Update: 5W-30 & Heavier Recommended RoTW (12 Viewers)

[unclemat]

On my 2015, I have run M1 0w30 from ~50k to 111k, now switched to M1 0w40. 40 "feels" better and less oil loss (turns out I have a very minor leak on the timing chain cover). The truck was dealer serviced by the previous owner so it likely ran 0w20 until 50k when I bought it. UOA on the M1 0w30 always looked very good. Haven't bothered to test 0w40 yet.

On the 2021 I switched to M1 0w30 at 600 some miles. The truck continues to be a garage queen at less 6k miles, but I plan on switching it to 0w40 as well soon.

The 0w30 is a "thin" 30, readily shears down to 20 range. And the 0w40 is also on the thin side of the 40. Also 0w40 is one of the best oils Mobil makes, can't wrong with it.

 

[04UZJ100]

I have a case Amsoil signature 5W30W in the back of my 24 LX right now. My only concern is what it might do to my warranty. At my 30K service a couple of weeks ago, I had the dealer use 5W20W and the service writer was very supportive of my choice.

It’s recommended in other parts of the world. Toyota would need to decide technical justification as to why it’s not applicable in the US which they won’t be able to do.

I switched my 20 Cruiser and 20 LX to 5W30 at 2000 miles. No issues.

 

[skrypj]

With the recent 877k 6.2L L87 motor recall, GM is swapping over to using 0W-40 in the recalled engines instead. This leaves some credibility in supporting us using heavier weight oil on these modern engines, even though the OEM’s won’t directly admit thicker weight oil (to an extent) does provide better wear protection.

Question though, has anyone considered using 0W-40 instead of 5W-30? 5W-30 has pretty much been my go to oil weight for engines produced in the past 50+ years, but it was something that came to mind.

Ram did the same thing when they were having bottom end issues with the 1st version of the Ecodiesel. It came with 5W-30 originally and then they started specing 5W-40 Rotella T6.

Ford also started doing it with the 3.5 Ecoboost, although I dont think that was because they had failures. They went from 5W-20 to 5W-30 after a couple of years of production, probably to combat fuel dilution from the direct injection. same with the 5.0 Coyote. they had 5W-20 spec'd for a while but a look at the current owners manual shows 5W-30.

Im honestly surprised that Toyota went with 0W-20 on the V35A in the new Tundra/Sequoia/LX/GX and did not change it after the bearing issues.

The interesting thing with the GM 6.2L issue is that the Camaro and Corvette that share the 6.2L have been spec'd with 0W-40 for a long time. In the Camaro owners manual, it specifically says that you may run 5W-30 IF 0W-40 is not available and you do not track the car(street use only). The corvette manual doesnt even give the option. They clearly want those cars running 0W-40.

And yet a 5500 lb Silverado that could potentially be towing a 12000+ lb trailer up massive grade in 120F weather for 10 minutes straight is supposed to be ok running 0W-20?

 

[Artie]

I've been running 5W-30 synthetic in my 200 for over 50,000 miles. Zero issues and reduced knock. I'm pretty certain the 5.7L V8 in every other market in the world calls for a 5 weight oil. Someone smarter than me can weigh in on how much difference there really is between a 0 weight and a 5 weight oil.

Between 0w and 5w there likely isnt much difference, it’s job is on the cold temp starting side of the equation. I went with 0w mainly because the OEM is 0w and if I’m going to be breaking the rules maybe just break them a little bit?? I don’t know… I made the switch at my first oil change with 4500 miles on the clock.

Toyota would need to decide technical justification as to why it’s not applicable in the US which they won’t be able to do.

I’m guessing is for the US CAFE standards and I can’t image it’s making that big a difference in MPG but looking at the ever tighten regulations every little sip of fuel counts.

It’s the same reason we get the auto start stop (ASS) feature and it’s absolutely maddening… no way that’s worth the wear and tear in the long run.

 

[HemiAlex]

That's a cool option for those in hot climates like yourself. Especially heading into this time of year.

I could be wrong, but I would caution strongly for others considering this who live in colder climates going with a 15W weight oil. I posted a graph somewhere here with the cSt of different commonly used oils (0w/5w/etc) and the difference on the lower end of the temp scale starts to be noticeable in the graph once you push up to 15W. My $0.02.

It’s already warm and it will only get hotter.

I run 15w50 in my 355k 2F in the 60 and I’ve started it in 15* weather with zero issue. If the old motor can handle it I’m not worried about this one.

 

[open country]

now switched to M1 0w40. 40 "feels" better and less oil loss (turns out I have a very minor leak on the timing chain cover). The truck was dealer serviced by the previous owner so it likely ran 0w20 until 50k when I bought it. UOA on the M1 0w30 always looked very good. Haven't bothered to test 0w40 yet.

M1 0W-40 has me intrigued, I have been on 5W-30 and all seems well, but moving up on the cold side has me wondering about cold start protection. The switch would cover a wider temp range and M1 has always tested well with that weight being factory fill for many high-end german engines.

I know it's more technically complex than that but just thinking out loud.

 

[CaptRussia253]

Runs great and slightly higher oil pressure at idle.

I chose not to to run lifter additive with this oil and it’s been fine.

I have an occasional timing chain rattle when I run too thin of an oil, no additive or I’m at the end of a 5-7k OCI due to neglect.

I’m at 325,000 miles and the engine is strong as ever.

View attachment 3895175

15W50!!! Damn good s***.

 

[xeuxaz]

The Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-40 is interesting for its more affordable price point and appears to be the OEM oil for Hellcat/TRX, among others. Has anyone run that regularly in their 3UR?

 

[gaijin]

M1 0W-40 has me intrigued, I have been on 5W-30 and all seems well, but moving up on the cold side has me wondering about cold start protection. The switch would cover a wider temp range and M1 has always tested well with that weight being factory fill for many high-end german engines.

I know it's more technically complex than that but just thinking out loud.

The Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-40 is interesting for its more affordable price point and appears to be the OEM oil for Hellcat/TRX, among others. Has anyone run that regularly in their 3UR?

I try to avoid overthinking questions like this, so I stick with what Toyota recommend for my Toyota motor:

I live in an area where, depending on the season, temperatures can range from below 0°F to above 100°F.

I want to be able to use one oil all year round - KISS principle.

From Toyota's recommended oil chart, that leaves me with 3 alternatives: 0W-20, 5W-20, and 5W-30. I like the idea of a heavier high temp oil, so that made 5W-30 the easy choice FOR ME.

Reading some of these comments, I notice that 0W-30 is not on Toyota's recommended oil chart, 0W-40 is not on the chart, and 5W-40 is not on the chart. So why even consider them?

I am aware of all the discussions around this. All about the availability of oil in different regions, the technology has evolved, just check the specs, etc., etc., ad nauseam. To me, that all falls into the abyss of overthinking. Hey, I'm a simple retired engineer, what do I know, right?

Depending on where one lives, if the temperature range is good, then anything on the chart should be acceptable. No argument from me. But step beyond those 6 oils on the chart, and I have to wonder what technology lies beyond the capability of Toyota engineers and is sufficient to override their recommendations. That's too much overthinking.

Just my us$0.02.

HTH

 

[04UZJ100]

I try to avoid overthinking questions like this, so I stick with what Toyota recommend for my Toyota motor:

View attachment 3895324

I live in an area where, depending on the season, temperatures can range from below 0°F to above 100°F.

I want to be able to use one oil all year round - KISS principle.

From Toyota's recommended oil chart, that leaves me with 3 alternatives: 0W-20, 5W-20, and 5W-30. I like the idea of a heavier high temp oil, so that made 5W-30 the easy choice FOR ME.

Reading some of these comments, I notice that 0W-30 is not on Toyota's recommended oil chart, 0W-40 is not on the chart, and 5W-40 is not on the chart. So why even consider them?

I am aware of all the discussions around this. All about the availability of oil in different regions, the technology has evolved, just check the specs, etc., etc., ad nauseam. To me, that all falls into the abyss of overthinking. Hey, I'm a simple retired engineer, what do I know, right?

Depending on where one lives, if the temperature range is good, then anything on the chart should be acceptable. No argument from me. But step beyond those 6 oils on the chart, and I have to wonder what technology lies beyond the capability of Toyota engineers and is sufficient to override their recommendations. That's too much overthinking.

Just my us$0.02.

HTH

Those oils were not around in early 2000s when 3UR was designed.

 

[rscoleman]

0W-20 till 95K then went to 5W-30 and 2 quarts of left over 0W-20. The 100K change was 1quart 0W-20 and rest 5W-30. The upcoming change will be all 5W-30. All my changes have been either Mobil 1 or Costco synthetic.

 

[skrypj]

Between 0w and 5w there likely isnt much difference, it’s job is on the cold temp starting side of the equation. I went with 0w mainly because the OEM is 0w and if I’m going to be breaking the rules maybe just break them a little bit?? I don’t know… I made the switch at my first oil change with 4500 miles on the clock.

I’m guessing is for the US CAFE standards and I can’t image it’s making that big a difference in MPG but looking at the ever tighten regulations every little sip of fuel counts.

It’s the same reason we get the auto start stop (ASS) feature and it’s absolutely maddening… no way that’s worth the wear and tear in the long run.

ASS actually reduces wear in a lot of cases. Cylinder washdown and fuel dilution of the oil is reduced.

 

[Zill]

ASS actually reduces wear in a lot of cases. Cylinder washdown and fuel dilution of the oil is reduced.

Why would there be wash down if the engine is idling at operating temps? Wouldn’t the piston rings effectively seal the combustion chamber at that point?

 

[skrypj]

The Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-40 is interesting for its more affordable price point and appears to be the OEM oil for Hellcat/TRX, among others. Has anyone run that regularly in their 3UR?

I ran 0W-40 PP Euro for one OCI just cause I had it in the garage from a previous vehicle. My engine lived.

0W-20 till 95K then went to 5W-30 and 2 quarts of left over 0W-20. The 100K change was 1quart 0W-20 and rest 5W-30. The upcoming change will be all 5W-30. All my changes have been either Mobil 1 or Costco synthetic.

I did this last oil change. 6 quarts of 5W-30 Supertech with 2 quarts of 0W-20 Supertech just because I have a box of of it sitting in the garage.

 

[dudemancool1904]

Havoline Pro DS comes in 5w-30 and is sold in a cardboard 6 qt package, useful if you have a few leftover 0W-20 quarts to consume.

 

[Boston Mangler]

Just did my oil and tranny fluid change

Was a tad skeptical of @bloc claims about the quietness of the 5w30, but no longer, it’s noticeably quieter after switching to 5w30. Very nice!

Also, in the mountain of service records I have for this 2010 I found nothing regarding the tranny fluid, so guessing it may have been original with 220k. Yowzers!

Anyway, new fresh fluid in tranny also, and THAT is also noticeably quieter as well and the difference in shifting is also noticeably smoother.

No idea why I waited this long to do this, likely lazyiness, but glad I finally did, and very happy with results

 

[gasman4u]

Just did my oil and tranny fluid change

Was a tad skeptical of @bloc claims about the quietness of the 5w30, but no longer, it’s noticeably quieter after switching to 5w30. Very nice!

Also, in the mountain of service records I have for this 2010 I found nothing regarding the tranny fluid, so guessing it may have been original with 220k. Yowzers!

Anyway, new fresh fluid in tranny also, and THAT is also noticeably quieter as well and the difference in shifting is also noticeably smoother.

No idea why I waited this long to do this, likely lazyiness, but glad I finally did, and very happy with results

How’d your old transmission fluid look?

 

[Boston Mangler]

How’d your old transmission fluid look?

Horribly dark

 

[gasman4u]

Horribly dark

Did it smell burnt?

 

[Boston Mangler]

Did it smell burnt?

Didn’t actually smell it. At this point, it is what it is