upper oil pan removal techniques? (1 Viewer)

[AaKnight]

Trying to get the upper oil pan off my 1fz engine to reseal the rear arch. Ive got all the bolts off, including the 17mm ones off the lower bell housing and the 4 bolts from above the lower pan.

no matter how i try to pry on this thing, its not budging. Been at it off and on for 2 days now.

Is there a technique im missing?

im afraid to just start whacking at this thing with a big hammer, and i dont wanna ruin the seal with a screwdriver.... so how does this thing come off???

 

[scrowley]

Rear pass and driver side there is a flat spot on the pan that sticks out further than block. In the front driver the pan sticks out as well. Try to get the rear loose first. If you do the front first the rear of the pan is pushing against the bell housing which makes it harder. You can hit the pan on the sides with a rubber or plastic mallet once you slightly break the seal with a thin pry bar.

 

[AaKnight]

thanks @scrowley for the reply, i did try that using a bigass screwdriver against the frame. I'll try it again later tonight. Maybe im just not strong enuf. I'll pick up a plastic hammer too, havent tried that. If these things dont like to come off so easy, whyd they make em so leaky?!

 

[landtank]

Usually the pans practically fall off from the bad seat the factory does. Did you pull the two lower bolts out from the AC compressor?

 

[AaKnight]

Usually the pans practically fall off from the bad seat the factory does. Did you pull the two lower bolts out from the AC compressor?

yeah, the 2 12mm bolts holding the bracket to the side of the pan are removed... when i try to pull down on the pan i can see the seal at the bell housing moving a little bit. Ill give it another shot this evening. only thing i did not remove was the dipstick, because it is rounded-off. but i removed the dipsticks upper and unhooked the clip so that it moves with the pan.

 

[AaKnight]

thanks @landtank... i got it loose...

@scrowley .... a beer for you sir .... the way it fits tight against the bell housing was my problem, was just wedged in and happy up there.... i'm working at a bit of an angle. once i leveled the rear it dropped much easier, as @landtank had mentioned....

cant wait for the fun of getting it back in. actually expected it to be a lot heavier than it is too..... what did I get myself into? haha!

 

[landtank]

be sure to remove the bolt holding the transmission fill tube to the bell housing prior to re-installing the upper pan.

 

[mod5csi]

Rear pass and driver side there is a flat spot on the pan that sticks out further than block. In the front driver the pan sticks out as well. Try to get the rear loose first. If you do the front first the rear of the pan is pushing against the bell housing which makes it harder. You can hit the pan on the sides with a rubber or plastic mallet once you slightly break the seal with a thin pry bar.

I had good luck hitting these flat spots mentioned with a piece of plastic conduit from above the engine bay.

 

[AaKnight]

@Kernal... i had the front diff out for new bearings and took advantage of the wide open space... i used zip ties to hold back the coolant hose bracket and drive shaft against the frame out of my way and used a jack and removed the engine mounts.

I wound up using a small slide hammer through the holes on the back left and front right side to gently nudge itself off the front studs under the pulley. it was actually easier to separate than the lower pan was, once i got it started.

just like @landtank mentioned, the original FIPG was sparsely applied and just mush back around the rear arch.

the steps i have followed so far are here, posted by @alia176 back in 2003:
Oil pan arch seal

a 6-pack for that dude

his advice about mapping the bolts is no joke, there are so many different lengths and sizes that it'd be a effin nightmare to try to match them all up. I went a step further and numbered them clockwise with a paint marker.

and they have been spot-on so far.

I did spring for the Mr.T OEM FIPG black, and I gotta say it looks a lot like the victor-reinz reinzosil sealant product that VW/Audi uses.

 

[Tbkw01]

So, for someone not doing any other maintenance in this area other than the pan, am I right in thinking that to lift the engine the three mount (nuts?) need to be loosened or removed and the fan shroud dropped prior to jacking around the transmission area. Is the exhaust a problem? Any other areas? )

 

[Tbkw01]

With the understanding that the bolts are mapped and the care of not breaking the fan.

 

[AaKnight]

The diy posted by alia is spot on, the link is above. be careful not to damage the oil level float sensor. replace the square timing cover gasket as well as the o rings for the sensor and dipstick tube. all your mounts will need to be loosened and fan pulled to get enuf lift on the block. if your mounts are in if your mounts are in bad shape now would be a good time to swap them. Not required, but I chose to leave the sway bar on and I removed a radius arm to make it easier to get underneath the truck.

 

[alia176]

the steps i have followed so far are here, posted by @alia176 back in 2003:
Oil pan arch seal

a 6-pack for that dude

his advice about mapping the bolts is no joke, there are so many different lengths and sizes that it'd be a effin nightmare to try to match them all up. I went a step further and numbered them clockwise with a paint marker.

and they have been spot-on so far.

I did spring for the Mr.T OEM FIPG black, and I gotta say it looks a lot like the victor-reinz reinzosil sealant product that VW/Audi uses.

Glad to hear that FAQ post is getting some mileage!!!

 

[ericbirk]

Hey guys,

I have developed an oil leak that was dripping at the bottom of the bell housing. Took the inspection cover off and looked around with a mirror. Is the Toyota factory sealant grey? My truck seems to have about half an inch that got squished out during the last install?
Trying to tell if this is factory or if someone has been in there before I owned it.

 

[duggy]

Hey guys,

I have developed an oil leak that was dripping at the bottom of the bell housing. Took the inspection cover off and looked around with a mirror. Is the Toyota factory sealant grey? My truck seems to have about half an inch that got squished out during the last install?
Trying to tell if this is factory or if someone has been in there before I owned it.

FIPG is black. If grey, somebody has been in there before.

 

[AaKnight]

Interestingly enough, When I took mine out, I found the same thing. I assumed it was a failed attempt by the po to slow the leak. but it indeed was grey and only on the inside of the bell housing where I found it. I distinctly remember using steel wool to get it cleaned off because it seemed to be a different consistency than the black.

 

[Crab Sack]

Actually the factory FIPG is gray and the replacement FIPG is black.
Be sure to replace the o rings in there and then be careful not to use too much fipg or else you can easily hydro-lock a bolt with fipg and blow out the back side of the block bolt hole. Don't ask me how I know.... Just follow the repair manual for fipg placement and torque specs.

Remove the fan and or fan shroud, remove the motor mount bolts and Jack the motor up by the crank pulley in order to remove the upper pan from the truck. It's a nasty job on a lift yet alone on your back in the garage. You may want to forget the six pack and get a case for this one.

 

[ericbirk]

I read the thread on doing the job and there was no mention of o-rings that I can remember. Any idea which ones?

It seems like a bit of a chore but thems the breaks I guess. She treats me well, I should return the favor.

 

[AaKnight]

There is a square oring where the oil chute from pan 1 connects to the timing cover (toyota parts will find it listed with the timing cover parts), there's another one on the dipstick, one on the oil level float sensor, iirc there's also others on the pickup drain tube but they don't need replaced unless they get taken apart and that is not necessary. I also suggest reading the FSM it has very specific details for this job. There's a 96 FSM posted in the classifieds for free download.

Not sure which post you read, this one got me through it:
Oil pan arch seal

 

[bloc]

Square o-ring part number: 11328-66020

Actually the factory FIPG is gray and the replacement FIPG is black.
Be sure to replace the o rings in there and then be careful not to use too much fipg or else you can easily hydro-lock a bolt with fipg and blow out the back side of the block bolt hole. Don't ask me how I know.... Just follow the repair manual for fipg placement and torque specs.

Good advice. Call me OCD but for this reason I got the pan mostly into place but loosely started all of the bolts going into blind holes before actually pushing it up and squeezing the FIPG everywhere.