TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (3 Viewers)

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Well, I could not figure out the carb issue and although I could get it to start for a few seconds at a time I just could not keep the truck running.
I quit when I realized the spring that opens my garage door snapped in half so even if I could have got the truck running I am now not able to get it out of the garage until I get the spring replaced.
I tried lifting the door and there is no way I can lift it without spring tension.
 
I am thinking about getting the Trail Gear sliders....what would be a normal price to get someone to weld them onto my 80?

Not a flat rate type project imho, but you should ask business owners like @Trollhole to get an idea.
 
Well, I could not figure out the carb issue and although I could get it to start for a few seconds at a time I just could not keep the truck running.
I quit when I realized the spring that opens my garage door snapped in half so even if I could have got the truck running I am now not able to get it out of the garage until I get the spring replaced.
I tried lifting the door and there is no way I can lift it without spring tension.

When it rains it pours.

Rebuilding a carb isn't that hard. Have a mini-hamom to rebuild the carb and get that thing running!
 
Any "leads" on a good place to take a drive shaft for a Freightliner chassis diesel pusher 6BT? Its about a foot and a half long and needs both u joints swapped due to what appears to be wear. These have some keepers that are either welded or something.

Looks a little like this. Can take a pic in the morning, but its about the same.

2253948_600.jpg
 
I am thinking about getting the Trail Gear sliders....what would be a normal price to get someone to weld them onto my 80?

I was quoted 2 hours at $85/hour to do my Tundra by a place in Cary. I was expecting around $200.
 
Yeah when it rains it pours that's for sure was thinking about purchasing a fuel injection system any thoughts?
IMG_2297.PNG
When it rains it pours.

Rebuilding a carb isn't that hard. Have a mini-hamom to rebuild the carb and get that thing running!
 
Any "leads" on a good place to take a drive shaft for a Freightliner chassis diesel pusher 6BT? Its about a foot and a half long and needs both u joints swapped due to what appears to be wear. These have some keepers that are either welded or something.

Looks a little like this. Can take a pic in the morning, but its about the same.

View attachment 1489408

Triangle Driveshaft is the only one around here I know of. Who did you use @SFROMAN ?

Yeah when it rains it pours that's for sure was thinking about purchasing a fuel injection system any thoughts?View attachment 1489418

No thoughts, I've never installed one, or that specific kit, before. It should run better with fuel injection but it's definitely more complicated.
 
Anyone have some 17mm x 11mm x 1.5mm thick copper crush washers in RDU, or know anyone who stocks them? I need 8, can't find them except online.
 
Anyone have some 17mm x 11mm x 1.5mm thick copper crush washers in RDU, or know anyone who stocks them? I need 8, can't find them except online.

Drain plug crush washers?

I don't have 8 but could scrounge up a handful. Try Toyota?
 
Banjo bolt on the brake lines. None of the local Toyota dealers stock them.

Gotcha. Sorry boss.

Check the HELP section in your local auto parts store. They have little boxes of copper/aluminum washers that may work. Other than that, you're going to have to order.
 
advanceauto part (carquest)has a major depot off of (millbrook and departure). i have had good luck with them in the part
 
Welp, disregard - seems the size I need is commonly used on some European cars' oil drain plugs, so problem solved.
 
Triangle Driveshaft is the only one around here I know of. Who did you use @SFROMAN ?

:)

We ended up finding these big u-joints at Napa and "pressing" them in and out easily with a very small sledge hammer. Amazing how easy it was, to be honest. The shaft is literally 1.4' long, so gonna test it without getting it re-balanced.


20170703_133201.jpg
 
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We ended up finding these big u-joints at Napa and "pressing" them in and out easily with a very small sledge hammer. Amazing how easy it was, to be honest. The shaft is literally 1.4' long, so gonna test it without getting it re-balanced.


View attachment 1489818

If you just replace the joints, you typically do not need to have it rebalanced. As long as you kept the driveshaft in phase, I'm sure it'll be fine.

Nice work!
 
I am thinking about getting the Trail Gear sliders....what would be a normal price to get someone to weld them onto my 80?

don't think it will be tooo expensive... there is always the HAMOM route though.
 
Garage door fixed.

Got the first gen pup started. I thought I was good. Then after about 4 min it died on me and I could not get it to start again.

Went back to only starting if I spray it with the starter fluid spray. But otherwise it won't stay running.
 
The latest swap is up and running! yeah yeah you want video. Ran a little hotter than I like so I added a heater bypass valve. This system works better with constant flow across the heater ports. A U hose is available to completely bypass the heater core(s) but I for one am not telling my customer they have to swap hoses twice a year. This valve comes with a vacuum activator, I removed it and there is a small lever on the underside of the valve that can be moved at the owners discretion.

In regard to the swap itself, WOW!!! 430 HP and 425 ft of torque makes for a very perky FJ62. I have no doubt that this truck will lite up the tires without hesitation and the thought of an FJ62 that can get out of shape and out from under you is amazing. Scary power in a leaf sprung 3 ton truck. Totally different truck.

19657013_1576877059009846_8885496647143005937_n.jpg
 
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I Researched a little on YouTube and was able to do a few adjustments on the carb.

It drove out of the garage on its own power. Very rough and there are quite a few adjustments to make but it drove.

Still won't stay running after a few minutes.

But I am still happy.
 

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