finish. Then paint. My deadline is Mardi Krawl in early-April.
- Brian
workingdog
GOLD Star
Really nice looking.
ufg8r
SILVER Star
Wouldn't be recognizable as one of your projects if it wast over complicated! Reckon you had some reason you didn't want to weld them on?
- Thread starter
- #127
In case I want to remove / repaint / or modify them. Trying to "future proof" each thing I do to the truck..even if it's really unlikely I'll unbolt them for another 5-10 years.
As I lay under the truck, drilling another hole...I do sometimes question my wisdom. haha...
- Brian
- Thread starter
- #130
Nothing too specific on the AC parts...universal condenser, custom lines in the sizes mentioned, etc...
I agree...but it shouldn't be taking any real load - There's now a 1.5x1.5 square tube leg about 8" forward of the "jig" leg. Its purpose was only to lock in the slider location while I made the actual mounting legs.
Making a couple temp mounts (legs) was the only way I could keep the sliders exactly where I wanted while I worked.
- Brian
- Thread starter
- #131
FINALLY have the sliders on the truck...
I actually finished them up and painted them Saturday before last...but I wanted to do a quick rust repair on the front lower fender(s). Not posting much about that - It was a pain, and I'm not completely in love with the result...but they are fixed and painted, and look 100% better than the large rust holes that were there. Once that was complete, I mounted them this weekend.
Anyway, I painted the slider the same tan color as the center of the wheels, and I think it looks great.
These were a TON more time and effort than I thought they would be to make. When you have to pull out all your tools every time you need to work on them...and are limited to cutting and grinding at night (trying not to piss off the neighbors)...the time adds up.
But in the end, I have some beefy, custom sliders...and I jacked up the whole pass. side of the truck with them, and nothing broke. I'll call it a win!
Here's 2 more pics:
^^ You can see the gussets I added at the mounting flange...
This gives you an idea of how far they stick out. Just enough for my kids to get a toe hold / use them as a step.
I should be able to put them to the test in a few weeks - Dragging the truck up to "Mardi Krawl" at Hawk Pride off road park in N. Alabama. Really looking forward to it.
That's all. Thanks for following along.
- Brian
I actually finished them up and painted them Saturday before last...but I wanted to do a quick rust repair on the front lower fender(s). Not posting much about that - It was a pain, and I'm not completely in love with the result...but they are fixed and painted, and look 100% better than the large rust holes that were there. Once that was complete, I mounted them this weekend.
Anyway, I painted the slider the same tan color as the center of the wheels, and I think it looks great.
These were a TON more time and effort than I thought they would be to make. When you have to pull out all your tools every time you need to work on them...and are limited to cutting and grinding at night (trying not to piss off the neighbors)...the time adds up.
But in the end, I have some beefy, custom sliders...and I jacked up the whole pass. side of the truck with them, and nothing broke. I'll call it a win!
Here's 2 more pics:
^^ You can see the gussets I added at the mounting flange...
This gives you an idea of how far they stick out. Just enough for my kids to get a toe hold / use them as a step.
I should be able to put them to the test in a few weeks - Dragging the truck up to "Mardi Krawl" at Hawk Pride off road park in N. Alabama. Really looking forward to it.
That's all. Thanks for following along.
- Brian
- Thread starter
- #132
Update time!
The Cliff Notes: Trailered my 60 to North Alabama, bought another 60-series, went to a muddy Mardi Krawl, and banged the drivers rear into a boulder!
The long version: Mardi Krawl has become an annual event for my 2 brothers and I...took a few pics, not as many as years past. It was a mud-fest...
(truck was still clean here)
Just before heading up there, I found a FJ62 that needed saving, and made a deal to buy it. It had a rod knock, but also came with an extra 3F-E motor (and a 4-Plus bumper, and leather BMW seats, etc...). It's going to be my wife's daily driver (until she tires of it!)
(had the 62 shipped back to FL - I'll probably do a "mini" build thread on it)
So I finalized that deal while I was in Huntsville, and grabbed the extra motor to bring it home. Stuck the motor on the front of my trailer like the Beverly Hillbillies:
You can also see how much mud stuck to the tires - That stuff was like clay! The new tires did really well, though...I was super happy to not be running the old BFG KO's this time around!
Anyway, we wheeled pretty hard (this truck continues to amaze me with it's capabilities)...but I did tag a boulder on Saturday:
...
Over the last few weeks, most of wrenching time has been dedicated to getting the 62 up and running with the new motor...but I did get the bumper and seats swapped onto my 60! My wife wants it all vintage on the 62, so the upgrades are mine. Win-win, in my book!
(continued, next post)
The Cliff Notes: Trailered my 60 to North Alabama, bought another 60-series, went to a muddy Mardi Krawl, and banged the drivers rear into a boulder!
The long version: Mardi Krawl has become an annual event for my 2 brothers and I...took a few pics, not as many as years past. It was a mud-fest...
(truck was still clean here)
Just before heading up there, I found a FJ62 that needed saving, and made a deal to buy it. It had a rod knock, but also came with an extra 3F-E motor (and a 4-Plus bumper, and leather BMW seats, etc...). It's going to be my wife's daily driver (until she tires of it!)
(had the 62 shipped back to FL - I'll probably do a "mini" build thread on it)
So I finalized that deal while I was in Huntsville, and grabbed the extra motor to bring it home. Stuck the motor on the front of my trailer like the Beverly Hillbillies:
You can also see how much mud stuck to the tires - That stuff was like clay! The new tires did really well, though...I was super happy to not be running the old BFG KO's this time around!
Anyway, we wheeled pretty hard (this truck continues to amaze me with it's capabilities)...but I did tag a boulder on Saturday:
...
Over the last few weeks, most of wrenching time has been dedicated to getting the 62 up and running with the new motor...but I did get the bumper and seats swapped onto my 60! My wife wants it all vintage on the 62, so the upgrades are mine. Win-win, in my book!
(continued, next post)
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #133
So, the 4-Plus bumper is awesome...and it's a good fit (both in appearance, and design):
And the BMW seats on TorFab (?) brackets (installed, but not yet wired up):
They look nice with my center console (all black).
Anyway, that's the latest. Thanks for checking out my build.
- Brian
And the BMW seats on TorFab (?) brackets (installed, but not yet wired up):
They look nice with my center console (all black).
Anyway, that's the latest. Thanks for checking out my build.
- Brian
Still loving your setup. Everything about it 
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I got to take this truck out for a spin last weekend. Very well thought out, put together, and balanced 60. Good work Brian.
- Thread starter
- #136
^^^ I was glad you stopped by, and happy to let you drive it.
...
Nothing really to update on the 'build'...
I did replace the brake master cylinder (again), and that seems to have fixed my not-very-powerful braking.
I'm kicking around the idea of building a storage drawer in the rear, for tools and recovery gear...I'd like something really low, and permanently mounted.
Otherwise, it continues to perform and drive really well.
- Brian
...
Nothing really to update on the 'build'...
I did replace the brake master cylinder (again), and that seems to have fixed my not-very-powerful braking.
I'm kicking around the idea of building a storage drawer in the rear, for tools and recovery gear...I'd like something really low, and permanently mounted.
Otherwise, it continues to perform and drive really well.
- Brian
- Thread starter
- #137
Update time!
As I mentioned in the post above, I wanted a rear storage drawer. Matt was selling his Tuffy drawer (35" wide, 30" deep, ~9" tall), so I bought it (but forgot to take a pic). Nice to have all my tools and recovery gear organized and secure.
The other issue(s) that have come up recently: Front driveshaft has been hitting my crossmember, and my front springs have sagged an inch since installing the 4Plus front bumper.
For the driveshaft...here's what I was dealing with:
The older damage (dent) was from Windrock in Oct, and the shiny part was from Ocala last month. Not sure how it drooped out and started to rub, has been fine for multiple wheeling trips (?).
I had been running a stock front shaft with a 1.25" spacer on the transfer case side (necessary after the shackle reversal), and it *just* cleared the crossmember after a little massaging of the lip. So rather than retube the stock shaft, I went for a new Tom Woods shaft.
Longer splines, and custom length (26" fully compressed, with 4.5" of slip):
(spacer is resting on the wrong side of the stock one - Was just trying to compare lengths)
I was hoping the smaller diameter tube (2" DOM) of the new shaft would clear, but without the spacer pushing it forward (that really helps clearance!)...no go:
Here's how close it was...with the driveshaft resting on the crossmember as shown above, the pinion connection was just a little off:
So, the crossmember will need some cutting and welding to give me some clearance. No big deal, that is the "right" way to address this - I was hoping to sneak by.
--- CONTINUED BELOW ---
As I mentioned in the post above, I wanted a rear storage drawer. Matt was selling his Tuffy drawer (35" wide, 30" deep, ~9" tall), so I bought it (but forgot to take a pic). Nice to have all my tools and recovery gear organized and secure.
The other issue(s) that have come up recently: Front driveshaft has been hitting my crossmember, and my front springs have sagged an inch since installing the 4Plus front bumper.
For the driveshaft...here's what I was dealing with:
The older damage (dent) was from Windrock in Oct, and the shiny part was from Ocala last month. Not sure how it drooped out and started to rub, has been fine for multiple wheeling trips (?).
I had been running a stock front shaft with a 1.25" spacer on the transfer case side (necessary after the shackle reversal), and it *just* cleared the crossmember after a little massaging of the lip. So rather than retube the stock shaft, I went for a new Tom Woods shaft.
Longer splines, and custom length (26" fully compressed, with 4.5" of slip):
I was hoping the smaller diameter tube (2" DOM) of the new shaft would clear, but without the spacer pushing it forward (that really helps clearance!)...no go:
Here's how close it was...with the driveshaft resting on the crossmember as shown above, the pinion connection was just a little off:
So, the crossmember will need some cutting and welding to give me some clearance. No big deal, that is the "right" way to address this - I was hoping to sneak by.
--- CONTINUED BELOW ---
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #138
So, on to the front springs...
After installing the 4Plus bumper back in April/May, it dropped a hair (1/2"?)...and seemed fine. However, after 2 more wheeling trips, it's down another 1/2". Clearly not enough spring up front.
I thought the truck had OME mediums on it...turns out, they are the light configuration (CS003F, only 5 leaves in the pack).
From what I've read on here, a CS003F + a long OME add-a-leaf (D1XL) is the CS004F (medium) spring pack...so I grabbed a pair of D1XL's -->
Pulled the front springs off last night, and got the new leaves put in the spring pack...hopefully I can get them back on the truck tonight, maybe finish it up by the weekend. We'll see.
SO...that's the latest. I know this has deviated from the V8-to-V8 swap and to a regular "build thread" - Tthanks for checking it out, either way.
- Brian
After installing the 4Plus bumper back in April/May, it dropped a hair (1/2"?)...and seemed fine. However, after 2 more wheeling trips, it's down another 1/2". Clearly not enough spring up front.
I thought the truck had OME mediums on it...turns out, they are the light configuration (CS003F, only 5 leaves in the pack).
From what I've read on here, a CS003F + a long OME add-a-leaf (D1XL) is the CS004F (medium) spring pack...so I grabbed a pair of D1XL's -->
Pulled the front springs off last night, and got the new leaves put in the spring pack...hopefully I can get them back on the truck tonight, maybe finish it up by the weekend. We'll see.
SO...that's the latest. I know this has deviated from the V8-to-V8 swap and to a regular "build thread" - Tthanks for checking it out, either way.
- Brian
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- Thread starter
- #139
Front leaves are in, and the truck came up a hair over 1"...so I'm back to the height it was before putting the bumper on (so it sits level again - I hated the nose-down stance). No difference in ride quality, as OME Mediums are the correct springs for this truck, in my opinion.
Making slow progress on getting the new driveshaft installed. I thought it would be plug and play...but it's binding as it rotates.
Well, first off...I "clearanced" the front crossmember. Trimmed off the front lip, made a cut in the valley, and hammered it down maybe 3/8". I still need to cut some filler pieces and weld it up, but here's what it took to clear the driveshaft -->
So, now with it clearing... I went to install the Tom Woods driveshaft, and found that it won't rotate freely. It hangs up on the u-joint "ears" - They hit the flange that's bolted to the transfer case. Sigh.
The shaft isn't at some crazy angle - Just under 20-degrees. I was surprised it's hanging up.
So I grabbed the dremel (with a tiny carbide bit) and ground down the edge of the u-joint housing to a nice 45, and then took a little material off the flange...and it's almost there. I'll need to touch it up a hair tonight, then it can go on for good.
Anyway, that's the progress. A frustrating few days in the garage, for what should have been a quick fix.
Hopefully I can weld up the crossmember and have 4WD again by the weekend!
-Brian
Making slow progress on getting the new driveshaft installed. I thought it would be plug and play...but it's binding as it rotates.
Well, first off...I "clearanced" the front crossmember. Trimmed off the front lip, made a cut in the valley, and hammered it down maybe 3/8". I still need to cut some filler pieces and weld it up, but here's what it took to clear the driveshaft -->
So, now with it clearing... I went to install the Tom Woods driveshaft, and found that it won't rotate freely. It hangs up on the u-joint "ears" - They hit the flange that's bolted to the transfer case. Sigh.
The shaft isn't at some crazy angle - Just under 20-degrees. I was surprised it's hanging up.
So I grabbed the dremel (with a tiny carbide bit) and ground down the edge of the u-joint housing to a nice 45, and then took a little material off the flange...and it's almost there. I'll need to touch it up a hair tonight, then it can go on for good.
Anyway, that's the progress. A frustrating few days in the garage, for what should have been a quick fix.
Hopefully I can weld up the crossmember and have 4WD again by the weekend!
-Brian
- Thread starter
- #140
Quick update:
Got the modified crossmember welded up last night, and smoothed out the channel with a flap disc -->
Added a new lip to the front to give back some strength / rigidity -->
Hit it with some black spray paint...and then put it on before work (so I could drive it again!).
Plenty of clearance now -->
- Brian
Got the modified crossmember welded up last night, and smoothed out the channel with a flap disc -->
Added a new lip to the front to give back some strength / rigidity -->
Hit it with some black spray paint...and then put it on before work (so I could drive it again!).
Plenty of clearance now -->
- Brian
