Are you unhappy with the OEM brakes on your '19? Going from an '09 and then an '11 to now a '17, the 2017 brakes are great, I don't feel like I need better braking at all.
Upgrading brakes for more stopping power. (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Adventureguy
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cboyd
GOLD Star
I ended up doing the D-Line PowerBrake rotors with their pads and all new OEM calipers at 115k (2 were seize) and I cannot complain a bit. Feels tight and very grabby when you get into it. The modulation is constant and perfect for a big 200 even when trailering.
I went with the D-Lines because I am running the RockWarrior 17s and the full BBK or Powerstop kits don’t fit.
Why are any of us on this forum if we are happy with the vehicle exactly the way Toyota built it?
I have a 2016 .. after a couple times using OEM brake rotor that warped due to poor materials used.. I switched to NAPA brakes which have not let me down.
I do drive a lot of mountain roads.
TrueWhy are any of us on this forum if we are happy with the vehicle exactly the way Toyota built it?
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
I've been looking into upgrading rotors & pads and this is the EXACT combo recommended by my favorite garage that installed my airbags and HD alternator.
No Limit Baltimore:
No Limit BMORE - https://www.nolimitbmore.com/
It's my understanding that pads don't get much better than Akebono, and rotors don't get much better than the high-grade Duralast, Raybestos, or similar. Are any of these combos really going to outperform something like that? I know slotted rotors for super heavy braking is a thing, but it has significant disadvantages too.
DBA slotted rotors and Hawk LTS pads is my fav combo (ran on 3 separate trucks) and has noticeably improved pedal feel and will outlast anything out there.
I’d love to hear what you call “significant disadvantages” are to them
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, Toyota OEM rotors suck.
One of the very few parts Toyota has never done quite right and I’d prefer aftermarket in this particular/rare instance
I’d love to hear what you call “significant disadvantages” are to them
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, Toyota OEM rotors suck.
One of the very few parts Toyota has never done quite right and I’d prefer aftermarket in this particular/rare instance
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I too run the Hawk LTS. About a 20% increase in braking force, not insignificant and immediately felt. Good enough that's I recommend replacing today even if you have a lot of pad life left.
Not sure where the complaint is though on the OE Rotors. Zero issues.
Not sure where the complaint is though on the OE Rotors. Zero issues.
I did a full DBA upgrade and upsized my 2014 front rotor to the larger 16+ and really happy with it. They are squeaky when cold and at low speeds but I don’t care. Marginally more expensive than OEM equipment and will lag significantly longer and perform significantly better.
I’ve beat this horse to death here
50% seem to agree and have same premature warping issues, and 50% swear OEM rotors are the best. It’s weird
Google “premature warping toyota rotors” and make your own conclusions
I’ve had enough sets warp prematurely, I’ve made my conclusion and won’t debate on here about it anymore.
People will chime in and say it’s not warping, it’s just build up and this and that. Cool story bro, I’ve literally checked the warpage on a lathe
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Squeak likely from DBA pads. The Hawk LTS cures this.
I had the DBA pads on my Tundra about a month and had same issues and they were LOUD.
Swapped to Hawk LTS and that’s all I’ll run now
Before selling truck, I did a pre inspection. Rotors and pads had about 50-60k HARD miles on them. Rotors miced almost new and pads were about 50%
They’re all I’ll ever run
I've got 77k on my original OEM rotors/brakes. Clearly a LOT of hwy miles. My rotors are indeed not perfect and it's gotten worse in the past 15k. I don't know if it's warpage, runout issue, etc but can say they are pulsating a lot. The pads have a fair bit of life left too.
I’d say 75k-ish is acceptable lifespan for a set of rotors, especially on such a heavy vehicle
I had a 2011 bone stock Tundra and a 2014 highly modified Tundra. Both went through front rotors around 25k, most definitely not acceptable!
Kinda surprised folks on here look at the Tundra rotor swap with an OEM rotor as an upgrade based on my (and many others) experience. But it seems hit or miss honestly
People will say it’s driving style, etc.. I’m almost 50, been driving same way since I was 15. Only 2 vehicles I ever owned that ate rotors so fast both oddly shared the same rotor. It’s not coincidence.
The puzzling part is…. Seems 50% of the people here have similar problems, 50% say it’s delusional
Guessing its all blamed on climate change at this point
Counterpoint: In my 50s as well and never have any rotor issues with any vehicle I've ever owned... Toyota, Lexus, Nissan, Honda, BMW, MB, Infiniti, Ram, GMC. This is true whether sports cars, SUVs, or overland rigs at well over GWVR. The issue isn't how hard you are on the brakes, it's how you rest when stopped. If you allow your vehicle to creep slowly forward you'll avoid 'coking' the pads onto the rotor.
The OE rotors are the common denominator. Driving style is the variable.
However, this doesn't also exclude the potential that the DBA (or other rotors) may be more resistant to a driving style that encourages pad material transfer. If they work better for how you drive then absolutely go for that mod. It's great that there's a solution out there for everyone. I just feel that it's incorrect to categorize OE as 'bad' when I have somewhere in the neighborhood of 150-200k miles across four different Land Cruisers (2x 100 and 2x 200) driven by both myself and Mrs. ORLC and have yet to have any pulsation from OE rotors.
The OE rotors are the common denominator. Driving style is the variable.
However, this doesn't also exclude the potential that the DBA (or other rotors) may be more resistant to a driving style that encourages pad material transfer. If they work better for how you drive then absolutely go for that mod. It's great that there's a solution out there for everyone. I just feel that it's incorrect to categorize OE as 'bad' when I have somewhere in the neighborhood of 150-200k miles across four different Land Cruisers (2x 100 and 2x 200) driven by both myself and Mrs. ORLC and have yet to have any pulsation from OE rotors.
When my F150 rotors “warped” at around 15k miles I just did 3 or 4 hard 60-5 mph stops back to back and then they were fine until 95k when I replaced them with the Powerstop Z36 kit.
BLUF: I'm a proponent of Hawk LTS pads with OEM rotors.
Context: I run Tundra BBKs (equivalent to 2016+ LC200 rotor sizes) on my '09 LX. On 37s, stopping 15k+ lbs combined when towing. LTS pads are a GREAT aggressive pad. As @Oregon LC , 20% immediate brake torque increase. I've run a few other pads and often they may be stronger but come with modulation compromises. LTSs even off-road are excellent without groan or stiction. Medium dust. Squeaks in winter. Did I say these are great pads for the way I like to use my brakes!?
They are a more aggressive pad and users shouldn't be surprised to see rotor wear.
Case Study: I am really hard on brakes. Not only with the aforementioned mods, but I enjoy aggressive driving (when appropriate). Carving up secondary mountain roads is amusing to me when I'm in the mood and is probably what recently did in my brakes. Splendid with plenty of heat capacity and friction down to the last drop (metal on metal). They inspire confidence with heat and will continue to grip even past probably maximum operating temp, where OEM pads will start losing friction in startling fashion early on.
I got 30k miles on my recent set (which I consider good). My commute is local only, with monthly weekend trips laden with gear or camper, so not a lot of opportunity to really put on the miles. I inadvertently got down to metal on metal completely wearing through the pads. This damaged a rotor before I got to it. Reality is, that I would have replaced the rotors anyways as the other rotor that still had pads were worn down to just over 30mm. Rotors start life at 32mm, with 29mm being the minimum per the repair manual.
Brakes are consumables to me and easy enough to service. Best thing about this combination is $90 LTS pad set, and $90 per OEM tundra rotor. Easy enough to source in a couple days. Best vote of confidence from me is to repurchase the same as I often like to try new things. New strong performing brakes for under $300 can't be beat.
Top new, left normal wear, right metal on metal.
Context: I run Tundra BBKs (equivalent to 2016+ LC200 rotor sizes) on my '09 LX. On 37s, stopping 15k+ lbs combined when towing. LTS pads are a GREAT aggressive pad. As @Oregon LC , 20% immediate brake torque increase. I've run a few other pads and often they may be stronger but come with modulation compromises. LTSs even off-road are excellent without groan or stiction. Medium dust. Squeaks in winter. Did I say these are great pads for the way I like to use my brakes!?
They are a more aggressive pad and users shouldn't be surprised to see rotor wear.
Case Study: I am really hard on brakes. Not only with the aforementioned mods, but I enjoy aggressive driving (when appropriate). Carving up secondary mountain roads is amusing to me when I'm in the mood and is probably what recently did in my brakes. Splendid with plenty of heat capacity and friction down to the last drop (metal on metal). They inspire confidence with heat and will continue to grip even past probably maximum operating temp, where OEM pads will start losing friction in startling fashion early on.
I got 30k miles on my recent set (which I consider good). My commute is local only, with monthly weekend trips laden with gear or camper, so not a lot of opportunity to really put on the miles. I inadvertently got down to metal on metal completely wearing through the pads. This damaged a rotor before I got to it. Reality is, that I would have replaced the rotors anyways as the other rotor that still had pads were worn down to just over 30mm. Rotors start life at 32mm, with 29mm being the minimum per the repair manual.
Brakes are consumables to me and easy enough to service. Best thing about this combination is $90 LTS pad set, and $90 per OEM tundra rotor. Easy enough to source in a couple days. Best vote of confidence from me is to repurchase the same as I often like to try new things. New strong performing brakes for under $300 can't be beat.
Top new, left normal wear, right metal on metal.
I loved the Powerstop Z36 brakes on my 2009 LX570. I swore I would stick with OEM brakes on our 2017 LX570, but now that it is time for new brakes I purchased Z36 again for the 2017. Will have full install video along with followup thoughts on them soon.
I recently replaced my pads and rotors and researched the issue more than any sane person should...as I tend to do with everything. In short, the consensus seems to be that the only advantage to drilled/slotted rotors MAY be on very high performance track vehicles which regularly undergo lots of heavy braking at high speeds with very little time to cool off, which I could imagine could also translate to a vehicle that does lots of towing with heavy braking. But even then, it's unclear there are any advantages. The slots/holes can IN THEORY help them cool off faster. But they also result in less surface area for the pads to contact, which may require more braking force, possibly negating the theoretical advantage in cooling. But they're also lighter weight? Yes, but that also means less thermal mass, so again, we're back to the world of trade-offs that probably negate each other.
That's all fine and dandy, but all in the realm of theory. Independent testing shows little or no difference between slotted/drilled rotors and standard rotors when using equivalent pads, calipers, braking pressure, etc. It does show that drilled/slotted rotors cause more noise and cause brake pads to wear faster, meaning they are also much dirtier, Re-profiling them (if you're into that kinda thing, I'm not) is more difficult and they're more expensive to begin with. I'm not sure about the quality of Toyotas OEM rotors, but I know that most legit mechanics will recommend AC Delco, Raybestos, or similar standard rotors, preferably the highest quality you can afford, and Akebono pads are generally considered the best, although Raybestos, Bosch, and Powerstop are all up there too in the same league.
In fact, outside of manufacturers websites selling slotted/drilled rotors, or "racing" forums (where, let's be honest, looks often triumph over ACTUAL functionality) it's tough to find many people advocating slotted/drilled rotors over standard. Yes they are out there, but tough to find, versus the "consensus" seeming to be that traditional solid rotors and good pads are the way to go.
I have found this forum to be a wealth of knowledge, much like this forum, but more tilted towards serious mechanics who nerd out on specs, empirical data, and a vast wealth real world experience actually working on vehicles professionally and as a hobby. This thread kind of summarizes what I found on multiple other blogs, forums, review sites, etc. which is why I went with AC Delco gold rotors and Akebono pads.
Drilled or slotted rotors still relevant?
I've been told by a few people that on modern cars with ceramic brake pads, there's really no benefit to using drilled or slotted rotors any more. The reasoning is that ceramic pads don't outgas or dust up like semi-metallic or organic pads did, so the slots/holes aren't removing any gases or...
bobistheoilguy.com
That said, if you're noticing a marked improvement in your braking performance, that's great! But keep in mind that could be a function of simply changing from old pads/rotors to new ones more broadly. You might've found that you would've got similar or even better results had you gone the "traditional" route. Either way, you do you! Glad you're happy with the new safety clamps!
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