This would have been cool, last weekend.
TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (11 Viewers)
- Thread starter jfz80
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Malleus
Far west of Siegen
After having the jetta back and driving it for two months I was begining to think something was wrong with it.... then two days ago.... bam. CEL..... everything is as it should be.
Looks like the cam position sensor has gone bad..... again.
Looks like the temp sensor to the ecu has gone bad..... again
Both replaced with OEM the first time..... temp sensor was actually a new design that wasn't supposed to fail. Maybe ill buy the $5 rock auto option.... save me about a bill and will most likely last, or fail to last, just as long. Lol
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
or you could trade up to a '72 Beetle...
This seems pretty damned cool, especially for only $120.
EDIT: Ignore the words in the box below. It actually link to a 40 speedo correction box install.
forum.ih8mud.com
EDIT: Ignore the words in the box below. It actually link to a 40 speedo correction box install.
Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on?
I don't know if it is that simple, I just don't do much welding. Do you mean cut the interior flange flush with the exterior flange? If so, I think I could do that. I was thinking that the entirety of the old flange must be removed from the inside of the downpipe. hmmm, maybe there are two...
forum.ih8mud.com
SFROMAN
SILVER Star
I’m preparation for being down one arm for a month and a half after my shoulder surgery I shifted gears to improving the shop lighting, tool organizing and compressor set up to be able to paint the truck. Or at least get primer on it before my surgery.
Added the 8 foot lights that Eric Johnson used in his shop. They are bad ass and highly recommend them.
Found the plans for this compressed air dryer with auto drain and put it together tonight. Will solder it tomorrow and should be ready when the filters and auto drain get here later this week. Hoping this helps with water issues and let’s me spray my trucks. For now going to use the 30 galling compressor I currently have but plan to upgrade to 220 volt bigger compressor at the end of the year.
Added the 8 foot lights that Eric Johnson used in his shop. They are bad ass and highly recommend them.
Found the plans for this compressed air dryer with auto drain and put it together tonight. Will solder it tomorrow and should be ready when the filters and auto drain get here later this week. Hoping this helps with water issues and let’s me spray my trucks. For now going to use the 30 galling compressor I currently have but plan to upgrade to 220 volt bigger compressor at the end of the year.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
I built a similar copper manifold for the air system this year, made a HUGE difference in the amount of moisture in the system. I was shocked at the amount of water that it removes. My system then has a canister water remover at the blast cabinet, all air goes through that and then out to the air outlets. I also have one more canister at the outlet I use for painting. There is rarely any moisture in that canister at all.
The big difference is the copper manifold. Keep in mind that the canisters remove water, not water vapor so place the copper manifold as close to the compressor as possible to condense that vapor into water. The fist tube, closest to the compressor on my set up is noticeably warmer to the touch than the fare tube where the air enters the system.
The big difference is the copper manifold. Keep in mind that the canisters remove water, not water vapor so place the copper manifold as close to the compressor as possible to condense that vapor into water. The fist tube, closest to the compressor on my set up is noticeably warmer to the touch than the fare tube where the air enters the system.
Changed a failing front CV and trailing arm in the mrs' car this weekend. Pretty easy.
Then worked on moonshine reassembly:
Then body work. Not sure why the skim coat of bondo shows through the epoxy like that, but you can't feel it, and it's concealed perfectly by the paint. Doors get paint later this week.
Then worked on moonshine reassembly:
Then body work. Not sure why the skim coat of bondo shows through the epoxy like that, but you can't feel it, and it's concealed perfectly by the paint. Doors get paint later this week.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
This pretty 55 showed up today for an LS3 Connect & Cruise and a few other items.
Can someone help me build down travel limiting straps and weld on mounting points for the 100? Jumping speed bumps is not nice on the down travel now. 
pic from 200 series dakar truck.
pic from 200 series dakar truck.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
limit straps
You need to figure out your mounting positions and the length from those two points. Mounting them is not complicated.
Limit Straps
Strapworks' Limit Straps for off road vehicles, made from our toughest material, with the highest quality construction.
www.strapworks.com
You need to figure out your mounting positions and the length from those two points. Mounting them is not complicated.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
I'm cross-posting this from the 100 series forum:
Malleus III has a 2000 LX470 (295k miles) with a shifting problem. First gear winds up to the redline, unless you let off the gas, then it shifts from second to O/D normally. Before I go through the entire xmsn troubleshooting list, I'd appreciate any thoughts from anyone who has had this problem and solved it.
Malleus III has a 2000 LX470 (295k miles) with a shifting problem. First gear winds up to the redline, unless you let off the gas, then it shifts from second to O/D normally. Before I go through the entire xmsn troubleshooting list, I'd appreciate any thoughts from anyone who has had this problem and solved it.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
from the 100 series forum:
How to techstream in 5 minutes (or less)
How to techstream in 5 minutes (or less)
After nearly seven months, moonshine has emerged. After all that's changed, the only two things not currently functioning are the pyrometer and the fuel level gauge. I'm fairly sure it's the sensor in both instances. I'm calling that a win.
The root cause of my CV problems with #bmwlife was that all four of the engine side motor mount bracket bolts sheared. You can kinda see the bolt holes in the first pic, with the engine side motor mount bracket front and center.
These broken bolts allowed the engine to move down a bunch while going over bumps, enough to cause the cvs to separate. Lovely.
The major upside is that these aluminum TTY bolts are used with the aluminum bracket, to attach to the magnesium block, is that they prevent galvanic corrosion. This allowed me to thread out every single bolt with a pick, and a pick alone. So very happy about that. These are what was extracted. All but one were broken off below flush with the block.
Time to celebrate.
I figured it would take me hours and hours to extract these. Took 5 minutes once I got to them.
These broken bolts allowed the engine to move down a bunch while going over bumps, enough to cause the cvs to separate. Lovely.
The major upside is that these aluminum TTY bolts are used with the aluminum bracket, to attach to the magnesium block, is that they prevent galvanic corrosion. This allowed me to thread out every single bolt with a pick, and a pick alone. So very happy about that. These are what was extracted. All but one were broken off below flush with the block.
Time to celebrate.
I figured it would take me hours and hours to extract these. Took 5 minutes once I got to them.
ROBsSON
Yeah thats my dad
Threw some paint at it this last weekend and got the 70 series diffs in front and rear once I’m back in town this weekend I’ll get to see how the 4.56 gears feel.
Also going to try to get a small sleeping platform built for the back.
I would start with a drain and fill and then reassess. Do not use pressure of any kind on the 100 tranny.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Sugar's first start up. Heading for exhaust shop Friday.
I love Vroom day!!!!!!!
I love Vroom day!!!!!!!
