TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (8 Viewers)

[Malleus]

FZJ80 head gasket R/R:

What's the preferred tool for removing the upper/lower, rear exhaust header nut/stud? Really long 14mm ratchet wrench?

Any way to get an air tool in there? Without removing the transmission cable and A/C line, I mean.

I tried a std 14mm impact socket and swivel on the lower, but it won't turn far enough for me to get the extension in it, and I can't reach the upper at all.

I've unbolted the front header and removed the nuts from the lower rear header to the pipe, so, if all the starts line up, the head can come out with the rear header attached. Maybe.

Poor image, they're behind the kickdown cable, in the rear corner.

 

[Malleus]

While I'm on the subject, does anyone have anyone experience with, and/or opinions on, Jet-Hot and Cerakote header coatings?

 

[fourtrax]

i just use a medium length 14mm socket on a 3/8 ratchet. or a 14mm swivel adapter socket

something like this

just long enough to fit and clear the firewall bump

 

[JohnJB]

While I'm on the subject, does anyone have anyone experience with, and/or opinions on, Jet-Hot and Cerakote header coatings?

I’m not going to claim to be super knowledgeable but my exhaust from headers to muffler were done by Jet Hot. The headers, down pipes, and piping until muffler (minus cats) are the ultra and then my muffler is the classic. It’s only about a year old at this point. The previous owner claimed a noticeable reduction of heat around the lower transmission tunnel area where the exhaust comes close to the floor.

Only picture I have on hand at the moment. You can see the two different coatings though.

 

[roadstr6]

FZJ80 head gasket R/R:

What's the preferred tool for removing the upper/lower, rear exhaust header nut/stud? Really long 14mm ratchet wrench?

Any way to get an air tool in there? Without removing the transmission cable and A/C line, I mean.

I tried a std 14mm impact socket and swivel on the lower, but it won't turn far enough for me to get the extension in it, and I can't reach the upper at all.

I've unbolted the front header and removed the nuts from the lower rear header to the pipe, so, if all the starts line up, the head can come out with the rear header attached. Maybe.

View attachment 2908100

Poor image, they're behind the kickdown cable, in the rear corner.

I pulled mine with both exhaust manifolds and the lower intake manifold attached. It wasn’t a problem.

 

[Malleus]

I pulled mine with both exhaust manifolds and the lower intake manifold attached. It wasn’t a problem.
View attachment 2908391

Who did you use for the machine shop work?

 

[roadstr6]

Quality Auto Machine in Monroe. Owner’s name is Mike Aldridge. He skimmed the head, installed new seals, re-cut the seats. Guides were fine, so I kept them in. I chose to have him just “tip” the valve stems rather than buy new shims and painstakingly reset all the lashes. Some folks say that tipping the valves is not the best way, because the hardened surface of the valve tip gets ground off. Whatever….Most folks I talked to said that they did theirs the same way I did. I have had no problems. Truck makes 190 psi on every cylinder.

 

[mtweller]

I think I found my cable shifters for our 80. Big thanks to Mel Kluhsman of Kluhsman Racing Products for his patience on the phone!
Spring loaded handles allow you to set stops on the end. They handle dirt track racing, think we're good. They will mount as high as I can get them and still have full view of the stereo/Nav screen. Everything below that horizontal bar above the ashtray is going.

What all are you controlling with these?

 

[NCFJ]

2WD 4WD
High Low range on T case
Front locker
Rear locker

 

[roflbox]

2WD 4WD
High Low range on T case
Front locker
Rear locker

how did you do the cable actuated lockers? custom brackets for the lever activation?

 

[NCFJ]

I've not installed them yet. I bought the mechanical assemblies that replace the electric motors on the axles from a guy here on MUD in the 80 section. The install will require quite a few custom brackets.

 

[Malleus]

Quality Auto Machine in Monroe. Owner’s name is Mike Aldridge. He skimmed the head, installed new seals, re-cut the seats. Guides were fine, so I kept them in. I chose to have him just “tip” the valve stems rather than buy new shims and painstakingly reset all the lashes. Some folks say that tipping the valves is not the best way, because the hardened surface of the valve tip gets ground off. Whatever….Most folks I talked to said that they did theirs the same way I did. I have had no problems. Truck makes 190 psi on every cylinder.

I'll give him a call. I stumbled on B I Auto Machine Shop in Charlotte in South End that does primarily diesel work. They ground the valves and seats when I rebuilt my Kawasaki 19hp from my JD lawn tractor. They said I was welcome back any time, because I cleaned my heads first. And it didn't take both of them to pick them up.

Tipping valve stems is OK, as long as they don't cut more than a few thousandths off. Most valves are case hardened, so the hard part is only 0.030" or so. Given the diameter of the stems, I'd bet they are through hardened, or almost so.

 

[Malleus]

i just use a medium length 14mm socket on a 3/8 ratchet. or a 14mm swivel adapter socket

something like this
View attachment 2908205

just long enough to fit and clear the firewall bump

I'll try that; my 1/2" wouldn't clear.

 

[Malleus]

Quality Auto Machine in Monroe. Owner’s name is Mike Aldridge. He skimmed the head, installed new seals, re-cut the seats. Guides were fine, so I kept them in. I chose to have him just “tip” the valve stems rather than buy new shims and painstakingly reset all the lashes. Some folks say that tipping the valves is not the best way, because the hardened surface of the valve tip gets ground off. Whatever….Most folks I talked to said that they did theirs the same way I did. I have had no problems. Truck makes 190 psi on every cylinder.

Jake Belk just gave me the same recommendation. He's letting me borrow his engine hoist to pull the head, and we were talking about all things Land Cruiser. He said they machined his head and block, when he rebuilt his 2F.

 

[jfz80]

I'll try that; my 1/2" wouldn't clear.

I used the same. Socket on a swivel to get to that back set. Rices we use a short swivel. Steve’s I think we put the swivel on the nut then attached the socket or extension.

 

[Malleus]

When I die, I want to go here...

LandCruiser Eden

 

[Malleus]

I pulled mine with both exhaust manifolds and the lower intake manifold attached. It wasn’t a problem.
View attachment 2908391

Dave, did you replace the spark plug tube seals? I can't find a part number for them. Are the seals part of the tubes? meaning, do you only get them with the plug wires?

 

[roadstr6]

I did replace the tube seals. Part number is 11193-15010. They literally crumbled when I removed the valve cover. I did not price shop for every bit and piece. I contacted Joey at absolutewitsend and got everything I needed from him in one big box. I know I paid more that way, but it sure was easy. For example, Joey sells this kit that includes everything you need to do the valve cover gasket: 80 Series 1FZ Valve Cover Leak Kit - https://absolute-wits-end.com/80-series-1fz-valve-cover-leak-kit/ In addition to the normal HG stuff, I also replaced every single hose (including PHH and PHH neighbor), new SS breeze clamps, heater control valve, plugs, wires, belts, power steering rebuild kit, power steering hoses, fuel filter, EGR delete keychain, exhaust gaskets, distributor O-ring, etc. I sent the injectors off for a much needed cleaning and recalibration. I broke every injector clip upon removal. Joey has those too. He didn't at the time, so I ended up pilfering good ones from other Toyotas at LKQ for .50 each and just re-pinned them onto my harness. In all, my parts and machine work bill was just over $2,500.

 

[Malleus]

I did replace the tube seals. Part number is 11193-15010. They literally crumbled when I removed the valve cover. I did not price shop for every bit and piece. I contacted Joey at absolutewitsend and got everything I needed from him in one big box. I know I paid more that way, but it sure was easy. For example, Joey sells this kit that includes everything you need to do the valve cover gasket: 80 Series 1FZ Valve Cover Leak Kit - https://absolute-wits-end.com/80-series-1fz-valve-cover-leak-kit/ In addition to the normal HG stuff, I also replaced every single hose (including PHH and PHH neighbor), new SS breeze clamps, heater control valve, plugs, wires, belts, power steering rebuild kit, power steering hoses, fuel filter, EGR delete keychain, exhaust gaskets, distributor O-ring, etc. I sent the injectors off for a much needed cleaning and recalibration. I broke every injector clip upon removal. Joey has those too. He didn't at the time, so I ended up pilfering good ones from other Toyotas at LKQ for .50 each and just re-pinned them onto my harness. In all, my parts and machine work bill was just over $2,500.

Dave, thanks for all that info! Now that I have the part number, I saw it immediately (of course - it's even called gasket, spark plug tube).

This is for Charlie's LandCruiser, so I'm just putting it back on the road. With the $500 tow from Boone, I'm hoping it'll be <$1500, all in. Mike quoted me $500 this morning for the shop work; two day turn around.

I am planning on either Jet-Hot or Cerakote the headers, depending on price, so I can use him as a guinea pig. I need to have mine cleaned and coated, and I want to know what I want, before I do it.

 

[Hokie LX]

Cleaning up the 60 which has lived life on a farm and in the mud in order to get the frame clean enough to prep and coat is a total time suck. The leaking PS pump that I inherited that seems to have leaked for ages didn't help my efforts as the entire front driver side was caked with muck. As of now, the frame is stripped of brackets and hoses, scraped of loose mud and grime, and now it's ready for wire brushing. Hoping to knock this out tomorrow along with a good degrease and rinse down and then etching if time allows. Then maybe be able to do the coating Thursday.

Once the chassis is prepped, both axles will come out to get cleaned up. Front will get completely rebuilt with new brakes and knuckles and then POR, and rear will get some cleaning and POR as well.