TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (19 Viewers)

[weejub]

Last time my wife had the tires rotated on the GX, they must have forgotten to return the wheel lock key. She went to get the tires balanced for some vibration and can't find it anywhere. I've cut these off with a die grinder when I worked at Goodyear as a teen, but it sucks. I found this on Amazon and it worked perfectly... once. All the teeth inside sheared right off. Just processed the return... guess I need to order 3 more and return them after the first use
If anyone is aware of a higher quality tool, I'd love a recommendation...
View attachment 3644972View attachment 3644973View attachment 3644974

The dipshits at Costco lost or stripped out my key (can't remember, but I'm the dumbass who DIDN"T swap it out when I should have, though).

Someone here suggested simply getting like a spare 19MM or something smaller than a 21, I believe, and beating it on and then zipping off. I can't remember the size.

Worked well for me in the Costco parking lot.

 

[gasman4u]

The dipshits at Costco lost or stripped out my key (can't remember, but I'm the dumbass who DIDN"T swap it out when I should have, though).

Someone here suggested simply getting like a spare 19MM or something smaller than a 21, I believe, and beating it on and then zipping off. I can't remember the size.

Worked well for me in the Costco parking lot.

If it's the Durham costco, this tracks 100%. Whenever I buy a battery from them, they insist on looking up the vehicle I'm buying for and then (usually) arguing with me about my wanting an AGM vs SLA. Always makes for uncomfortable conversations when other customers are there. I am glad there are good costco's out there, but the durham tire and battery isn't one.

 

[weejub]

UBJ, LBJ and Tie Rod Ends done. Separated the hub and used the bench/vise to help. Alignment done this AM. Ready to roll!

 

[lt1fire]

Did you go with oem or upgrade to total chaos or something.

 

[weejub]

OEM - ~1" lift - she's not a rock crawler - big girl loves to go for a ride, though

Edit: I think she liked this.

 

[lt1fire]

OEM - ~1" lift - she's not a rock crawler - big girl loves to go for a ride, though

Edit: I think she liked this.

View attachment 3663638

Always lube your ball
















Joints

 

[weejub]

Always lube your ball
















Joints

Yes! And use all your grease - I cleaned her up after this pic, and packed in the rest of the top grease as best possible after pushing boot through.



Thinking about swapping out the topper to this one as it would be lighter and give me side access. Would love to install a roof rack on top the ladder rack - not sure about that.

Camper shell LEER Aluminum - general for sale - by owner - craigslist

Brand: LEER Great shape Aluminum body No cracks Glass good Comes with Ladder Rack Measurements in pictures

raleigh.craigslist.org

**Update: Installing a roof rack on this looks to be an issue.**

 

[lt1fire]

Yes! And use all your grease - I cleaned her up after this pic, and packed in the rest of the top grease as best possible after pushing boot through.



Thinking about swapping out the topper to this one as it would be lighter and give me side access. Would love to install a roof rack on top the ladder rack - not sure about that.

Camper shell LEER Aluminum - general for sale - by owner - craigslist

Brand: LEER Great shape Aluminum body No cracks Glass good Comes with Ladder Rack Measurements in pictures

raleigh.craigslist.org

**Update: Installing a roof rack on this looks to be an issue.**

Not looking to make anything amazing out of mine but might add a bed rack for a RTT as this will be primary camping rig until 80 gets here and done. If I win the lotto I'll just have icon set it up to be a comfy and fairly "capable" broverlander

 

[lt1fire]

First time wrenching on the tundra. I knew it was having a knock sensor issue when I bought it. Seems a common thing is for the harness to get chewed on by mice so I went with that forts. Old harness looks mint so I ordered two yota knock sensors for bank 2 to replace.
While in there I realized it would be 100 times easier to bypass the air injection system so I ordered the Gen II kit from Hewitt. It just got here so I did the harness and new pump controller from them, installed the two new knock sensors..... then realized the pcv valve on these are also under the intake manifold so now I'm waiting on an OEM PCV. Figured why not just do it now as I have no idea if this one is original or not. Sounded fine but I'd rather spend 10 bucks and not have to yank the manifold again if this one goes bad in 6 months.
I'll do the blocks off plates to finish up the air bypass kit at the same time.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I don't know a ton about those motors, but isn't it a good idea to replace the starter if you have the intake off for something else? Due to the fact that the starter is in the valley, not down low.

Zooming into the pic I don't see a starter where I'd expect it to be but again, I'm ignorant on these motors.

 

[weejub]

I don't know a ton about those motors, but isn't it a good idea to replace the starter if you have the intake off for something else? Due to the fact that the starter is in the valley, not down low.

Zooming into the pic I don't see a starter where I'd expect it to be but again, I'm ignorant on these motors.

I think that is the 3UR, 5.7L? 2UZ is stuck down in the valley.

 

[lt1fire]

I don't know a ton about those motors, but isn't it a good idea to replace the starter if you have the intake off for something else? Due to the fact that the starter is in the valley, not down low.

Zooming into the pic I don't see a starter where I'd expect it to be but again, I'm ignorant on these motors.

I thought the exact same thing when I started, not knowing much about these motors. Tell you the truth I wish it was in the valley. It's tucked up so far behind the passenger side exhaust manifold I'd imagine that has to come off to access it. Took a while to locate behind all the heat shields.
I guess that would be one way to justify doing some Doug Thorley headers at the same time.

 

[Comet]

Comet (1997 is a no fly) has a wicked knock that follows idle that only gets worse the more it idles. Trailering home instead of legally putting it back on the road to better diagnose issue. Stan’s offer for a free 1FZ-fe may have been a blessing in disguise for Comet and not for WTF. Lizard brain tells me to keep buying more land cruisers, bride and wallet say thin the herd. Full stop to determine direction.

 

[open country]

Monthly reminder to never buy a Ford Ecoboost truck!

Cam phasers and chain for the daily driver. My apologies to Mr T. for being too cheap to buy a 5.7 Tundra.

 

[JohnVee]

@open country For those of us with limited knowledge and skills (like me!), can you say what we should be seeing in that pic?

 

[lt1fire]

@open country For those of us with limited knowledge and skills (like me!), can you say what we should be seeing in that pic?

His hydrocilator went out

 

[gasman4u]

Monthly reminder to never buy a Ford Ecoboost truck!

Cam phasers and chain for the daily driver. My apologies to Mr T. for being too cheap to buy a 5.7 Tundra.

View attachment 3665786

The first audible rattle (canary) is what finally lead me to sell mine. That, and the fact that it was going to cost around $7k for me to get everything replaced correctly. No thanks. I was religious about using GREAT oil/filters. Can’t fix a fundamental design flaw as a consumer unfortunately without tearing it down as you are. Super fast truck (especially compared to the former gen 5.7 tundra), but ultimately performance comes at a cost I guess.

 

[open country]

@open country For those of us with limited knowledge and skills (like me!), can you say what we should be seeing in that pic?

The first audible rattle (canary) is what finally lead me to sell mine. That, and the fact that it was going to cost around $7k for me to get everything replaced correctly. No thanks. I was religious about using GREAT oil/filters. Can’t fix a fundamental design flaw as a consumer unfortunately without tearing it down as you are. Super fast truck (especially compared to the former gen 5.7 tundra), but ultimately performance comes at a cost I guess.

Front cover removed and seeing the primary timing chain with cam phasers along the top. Super common issue with 2011 to current F150's/SUVs/even Taurus SHO with Ecoboost 2.7/3.5 engines, that the cam phasers (oil pressure acutated VVT) do not get adequate startup pressure with age and rattle the timing chain on cold start, which then leads to stretched chain, damaged guides, check engine light, etc. Mine made it to 160k miles on original parts with perfect maintenance history, which is longer than most. Rattle started about 5k after I bought it and I've been pushing it a few months before biting the bullet on this job. Allegedly these OEM parts I'm installing are "updated" and will last, but who knows.

About $1200 in OEM "while you're in there" everything and it's taking about 3x longer than a 2UZ timing belt (I've done 3 of those).

My neighbor has a 2015 F150 and 2021 Expedition, both with 3.5 EB engines, and has paid the dealer over $9k for the jobs on both.

 

[gasman4u]

Front cover removed and seeing the primary timing chain with cam phasers along the top. Super common issue with 2011 to current F150's/SUVs/even Taurus SHO with Ecoboost 2.7/3.5 engines, that the cam phasers (oil pressure acutated VVT) do not get adequate startup pressure with age and rattle the timing chain on cold start, which then leads to stretched chain, damaged guides, check engine light, etc. Mine made it to 160k miles on original parts with perfect maintenance history, which is longer than most. Rattle started about 5k after I bought it and I've been pushing it a few months before biting the bullet on this job. Allegedly these OEM parts I'm installing are "updated" and will last, but who knows.

About $1200 in OEM "while you're in there" everything and it's taking about 3x longer than a 2UZ timing belt (I've done 3 of those).

My neighbor has a 2015 F150 and 2021 Expedition, both with 3.5 EB engines, and has paid the dealer over $9k for the jobs on both.

apparently you've got a GREAT parts source. I remember having to price all the stupid "torque to spec" bolts that would actually change physical dimensions (read: lengthen) when you actually torqued them down - nice one, fOrD - and it was more than that iirc.

Check out fordtechmakuloko on YT for anything EB related. He's what CCN is to toyota, but for FoRd.

 

[Pick]

My previous tow vehicle (6.0 Powerstroke) was notorious for the TTY bolt failure. I bought mine after it had been "bullet-proofed" with ARP head studs. But that was a nightmare for Ford, I can't believe they continued with those...