Builds Treebeard (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Pumping the accelerator pedal will only push fuel into the carburetor if there is gasoline in the float bowl. there is a sight glass on the front side of the carburetor. When my '85 sits for a while, I have to crank the engine a few times, then pump the accelerator pedal, then crank again (and maybe repeat) to get it to run.

check to make sure you have fuel getting to the carburetor. another option would be to spray some starter fluid into the top of the carburetor. If it starts but won't stay running, that might be a fuel delivery problem. If it won't start at all, then you need to check other things like ignition (spark), etc.
 
Finally got the truck moved in front of the house and spent an hour washing the exterior. 🙌 Needs more elbow grease, especially on the roof and hood, but this is so much better.

F80DD069-45B3-4402-BA74-FB5B92681DCE.jpeg
 
Is it possible to remove the cylinder head as one piece? I’ve done a bit of searching and everything I’ve found seems to explain how to take it apart.

Treebeard’s first glamour shot... can’t wait to get rolling.

View attachment 2197530
Yes after you remove the air clean, carb and best to remove the manifolds too. Just much easier. The head is 85lbs alone.
 
I’m out of town this week but starting on Saturday this is my plan to get the truck moving again.

1) Remove the head and deliver to Action Machine in Seattle for a rebuild
2) Drain fuel tank, clean tank, flush lines, replace filter
3) Replace head, oil fill up, add some premium gas, fire it up

Some questions…
1) Other than draining the oil, is there anything else I should do to prep for removing the head?
2) How should I prepare / protect the block while the head is being rebuilt?
3) Any recommendations for how to dispose of 24 gallons of gas? Seattle has a disposal location 2 miles from me… is it safe to transport the gas in 5 gallon buckets?

Other things I’ll be working on in the meantime…

1) Finish desmog using parts from Jim C
2) Wash the seat covers in my front-loading washing machine
3) Clean or remove carpet throughout the truck

One the truck is moving again and I can find somewhere safe to do the work I’m planning to rebuild the knuckles and replace the tie rod ends to start to address the awful steering. I may tackle the front brakes while I’m in there.
 
Gotta ask, do you recommend this as a general recommendation for a 60 owner or specifically because of something in the photos of my truck?
It’s in some rough shape and you may need one.
 
The machine shop i use charges 350 to rebuild the head when i say rebuild i mean clean,resurface,valve job,replace valve seals witch i provide oem toyota all other parts are reused like valves,springs ,retainers unless something is wrong or out of spec also if the oil galley plug fix hasn't been done yet see of they will do it for you if you don't know what that is its in the faq section of this forum. Is the landcruiser going to be inside or outside when the head is off and how long will the head be off.
Tommy
 
The machine shop i use charges 350 to rebuild the head when i say rebuild i mean clean,resurface,valve job,replace valve seals witch i provide oem toyota all other parts are reused like valves,springs ,retainers unless something is wrong or out of spec also if the oil galley plug fix hasn't been done yet see of they will do it for you if you don't know what that is its in the faq section of this forum. Is the landcruiser going to be inside or outside when the head is off and how long will the head be off.
Tommy

That's the amount I was quoted for the same work, including the galley plug fix. It'll be outside and hopefully just a couple of weeks depending on how quickly the shop can do the work.
 
Do you have a factory shop manual if not buy one it will help with disassembly and reassembly meaning you dont have to drain the oil but you can but you need to drain the coolant from the radiator and the block and all kinds of other questions.
 
Do you have a factory shop manual if not buy one it will help with disassembly and reassembly meaning you dont have to drain the oil but you can but you need to drain the coolant from the radiator and the block and all kinds of other questions.

I have a PDF of the 2F engine repair manual from 1980 but it doesn’t seem to mention draining coolant when disassembling the head. Maybe I’m looking at the wrong thing?
 
I have a PDF of the 2F engine repair manual from 1980 but it doesn’t seem to mention draining coolant when disassembling the head. Maybe I’m looking at the wrong thing?
Not being an ass but how do you think the cylinder head is cooled :)
 
You are starting a relationship. If It is love at first site, that can be very motivating and willing to give forgiveness in the future. If you are willing to try the field and wait for that perfect match and have the patience and time to see what comes along, then you may do better - but maybe not. Even if love at first sight, you need to be realistic about possible and possibly a hidden flaw. Just like a smoker to a non-smoker or a substance abuser to a non user can be a show stopper, here is a flaw to be on guard for - frame rust. Get on your grubbiness, grab a good light and wiggle around everywhere underneath poking at the frame with a screwdriver. If everything is solid, you might be looking at a proposal. This past fall was the 20 year mark owning my 60 and there has been a lot of forgiveness. And mine looks tons worse than your pic!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom