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I will be more specific. Buy a cheap welder then practice. Then take a course, then practice more. If you suck by then don't get a good welder and outsource. If you are good and confident get the best you can afford and never pay again.

2 cents spent, and what I would do.
 
ClemsonCruiser said:
The shocks did happen, but that was because I was in a hurry to finish my spring over and I merely tacked the rears in place and forgot to fully welded them.... see my above comment about the "dangerous" part of the equation when welding.

The roll cage did not fail the tub did due to rust :hillbilly:


Regardless your argument has no merit or facts all you do is try to mock or discredit anyone that speaks against you, that is fine. I was merely trying to help save Gabe from spending a huge chunk of change on a welder that was over kill for welding up sliders or really anything else he would use it for. Just because according to you guys anything else would be suicide :rolleyes:

So to rehash is 220 better absolutely, is it necessary for Gabes situation NO :beer:
Click to expand...

Nothing wrong with a 120 welder as long as you know it's limits. That being said why not skip the whole buying and selling of welders and just get one that works for everything out of the bag.
 
Gabe, buy the 100$ welder, use it for sliders, report back.

It might make a weld that will suffice for you and sliders, but will take two to three times the prep and mind energy than a good 220v welder. I have had 110v welders, I sold them all, and would only consider using one now for body work....unless I did extensive prep work and preheated both pieces of metal before welding with solid wire and gas, (and would only use 110v on a roll cage in a trail fix emergency) flux core is to welding as McDonald's is to genuine food...;-)
 
I am not a 11o v hater,,, I am a realist with a crap ton of experience in this area.. don't buy a toy to do a real job...
 
Lol had no idea i would get this much conversation out of this.
 
21.5" Lifetime LED combo pattern light bar. Just a handheld function test. Was aimed a bit low. The far tree line is 120' away.

image-2178453791.webp

image-2178453791.webp
 
Impressive
 
the gimpey one said:
Impressive
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This is the smallest light that comes in a combo pattern. I have a 42" coming for the roof, a 50" for a customer, and a bunch others for stock. I'm finishing the mounting and wiring tomorrow before the wife gets home - or at least that is the plan.

I also need to mount two 2.5" square pods in the rear bumper. They put out 900 lumens each. That will be an additional 1,800 lumens for backing up. Or I might wire then to an always hot wire so I can flip them on when I want to. That could be nice.

Welded new light tabs on the front bumper today. I hadn't welded in a loooong time. I really enjoyed it. If you want to play with my welder swing by tomorrow between 10 and 3. I have some metal laying around you can practice on.
 
Whoa! Dems bright!

Steve- I wanna come by your shop while Im home! I want to discuss some options of outfitting my rack :D
 
I did the switched lights in the back...much better than reverse only. I use them all the time.
 
If I recall you have a spot in your bumper for them. I didn't, so I did the stealth spare mount in center (gets em up higher for more spread as well).

Gratuitous desert shot :P

935102_10151446831313123_994380080_n.jpg
 
Wish i could afford some range time.
 
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