Unsecured cargo options (1 Viewer)

[ozarkmud]

I've finally been considering the dangers of loose cargo in the back flying forward in an accident. Lighter things, like groceries, may not be such a threat, but hitches certainly could be. Or is this issue overstated some of the time?

Some people like to do a cargo barrier. This seems like a good idea, though limits visibility. Most of the time I can get my gear under the window/seat line. In which case, are there good options for cargo covers that would serve a similar role? Seems like the easiest setup with the least drawbacks. 3rd gen 4Runners and others had things like that, although I'm not sure if they were beefy enough or not.

I'm also curious about some kind of storage bin that I could easily strap down for the heavier stuff that tends to stay in the car. I could do drawers, but they're expensive and I'm not quite sure I want to commit something just like that.

I appreciate any thoughts you can offer. Thank you!

 

[ikarus]

I'm a big believer in securing cargo. Mainly for safety in accidents, but also just so you don't have stuff flying around when offroading. I really started thinking about it years ago when I went on a trip with some guys that all had stage 3+ icon setups and they were just flying down trails. After trying to keep up with them for a few hours and catching air a few times, I saw my Yeti in the rear view mirror fly a foot in the air and land with a massive crash when I hit a bump at 40 mph. haha. No eggs for the rest of the trip.

But as far as safety, I definitely don't want my bottle jack or impact gun or anything bouncing around the cabin in a rollover or even minor crash.

I also wasn't quite ready to commit to drawers and a cargo barrier because sometimes I carry people, sometimes 5-6 pelican cases for work, sometimes just camping gear, depending on the trip. So this is still somewhat of a work in progress but I have been using Hardigg cases for a few years now:

They're $$$ brand new, like $400-500 each, but if you live by a military base you can often find people who picked them up at surplus sales and flip then on CL. For those 3 I spent a total of $80. They're basically indestructible, water tight, and have an altitude/pressure valve.

I tie everything down, either through the cargo d rings or the 3rd row seat mounts. This was in my 100 but same idea for an 80.

The Yeti has two slots on each side that are perfect for hookless ratchet straps.

Another thing I experimented with was removing one side of the second row. This gave me enough room to sleep inside without a platform, and additional tie down points where the seats mount:

The only stuff I leave loose is clothes, duffle bags with light camping gear etc.

Anyway like I said it's a work in progress and since then I've actually reduced all that you see there to just two duffle bags, one yeti and one hardigg case. The case has tools and recovery gear in it.

 

[sunrk]

I've switched from using an open tray to contain some recover stuff and spare fluid containers to a pelican case - not quite the same milspec ruggednes but effective, plus it keeps the sun off stuff that would otherwise sit and get UV'd to the max. My toyota jack is in the case too since the factory position in the space above the LHR wheel is not really usable with my custom shelves.

 

[CharlieS]

I'm a big believer in securing cargo. Mainly for safety in accidents, but also just so you don't have stuff flying around when offroading. I really started thinking about it years ago when I went on a trip with some guys that all had stage 3+ icon setups and they were just flying down trails. After trying to keep up with them for a few hours and catching air a few times, I saw my Yeti in the rear view mirror fly a foot in the air and land with a massive crash when I hit a bump at 40 mph. haha. No eggs for the rest of the trip.

But as far as safety, I definitely don't want my bottle jack or impact gun or anything bouncing around the cabin in a rollover or even minor crash.

I also wasn't quite ready to commit to drawers and a cargo barrier because sometimes I carry people, sometimes 5-6 pelican cases for work, sometimes just camping gear, depending on the trip. So this is still somewhat of a work in progress but I have been using Hardigg cases for a few years now:

They're $$$ brand new, like $400-500 each, but if you live by a military base you can often find people who picked them up at surplus sales and flip then on CL. For those 3 I spent a total of $80. They're basically indestructible, water tight, and have an altitude/pressure valve.

I tie everything down, either through the cargo d rings or the 3rd row seat mounts. This was in my 100 but same idea for an 80.

The Yeti has two slots on each side that are perfect for hookless ratchet straps.

Another thing I experimented with was removing one side of the second row. This gave me enough room to sleep inside without a platform, and additional tie down points where the seats mount:

The only stuff I leave loose is clothes, duffle bags with light camping gear etc.

Anyway like I said it's a work in progress and since then I've actually reduced all that you see there to just two duffle bags, one yeti and one hardigg case. The case has tools and recovery gear in it.

I agree with @ikarus.

I want everything that isn't soft (light duffle, jackets, hats) tied down or unable to hit me if I have to stop quick.

I used to be a firefighter and you'd be amazed what damage even a small projectile with good mass can do upon impact. They become missiles.

I haven't set up my 80 fully yet, but I plan to weld up a barrier. It's a trail rig, so I have flexibility to make it completely impractical. I want full floor to ceiling coverage behind the driver and passenger. I will make it lightweight but sturdy, removable (with some effort). A day of cutting and fitting, maybe an hour of welding.

There used to be a Speski barrier for above the second row seats that was awesome. The design was later bought by Wits End, but I don't know if Joey ever made them, or if he did, I don't think he still does. They're rarer than hens teeth nowadays.

On my former '13 200 series I ran a webbed barrier (Raingler) which had the benefit of being removable. On my current '16 200, I'm currently running a Trekbox metal barrier (attached to Trekbox cargo boxes). I like the Trekbox, but wish it had better side and bottom coverage - the bottom is ideal with seats in, but I run without seats. I had a webbing barrier made to fill that gap. I think David leaves the side gaps for side curtain airbags.

On my travel rig, I like the utility of cargo boxes. On my trail rig I don't want the weight. I'll be looking for some of those boxes Ikarus posted, since I need some way to contain tools and spares, without the weight of permanent boxes. I currently also use Front Runner wolf pack boxes for smaller stuff. I strap them down either to floor anchors or in the case of my 200, to track anchors. Come to think of it, I may install some track in my 80 to add options.

If you do end up strapping things down, I'm a big fan of roller cam straps. Rollercam® Tie Down Straps and Ends | Cam Buckle Straps - https://www.rollercam.com/ Recommended to me by someone here on 'mud, they're awesome. I like the looped ends, but of course YMMV.

Also, I'm a big fan of Blue Ridge Overland Gear bags for recovery gear, and keeping them accessible (not buried in boxes, so you can actually access and use them). That also implies being able to secure them. Soft shackles and winch extensions are one thing, but steel shackles, snatch blocks and x-locks have serious mass.

Cargo covers I've seen/owned on Toyotas are visual barriers and aren't going to restrain mass in a rapid stop or collision. If you're going in that direction strapping some sort of restraint to the floor anchors is a better approach. Consider a webbing retention system, Raingler has good options, but US Cargo Control may be cheaper for a custom net. It works for the military, should be fine for you.

 

[Malleus]

I agree with @ikarus.

I want everything that isn't soft (light duffle, jackets, hats) tied down or unable to hit me if I have to stop quick.

I used to be a firefighter and you'd be amazed what damage even a small projectile with good mass can do upon impact. They become missiles.

I haven't set up my 80 fully yet, but I plan to weld up a barrier. It's a trail rig, so I have flexibility to make it completely impractical. I want full floor to ceiling coverage behind the driver and passenger. I will make it lightweight but sturdy, removable (with some effort). A day of cutting and fitting, maybe an hour of welding.

There used to be a Speski barrier for above the second row seats that was awesome. The design was later bought by Wits End, but I don't know if Joey ever made them, or if he did, I don't think he still does. They're rarer than hens teeth nowadays.

On my former '13 200 series I ran a webbed barrier (Raingler) which had the benefit of being removable. On my current '16 200, I'm currently running a Trekbox metal barrier (attached to Trekbox cargo boxes). I like the Trekbox, but wish it had better side and bottom coverage - the bottom is ideal with seats in, but I run without seats. I had a webbing barrier made to fill that gap. I think David leaves the side gaps for side curtain airbags.

On my travel rig, I like the utility of cargo boxes. On my trail rig I don't want the weight. I'll be looking for some of those boxes Ikarus posted, since I need some way to contain tools and spares, without the weight of permanent boxes. I currently also use Front Runner wolf pack boxes for smaller stuff. I strap them down either to floor anchors or in the case of my 200, to track anchors. Come to think of it, I may install some track in my 80 to add options.

If you do end up strapping things down, I'm a big fan of roller cam straps. Rollercam® Tie Down Straps and Ends | Cam Buckle Straps - https://www.rollercam.com/ Recommended to me by someone here on 'mud, they're awesome. I like the looped ends, but of course YMMV.

Also, I'm a big fan of Blue Ridge Overland Gear bags for recovery gear, and keeping them accessible (not buried in boxes, so you can actually access and use them). That also implies being able to secure them. Soft shackles and winch extensions are one thing, but steel shackles, snatch blocks and x-locks have serious mass.

Cargo covers I've seen/owned on Toyotas are visual barriers and aren't going to restrain mass in a rapid stop or collision. If you're going in that direction strapping some sort of restraint to the floor anchors is a better approach. Consider a webbing retention system, Raingler has good options, but US Cargo Control may be cheaper for a custom net. It works for the military, should be fine for you.

Great, more stuff I need that I didn't know I needed.

 

[BILT4ME]

I'm a big believer in securing cargo. Mainly for safety in accidents, but also just so you don't have stuff flying around when offroading. I really started thinking about it years ago when I went on a trip with some guys that all had stage 3+ icon setups and they were just flying down trails. After trying to keep up with them for a few hours and catching air a few times, I saw my Yeti in the rear view mirror fly a foot in the air and land with a massive crash when I hit a bump at 40 mph. haha. No eggs for the rest of the trip.

But as far as safety, I definitely don't want my bottle jack or impact gun or anything bouncing around the cabin in a rollover or even minor crash.

I also wasn't quite ready to commit to drawers and a cargo barrier because sometimes I carry people, sometimes 5-6 pelican cases for work, sometimes just camping gear, depending on the trip. So this is still somewhat of a work in progress but I have been using Hardigg cases for a few years now:

They're $$$ brand new, like $400-500 each, but if you live by a military base you can often find people who picked them up at surplus sales and flip then on CL. For those 3 I spent a total of $80. They're basically indestructible, water tight, and have an altitude/pressure valve.

I tie everything down, either through the cargo d rings or the 3rd row seat mounts. This was in my 100 but same idea for an 80.

The Yeti has two slots on each side that are perfect for hookless ratchet straps.

Another thing I experimented with was removing one side of the second row. This gave me enough room to sleep inside without a platform, and additional tie down points where the seats mount:

The only stuff I leave loose is clothes, duffle bags with light camping gear etc.

Anyway like I said it's a work in progress and since then I've actually reduced all that you see there to just two duffle bags, one yeti and one hardigg case. The case has tools and recovery gear in it.

I like that setup. Now I need to remove my third row seats and find some of those boxes.

I have always been aware of stuff that can fly around in the truck during driving or accidents, so I try to keep the heavy things near the bottom.

Now, I carry so many tools, spare parts, and "stuff" that I am concerned. When I saw pics that @baldilocks posted of his first rollover that scattered his tools and belongings out the front and side windows for almost 1/4 mile, I realized how much of a mess that I would make if that ever happened when I'm on the road.

I do need to do something to try to contain it more, but have it still be easily accessible because I never know what tools I will actually need or use from day to day.

And I need to build a barrier like the Speski as well as side window barriers to keep the stuff in there (also adds theft protection) and maybe even a rear window barrier. I hate to impede my rear view, but there is some safety to consider as well.

 

[CharlieS]

I want to add that about a year ago I was in an offroad rollover in the back of a pinzgauer where we went over multiple times and I was competing for space with a flying chainsaw, hammer, cordless tools, tool batteries, etc. I never want to be in a situation like that again. It will make you take a different point of view on securing cargo.

 

[Malleus]

I like that setup. Now I need to remove my third row seats and find some of those boxes.

I have always been aware of stuff that can fly around in the truck during driving or accidents, so I try to keep the heavy things near the bottom.

Now, I carry so many tools, spare parts, and "stuff" that I am concerned. When I saw pics that @baldilocks posted of his first rollover that scattered his tools and belongings out the front and side windows for almost 1/4 mile, I realized how much of a mess that I would make if that ever happened when I'm on the road.

I do need to do something to try to contain it more, but have it still be easily accessible because I never know what tools I will actually need or use from day to day.

And I need to build a barrier like the Speski as well as side window barriers to keep the stuff in there (also adds theft protection) and maybe even a rear window barrier. I hate to impede my rear view, but there is some safety to consider as well.

If you were closer, you could drop by and pick up my two. They've been in storage for 20+ years, just taking up space.

 

[Malleus]

I want to add that about a year ago I was in an offroad rollover in the back of a pinzgauer where we went over multiple times and I was competing for space with a flying chainsaw, hammer, cordless tools, tool batteries, etc. I never want to be in a situation like that again. It will make you take a different point of view on securing cargo.

...or choosing drivers to ride with

 

[BILT4ME]

I want to add that about a year ago I was in an offroad rollover in the back of a pinzgauer where we went over multiple times and I was competing for space with a flying chainsaw, hammer, cordless tools, tool batteries, etc. I never want to be in a situation like that again. It will make you take a different point of view on securing cargo.

I helped a woman out of her GM Acadia that had lost it and rolled once and ended up in the ditch about 1/2 mile in front of me. She had a huge knot on her head from her Yeti cup that started out in the console.

 

[CharlieS]

...or choosing drivers to ride with

Not to derail this thread, but this particular situation evolved rapidly, with a person driving that was previously (up until minutes before the roll) was a trusted well credentialed offroad instructor. The point is not the particulars, but that things can change quickly, and unsecured items can quickly become unplanned projectiles. Strap that stuff down!!!

 

[BILT4ME]

If you were closer, you could drop by and pick up my two. They've been in storage for 20+ years, just taking up space.

I may take you up on that.

I know I have a couple trips that I need to take to Simpsonville, SC and that's only 106 miles from Charlotte. That's a walk in the park these days.....

 

[Broski]

Everything need to be securely tied down !!

 

[Malleus]

I may take you up on that.

I know I have a couple trips that I need to take to Simpsonville, SC and that's only 106 miles from Charlotte. That's a walk in the park these days.....

LMK!

 

[zapatius]

On the flip side, several years ago there was a guy here that ran from the police in his Lumina (at least it was a Z34). He had an unsecured alternator in the front. He rolled the car several times. It hit just about every window but missed him......crazy how that works.

 

[Box Rocket]

I'm a big believer in securing cargo. Mainly for safety in accidents, but also just so you don't have stuff flying around when offroading. I really started thinking about it years ago when I went on a trip with some guys that all had stage 3+ icon setups and they were just flying down trails. After trying to keep up with them for a few hours and catching air a few times, I saw my Yeti in the rear view mirror fly a foot in the air and land with a massive crash when I hit a bump at 40 mph. haha. No eggs for the rest of the trip.

But as far as safety, I definitely don't want my bottle jack or impact gun or anything bouncing around the cabin in a rollover or even minor crash.

I also wasn't quite ready to commit to drawers and a cargo barrier because sometimes I carry people, sometimes 5-6 pelican cases for work, sometimes just camping gear, depending on the trip. So this is still somewhat of a work in progress but I have been using Hardigg cases for a few years now:

They're $$$ brand new, like $400-500 each, but if you live by a military base you can often find people who picked them up at surplus sales and flip then on CL. For those 3 I spent a total of $80. They're basically indestructible, water tight, and have an altitude/pressure valve.

I tie everything down, either through the cargo d rings or the 3rd row seat mounts. This was in my 100 but same idea for an 80.

The Yeti has two slots on each side that are perfect for hookless ratchet straps.

Another thing I experimented with was removing one side of the second row. This gave me enough room to sleep inside without a platform, and additional tie down points where the seats mount:

The only stuff I leave loose is clothes, duffle bags with light camping gear etc.

Anyway like I said it's a work in progress and since then I've actually reduced all that you see there to just two duffle bags, one yeti and one hardigg case. The case has tools and recovery gear in it.

Your trip description sounds familiar! Need to do another one.

 

[ikarus]

Your trip description sounds familiar! Need to do another one.

I couldn't believe how fast you guys were going. hahah. I'm getting this HDJ81 ready, I won't be the fastest, but, I'll trail behind in the rear on the next one!

 

[ikarus]

Also, I've been wondering if I could make up a system with a lot of cargo tie downs that doubles as a sleeping platform. Maybe something like this Goose Gear setup:

Goose Gear Stealth Sleeping Package for Toyota Land Cruiser 1991-1997 80 Series

The Stealth Sleeping Package for Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Series is a complete solution for those wanting a lightweight and minimalist approach to camping. This package is perfect for those looking for maximum space and comfort. The second row seat deletes also provide storage below the deck.

www.goose-gear.com

 

[Dr Gil]

I used this for about 10 years. Works awesome and great quality.

1990 - 1997 Toyota Land Cruiser (J80) Behind Rear 2nd Row Seats Barrier Divider Net​

 

[Box Rocket]

Also, I've been wondering if I could make up a system with a lot of cargo tie downs that doubles as a sleeping platform. Maybe something like this Goose Gear setup:

Goose Gear Stealth Sleeping Package for Toyota Land Cruiser 1991-1997 80 Series

The Stealth Sleeping Package for Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Series is a complete solution for those wanting a lightweight and minimalist approach to camping. This package is perfect for those looking for maximum space and comfort. The second row seat deletes also provide storage below the deck.

www.goose-gear.com

That's exactly what I do with mine. The middle row folds down and is level with the top of my Goose Gear drawers. I have a couple rows of e-track mounted on top of the drawers that I can use as many tie downs as necessary. At camp, remove the gear and roll out the mattress (soon to be replaced by an exped mattress).
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr