TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (4 Viewers)

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I don't have an oxy torch setup. Just plumbers propane/mapp gas torch.
I forgot, you have that sweet plasma torch, and a table.
 
Yeah but that's more a "can't be tight if it's liquid" tool, lol.

Heat the manifold body around the seized stud with the torch. Doesn't need to be glowing red. Spray the stud with pb blaster, immediately after the torch action, then try to take it out.
 
EDIT:
Now you'll see why I don't do this sort of thing. Stan just let me know my URL was FUBAR. The one I posted was w/o the 12 extension and nozzle. The one below is the one I bought and filmed in action. And the price went up after I bought mine; I hope this didn't cause too much grief.:bang:

I don't usually do this, but this worked so well, I had to stop and film it. GuardAir 79SG012
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This is Charlie's 80. He is one of my neater children, but he does not value a clean engine bay. Here it is now.

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I love this thing. The wand is long enough to reach through the engine bay to the axle, it sprays only where you point it, it uses literally no fluid and still gets the job done. I sprayed for 45 minutes and used less than a gallon of water with an 8-cfm compressor. The pressure is throttled down to about 20 or 30 pounds, but I cleaned all of that with water, and it definitely was not clean beforehand. And when you're done, it'll dry the area, just pull the siphon out of the container you're drawing from.

I have a video, but it won't upload. If I can figure out this web interface, I'll post it.

EDIT: this website is beyond me. I guess I need another engineering degree to figure it out. If anyone can tell me how to post a video, I'll put it up.
 
I love this thing. The wand is long enough to reach through the engine bay to the axle, it sprays only where you point it, it uses literally no fluid and still gets the job done. I sprayed for 45 minutes and used less than a gallon of water with an 8-cfm compressor. The pressure is throttled down to about 20 or 30 pounds, but I cleaned all of that with water, and it definitely was not clean beforehand. And when you're done, it'll dry the area, just pull the siphon out of the container you're drawing from.

I have a video, but it won't upload. If I can figure out this web interface, I'll post it.

EDIT: this website is beyond me. I guess I need another engineering degree to figure it out. If anyone can tell me how to post a video, I'll put it up.
Easiest I've found is to upload to youtube and then paste the link here.
 
Here's the video:

Thanks @mtweller !

No flaming about my videography skills; I was far more interested in working than shooting content.

The point I was trying to make was how well this thing cleans and how little water it sprays outside of the area I was trying to clean.

I have the head off and an oiled paper towel (several actually) lying on the block. The fender and firewall were cleaned with this and the paper never even got damp.

And yes, it's well oiled and I vacuumed the cylinders afterward anyway, because I was scraping the headgasket off the block, and I'm changing the oil after the headgasket R&R.:censor:
 
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GuardAir 795

Thanks @mtweller !

No flaming about my videography skills; I was far more interested in working than shooting content.

The point I was trying to make was how well this thing cleans and how little water it sprays outside of the area I was trying to clean.

I have the head off and an oiled paper towel (several actually) lying on the block. The fender and firewall were cleaned with this and the paper never even got damp.

And yes, it's well oiled and I vacuumed the cylinders afterward anyway, because I was scraping the headgasket off the block, and I'm changing the oil after the headgasket R&R.:censor:

Man that’s awesome!! Will definitely be getting one of those. Thanks for the heads up!
 
We used to use something similar when I worked for a company that fabricated machines from structural steel. The steel warp/twist and bow tolerances which are fine for buildings are not even close enough to use for a machine, so we'd heat one side with a torch and spray water form a 5-gal bucket on the other. A 14-inch W-flange bends like taffy.

You can make one using a tee, you just need a smaller drop in the tee than the through passage. The venturi effect takes care of the rest.
 
Here's the video:

GuardAir 795

Thanks @mtweller !

No flaming about my videography skills; I was far more interested in working than shooting content.

The point I was trying to make was how well this thing cleans and how little water it sprays outside of the area I was trying to clean.

I have the head off and an oiled paper towel (several actually) lying on the block. The fender and firewall were cleaned with this and the paper never even got damp.

And yes, it's well oiled and I vacuumed the cylinders afterward anyway, because I was scraping the headgasket off the block, and I'm changing the oil after the headgasket R&R.:censor:
I can hear my air compressor from here 😅

WHRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
 
We've had great luck buying used Toyota/Lexus SUV's the past decade but this one might be the exception... 2011 GX460 w/ 160k
- Bought new tires and tried to get an alignment, 2 shops both said the LCA's won't adjust and need to be replaced... repair still pending
- Keep getting an intermittent AC error message but when I put it in the HVAC diagnostic mode, it displays "00" for no error. Still need to sort that out
- Got a CEL the other day and found a P2714 Pressure Solenoid stuck. All the forum posts I found ended in transmission replacement. I found the "sealed" transmission service on the web and thought "$50, it's worth a try".

I drained the pan (about 2 quarts) and put 2 quarts back in. Drove around for 20-30 minutes, cycling through all the gears manually. I drained the pan again (about 2.5 quarts) and put 3 back in. I put it in transmission temperature mode and drained the excess after the fluid reached 115*F. I reset the code and drove around for another 20-30 minutes. It's shifts well and the code didn't come back (too early??)

Anyway, need to decide what to do. My wife really wanted an LX but we could find one that's reasonable so we settledfor this. Maybe we start looking again...

Here the fluid on a paper towel:
Top: first drain
Middle: last drain after the 2nd change
Bottom: new fluid for comparison

I was freezing today and got in a hurry; found the crush washer in my drain pan (was just going to reuse them) so I'll have to change it one more time to get that back on.View attachment 2915457
Hey @Pick I’m not familar with the 470 but when I did my ATF on my 570 I found a Grt video on the procedure and ended up getting almost all the fluid (Toyota WS atf stuff) out first by pan then the rest came out the cooling lines…. Then used a little $25 hydraulic pump off Amazon to refill after each mini-drain. There was some unique steps on forcing the thermostat to open and then of course the temp sensor Easter egg procedure…. I’d assume the 80/470 boards have some similar videos. By the time I was done my fluid was looking pretty legit…. I did 10.5 of the 13ish, at 200k miles it might have been the first flush, def since we bought at 141k


Post in thread 'What have you done to your 200 Series this week?'
What have you done to your 200 Series this week? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/what-have-you-done-to-your-200-series-this-week.818471/post-14230745
 
The head is back form the machine shop (it actually finished up on Friday; I've been more interested in working than postin

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Many thanks to Steve, Mike and the young man in the back! Two day's turnaround for cleaning, flattening the bottom face, grinding valves & seats, installing new valve seals, trimming the valve stems to suit the grind, and setting the backlash. All for a little over $400. I consider that a real bargain and I promised I would give them the recommendation they deserve:

Check out posts #5638 & #5641 to see what they started with. The head is the beauty target for the intakes.
 

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The head is back form the machine shop (it actually finished up on Friday; I've been more interested in working than postin

View attachment 2925154

Many thanks to Steve, Mike and the young man in the back! Two day's turnaround for cleaning, flattening the bottom face, grinding valves & seats, installing new valve seals, trimming the valve stems to suit the grind, and setting the backlash. All for a little over $400. I consider that a real bargain and I promised I would give them the recommendation they deserve:

Check out posts #5638 & #5641 to see what they started with. The head is the beauty target for the intakes.
Glad it worked out for you, Fred.
 
I don't know how this happens *all* the time, but it does...
My wife gets home last night and tells me the check engine light is back on. I sigh, think all the work I did on the fluid change was a waste and ponder the expense of a transmission replacement. We swap her stuff out for her to drive the Sequoia and on a whim, I decided to drive her car to work this morning.

My ride in:
View attachment 2918216

No CEL 🙄
She will come unglued at why everything works for me and nothing works for her. Apparently, I'm the only one in the house that can push the washing machine button just the right way for it to start.
Did your wife happen to get the CEL on a cold morning? I used to get them randomly on a cold morning, but the CDL light would also be flashing.
 
It was a cold evening so maybe that was it. I drove it for a week and it hasn't happened since. Hopefully the fluid change resolved the Solenoid problem.
We did get the A/C error message again but I didn't get a chance to put it into the diagnostic mode. It's very intermittent.

Thanks!!
 
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Thought i have a massive seal leak, turns out i lost a knuckle stud on both sides.😬

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I forgot how long it takes to POR a frame. When I did my LX, I had my dad give me a hand. I just finished the second base coat and will do the two top coats tomorrow most likely. Had a brain fart and forgot to wear gloves when I started the first coat so I have some nice semi-permanent tattoos that should last for the next 4-6 weeks 🤬 Not pictured are the ones on my forearms and elbows...

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Progress pic so far. The before pic is before I did any wire wheel work
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I hate when I get drops of it on my forehead and face.
I look like Morgan freeman for a few days.
 

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