TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (4 Viewers)

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You have the bead roller in shop? Thats hot.
No sir. I sure wish I did. Those beads you see are on the part of the original floor that was good enough to keep. If you look closely you’ll see that the outer 12” or so are just flat sheet. I did make some dimples in the front pans using some big sockets and my shop press. Nothing spectacular.
 
Almost hate to post after seeing Dave’s work but here was a little Sunday project. Still need to mount to the floor and tweak it some but relatively happy. Tired of having multiple bags and boxes holding all my junk.

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That's backwards from most sliders we see, wherein the top slides out and the inside stays put! Very cool man.
 
That's backwards from most sliders we see, wherein the top slides out and the inside stays put! Very cool man.
Thanks man. definitely a work in progress and I'm sure it'll be adjusted and or changed several times. I wanted to keep it small if that makes sense but the primary purpose for me was to "stash" the recovery gear and be able to get the fridge out easily. I'm going to add another set or slides. yeah they're 100lb slides but another pair would be more gooder. ;)
 
While going over the Bronco this weekend, while I had a spare set of hands, I found a fairly big fuel leak from the throttle shaft on the 4bt. Seal kit ordered... now just need to find some time in the midst of work and other projects. Want to get this thing back up and running soon. Then I can figure out some adjustable seats so Andrea can actually drive this.
Also found the fuel line before the electric lift pump was sucking in air from a tiny leak so I replaced that line.

 
Be careful taking the top cover off. Throttle arm indexing is critical, and the governor spring can be a pita.

Replace the fuel pin follower o-ring while you're in there as well.
 
Bucky update: I blended color matched rattle cans from the local paint store to cover my patch work. Driver’s side is as done as it’s going to be. Working on passenger side next. What’s fun about a project like this is that the truck was so bad that even my piss poor body work is a huge improvement over what It used to look like. My goal is to not pull a single dent, only patch what is absolutely necessary and paint only the areas that I patch. The old paint just has too much character to cover up the scars. Nathan is in love with this rotten old pig by the way.
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Bucky update: I blended color matched rattle cans from the local paint store to cover my patch work. Driver’s side is as done as it’s going to be. Working on passenger side next. What’s fun about a project like this is that the truck was so bad that even my piss poor body work is a huge improvement over what It used to look like. My goal is to not pull a single dent, only patch what is absolutely necessary and paint only the areas that I patch. The old paint just has too much character to cover up the scars. Nathan is in love with this rotten old pig by the way.
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Did you just bring a piece that you cut off with paint still on it to the paint store to have it color matched?
I want to do this With my 40. Just color match the patches until I can repaint the whole thing at a later time.
 
Did you just bring a piece that you cut off with paint still on it to the paint store to have it color matched?
I want to do this With my 40. Just color match the patches until I can repaint the whole thing at a later time.
I took off the gas filler door and had them to match it. Match is just okay. Not great. Good enough for this truck though. The easiest piece to pull off of a 40 for paint match is a kick vent.
 
Be careful taking the top cover off. Throttle arm indexing is critical, and the governor spring can be a pita.

Replace the fuel pin follower o-ring while you're in there as well.

Fo Sho

all the top seals that I can get to there will be replaced, 3200 spring etc.....

I thought about putting in the fuel pin I had laying around from a previous project but am not going to do it right now. This thing most likely weighs 3000lbs soaking wet and is fine for power.... that will only increase breakages. I think ultimately I may want to get around 300 ft.lbs and get a mean turbo whistle but this isn't going to tow anything over a 2000 lbs travel trailer ever.


One a side note I found out the injection pump on the 4bt and the rover 200tdi are virtually identical.
 
? Everything I've ever seen in print a 4bt is 265 from Cummins. This is bone stock, fuel screw wont be touched until a pyro is installed.

But if for some reason I'm remembering the numbers wrong and it does have 300 from cummins then bully for me and I'm not going to change anything but the spring. :)
 
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The center of the dash on my first gen is broken. I have one that is not broken but decided to make this one work.
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I want to install 2 power points.
3 switches for the ARB lockers and compressor
Then I remembered I bought a $25 radio at Walmart when I first bought the truck and decided to try to fit in as well

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This is the final layout.
I still need to cut it and glue the two pieces together but it will have to wait a few days until after my surgery tomorrow.
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I am using a 24”x 12”x 1/4” thick piece of ABS plastic
I ordered it off amazon for $7.
I am going to try to use PVC glue to glue them together. If that doesn’t work I will use JB weld or liquid nail. Then spray bomb it if needed.
I ordered the 1/4” thickness so it will hopefully reinforce the stock piece which are super flimsy.
That’s why I am testing it on this one since it’s already broken.
 
? Everything I've ever seen in print a 4bt is 265 from Cummins. This is bone stock, fuel screw wont be touched until a pyro is installed.

I've seen engine dyno videos putting the stock torque output real close to, if not a touch over, 300ft/lbs. This can change with CPL, to some degree, but 300ft/lbs is the commonly accepted number.

Put a pyro on and start playing with that fuel screw. You can double the power output on stock injectors without much effort. Once you realize out how much power is left in that engine, you'll kick yourself for not turning it up sooner.
 
Hmm I'd say those have already had the fuel screw turned up although Cummins did make a few variants that had a bit more power outside of the bread truck vans so who knows. Ill have to look in to that more now. Thanks for the info, got any links for that for me? Everytome I Google stock 4bt power I get 260-275 with all the official stuff hitting 265. Edit: I did see one hit a little over 310 on a dyno sheet in a thread but that was the 130HP version not the 105 that I have. Either way no biggie dont really care if it currently has 265 or 300. 300 was just a nice round number I thought I'd aim for without going crazy if if it has all that already then good and all I need is the spring and an intercooler. Oh and finish the exhaust LMAO

No need for more power on it. This is currently a light weight wheeler. Its had the crap beat out of it on stock sized axles and never missed a beat in the 10 plus years the 4bt has been in there.

Huge power is not currently needed unless I want to start breaking things or move to one tons.

Neither tickles my fancy right now. Mostly because I dont have the time for it or the near 5 k I'd need to get one tons, lock them and get the one ton radius arms for the front. At the same time move up to much larger tires than the 35s on it and end up similar to this

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It's in the pipeline though and so is new body, new OD trans, better t-case but not right now. New tires, repairing the pump, por15 the frame and axles and adding hydroboost is all I'm planning in the short term now. :cheers:

Oh and install the boost gauge and a pyro at the same time just so I now what's going on.
And the seats and brackets.... If I get this thing running and Andrea can't drive it still she will do very mean things to me... LMAO
 
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Not vehicle wrenching...but, replaced the carb, fuel filter, air filter and spark plugs in my Husqvarna string trimmer and blower. Trimmer is maybe 12 years old and the blower 6ish and while they start great, each have gradually wanted to bog down when under full throttle. Not always but more often then not.

Figured I could spend 50 bucs for oem parts and hopefully cure my issues or 400 for new replacements.

Holy crap they both run like new again!!
 
Let's play a game.

These are the lower knuckle studs on the passenger side. I was finishing up a knuckle rebuild. Guess where the other part of that stud is?

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I'm just glad this didn't happen on trail.
 
Firat time in a long time I've been left stranded but the focus did it to me on Tuesday.

Messed around traced it to the ignition switch and its good to go now.

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