TROA soft top: nice fit? Happy with the product? OEM Bows. (9 Viewers)

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The zipper teeth are plastic with metal zipper heads. They say YKK on the pull tab.

The Velcro straps that attach to the bows fit nice and tight. I have OEM on the first main bow and Real Steel on the others.
 
Thank you, I only purchased the soft top. It arrived an hour ago. It’s on the 40 in the sun to warm up. Looks good.

I have to search through the soft top post for the members with the tool that punches holes in the top for the twist locks. Kind of funny, with all the hoopla about the zippers, they are a heavy duty plastic zipper.

Thank you RevISK for all the info.View attachment 3902627View attachment 3902629

Have you got the top installation finished yet? pictures? Your cruiser appears to be either a 72 or 73? Believe hard top models would have had footman loops in the corners and only two footman loops on each barn door. Is this what soft top was made to fit?

Are the Aspens in the first picture dead? We are having a lot of Aspens dying in Northern Arizona.
 
Top not finish, Mud members Whisky mailed me the canvas punch tool, I should receive it any day now. Aspen are not dead, we are at 8k feet, they started to bloom soon after that pic.

Mines a 9/72, sold as a 73. Pics bellow, I’ll have to attach some footman loops.

After reading other TROA chats, I ordered the McMaster Carr female part, quality seems to be the same, the TROA part is a chromed steel (magnet tested), McMaster are nickel plated brass.

I don’t like the pop rivet of TROA, but that’s me, I suggest OEM twists.

IMG_1647.jpeg

Main bow over driver. Snaps, no Velcro’s but seem to fit snug. Time will tell over time.
IMG_1649.jpeg

Center bow.
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Rear
 
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Living In The Past, our Aspens are doing fine, I’ve heard in some areas they get infected and large area die off since it’s all one system.
 
Top not finish, Mud members Whisky mailed me the canvas punch tool, I should receive it any day now. Aspen are not dead, we are at 8k feet, they started to bloom soon after that pic.

Mines a 9/72, sold as a 73. Pics bellow, I’ll have to attach some footman loops.

After reading other TROA chats, I ordered the McMaster Carr female part, quality seems to be the same, the TROA part is a chromed steel (magnet tested), McMaster are nickel plated brass.

I don’t like the pop rivet of TROA, but that’s me, I suggest OEM twists.

View attachment 3915953
Main bow over driver. Snaps, no Velcro’s but seem to fit snug. Time will tell over time.
View attachment 3915954
Center bow.
View attachment 3915955
Rear
Interesting that your center bow doesn’t line up with
Top not finish, Mud members Whisky mailed me the canvas punch tool, I should receive it any day now. Aspen are not dead, we are at 8k feet, they started to bloom soon after that pic.

Mines a 9/72, sold as a 73. Pics bellow, I’ll have to attach some footman loops.

After reading other TROA chats, I ordered the McMaster Carr female part, quality seems to be the same, the TROA part is a chromed steel (magnet tested), McMaster are nickel plated brass.

I don’t like the pop rivet of TROA, but that’s me, I suggest OEM twists.

View attachment 3915953
Main bow over driver. Snaps, no Velcro’s but seem to fit snug. Time will tell over time.
View attachment 3915954
Center bow.
View attachment 3915955
Rear

Top not finish, Mud members Whisky mailed me the canvas punch tool, I should receive it any day now. Aspen are not dead, we are at 8k feet, they started to bloom soon after that pic.

Mines a 9/72, sold as a 73. Pics bellow, I’ll have to attach some footman loops.

After reading other TROA chats, I ordered the McMaster Carr female part, quality seems to be the same, the TROA part is a chromed steel (magnet tested), McMaster are nickel plated brass.

I don’t like the pop rivet of TROA, but that’s me, I suggest OEM twists.

View attachment 3915953
Main bow over driver. Snaps, no Velcro’s but seem to fit snug. Time will tell over time.
View attachment 3915954
Center bow.
View attachment 3915955
Rear
Interesting that your snaps in the center bow don’t line up with the bow itself. I have the same issue but on the bow over the drivers seat.

IMG_5429.jpeg
 
I will check tomorrow, I’ll insert
the front and side pillars. Before, I had the Best Top, it was nice but more of a plastic type top, over the driver/passenger door, the top was held in by an aluminum rod.

That section over the door, I had made from measurements I took from a SOR 40 in their show room, in person when I lived in Cali. A sheet metal shop made them, custom. I can take pics if anyone is interested.
 
installed top today except for the extra footman loops. It fits pretty good for no custom measurements. I feel over the years a lot of these rigs metal has moved, windshields shift, I’ve replace body panels so that could be issues of mine not fitting perfect.

For the sides, I started with the passenger side and pulled down hard to line up hole over the door pillar, but maybe I pulled too much, driver side couldn’t pull down as far. I’ll have to figure out a seal.

For the windshield, I think I’ll add a snap, mine has a hole from the Best Top I had.

My biggest complaint that I just noticed today. The rear bow flap is missing the male side. There is nothing to snap into. Was that flap forgotten? Or am I missing something? Maybe someone with a TROA can check theirs.
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IMG_1672.jpeg

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installed top today except for the extra footman loops. It fits pretty good for no custom measurements. I feel over the years a lot of these rigs metal has moved, windshields shift, I’ve replace body panels so that could be issues of mine not fitting perfect.


Wish you were closer would be interested how it would fit on my 73 FST. Mine is basically still original with original bows and soft doors.
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Everything fits like it should.

The distance B pillars is wider with soft doors. I need to measure further it angled from the bend on the hard top.

I would be disappointed with this fit.
IMG_1672.jpeg


Another question has any one asked if they will included? When I bought a new top from Kayline when they were still in business that included material for the doors.
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Yes, I ask and received extra material for $80. I’m purchasing some nice FST doors from a friend that are painted tan. I will then sell the two sets that I have, they need work. I am a tad disappointed but it could be my mistake from the DIY install.

I’m more disappointed in the rear bow snap/hold down. When the rear flap is rolled up, the only restraining point are the straps/footman loops on the corners.
 
I wonder if you adjusted the bows all the way out? They do have a tad of adjustment

I wouldn’t be bothered with adding snaps on the rear bow… it’s hardly needed

Unless the straps don’t get to tight?

The middle bows… yes they need it

When the rear window is down the straps hold it… when rear is rolled up it is being held by the straps

Even then it hardly moves

If your adjusted all the way out and it’s still not tight enough to your liking … you could use pipe insulation on the rear bow

Had to use that on my old kayline oem replacement top … those didn’t have any hold downs on the rear bows
 
I’m more disappointed in the rear bow snap/hold down. When the rear flap is rolled up, the only restraining point are the straps/footman loops on the corners.
Could you post a photo of what you mean exactly?
Also, @JohnnyC is right, I never installed the snaps on that bow, not really necessary. I went around the bow with the long straps and when rolled up, it’s all tight and connected there. Never thought to worry about it not being secure.

Also, I spoke with TROA a day or so ago and brought up your post delivery bill, he would like to talk to you about it. PM me if you would like.

Ian
 
I’ll PM you, I also sent an email to FedEx about stacking the tariffs. Haven’t heard back. I’ll try using the strap around the rear bow when I drive it today. Any thoughts on what the flap is for?
IMG_1680.jpeg
 
I wonder if you adjusted the bows all the way out? They do have a tad of adjustment

I wouldn’t be bothered with adding snaps on the rear bow… it’s hardly needed

Unless the straps don’t get to tight?

The middle bows… yes they need it

When the rear window is down the straps hold it… when rear is rolled up it is being held by the straps

Even then it hardly moves

If your adjusted all the way out and it’s still not tight enough to your liking … you could use pipe insulation on the rear bow

Had to use that on my old kayline oem replacement top … those didn’t have any hold downs on the rear bows

Best picture I have of the rear of the Kayline top. Have three of these tops and all use twists in the back corners. Bought this one off of a 69. Besides having tinted windows the back is shorter than the two. The height of the back now matches the height of the FJ25 and early FJ40 FSTs. The Kayline tops have a wider opening in the back.
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