TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (12 Viewers)

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@fordoford You can just use FIPG on the diff by itself. It will work fine. If you want to use the paper gasket, just order one from the stealership. Either way is acceptable and, as Jon said, using the paper with a light smear of FIPG is the bees knees. There are also a couple of paper gaskets at each end of the axle. Most of the time they remain intact when removed. If you happen to tear one, scrape off the remaining gasket and use a light coat of FIPG in its place. Unlike the diff, these "end" gaskets only hold in grease, not gear oil, so they are not as critical to get absolutely perfect.

Removing the axle shafts is easier with a couple of tools that aren't in the average tool kit. Snap ring pliers are nice, but you can do the same job with needle nose pliers and a screwdriver. It just kicks the frustration level up a bit. The same can be said for the 54mm socket that is used to tighten the axle lock nuts. It's nice to have, but I have done them with channel lock pliers. Again, time and frustration leads to ultimate success. I like to use a couple of small vice grip pliers to mash the rubber brake lines closed to stop the master cylinder from draining while the calipers are off during the operation. Aside from those "special" tools, the rest is just socket and ratchet work.

As Jason said, the diff is heavy, awkward, and a definite finger smasher. Be prepared for that, but you are a healthy young buck. If I can do it, you can do it. No problem. I did the front diff in my 60 last week by myself and it is bigger and heavier than the one in the front of your 80. I have a small hernia now, but I did it. :hillbilly:
 
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Blasted the grill and headlight surrounds.
All black is too much so I did minimal black backed with a dark gunmetal I had mixed.
Center of the door handles will also be black.


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@fordoford You can just use FIPG on the diff by itself. It will work fine. If you want to use the paper gasket, just order one from the stealership. Either way is acceptable and, as Jon said, using the paper with a light smear of FIPG is the bees knees. There are also a couple of paper gaskets at each end of the axle. Most of the time they remain intact when removed. If you happen to tear one, scrape off the remaining gasket and use a light coat of FIPG in its place. Unlike the diff, these "end" gaskets only hold in grease, not gear oil, so they are not as critical to get absolutely perfect.

Removing the axle shafts is easier with a couple of tools that aren't in the average tool kit. Snap ring pliers are nice, but you can do the same job with needle nose pliers and a screwdriver. It just kicks the frustration level up a bit. The same can be said for the 54mm socket that is used to tighten the axle lock nuts. It's nice to have, but I have done them with channel lock pliers. Again, time and frustration leads to ultimate success. I like to use a couple of small vice grip pliers to mash the rubber brake lines closed to stop the master cylinder from draining while the calipers are off during the operation. Aside from those "special" tools, the rest is just socket and ratchet work.

As Jason said, the diff is heavy, awkward, and a definite finger smasher. Be prepared for that, but you are a healthy young buck. If I can do it, you can do it. No problem. I did the front diff in my 60 last week by myself and it is bigger and heavier than the one in the front of your 80. I have a small hernia now, but I did it. :hillbilly:

I should be alright getting it out. Maybe all that lifting weights for football will actually help me out with something for once. Thanks for the heads up on the tools. Now I can mentally prepare to yell at my car for 5 hours
 
@fordoford I sent you a PM. One last thing...LOCK YOUR FRONT DIFF BEFORE YOU PULL THE AXLES OUT!
 
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Found some scrap metal and got to do some welding, gonna see if I cant get it together while I still got the stuff here at work to use.

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Del, part of the beauty of mini trucks is that front fender flare. If you are going to cut the fenders, think about cutting straight up from the flares and another line on top along the body line at the top of the fender. If you make the two side cuts parallel, you can then cut of material following the angle on top until you start getting into the roll of the fender flair. You might get 3" out of it before you hit the flair. Use the thinnest slitting disk you can find. You'll probably have to re locate the light

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This is the way I plan to cut the fenders.
Just below the bumpers parallel to the ground. The tires rub at the very bottom of the fender. I don’t need to cut the radius portion yet.
But if I ever have to I will keep your method in mind. I love the fenders and that would be a good way of keeping them looking somewhat stock.
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Huge wrenching day today.... lol. Mostly worked in the garage. Fixed the hood release and OBDII port on Andrea's focus as both had become loose and were hanging down by the clutch pedal.

Then I restore the headlights as much as I could. Drivers side has a bit of oxidation on the inside of the headlight and didnt turn out as good sadly. So my after picture has to be of the passenger side.

Before and after.

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My 83 Toyota pickup front wheel studs are too short now that I am using the 1/4 inch spacer on my front wheels to clear the brake caliper.

What would be the best way to find longer wheel studs?

My plan is to bring one of my spares and bring it to the parts store and try to find one that is longer but is the same diameter.
 
My 83 Toyota pickup front wheel studs are too short now that I am using the 1/4 inch spacer on my front wheels to clear the brake caliper.

What would be the best way to find longer wheel studs?

My plan is to bring one of my spares and bring it to the parts store and try to find one that is longer but is the same diameter.

How long are the stock ones / ones you have in there now?

Edit - I ask because I might recommend these:


They are 52.5mm long which I ‘think’ are longer then a stock 40/60/mini front stud but am not sure if they longer then what you have in there now. I used these for the front axle I just rebuilt.
 
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I used to get studs all the time at Auto Zone and Oreily's for use on spare tire racks. Both had a section of just wheel studs, in the back at both stores. They'll let you go back and go through them. Match base size and bolt size and pick a length you like.
 
John
Thanks for the link. I have to measure the stock ones first because I have no idea what length they are.


Stan
Yeah I have don’t that before. And that’s what I was planning to do again. I just hope I can find the length I need.

Another option might be to grind down the caliper? And possibly not need the spacer and have to go through the trouble of replacing the wheel studs with longer ones.
 
John
Thanks for the link. I have to measure the stock ones first because I have no idea what length they are.


Stan
Yeah I have don’t that before. And that’s what I was planning to do again. I just hope I can find the length I need.

Another option might be to grind down the caliper? And possibly not need the spacer and have to go through the trouble of replacing the wheel studs with longer ones.

If you need longer then the dormans I posted (which I think might be stock length after all) then these are likely your next option if you want to stay metric - be prepared...they are expensive!


Some folks end up using a std thread pitch stud that’s longer but I’ve never explored that option.
 
Another option might be to grind down the caliper? And possibly not need the spacer and have to go through the trouble of replacing the wheel studs with longer ones.

This is the route I'd go, assuming you don't have to grind too much.
 
If you need longer then the dormans I posted (which I think might be stock length after all) then these are likely your next option if you want to stay metric - be prepared...they are expensive!


Some folks end up using a std thread pitch stud that’s longer but I’ve never explored that option.


dang $8.50 per stud!!! that's crazy.
thanks for the link though.
 
Actually it comes out to 5.something USD...plus shipping from AUS!

Haha. I was at work when I saw the link. I’d don’t even notice it was from Australia. Last time I ordered bolts from Australia, it took a couple of months to get them.
 
Fun as always. Trying to get one cruiser back on the road. New clutch master only to realize the slave mounting bolt had sheared off in the bellhousing allowing a lot of play. Thanks to rice for the bleeding sst and some advice along the way.

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Took longer than I expected. Finally did the u bolt flip on the little truck. The OME U bolts didn’t quite fit the new axle housings.
Had to modify the bump stops and weld them on to the plate.

Now I have to go over to Johnny’s to weld up the new rear shock mounts. My welder ain’t going to cut it.
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Much more clearance now. 12” under the pumpkin 15” to the axle and no more bolts hanging down.
 

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