Builds Tucker and Roma's 75 FJ40 Restore

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I had to repair both left and right fenders because the headlights had been compressed into the fenders at some point. The underlying brackets had to be removed, then the dents repaired. The the headlight attach brackets were welded back on.

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Loved that rig before the oops but this so awesome :)
 
Wow....just amazed at the attention to small details. That 1HZ is just too cool. Is it a turbo charged engine? Would love to see the specs on
one. Do you do all your own body work?

Cheers!
 
Yes, going back to Mustard yellow again. We are not doing our own body work. I found a good guy in Cullman, AL at Patty's. Rod Shop. We found a low mileage 1 hZ non-turbo. I was happy with power of old 2f, so Im thinking ill be happy with 1 HZ diesel.
 
Great restore pictures, very helpful. Have you any photos of how the roof fits to the front window. I bought a second hand roof, and it appears that the studs (or pins) that come through the gutter rail at the front where cut off for removal. Do these studs/pins just act as location through the holes in the top of the windscreen surround? I see in one of your picture when putting roof on yellow truck (sorry to see what happened) that there is two bolts at front, is that the only attachment? I have been restoring a rear cab, and roof to bring my 1984 FJ40 back to original, just about finished sides and ready to start on roof. Been looking through threads and cannot find any info, and you guys, would know for sure. Any help would be appreciated.
 
This thread is long behind and long over due for an update. I've been busy with working on a house, rebuilding a 12ht, rebuilding some cable locked axles, traveling, and getting engaged. We've been working on Tuckers rig relatively regularly and i finally have some free time today to try to get this thread up to date.

Looks like we left off with a rolling chassis modified for an h55 with a factory 40 series cross member and a full float late model rear axle with parking brake. The 2f mounts were left in place because at the time we were planning on keeping the gasser. The chassis is also modified for 60 series power steering.

we ordered a 60 series passenger tie rod end which is right hand thread pitch and has the correct ball joint to fit into the 60 steering box. When you order the link from toyota it actually comes with a new rod. Then i took the original 40 rod which held the 40 passenger side link, it has left hand threads and cut it to length. Then by splitting the new 60 rod i drove the old 40 rod inside and welded it all up. Not perfect, but works great and is just as strong or stronger than the factory setup.
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The 60 series steering box was sent off to west texas off road for a rebuild. Here it is bolted up with all new hardware and a fresh coat of por15.
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Here it is installed with all new hardware.

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We even plated the big nut and washer for the pitman arm
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The front axle will get an extended breather so, i got this factory barb that we will add some hose to once the front end goes back together.

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I had to make one custom brake line for the full float rear axle. It also is getting a breather extension. We also replated the brake line junction and barb as well as all the hardware out back.
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Looking good mate
 
With the transmission and transfer case bolted to the cross member we set out to start fabbing up some mounts. We left the clutch off the engine at this point to ease attaching it to the transmission and mated the two together. We got the radiator in place to try to position the engine as good as possible in the original 2f shroud knowing we would need to modify it some anyway.
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The clearance between the fan and the radiator is almost perfect but the up and down and the left to right needed some work. Ideally the radiator needs to move over to the passenger side as much as possible to center the fan. This also helps with clearance for the 60 power steering. Only about 1/2'' of clearance is needed for the box so we just elongated the holes that hold the radiator support on the frame brackets.
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With the engine positioned how we wanted it in the frame we enlisted the help of my friend john in making some 40 series mounts for the hz/hdt style engines. The idea was since john has a fab shop and builds parts on a regular basis to 1. the mounts would be much nicer than anything we could make with an angle grinder and a welder and 2. He would reproduce these and sell them in his online store to people doing these swaps. Here is what we came up with..
John cut out the plates out of 3/16 steel on his cnc plasma table and i welded them up and welded them to the frame.
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