Sounds like a good plan. And the hole is still where you need it for the turn signal vent if a scoop doesn't work 
TurboClunker (a.k.a. cheap-ass slaps a turbo on his LX)
- Thread starter Heckraiser
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
alia176
SILVER Star
I now have a larger appreciation for why folks want a manifold that places the turbo lower inside the engine compartment. If there's a way to mount an oven around that beast, you maybe onto something!!!!
- Thread starter
- #383
Got a mold made for the hood scoop last week before we ran out of time, so scoop will come later. We decided the most effective hood scoop would be a shaker style (through the hood) that mounts directly onto the IC. Gonna look a little more ghetto (or "racecar" depending on your frame of mind) than I was hoping for, but my buddy says there are some issues attaching CF to steel body parts due to heat expansion at different rates (CF would probably eventually crack). Shaker style should cool more effectively anyway, and easier to make.
New problem: oil return line has sprung a MASSIVE leak where it joins the upper oil pan. Not sure if the failure lies with my tapped threads or the AN fittings themselves since they are under more tension than they should be due to the line being a little short. Gonna have to figure that out. The passenger side frame rail was litterally sprayed with oil, dripping down the radius arms, etc. Crazy. Went through two quarts just driving home 1.5 hours from winter park
One step forward, two steps back.
New problem: oil return line has sprung a MASSIVE leak where it joins the upper oil pan. Not sure if the failure lies with my tapped threads or the AN fittings themselves since they are under more tension than they should be due to the line being a little short. Gonna have to figure that out. The passenger side frame rail was litterally sprayed with oil, dripping down the radius arms, etc. Crazy. Went through two quarts just driving home 1.5 hours from winter park
One step forward, two steps back.
I like the shaker concept, should be pretty sweet. Sorry about the new issues that pop up, if I wasn't 1200 miles away I'd offer to help. Keep up the good work!
FastCarGuy
SILVER Star
You might be experiencing too much crankcase pressure, caused by the turbo increasing the pressure (and in my case) blowing back through the PCV. @scottryana explained that one to me. In my case the pressure pushed around the oil return line same as yours, and even got strong enough to push the dipstick out a couple inches...oil everywhere
how do you fix that?You might be experiencing too much crankcase pressure, caused by the turbo increasing the pressure (and in my case) blowing back through the PCV. @scottryana explained that one to me. In my case the pressure pushed around the oil return line same as yours, and even got strong enough to push the dipstick out a couple inches...oil everywhere
FastCarGuy
SILVER Star
Going to replace the PCV as well as install a catch can. Probably install an additional check valve just for good measure. Then need to find out how to get constant source of vacuum for when engine is under sustained turbo pressure.
- Thread starter
- #388
You might be experiencing too much crankcase pressure, caused by the turbo increasing the pressure (and in my case) blowing back through the PCV. @scottryana explained that one to me. In my case the pressure pushed around the oil return line same as yours, and even got strong enough to push the dipstick out a couple inches...oil everywhere
There's an idea. I did notice it looked like oil was trying to squeeze it's way out of the oil fill cap (new smudge appeared this weekend), so that would point to that theory as well. I replaced my PCV about 10k ago, so i assume it is still good. How did you plumb up the PCV line? Mine goes to the intake pre-turbo, so it should only be seeing vacuum. I bought a catch can, but I haven't installed it yet. Last time I yanked the hose coming from the PCV, there was no oil in it, but I should check again.
:edit: By the way, I assume that means yours is up and running? Looking forward to some completed pics
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #389
catch can on, that was easy Anybody feel free to chime in on my line routing, the catch can is installed in line between the PCV and the intake tube pre-turbo (brass fitting visible in this pic). I just kind of guessed that's the way it should go together.
You can see the oily mess on my valve cover. Some of this was due to pouring from a big jug without a funnel, but I think there must be some oil coming out of the cap too. Never noticed this before, but the oil cap is not original toyota.
Anybody feel free to chime in on my line routing, the catch can is installed in line between the PCV and the intake tube pre-turbo (brass fitting visible in this pic). I just kind of guessed that's the way it should go together.You can see the oily mess on my valve cover. Some of this was due to pouring from a big jug without a funnel, but I think there must be some oil coming out of the cap too. Never noticed this before, but the oil cap is not original toyota.
FastCarGuy
SILVER Star
I completely overlooked re-plumbing the PCV. I plan on doing what you did, only with the catch-can as the only place I can plumb to is before the MAF so don't want to chance any oil getting onto the MAF sensors. Also, I'm now thinking maybe using a 3/8" line to allow more flow.
you can also google "exhaust crankcase evacuation kit". this is what a lot of supra and high horse cars in general use to help with vents. my other project is a 650hp (hopefully 700hp before long) evolution 8. even with a catch can it still blows out the dip stick tube. (40+psi on e85 will do that). this is my next option and its nice to not have to empty the catchcan.
Careful with this system, it uses exhaust gas venturi in the exhaust tubes to create the suction to evacuate the crank vapors. This type of setup is not to be used with catalytic converters or mufflers as the back pressure inhibits the venturi. If you do try it put it down stream of the cats and the O2 sensors, but the further down the exhaust the less effective it will be. This system was attempted by a guy on here with cats and mufflers and ended up blowing the seals out on the engine.
Very big difference between 6-8psi on a large PCV hole like the Land Cruisers and 40+psi on an Evo.
In my system I literally remove the PCV valve completely from the system, weld an -10AN fitting to the valve cover and run -10 lines for PCV and CC to a catch can, zero issue on the Land Cruiser up to 19psi.
Very big difference between 6-8psi on a large PCV hole like the Land Cruisers and 40+psi on an Evo.
In my system I literally remove the PCV valve completely from the system, weld an -10AN fitting to the valve cover and run -10 lines for PCV and CC to a catch can, zero issue on the Land Cruiser up to 19psi.
Last edited:
I guess I read over that, I just assumed anyone that would run a turbo would do so without the cat. If it's not having issues at 19psi, by suggestion would be overkill.
- Thread starter
- #394
Ryan, so if I understand your crankcase ventilation scheme, both the breather hole and the pcv hole run to and terminate at a catch can, correct? Is it a ventilated catch can (like with the little filter on top?) My can will let air out if you blow in one port and cover the other... enough for me to breathe through, with some extra exertion, not quite breathing freely. I don't know if that's enough to vent the pressure in the engine.
I don't think I can pass Colorado emissions with a removed pcv, but do you think it would be a good setup to the pcv hose through a catch can to the intake (pretty much my current setup) and then put one of those little filters on the breather hole?
Or run both the breather and the pcv into a catch can?
I'm definitely seeing evidence of too much pressure in the engine (oil coming out of places it didn't come out before).
I don't think I can pass Colorado emissions with a removed pcv, but do you think it would be a good setup to the pcv hose through a catch can to the intake (pretty much my current setup) and then put one of those little filters on the breather hole?
Or run both the breather and the pcv into a catch can?
I'm definitely seeing evidence of too much pressure in the engine (oil coming out of places it didn't come out before).
There are two lines on your valve cover, one is the PCV the other is the CC ventilation, both of these will need to be routed out of the intake tract after the turbo or you will be pressurizing the crankcase and you will see blow by pass the rings, you will see the dipstick pushed out, seals, etc. You have a few ways to do this.
1st and most legal way is going to be from the top of the valve cover, to a sealed catch can with two inlets and an outlet that you route pre-turbo. This for the most part will give the indication that most of the vapors are going back through the engine and being burnt/catalyst/trapped, well except when the blow off valve opens if it is blowing off to atmosphere, if it is recirculating back into the intake you should be fine.
2nd run everything to a ventilated can, don't worry too much about drawing vacuum. The pressure goes out the top of the valve cover to the catch can, hopefully the oil gets caught in the catch can and the air goes out the vent. You could still have a little oily blow by around the filtered vent on the catch can, I do but it isn't too bad.
3rd skip the catch can completely, run both lines straight into the intact tract pre-turbo, let the oil and combustion vapors go through the turbo and intercooler on their way back into the engine..... I DO NOT recommend this. Some guys do it, but you end up with an oil slick through out your intake tract and the oil coating the inside of the intercooler impacts heat exchange.
1st and most legal way is going to be from the top of the valve cover, to a sealed catch can with two inlets and an outlet that you route pre-turbo. This for the most part will give the indication that most of the vapors are going back through the engine and being burnt/catalyst/trapped, well except when the blow off valve opens if it is blowing off to atmosphere, if it is recirculating back into the intake you should be fine.
2nd run everything to a ventilated can, don't worry too much about drawing vacuum. The pressure goes out the top of the valve cover to the catch can, hopefully the oil gets caught in the catch can and the air goes out the vent. You could still have a little oily blow by around the filtered vent on the catch can, I do but it isn't too bad.
3rd skip the catch can completely, run both lines straight into the intact tract pre-turbo, let the oil and combustion vapors go through the turbo and intercooler on their way back into the engine..... I DO NOT recommend this. Some guys do it, but you end up with an oil slick through out your intake tract and the oil coating the inside of the intercooler impacts heat exchange.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #396
Thanks! I'm liking option one--the less emissions trouble the better.
OK, follow up question, and you may not know the answer to this without dissecting the can: I've got a cheapo can like the one pictured. Only two ports. Do you think it would be safe to tap a hole in it to add a 3rd port to go to the intake? If I bugger it up, I guess it's only $15 down the drain Or do you think it's worth investing in a can that is built with three ports?
OK, follow up question, and you may not know the answer to this without dissecting the can: I've got a cheapo can like the one pictured. Only two ports. Do you think it would be safe to tap a hole in it to add a 3rd port to go to the intake? If I bugger it up, I guess it's only $15 down the drain
Or do you think it's worth investing in a can that is built with three ports?
Take this with a grain of salt since I am not familiar with that can, but if the top ports are labeled in/out, just Y- the PCV and CC lines to the IN and take the out to Pre-Turbo. If the construction is for in/out, you don't want to run 2 in's.
Thanks! I'm liking option one--the less emissions trouble the better.
OK, follow up question, and you may not know the answer to this without dissecting the can: I've got a cheapo can like the one pictured. Only two ports. Do you think it would be safe to tap a hole in it to add a 3rd port to go to the intake? If I bugger it up, I guess it's only $15 down the drain
That can doesn't have an in/out or baffling. I bought the exact same one for my cruiser and it's just 2 holes in the top with a nipple covering each one. Mine also leaks like a sieve and both Allen head screws holding the nipples on have stripped out of the aluminum. I'd say you will be very lucky to tap it and get anything to thread into it with any strength, the aluminum is pretty thin.
@scottryana I had my pcv plumbed to the intake before the turbo and just had a little filter on the cc port. I like your setup with both going to a vented can. I was always told you needed vacuum on the pcv side to vent the crankcase properly and have never had any real issues running it that way so never bothered researching anything about it. I'm going to make up a new can in the next week and give it a try.
@scottryana I had my pcv plumbed to the intake before the turbo and just had a little filter on the cc port. I like your setup with both going to a vented can. I was always told you needed vacuum on the pcv side to vent the crankcase properly and have never had any real issues running it that way so never bothered researching anything about it. I'm going to make up a new can in the next week and give it a try.
Take a look at mishimoto products, they make a pretty trick catch can setup.
- Thread starter
- #400
Thanks both for the info 
