TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (9 Viewers)

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Thanks!! Don't be scared of setting up a diff, it just takes patience. There are plenty of guides showing how to do it correctly :D

The 13 bolt shave does not require machining the ring gear, just cutting off the bottom. If you find a drum brake 14 bolt not the newer ribbed disk brake 14 bolt, you can do the "13 bolt" mod without welding, just a sawzall.

Gotcha... yeah I have an older 14 bolt sitting around and a flat top knuckle D44 (supposed to be the strongest of the Chevy D44 fronts) front which i'm most likely going to ditch when a D60 pops up for the right price.

I'd seen quite a lot of 13B conversions where they had to shave the ring gear down but looking back now they did take off more material so I guess it depends on how much you cut off as I just looked up some that also never shaved the gear. Learn something new every day there.

Good to know about not needing to weld as while that is something I need to and want to learn I know don't really have the time or place for a welder in the city and can't really justify buying one to leave with family that I may not see for months at a time. LOL.

You are right about the drain plug and was wondering why yours had one. Didn't realize your 14B was out of a newer chevy. So that means you got rid of the 14BFF you pulled from the CUCV and got a newer one for a higher gear set? 3.73?
 
You are right about the drain plug and was wondering why yours had one. Didn't realize your 14B was out of a newer chevy. So that means you got rid of the 14BFF you pulled from the CUCV and got a newer one for a higher gear set? 3.73?

When I did the 14 bolt install over three years ago I picked a newer 14b up (technically an AAM 10.5) to get factory disk brakes. I've read of those weld-on disk brake brackets, even the bolt-on ones, cracking and failing, so I wanted disk brakes. This newer axle came with 4.10s and the LSD/lockup carrier that is infamous for blowing up, so I swapped in a 3.73 open gear set out of an older drum brake 14 bolt I also had.
 
Oh the Gov Bomb... yeah fine for light use but in an off roading rig like yours that thing wouldn't last long.

Yeah i'm still unsure of what to do on the brake front... the drums work so well on it but weigh a friggen ton. The discs with the E-brake are underpowered for this application. Swapping in the 1 ton front discs works amazingly well but has no parking brake.... so I may wait till I can do a T-case brake before I change the drums out.
 
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I'm not going to discuss the power of the factory AAM10.5 disks, but I will say it's hard to beat factory disks with integrated e-brakes.
 
A little axle housing TLC. Almost all paint was gone on this axle.

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It's axle week here at ONSC. Show us your latest axle porn
 
Some guys prefer IFS - if you like a smaller tighter axle . . .


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:rimshot:
 
I have a 1000watt inverter that I want to hard wire into the rear cargo area. It came with 6awg leads. I want to upsize the wire but am having trouble finding the lugs. They look to be proprietary but I wanted to see if anyone may have seen something that would work
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@pkniland Those connectors don't inspire much confidence. If you are unable to change to a ring terminal style, I'd suggest securing each wire to a solid point a couple inches from the connection (think stapling 12/2 to the studs). Sure would suck for the set screws to let loose and have a flapping hot wire.
 
@pkniland Those connectors don't inspire much confidence. If you are unable to change to a ring terminal style, I'd suggest securing each wire to a solid point a couple inches from the connection (think stapling 12/2 to the studs). Sure would suck for the set screws to let loose and have a flapping hot wire.

Thats a good idea, thanks John. I don't really need 1000 watts for my intended use so I will most likely bet a lower power inverter with ring terminals.
 
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Well done @Rice. I think that is the one thing I did not google.
 
Since I'm going the pneumatic switch route I only needed the compressor and switch, not the locker switches, so I unloomed the ARB compressor and switch harnesses, cut out the extra wires and re-loomed it so I only had the battery connection, pressure switch, compressor motor connection and compressor on/off switch. Came out pretty nice!! Put a wye in to feed the switches off of one port on the compressor so that I can put an air tool on the other port in case of emergency fill-ups. Tested and everything works perfectly :grinpimp:

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You'll get a kick out of this :lol:

Wanted to put the compressor switch in the blank to the right of the steering column where the H4 switch would go if it were an HJ61 or FJ62. The ARB compressor switch is a carling switch so I needed to grind/file away the plastic so that the carling switch would seat, no big deal. Painted it pink to match my diff cover but was getting impatient and wanted to be finished, so I tried to dry it faster with a plumbers torch. Of course it lit on fire, but I managed to put it out before the part completely melted so I could form it back to rough shape. Another quick file later and we're good :lol:

EDIT: To clarify, that little bezel was out of the dash on the ground to paint when I set it on fire, so no risk of setting moonshine on fire.

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On to the next project!!!
 
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Gas Monkey garage couldnt have done it any better. LOL
 
She lives!! After a year of sitting and several bleeds of the injectors the ol Jetta is on the road again! Still have a couple things to work on but just good to get her fired up after a year of being parked. Big thanks to @jfz80 for the help and @GLTHFJ60 for some solid diesel advice.

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She lives!! After a year of sitting and several bleeds of the injectors the ol Jetta is on the road again! Still have a couple things to work on but just good to get her fired up after a year of being parked. Big thanks to @jfz80 for the help and @GLTHFJ60 for some solid diesel advice.

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AWESOME. Good thing you tried that on a "warm" day.
 

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