TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (5 Viewers)

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Latest project truck 60/80/5.3L/NV4500 It's a roller! Wheelbase has been shortened, rear frame rails flipped, frame, axles and all suspension components media blasted and painted. Wheels are FJ Cruiser steelies 17x7.5, BFG KM2 34x10.5

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Just gonna leave this here. :)

 
The original gray seat covers and seat foam have been worn out on the driver’s side of my 40 for years. I’ve had a set of black replacement seat covers squirreled away for nearly a decade (thanks again @LakeNorman_FJ40) and finally decided to pay my local upholstery guy to install them.

I took this opportunity to sneak in seat heaters off Amazon (thanks @ClemsonCruiser for the recommendation.

Today I mounted the switches in the Tuffy console and wired it up. My youngest and I went for an evening cruise with the windows down and our derrières and lower backs were toasty.

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Sundays are supposed to be a day of worship and rest, but I’ve not done very good about the resting part for a long while.

My wife suggested I set up the hammock I won from Cruiser Gear last year and relax. I grabbed the iPad and began reading @GA Architect’s lengthy build thread for motivation and ideas.

Low and behold in one post he wrote about a vibration noise coming from his t-case shifter and his solution. I’ve been suffering from this same issue for years and have been too lazy and/or intimidated to investigate it.

It turns out there is a zerk fitting I’d never seen in almost 11 years of ownership. I jumped out of the hammock, climbed under the 40 and gave it a good squirt with molly-fortified grease and hit the surrounding parts with WD-40, as Rick suggested. My youngest and I went for a spin later in the afternoon. No noise! Problem solved! Thanks Rick and IH8MUD!

While no wrenches were used, I thought it worth sharing. Below is a pic with the neglected zerk circled in red.
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Not turning a lot of wrench turning right now, but I am putting in hours.

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Didn't get much input on the 100-series tech forum; thought I would ask here... DIY timing belt job gone horribly wrong. I was removing my tensioner bearing pulley and it was WAAAAY over tightened. The bolt had aluminum on it when I pulled it out. Putting it back in, it would never torque :(

Replacing the oil pump (while the Aisin oil pump is only $130) it requires pulling the engine. Is a Helicoil a horrible idea for this application?!?

Two red circles show the part an the bolt hole in the oil pump
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Helicoil is the ideal solution. The threads provided with the Helicoil will be stronger than the original aluminum.

I'd do it without hesitation.
 
Helicoil is the ideal solution. The threads provided with the Helicoil will be stronger than the original aluminum.

I'd do it without hesitation.

I agree. The caveat is the insert has to be done correctly. Take your time.
 
I agree. The caveat is the insert has to be done correctly. Take your time.

I'd agree. If you haven't done one before, I wouldn't make it my first attempt. But, if you are in a pickle (especially w/ "Phone a Friend" not being an option due to Covid-a9) and need to do it now, go slow and watch some YT videos. They aren't difficult, but just tedious in my opinion.
 
IDK, was the oak artisanal?
Ha, pretty much. Wanted something lightweight, inexpensive, and available at my Home Depot this weekend. Plus, I like the old school wooden VW racks. At most it will carry folding chairs and anything wet on trips. I don't plan to bolt a bunch of crap onto it like I'm trying to run in the Dakar Rally. Anything held on by rain gutters (which this is) is always suspect.
 
The original gray seat covers and seat foam have been worn out on the driver’s side of my 40 for years. I’ve had a set of black replacement seat covers squirreled away for nearly a decade (thanks again @LakeNorman_FJ40) and finally decided to pay my local upholstery guy to install them.

I took this opportunity to sneak in seat heaters off Amazon (thanks @ClemsonCruiser for the recommendation.

Today I mounted the switches in the Tuffy console and wired it up. My youngest and I went for an evening cruise with the windows down and our derrières and lower backs were toasty.

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Electric power steering and now seat heaters, I like.
 
60 body on 80 chassis. Suspension and axles totally rebuild. Everything media blasted primed and painted. Ready for a new drive line, 5.3L and NV4500 5 speed to split case with manual locking hubs.

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60 body on 80 chassis. Suspension and axles totally rebuild. Everything media blasted primed and painted. Ready for a new drive line, 5.3L and NV4500 5 speed to split case with manual locking hubs.

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This may be my favorite of your builds, Stan. I love the white and the wheel / tire combo is spot on. Can't wait to see this one play out.
 
After nearly a decade of running a non-stock tire size being unable to rely on my speedometer (a risky move in my strict small town), I finally purchased and installed an adapter. Note: if you’re not careful and the cable slides out of the cluster, this becomes a two person job.

HERE is an old thread on the topic. With inflation, today’s cost for the adapter was $95 and shipping was an additional $11. I placed the order on 4/29/20 and the box arrived an impressive two days later.

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