TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter jfz80
- Start date
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droool Time to chop up those fenders buddy.
SFROMAN
SILVER Star
Yeah, it’s the reason I want to come over tonight. Need some advice on where to chop, chop.
ack - are they rusty? such a cool truck - couldn't you chop a rusty one? 
LOL
LOL
Well looking like a diff leak is going to have to turn into an axle rebuild. Cleaned everything off a couple days ago and changed the oil and torqued it all to spec and I still have a consistent leak. It is less than before but it's leaking about a half a cup a day probably.
From what I know there's no other way to change out that gasket or stop a leak through the space between the housing and the 3rd other than tearing into the whole axle. Am I right on that?
From what I know there's no other way to change out that gasket or stop a leak through the space between the housing and the 3rd other than tearing into the whole axle. Am I right on that?
Front or rear?
SFROMAN
SILVER Star
ack - are they rusty? such a cool truck - couldn't you chop a rusty one?
The section “few inches” being cut from the bed is pretty rusty is rusty enough that I don’t feel bad cutting that section out.
Front
Sadly yep you have to pull the birfs out a bit to get the 3rd out so may as well while you are in there.
about seafoam...…. many moons ago when I worked for Toyota we did actually dump liquid Schwartz (I think it was b&g k44??) slowly into a running carb till the warm engine choked out. let it sit for half an hour to dissolve the shmeg and then crank it up and drive it down the highwat to "blow it out"..... way back in 1990 HTH
I'm actually looking forward to finally having a bigger job to do on my car, but I just need to find the time to do it
lumbee1
Native American
Here you go:
Knuckle Rebuild Kit - 80 Series - Sale Price $115.00
Toyota solid front axle knuckle rebuild kits, one required per axle. Includes seals, gaskets, felt/rubber wipers, wiper backing plates, lock washers and Koyo trunnion/knuckle bearings. Replacement shims are not required on 80 Series axles. One required per vehicle.
(Fits 1/1990-1/1998 80/81 Series & LX450)
Part# FA9097
FA9097 Knuckle Rebuild Kit W/Wheel Bearings
Includes the FA9097 components plus wheel bearings. One required per vehicle. Please choose desired brand of bearing.
With Timken Wheel Bearings - $185.00
(Fits 1/1990-1/1998 80/81 Series & LX450)
Part# FA9097TWB
With Koyo Wheel Bearings - $205.00
(Fits 1/1990-1/1998 80/81 Series & LX450)
Part# FA9097KWB
@fordoford If you want to cheap out and do this quick, get yourself a tube of FIPG for the diff and to seal the drive flanges just in case the gaskets tear. If your knuckles were done by Trollhole within a couple of years and if they are not leaky, I would seriously consider doing the quick and dirty deal. Just pull the flanges, calipers, outer bearings, hubs and rotors and pull the birfs out just enough to slide them out of the diff housing. Then pull the diff and re-seal. Re-install everything. It will cost you $5 and budget most of a day of time doing it yourself for the first time. If you need some help, let me know.
If that's an option I think that's probably the route I'll go. I'm fine rebuilding the axles but if there's a cheaper alternative than that would probably be better. So does the FIPG go in place of the paper seal in between the 3rd and the housing or does it go somewhere else? I'm still trying to figure out how these axles work
Went out to start my 80 today and nothing... dead. I had just driven it and there's no way the battery could have been dead without at least clicking the starter. Popped the hood and while the battery terminals *looked* tight, the negative spun pretty easy and I immediately heard the key alert in the cab. The terminal was all the way tight so I put a shim in and when I did, it broke the terminal pretty easily... Just picked this up from Advance and 'Back in Business'
jfz80
Cruisin’
- Thread starter
- #4,218
@fordoford
Yes. FIPG replaces the paper gasket between the third member and axle housing. As mentioned snug up the nuts then let cure overnight and then torque to spec. And probably worth using the good Toyota black gasket here. Cautions the third member is heavy and awkward to get in place
Yes. FIPG replaces the paper gasket between the third member and axle housing. As mentioned snug up the nuts then let cure overnight and then torque to spec. And probably worth using the good Toyota black gasket here. Cautions the third member is heavy and awkward to get in place
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
In a perfect world you'd be able to clean/scrap the old gasket off both flanges/surfaces then apply just a smear of FIPG (I like the orange Toyota stuff) to both side of the paper gasket. Technically one could use only FIPG as both surfaces are machined BUT you would want to verify each surfaces are still FLAT. You still want to check the flatness and file down any high spots even if using a paper gasket but the gasket gives you a bit of error coverage.
So do I need to use a gasket or am I good with just the FIPG? I don't want to ask too many questions but I would rather get this right the first time than have another leaky diff.
