Unifilter mod done. (1 Viewer)

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Feb 8, 2019
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Carlsbad, CA
Did the unifilter mod today for future proofing. Easy and cheap. Foam element was not in bad shape at 52k miles. Have to do same on Tundra next week.

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Keep the factory cap and foam filter that you pulled out. You'll want to reinstall those if/when your air pump and valves fail. The unifilter does not prevent these failures. I had to have the recall done on my truck even after installing the unifilter.
 
Keep the factory cap and foam filter that you pulled out. You'll want to reinstall those if/when your air pump and valves fail. The unifilter does not prevent these failures. I had to have the recall done on my truck even after installing the unifilter.
And for smog too lol
 
Kind of of the tail of Qball, what's the purpose of this mod if it doesn't prevent the air pump and valves from failing?
From what I was reading, I thought that was a primary concern with the foam filter.
If the foam filter does not toast the air pump and valves, what does?
Stupid question: we are talking about the piston cylinder valves in the head, correct?
 
what's the purpose of this mode again? If the foam deteriorates over time then why not just get new foam? Not a huge fan of those cheap filter things. thanks
When the foam deteriorates it gets sucked upstream and causes problems with the valves on the engine block. This causes them to stick and the car will go into limp mode. That being said, the problem can still manifest itself with the valves just due to moisture. That's why I said to keep the factory foam and cap just in case his still fails and he needs to get the warranty done.
 
When the foam deteriorates it gets sucked upstream and causes problems with the valves on the engine block. This causes them to stick and the car will go into limp mode. That being said, the problem can still manifest itself with the valves just due to moisture. That's why I said to keep the factory foam and cap just in case his still fails and he needs to get the warranty done.
All,

This will keep the car running properly and keep the foam from being introduced into the system.

The Unifilter is high quality and cleanable.
 
When the foam deteriorates it gets sucked upstream and causes problems with the valves on the engine block. This causes them to stick and the car will go into limp mode. That being said, the problem can still manifest itself with the valves just due to moisture. That's why I said to keep the factory foam and cap just in case his still fails and he needs to get the warranty done.
Thanks for the info. I've only had my GX for less than a year and still catching up on all the little idiosyncrasies about this model.
But then on that note, if the valves to become an issues, is it time for an entire valve job or will a solvent/cleaner of some kind remedy the issue?
This again raises a copule more questions:
  • How many miles usually before this happens? (just a ball park average)
  • If a valve job, how much $$ are those averaging?
Thanks for everyone's insight!
 
But then on that note, if the valves to become an issues, is it time for an entire valve job or will a solvent/cleaner of some kind remedy the issue?
No need to get a valve job done. The parts that fail are called the secondary air injection switching valves. See my post above.

How many miles usually before this happens? (just a ball park average)
Mine failed at 6 years and 99k miles, and I had the unifilter installed at the time of failure.

If a valve job, how much $$ are those averaging?
I'm not sure how much a valve job would cost. But the repair for the secondary air pump and switching valve replacement is covered under a 10 year unlimited mile recall from Lexus. Before it was being covered people were paying about $2500 for the repairs (Lexus reimbursed them for the cost once the recall came out).

Edited for more details on my replies.
 
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Thanks for the info. I've only had my GX for less than a year and still catching up on all the little idiosyncrasies about this model.
But then on that note, if the valves to become an issues, is it time for an entire valve job or will a solvent/cleaner of some kind remedy the issue?
This again raises a copule more questions:
  • How many miles usually before this happens? (just a ball park average)
  • If a valve job, how much $$ are those averaging?
Thanks for everyone's insight!
Sir,

These trucks will run forever with basic maintenance. Don’t overthink it but take care of your truck. Learn about it your Toyota and it will run well.
 
I tend to trust Toyota OEM engineering... not sure I would do this when one could easily replace the foam as needed. A snorkel, I get, if you're going into a higher dust environment.
 
I tend to trust Toyota OEM engineering... not sure I would do this when one could easily replace the foam as needed. A snorkel, I get, if you're going into a higher dust environment.
The reason people are replacing the factory foam is that it would degrade. It would then get sucked down into the switching valve and cause the valve to get stuck open. The foam also gets baked on to the switching valve due to the higher heat, this breaks the valve causing it to need replacement.
 
Sorry.....question

This air pump only pumps air to the exhaust correct? None can go into the engine itself? Only wondering because of water crossings. I bought the filter but have not put it on yet.

Thanks
 

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