upper oil pan removal techniques?
- Thread starter AaKnight
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with the front diff out does the engine still need to be lifted to get the upper pan out?
Unfortunately yes
You see, the front axle housing is not your issue, it's that bar that goes from left to right and welded to the chassis that's the issue. If you read my Upper Pan arch seal thread in the FAQ, I make this more clear with pics.
Yep, what @alia176 said. Pretty easy though, undo the motor mounts and fan shroud, then put a jack under the crank pulley.
Another tip, when you're trying to get the pan loose (after you've quadruple checked that you got all the bolts, including BOTH AC bracket bolts) there are two tabs at the back of the pan where you can (gently) use a pry bar.
Does anyone happen to have part numbers for all the seals that need to be replaced? I want to get those ordered at the local place before I pull the pan off and a couple of days. Thanks.
Additionally, which page in the FSM discusses the removal or installation of the upper oil pan? I found a picture with the torque values but that's about it. Thanks
Additionally, which page in the FSM discusses the removal or installation of the upper oil pan? I found a picture with the torque values but that's about it. Thanks
I feel like that is cheating...though after replacing the transmission/TC while leaving the engine in place, it might be easier to just pull all of it out and work upright inside...
Absolutely. I will **never** do an upper oil pan in truck again.
I see a square O ring that should be replaced, and there are two or three more O rings. If you happen to have those p/ns memorized, lmk. I want to order them on my way home.
Thx.
If it's just the upper oil pan and the timing cover is not off, then you just need FIPG and the square o-ring.
00295-00103
11328-66020
I remember reading this statement from @OGBeno last year and thinking, I have done 5 oil pans and never had a problem. Now karma is riding my ass big time. I only put the engine back together about 15 months ago so the FIPG is still up for the fight. Took me over 5 hours to get the lower pan freed. Been at the upper pan now for over 2 hours and I can't even get a razor blade between the pan and block. I have tried prizing where the over lap is but no luck.
How does FIPG hold up to some heat? Not much room down there for a flame but maybe enough to get things started.
I feel ya dude, I feel ya. In my FAQ for the Upper Arch seal renew, I mentioned these two tools. The second one was instrumental in separating the lower oil pan, but the upper oil pan was in fact a PITA. The FSM mentions a relief where you can wedge a screwdriver and I think that's what I did on this last go around.
Funnily enough, I had a copy of your step by step preparations printed out to follow so I had all my ducks in a row. I struggle to understand how this oil pan sprung a leak less than 3 months after it was put back together. The FIPG is doing a fantastic job everywhere else on the pan.I feel ya dude, I feel ya. In my FAQ for the Upper Arch seal renew, I mentioned these two tools. The second one was instrumental in separating the lower oil pan, but the upper oil pan was in fact a PITA. The FSM mentions a relief where you can wedge a screwdriver and I think that's what I did on this last go around.
I "think" this is where I pryed on mine and was able to start the separation.
The pressurized can of ultra black works much better than the squeeze tube.
The pressurized can of ultra black works much better than the squeeze tube.
That’s more goop than I use
If truth be told I probably used more goop than that. I remember on this truck and also the '95 I spread the goop so the whole mating area was covered. I am beginning to thing that was a bad idea.
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This is a great help. I have had a screwdriver in that slot but was semi frightened about prizing too hard. Now I see it is a fairly meaty piece. I might even gently tap a cold chisel in there and see what happens.
Scissor jack laterally between frame and a wood block against the pan has been my go to.
And a Dremel vibrating tool with a smooth spatula blade
And a Dremel vibrating tool with a smooth spatula blade
Success 
The jack handle from my Banner floor jack and a club hammer powered by frustration and a small amount of rage finally drove the FIPG to capitulation. Next step is to raise the engine so I can physically remove it but that is step 7. Currently on step 6. 
The jack handle from my Banner floor jack and a club hammer powered by frustration and a small amount of rage finally drove the FIPG to capitulation. Next step is to raise the engine so I can physically remove it but that is step 7. Currently on step 6.