Update: 5W-30 & Heavier Recommended RoTW (4 Viewers)

[bloc]

All US 200-series 5.7s came with the "towing package" engine oil cooler. I'm assuming some Tundras did not.

Looks like the dipstick differences only apply to before 2013 200s

Dipstick
09/2007 - 06/2009 15301-38060
07/2009 - 04/2012 15301-38061
06/2012 - 2021 all the same 15301-38062

Similar story for the upper oil pan, with 2010 having four different part numbers depending on some codes and whether or not it's "mexico spec". In 2013 the part numbers were set until the end of the 200-series run

Lower pan.. couple different numbers, but one of them applied to the whole 200-series run, one made an appearance for a year or two near 2010


So.. I have no idea why the specified oil capacity would change so much. @OGBeno @cruiserdan @cruiseroutfit any input?

 

[xeuxaz]

I always change my own oil. Reads perfect on the dipstick.

View attachment 3369595

Interesting, Both my 200s have never taken that much on a change.

 

[JS22STL]

2018 and it’s always taken 8.0 (7.9 in the manual) to bring it relight to the full mark. First few times I did just shy of 8 and it always took a tad more to get it full. 8’s my magic number.

 

[Jelder]

FWIW- I just replaced 0W-20 with Kirkland Synthetic 5W-30 last weekend on my 2013 LC. I'm assuming that the pan drained completely, because I put in just under 8 quarts, and the dipstick now reads perfectly to the full line.

 

[chriscosta416]

Here is a video of a LX 5.7 taking 5w40 genuine Lexus oil

 

[mceagle555]

Here is report #2 of #3.

1. 4,500 mile 0w-20 Blackstone Report (Shell Rotella Synthetic)
2. 5,000 mile 0w-20 w/ 1qt Marvel Mytery Oil swapped in @ 4,500 miles (5,000 miles on oil; 500 miles on Marvel Mystery Oil)
3. 5,000 5w-30 . Will run for 5,000 miles & send to Blackstone so we have a back-to-back-to-back 0w-20, 0w-20 w/ additive, & 5w-30 results on same engine

 

[Gr8Daneger]

Part number 12180-38030 is a few $ less expensive and the script is Lexus F car blue. Also used on Tundra and Yaris, so Toyota dealers should have It.View attachment 3267846

Just ordered! Will be switching over to Pen UP when I hit 20K in a few months. I will do some decibel readings before and after the switch as well.

 

[Julian73]

Here is report #2 of #3.

1. 4,500 mile 0w-20 Blackstone Report (Shell Rotella Synthetic)
2. 5,000 mile 0w-20 w/ 1qt Marvel Mytery Oil swapped in @ 4,500 miles (5,000 miles on oil; 500 miles on Marvel Mystery Oil)
3. 5,000 5w-30 . Will run for 5,000 miles & send to Blackstone so we have a back-to-back-to-back 0w-20, 0w-20 w/ additive, & 5w-30 results on same engine

View attachment 3380370

Looks like the mystery oil additive actually diluted the 'Good" high pressure oil additives of Moly, Ca, Magnesium, Phos ands Zinc and also a slight dilution of the base viscosity.

 

[DallasTide]

Just ordered! Will be switching over to Pen UP when I hit 20K in a few months. I will do some decibel readings before and after the switch as well.

I’ll be interested to see the results of your decibal readings. I just switched from unknown 0w20 that the truck came with to 5w30 ultra platinum and, while it’s subtle, I do think the engine is quieter and I swear power delivery feels slightly smoother, but that might be placebo.

 

[NKP Garage]

For anything you drive on the road which still has emissions equipment and catalytic converters the best oil I have found and continue to use in most of my vehicles (including the 200 series), is Mobil1 FS 0w40. It's the bottle that that says "European Car Formula" and has "FS" in in a little circle. This is not the Mobil1 ESP. That is different.

Mobil1 FS 0w40 has the highest content of lubricant additives out of any Mobil1 oils, except for their racing oils and their turbo diesel oils. It is designed for high heat high stress applications. I personally notice quieter engine operation, and less perceived stress when towing when using this oil.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[32cls6speedmt]

@NKP Garage. Great point. The 5w-40 Mobil one euro might be a tad better due to htts

 

[Gr8Daneger]

Interesting video on PUP!

 

[vtl]

For anything you drive on the road which still has emissions equipment and catalytic converters the best oil I have found and continue to use in most of my vehicles (including the 200 series), is Mobil1 FS 0w40. It's the bottle that that says "European Car Formula" and has "FS" in in a little circle. This is not the Mobil1 ESP. That is different.

Mobil1 FS 0w40 has the highest content of lubricant additives out of any Mobil1 oils, except for their racing oils and their turbo diesel oils. It is designed for high heat high stress applications. I personally notice quieter engine operation, and less perceived stress when towing when using this oil.

Just my 2 cents.

This is Mobil 1 0w40 ECF in my European engine that underwent a full rebuild about 2.5 years ago. All parts were hot tanked and cleaned to metal. The car was not driven a lot, so this is about 6k miles and 2 oil changes only.

In my opinion it is pretty dirty and gets dirtier with every oil change. I'm pretty sure it burns in the cahmshaft valleys around 4th and 5th cylinders where the oil flow is lowest and oil itself is hottest.

This time I've tried Pennzoil Platinum 5w40. The best cleaning oil in my experience was Red Line, which was the only oil that was actually cleaning the oil filter housing. But it is darn expensive and need to order it over the net.

 

[Julian73]

This is Mobil 1 0w40 ECF in my European engine that underwent a full rebuild about 2.5 years ago. All parts were hot tanked and cleaned to metal. The car was not driven a lot, so this is about 6k miles and 2 oil changes only.

In my opinion it is pretty dirty and gets dirtier with every oil change. I'm pretty sure it burns in the cahmshaft valleys around 4th and 5th cylinders where the oil flow is lowest and oil itself is hottest.

This time I've tried Pennzoil Platinum 5w40. The best cleaning oil in my experience was Red Line, which was the only oil that was actually cleaning the oil filter housing. But it is darn expensive and need to order it over the net.

So your criteria for a good oil is one that is low in detergents such that it doesn't carry the burnt hydrocarbons (gasoline residues) back to the oil filter. Dark oil does not mean that the oil is burnt.

 

[vtl]

So your criteria for a good oil is one that is low in detergents such that it doesn't carry the burnt hydrocarbons (gasoline residues) back to the oil filter. Dark oil does not mean that the oil is burnt.

It is a varnish left on the surface. A good oil does not leave one. Could be a problem only in hot turbo engines, like that one. N/A engines run pretty cold, they are forgiving for the oil quality.

 

[1HaytchZed]

Why should i trust anything on the 15 pages of this thread vs the Toyota engineers' recommendations?

 

[mceagle555]

Why should i trust anything on the 15 pages of this thread vs the Toyota engineers' recommendations?

So you're going to threadcrap this thread about making a modification to stock, but fully accept relocating your KDSS (which the same Toyota engineers designed) in the thread below?

No one is questioning Toyota engineers...this is a forum of enthusiasts sharing their collective knowledge and ideas. Move on if you don't have something more productive to contribute.

KDSS Delete

⚠️Trigger Warning⚠️ I have decided to relocate my KDSS system to the classifieds section or the scrap yard. Ok, so it’s actually a KDSS delete. And because I’m a good, old fashioned forum “pretend-gineer,” I'm sticking with mostly Toyota factory parts and components which, more or less...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[chriscosta416]

So you're going to threadcrap this thread about making a modification to stock, but fully accept relocating your KDSS (which the same Toyota engineers designed) in the thread below?

No one is questioning Toyota engineers...this is a forum of enthusiasts sharing their collective knowledge and ideas. Move on if you don't have something more productive to contribute.

KDSS Delete

⚠️Trigger Warning⚠️ I have decided to relocate my KDSS system to the classifieds section or the scrap yard. Ok, so it’s actually a KDSS delete. And because I’m a good, old fashioned forum “pretend-gineer,” I'm sticking with mostly Toyota factory parts and components which, more or less...

forum.ih8mud.com

Not to mention this truck runs heavier oils in the rear of the world too!

 

[DallasTide]

Not to mention if you want to keep running 0w20 go right ahead. No skin off anyone in this thread’s back.

 

[gaijin]

Why should i trust anything on the 15 pages of this thread vs the Toyota engineers' recommendations?

Whether to trust or not is entirely up to you, but why do you bother participating in a User Forum if you are not interested in learning the opinions of others?

Have a better day.

HTH