TurboClunker (a.k.a. cheap-ass slaps a turbo on his LX)

[Heckraiser]

Got a lot done today. Sealed the oil return line so it should definitely not leak anymore, clocked the center housing away from the manifold a little bit to keep the oil return a little cooler (was pretty much touching the manifold), got the downpipe wrapped and painted again, and all bolted up using copper gasket maker in addition to the gaskets. re-routed charge pipe so it doesn't come in contact with the turbine housing, heat wrapped said charge pipe for good measure, re-worked intake since my BOV recirculation hose is now going to route towards the passenger side. Didn't quite get finished up, but a lot of progress!

New charge pipe routing:

Intake (plugged old recirc fitting, moved to other side)

Still to do:

-get a longer section of hose for BOV recirculation
-make heat shield for front side of manifold
-poke some holes in the hood

 

[Heckraiser]

Played with the louvers a little bit.

This is how they would go if I go blinker duct route:

This is how they will go if I go hood scoop route (just one on the hot side.. might order a mirrored version for passenger side). The hot zone is basically right where the windshield sprayer is:

 

[Rivman1243]

I've been really liking the look of these hood vents on my dad's 78 brat

 

[Rivman1243]

Some more pictures

 

[scottryana]

I think blinker duct has the potential to work really well. Cool air in from the front of the car, up through the intercooler and scavenged out the hood from the air flowing over the vents.

The hood scoop always has me scratching my head. It works great if it's like a shaker hood going directly into the engine but as a cooling method, you're trying to force air into an area that already has air being forced into it through the "ram air" effect of the grill and the engine fan. Your system is a little different since your IC isn't on top of your engine but for Subaru guys looking to make power that is one of the very first things they change.

Played with the louvers a little bit.

This is how they would go if I go blinker duct route:

View attachment 1306067

This is how they will go if I go hood scoop route (just one on the hot side.. might order a mirrored version for passenger side). The hot zone is basically right where the windshield sprayer is:
View attachment 1306070

 

[canman]

Not that you can use this this, but I thought I would throw in these pics from a 2016 79 Series from someone selling the front clip. It might give you some ideas.

View attachment 1306232

View attachment 1306233

 

[Heckraiser]

wow, is that a TRD pro brat? Full body shot? I've always loved old school japanese. My parents had a 79/80ish GL when I was a kid.

 

[Grim Reaper]

You lost me at fluid dynamics course...One of hardest courses I had in engineering. Common sense will get you pretty far, but when it comes to airflow smooth transitions are key. Avoid abrupt changes in direction, but that usually applies to systems where there is a power input efficiency concern. Doubt it is an issue here. My 05 Legacy GT has a ducted intercooler mounted right on top of the engine. That set-up works, but obviously isn't optimal. I had something similar on my 87 Shelby Charger with a Mopar intercooler kit. It was supposed to be a 25 hp increase to the stk non-turbo 2.2 which was rated I think around 145hp. Everything in life is a comprise.

People miss this little tidbit About that location. The air is being pulled through the intercooler more so then being pushed.
Under engine trays, air dams inner fender liners all seal the engine bay to the radiator. As your travel down the road the forward tray and even a couple inch air damn create a low pressure zone under the hood from the damn and the effect of traveling over the pavement it and suck the air through the radiator and in the case of Subaru's the top mounted IC. In nascar they tape the grill taking advantage of that low pressure zone to suck the car down for more traction.

In the late sixties and early seventies it was not uncommon to see a small air damn under muscle cars below the radiator to help pull air through the radiator at highway speeds.

Lifted LC the ground effect will be minimal I thought I would throw that out there to get you thinking a little.

 

[Rivman1243]

wow, is that a TRD pro brat? Full body shot? I've always loved old school japanese. My parents had a 79/80ish GL when I was a kid.

These are the only pics of it I could find on my phone. I'll take a few later today.

 

[Rivman1243]

I really like how it double posted the pictures

 

[FastCarGuy]

Well...at least he's recycling.

 

[Heckraiser]

Buttoned up. All that heat wrap is smoking like the dickens! Pulled over to check under the hood and there were some very concerned-looking bystanders. Seems to be running much happier and I can really hear the turbo spool now that the exhaust is patched up.

 

[FastCarGuy]

Congrats!

 

[Rivman1243]

Looking good!

 

[FastCarGuy]

Still time to take your out like she wanted!

 

[canman]

Excellent. That looks practically stock.

 

[canman]

People miss this little tidbit About that location. The air is being pulled through the intercooler more so then being pushed.
Under engine trays, air dams inner fender liners all seal the engine bay to the radiator. As your travel down the road the forward tray and even a couple inch air damn create a low pressure zone under the hood from the damn and the effect of traveling over the pavement it and suck the air through the radiator and in the case of Subaru's the top mounted IC. In nascar they tape the grill taking advantage of that low pressure zone to suck the car down for more traction.

In the late sixties and early seventies it was not uncommon to see a small air damn under muscle cars below the radiator to help pull air through the radiator at highway speeds.

Lifted LC the ground effect will be minimal I thought I would throw that out there to get you thinking a little.

Interesting tidbit. Reminds me of the cowl induction on the Chevelle SS which used the high pressure air built up in front of the windshield to force air into the air cleaner.

 

[Heckraiser]

Well, I guess it's official, I will be going hood scoop rather than blinker duct for "quick and easy" factor. I'm already sort of regretting the cut as I'm like 80% sure that I will eventually do a FMIC. :/

 

[scottryana]

I hope the scoop ends up working for you! After driving had you tried putting your hand on the IC before so you have a rough baseline for after?

 

[Heckraiser]

Yeah its really freaking hot on both sides. I did a short drive to Home Depot with the hole in the hood and not much change (maybe *just* perceptibly less hot on the "cool" side).

I'm going to add some ducting around the hole on the underside of the hood and line with weatherstripping of some sort to make sure the air gets forced into the core.