Fuel tank full of rust? That's a concern. Reach your fingers into the frame and see if it feels clean or full of dirt/rust flakes.
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- Thread starter
- #22
You can see a bit of that section in the last photo on the OP. It definitely looks a bit deeper to me but not Swiss cheese.
FishTacos
Full Globetard
I agree. That still looks pretty solid back there. Time to get in there and treat it with something though. Pulling the body and getting the frame blasted and painted would be ideal. Big job though.
That thing looks rad! Fluid film the rusty bits and run it! Love that color! I wish mine were that color haha. However, if you want something that looks pretty done, check this one out...located in Cali for an extra $9k. Might save you some money in the long run.
1983 Landcruiser FJ60
California smogged 2nd owner - acquired in 1989 All work done by Toyota Dealers except oil changes All parts OEM 2 pair - off road heavy duty mud/snow tire chains/ repair kit “Thule” deluxe gear tote
goldcountry.craigslist.org
- Thread starter
- #25
That thing looks rad! Fluid film the rusty bits and run it! Love that color! I wish mine were that color haha. However, if you want something that looks pretty done, check this one out...located in Cali for an extra $9k. Might save you some money in the long run.
1983 Landcruiser FJ60
California smogged 2nd owner - acquired in 1989 All work done by Toyota Dealers except oil changes All parts OEM 2 pair - off road heavy duty mud/snow tire chains/ repair kit “Thule” deluxe gear totegoldcountry.craigslist.org
Haha good find, I reached out to them a couple of days ago. If the owner responds to my emails I will probably make an offer because that’s exactly how I would want to build it out.
Appears to be a good deal IMO.
From the pics, it needs a good bath and the frame rust and body rust appear to be minimal.
Will likely have it's share of issues from sitting for 3 years, however it runs and a good opportunity to learn wrenching
on a Cruiser. If you elect a repair shop fix the problems, it could get expensive over time so might as well get your hands
dirty now or wait for another.
I'm on the other coast (where most are rusty) so IF you decide to pass, PM me the sellers contact info and i'll make it
disappear from their driveway.
From the pics, it needs a good bath and the frame rust and body rust appear to be minimal.
Will likely have it's share of issues from sitting for 3 years, however it runs and a good opportunity to learn wrenching
on a Cruiser. If you elect a repair shop fix the problems, it could get expensive over time so might as well get your hands
dirty now or wait for another.
I'm on the other coast (where most are rusty) so IF you decide to pass, PM me the sellers contact info and i'll make it
disappear from their driveway.
Its not too bad, but I would budget for an engine rebuild in the near future. As you can see its all about the rust. Clean bodies put you miles ahead on a resto.
Springs look a bit saggy
I wouldnt have thought a weber was a con, but some say they need setting up properly. I would rather the OEM carb set up properly.
Springs look a bit saggy
I wouldnt have thought a weber was a con, but some say they need setting up properly. I would rather the OEM carb set up properly.
Yes!Hmmm is that a yes?
- Thread starter
- #29
Well you convinced me... I’m going to pick up the truck tomorrow! The adventure will start with the drive from Olympia to Seattle and a long stop at a car wash. Lots to do after that. 
- Thread starter
- #30
Head rebuild, springs, and an OEM carb are definitely in my sights. I’m hoping the PO still has the OEM carb laying around...
Head rebuilds almost always lead to bottom end rebuilds in high mileage engines. As soon as you increase the compression in the head it finds a weak spot in the bottom end , usually around the rings. 290000 miles is about the end of life for most cruiser engines, even the diesels are looking pretty tired by then.
Rusto
SILVER Star
Congrats! Enjoy every minute of it.
hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
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Nice buy, maybe bring an extra fuel jug and hose or at least something if the fuel tank is not working, there is a plug in the bottom to empty the tank, maybe empty it like that and flush with fresh fuel?
Is it far away because maybe you check the type and get a replacement belts and some oil for engine, power steering, diff and transfer, those don't like to be run without oil. Check if brakes are not sticking and can turn free when lifted (also after pulling handbrake)
3 years standing is not a real problem but the moving stuff like brake and clutch might got some rust and pitting that destroys the seal at first usage.
Probably all is ok and drivable. If you can drive abit more at the location and see if all keeps working then I would trust driving it home.
Is it far away because maybe you check the type and get a replacement belts and some oil for engine, power steering, diff and transfer, those don't like to be run without oil. Check if brakes are not sticking and can turn free when lifted (also after pulling handbrake)
3 years standing is not a real problem but the moving stuff like brake and clutch might got some rust and pitting that destroys the seal at first usage.
Probably all is ok and drivable. If you can drive abit more at the location and see if all keeps working then I would trust driving it home.
Do it, at 2500 bones if you jump into head first and decide its to much to tackle I'm sure you'll recoup your money. But being new and I learned this the hard way, if it has or gets a blown head gasket and funds get tight and you need to let it sit drain the oil and fill with diesel until you can do the repair. Good luck I'll be looking toward to your journey.
- Thread starter
- #35
The truck is mine! And it’s in front of my house! And the head gasket is almost certainly blown!
Today was interesting. The PO lives 70 miles south of me and I was ready to do the drive. My friend and I drove down, I signed the paperwork, I handed off the cash, and we turned to the road. The car started up fine but it put out a LOT of white smoke from the (abbreviated) exhaust. I still chalk this up to the bad fuel which I now regret not draining and replacing. I managed to stall it out very early on and… it needed a jump. Then the engine died when coming to a stop… another jump. PO said the battery was fully recharged so I think it’s toast.
The fuel gauge is broken so made our way to the nearest gas station to fill up. We left a lot of white smoke behind us the whole way there. At the gas station the car only took one gallon from the pump. In hindsight, this now means I have 24 gallons of contaminated fuel to drain and discard. We made it a few miles down the road to a red light immediately before the on-ramp to I-5 north. TWIST! This is when the PO pulled up next to me and, after rolling down windows, said “It looks like it’s running hot, I might recommend getting a tow.” The light turned green, I stupidly said something along the lines of “We’ll see!”, and pulled onto the interstate.
We made it 8 miles from the on-ramp. Other than a steering problem (random, hard pulls to the left) the truck was running smoothly at 55mph and 2500rpm. Then I noticed a pretty sudden loss of power. It wasn’t extreme… just enough to make me think I needed to shift down into third to get up the slope. That didn’t really help… then smoke came into the cab. Under the hood the carb was billowing white smoke and fluid was bubbling out of the top of the head cover.
This is getting long so I’ll finish this story quickly. A cop pushed the car to an off ramp, we went in search of a trailer, we gave up and paid for a tow (AAA helped), I rode home in the 60 on top of a flat bed, and finally the truck was dropped in front of a neighbor’s house so I tried to move it but… it needs a jump. That’ll happen tomorrow. Along with a good wash.
Tonight is for coming up with a plan to get the engine moving again.
Today was interesting. The PO lives 70 miles south of me and I was ready to do the drive. My friend and I drove down, I signed the paperwork, I handed off the cash, and we turned to the road. The car started up fine but it put out a LOT of white smoke from the (abbreviated) exhaust. I still chalk this up to the bad fuel which I now regret not draining and replacing. I managed to stall it out very early on and… it needed a jump. Then the engine died when coming to a stop… another jump. PO said the battery was fully recharged so I think it’s toast.
The fuel gauge is broken so made our way to the nearest gas station to fill up. We left a lot of white smoke behind us the whole way there. At the gas station the car only took one gallon from the pump. In hindsight, this now means I have 24 gallons of contaminated fuel to drain and discard. We made it a few miles down the road to a red light immediately before the on-ramp to I-5 north. TWIST! This is when the PO pulled up next to me and, after rolling down windows, said “It looks like it’s running hot, I might recommend getting a tow.” The light turned green, I stupidly said something along the lines of “We’ll see!”, and pulled onto the interstate.
We made it 8 miles from the on-ramp. Other than a steering problem (random, hard pulls to the left) the truck was running smoothly at 55mph and 2500rpm. Then I noticed a pretty sudden loss of power. It wasn’t extreme… just enough to make me think I needed to shift down into third to get up the slope. That didn’t really help… then smoke came into the cab. Under the hood the carb was billowing white smoke and fluid was bubbling out of the top of the head cover.
This is getting long so I’ll finish this story quickly. A cop pushed the car to an off ramp, we went in search of a trailer, we gave up and paid for a tow (AAA helped), I rode home in the 60 on top of a flat bed, and finally the truck was dropped in front of a neighbor’s house so I tried to move it but… it needs a jump. That’ll happen tomorrow. Along with a good wash.
Tonight is for coming up with a plan to get the engine moving again.
JayDoc
boop/bop/beep
Welcome to 60 ownership. Most of us have a similar story - maybe not the same day we bought it but you're ahead of the curve.
Rusto
SILVER Star
Yeah, white smoke and other issues are indicative of a blown head gasket or worse, like a cracked head. You should not drive this any further unless you willing to accept more permanent damage to your engine. Not to mention that its unsafe for you and other drivers around you. You should just factor in the cost of getting the truck back to your house safely back to your house with a tow into the purchase price.
Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
Don't get too scared. This won't be that painful to fix - mostly due to the simplicity of the truck's systems.
There are reams of arguments about Aisin vs Weber... I run a Weber as that's what mine came with. I've come to learn its quirks, and with that knowledge I have no issues with it. Gotta re-jet it for certain situations, but I've done that exactly twice now...one to run at 10k feet and another for running back down at low elevation. Otherwise I hit the gas once, fire it up and drive away. And I drive this thing >40 miles to work regularly.
Also, check your alternator output before you chase that battery. You should see 13ish volts at the alternator post at 1000rpms. I bet you'll see sub-12V, which is why your battery is flat.
As for the head, don't count it out yet. It's a brick of cast iron. Magnaflux doesn't lie. Pull the head and send it to your local machinist for him to run the check. Let it tell you whether or not you need a new head. If you do, you're in the right place to find one.
Let all the needs soak in, and then go get a set of tools to include a 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, and Philips (JIS drive if you can find it - and yes, there is a substantial difference in JIS vs the one you're used to). You'll enjoy wrenching on this old girl far more than shelling out once you understand that you CAN do this.
Welcome to the madness.
-Z
There are reams of arguments about Aisin vs Weber... I run a Weber as that's what mine came with. I've come to learn its quirks, and with that knowledge I have no issues with it. Gotta re-jet it for certain situations, but I've done that exactly twice now...one to run at 10k feet and another for running back down at low elevation. Otherwise I hit the gas once, fire it up and drive away. And I drive this thing >40 miles to work regularly.
Also, check your alternator output before you chase that battery. You should see 13ish volts at the alternator post at 1000rpms. I bet you'll see sub-12V, which is why your battery is flat.
As for the head, don't count it out yet. It's a brick of cast iron. Magnaflux doesn't lie. Pull the head and send it to your local machinist for him to run the check. Let it tell you whether or not you need a new head. If you do, you're in the right place to find one.
Let all the needs soak in, and then go get a set of tools to include a 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, and Philips (JIS drive if you can find it - and yes, there is a substantial difference in JIS vs the one you're used to). You'll enjoy wrenching on this old girl far more than shelling out once you understand that you CAN do this.
Welcome to the madness.
-Z
Did you check the oil before you left? Was it sitting with a cracked head or did it crack on the way home? Good luck. Don’t get discouraged it’ll all work out. I went through the same exact thing.
- Thread starter
- #40
Agreed, and done. It was towed home last night.
Thanks for the welcome and for all the advice! I'll definitely check the alternator and try to play nice with the Weber. I admit I'm biased against it just from reading mud. The needs are soaking in and the lists of to-dos and to-buys are filling out nicely.
Haha you overestimate me! The PO said he had just checked the oil and that it looked good and I trusted him. No idea if the head is cracked though that seems unlikely to me based on how decently it drove for ~15 miles. I feel pretty sure that most of the smoke was from very bad fuel, at least before the sudden power loss on the freeway.
