Transmission word for 100 series (1 Viewer)

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$1,700, is a bit on high side. 130K miles on low side. Don't just take their word on miles. Run carfax and study Toyota/ Lexus history.

I looked online at many engine. Most sellers, flat-out lied. I learned to do, remote inspection,. Using statements, pictures VET all info I could. Then study history. $1K or so is not a lot, but the time and labor to do over PITA.

The listing service below. Is very expensive to list in. So the smaller recyclers/salvage yards, tend not to list here. So I'd start searching locally, checking smaller yards.

www.car-part.com
 
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@TahoeZ what TC did you go with? My rig does not move whatsoever.

I've read on mud to go with an OEM Torque converter. I'd rather have mine rebuilt for the price. Can a shop beef up a TC? Does a rebuild make a TC good as new? I've found a reliable 98 transmission with 130k for 1700 delivered.

I'm draining and probably pulling the pan tomorrow.
Your "2 prong plugged sensor" is the forward speed sensor.

Based on your description, I would not have thought your problem was related to the transmission. Based on what's on the sensor, it is. Draining and inspecting further is a waste of time and effort. It has to be rebuilt...and you need a replacement torque converter.

New torque converters are available again, for around $1000. Rebuilt torque converters are running around $600 now; they were $350 a couple of years ago. For the price difference between new and rebuilt, even at $600, I'd still buy a rebuilt unit. The rebuilding process entails opening the assembly and, at the very least, cleaning it out, so the likelihood that you'll get one in good condition is high, if you buy it from a quality rebuilder. Precision Torque Converter is close to you; call them. You want their part number 6061.

$1700 is a lot of money for a used 1998 transmission. That's halfway to a rebuild.
 
The speed sensor is mounted towards the end of the transfercase.

From the sound and the metal attached to the sensor shown in the picture, it looks like the O/D needle bearings granaded and lead the self destruction inside. When you go to rebuld the transmission, you will still need a donor transmission to get all the moving gears inside. When mine did that, I too heard those cracking sound inside the transmission. The shop who rebuilt mine said only the input shaft, out[put shaft and transmission case was salvaged.

Install transfer case input oil seal and engine rear main seal (Use OEM). After the rebuild (which they will clean the lines and the cooler) you still need to isntall an inline filter to catch any broken pieces that didn' flushed out. After about 200 miles, remove the inline filter and install another inline filter...
 
I will get the OEM t case seal and rear main. And a couple inline filters. Since I'm pulling trans and t case I'm going to install high and low range Sumo gears.

Why would there be no shavings or metal of any kind from drain plug? Just curious. I pulled plug today. Caught oil in a clean 5 gallon bucket through funnel with a paint strainer folded 4 times.

The shine in the strainer are drops clinging to the screen. I'll pull pan today.

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The speed sensor is mounted towards the end of the transfercase.

From the sound and the metal attached to the sensor shown in the picture, it looks like the O/D needle bearings granaded and lead the self destruction inside. When you go to rebuld the transmission, you will still need a donor transmission to get all the moving gears inside. When mine did that, I too heard those cracking sound inside the transmission. The shop who rebuilt mine said only the input shaft, out[put shaft and transmission case was salvaged.

Install transfer case input oil seal and engine rear main seal (Use OEM). After the rebuild (which they will clean the lines and the cooler) you still need to isntall an inline filter to catch any broken pieces that didn' flushed out. After about 200 miles, remove the inline filter and install another inline filter...
There are two
 
Finally pulled my t case, pan removed, metal everywhere. No metal on dipstick or any when drained...the magnets did their job. Here's a pic of pan after pulled and what was found. Wrench for size.

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Also found this pile of ball bearings, cage, and metal on both sides behind flywheel.

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  • Wow
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I was thinking the ball bearings would be from a starter self destruct, in the past
 
I was thinking the ball bearings would be from a starter self destruct, in the past
No idea, I believe my starter was intact when I changed it at 150k. I can't remember...is there any other bearing other than the starter in that area?
 
@a31gun Since you asked this earlier: Is it dumb to buy a thousand dollar transmission out of a 98 99? Should I be wary of mileage on these?

Here's my brief story - same failure mode on an '00 4Runner. My pan looked like yours.

Not only did I buy a '98 salvage transmission, it had sat on a shelf at a junkyard for 15 years, which explained why it only had 97K miles. I had the VIN and a Carfax on the vehicle (and therefore, the transmission). Years later, it shifts flawlessly and does not leak. Short story here: 4Runner transmission story - https://risingsun4x4club.org/xf/threads/4runner-transmission-story.32243/
 
@Malleus your thoughts...? Update on post #48.
 
I can't think of where the balls would have come from offhand, certainly not the transmission. I'd think it's likely left over from someone's mess long ago.

Regarding the transmission, it looks bad, but I don't think it's unrecoverable. I'd be surprised if any of the steels are usable; that looks like where most of the coffee grounds came from.
 
@3_puppies mentioned previous starter output shaft bearing??? Sounds possible. No other bearings near this? Auto transmissions don't have pilot bearings correct?
 
The starter does have Conrad-type ball bearings:
1743100818782.png

There's nothing else in that area that I can think of that would contribute to the geocache.
 
Starters, bendex driver bearings. Look just like those you found. They'd also could easily, fall straight down to that pockets on block.
Starter old (2).JPG
 
Glad to hear! Has to be from previous owners starter blowing thr output shaft bearing. Time to continue mission.
 
I interested to see if Level 10 in NJ would rebuild the A343F. That would cost over $4,000. They build transmissions for racing. They have billet torque converters, increased stall speeds, kevlar clutches, and enhanced valve bodies.
 
Well, if he's willing to ship it to me, I'll do it, and for much less than that.
 

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