TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (10 Viewers)

[Malleus]

Here's the bottom of the head, in the machine shop.

 

[Malleus]

So, both upper and lower intake and the upper 2 inches of the exhaust headers have about an 1/8" of carbon on them. Oven cleaner had absolutely no effect on the crud. Short of a wire brush, anyone have any ideas one how to dissolve it? I'm halfhartedly considering the Russian method.

I could sandblast the headers, and I might, just to get the rust off and some paint on, but that's not an option for the intakes (not sure why).

Also, any thoughts on reusing the exhaust header "lock nuts"? The studs and nuts are going into the Evaporust for the day tomorrow, just to see if they'll free up, before I add them to my list of new parts (the bill for the sensors alone is $262, and that doesn't cover the new connector housing I don't yet have, or have found).

 

[Malleus]

Has anyone tried Berryman's Chemdip? The SDS lists water (50%), Heterocyclic Amine (20%), ethyl alcohol (20%) and some voodoo (10%). I had to look up HCA; pretty novel use for waste.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Imo replace the exhaust studs and nuts, including the ones in the manifolds that connect to the downpipe.

For the dip, no idea. Could soak the whole thing in acetone for a few days, or try burning it all out like on YouTube.

 

[roadstr6]

On the downpipes, once you remove the studs, take a grinder and skim a smidge off the header ends. There is a doughnut that goes between each header and each downpipe. Removing a little bit of surface will allow you to tighten the headers and downpipes up to sufficiently crush the new doughnuts for a nice, leak-free connection.

I use Berrymans for carb rebuilds. It's good stuff, but it comes in a gallon jug and it's not cheap. There has to be a better solution solution
Kerosene or diesel might cut it along with a stiff bristled wire brush chucked in a drill. I honestly wouldn't hesitate to sandblast the intakes if it were me. You've just got to make sure they are free of sand on the inside before you bolt them back up. Blow them out good and give them a soap and water bath in a washtub. The fire method may work just fine too. I'd be a little worried about cracking the casting though.

Everyone breaks at least one knock sensor. I know I did. I looked around and found an aftermarket one for much cheaper than Toyota and it appears to be the exact same part as the Toyota one. Import Direct 17-0744. I purchased at O-Reilly's. Seems like it was $40 or so.

 

[Malleus]

Dave, you may have just saved my marriage. Toyota wants $186.20 for that knock sensor; IMHO, $1 is too much for what that thing does (or is intended to do).

 

[Malleus]

I hadn't thought about aftermarket sensors, but that makes good sense. I was relfexively ordering form Toyota, when I should have followed my own advice; theses sensors aren't critical to the engine operation or performance, just compliance with Jimmy Carter's America vision.

 

[SFROMAN]

I want to say that I bought my Toyota knock sensors off of eBay for like $20.
I just replaced them in July.

I would search around. I know I didn’t pay that much though.

 

[Malleus]

Found the engine coolant sensor (gauge) connector housing: 90980-11428

Hope this helps someone else.

 

[Pick]

I can vouch for the eBay sub $20 knock sensors. I replaced the one in my 1st Toyota, a 1994 (2nd Gen) 3VZE 3.SL0W

 

[Comet]

Carbon. ATF/acetone mix. Soak it, wait, nylon bristle brush in the drill. Slow as molasses but it has helped on project wtf (Wisdom Turned Folly).

 

[Malleus]

Imo replace the exhaust studs and nuts, including the ones in the manifolds that connect to the downpipe.

For the dip, no idea. Could soak the whole thing in acetone for a few days, or try burning it all out like on YouTube.

What's the external Torx (if that's what it is) size for the tool to extract/install the studs? I tried using two nuts, without success (not the first time that's happened, either).

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Idk, I have a set of them and just pick the one that fits.

If the two nut trick didn't work, bind the nuts together tighter. If that still doesn't work, the etorx socket isn't going to work either imo.

Heat and penetrating oil.

 

[Malleus]

The nuts might have worked, if I could have gotten them started on opposite sides of the thread. Unfortunately, they both kept finding the same starting root, so they just turned together.

 

[Malleus]

Idk, I have a set of them and just pick the one that fits.

If the two nut trick didn't work, bind the nuts together tighter. If that still doesn't work, the etorx socket isn't going to work either imo.

Heat and penetrating oil.

On an unrelated note, what type/brand of flame arrestors are you using on your acetylene torch? I installed a set from hobo frate and now I can't get enough flow to produce a decent flame. My setup didn't have them when I bought it.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I don't have an oxy torch setup. Just plumbers propane/mapp gas torch.

 

[fourtrax]

Don't have any on my oxy/act setup. Been using it for about 30 years now. My cruiser doesn't have air bags either.

 

[SFROMAN]

have you tried cleaning the tip?
This can make a hell of a difference on the ease of setting up a cutting flame.

 

[FJ Noob]

What's the external Torx (if that's what it is) size for the tool to extract/install the studs? I tried using two nuts, without success (not the first time that's happened, either).

It should be an E10 socket

 

[Malleus]

have you tried cleaning the tip?
This can make a hell of a difference on the ease of setting up a cutting flame.

It's a new tip. It works fine without the flashback inserts, just doesn't want to flow with them.