Transmission word for 100 series

[a31gun]

Correct me if I'm wrong...the 98 99 transmissions had no issues? The problem started in 00.
Is it dumb to buy a thousand dollar transmission out of a 98 99? Should I be wary of mileage on these?
More and more of this wormhole continues. Well known shops are not rebuilding the A343F. I called 10+ today nationwide. They can't offer a warranty after the rebuild because the problem was never corrected and the transmission will eventually fail again. Meaning they can't warranty their work. Reman Transmissions are far and few. Nationwide transmission shops put in my VIN to reveal there are non in stock or available. I asked every shop if they would rebuild mine, all said they don't work on these transmissions.
I'm tempted to buy the ebay transmission. I'd still ship mine to a reliable well recommended shop to keep for a backup.
Would a notable trans shop be able to diagnose my rig to tell me if it's transmission or TC? Mud has had the most info and help so far. My closest dealer can't keep a mechanic. I rarely use them. Dealer is an 1 1/2 hour drive one way with rig on trailer.

I appreciate this site and members so much. Lots of knowledge here.

 

[Bisho]

I was told by a former Toyota Corporate guy the 2000s early on had issues that were discovered to be out of spec machining (mills went out of spec over time). It was obviously corrected. I think there is generally just a lack of experience rebuilding these because failure is so rare (unlike GM transmissions that fail regularly and often).

I’d buy a used one and roll the dice if I didn’t want to rebuild it myself.

 

[Malleus]

Again, as @2001LC and @Trunk Monkey said, this doesn't sound like a transmission problem. I've had numerous conversations about availability with the Lexus dealership here and they've told me there are well over 2000 orders for A34XX transmissions in the US, with no delivery date, and this has been the case for at least two years. Apparently, Toyota has no interest in selling new transmissions and their US rebuilders have no interest in providing any factory approved reman units. This is not only for the Land Cruiser A343F, but all the A34xx variants, too.

There are reman units listed from the wholesalers, but I'd bet they have been rebuilt with Chinese parts. None of the three transmission wholesale parts suppliers (all of whom are surprisingly in Charlotte) are selling Toyota parts - they are all Chinese.

If you were closer, I'd offer to rebuild it for you, if that is in fact the problem. The job is far from difficult. As a matter of fact, IMHO, the transmission is the easiest major driveline component to rebuild, and I used to build large, off-road four wheel drive axles for Detroit. I'd choose a transmission over a differential any day.

 

[TahoeZ]

I had the transmission on my 2001 rebuilt by General Transmission in Reno NV at 225k. They did provide a warranty and it has been solid for 30k.

I agree with others that your symptoms don't sound like a transmission issue, but if it does turn out to be, give them a call.

 

[SteveH]

@a31gun - if you have a lift, pull the trans. pan at least, and see if it's full of metal filings. Not that hard or time consuming and it will help you decide the next steps. When my '00 4Runner trans fried, the pan and magnets were massively covered in shavings. Didn't have to wonder after that.

 

[a31gun]

I'm still searching for another answer beyond the trans. I'll pull pan tomorrow for inspection. Is there a way to diagnose the torque converter hands on or can a shop? I'm sure some/most of my questions are dumb, but I'm going at this open headed and all advise appreciated.

 

[3_puppies]

after removing the pan, next, drain the transfer, and maybe remove the flywheel inspection cover and look inside

 

[Malleus]

The only way to test a torque converter, other than a visual inspection of the exterior, is to spin it. Shops that rebuild torque converters have a machine to do this and simultaneously measure input and output flow and pressure. Not practical at home. No general maintenance shop will be able to do it either.

...but, based on your decription, your problem is not a transmission related problem. It's very likely not a torque converter problem either.

 

[2001LC]

Removing these 98-02 A/T oil pans are a PITA. If just removing pan, to look for metal in bottom. I'd try a borescope first.

But before that:
I'd inspect a few things, before looking into pan:

• Inspect wheel hub, hub flange and it's snap ring. (grinding sound )
• Inspect FDS (AKA CV)
• Look over, scan and listen to engine sounds. (sister said, engine died, is a clue)
• Check A/T fluid color, smell and level.
• Watch how fast or slow A/T fluid temp raises. While place under load.
• Drive and watch RPM, as A/T slips or fail it transfer power to wheels.
• If warranted. Look at flex plate, best I can.

I've lost count of how many come to me, wrongly diagnosed. Where A/T not even the issue. I just had one come in with A/T issues. It was a bad fan clutch. I've seen more than one, with engine issues. Such as misfire (no DTC (CEL)) or vacuum leak or fuel issue or EVAP or ECT issues. Making someone think, bad A/T.
Or
Where A/T diagnosed as bad. When only needed a full 12 qt flush with a good A/T fluid and level properly set.

As we all know. A "few" of the 2000 A/T had manufacture issues. Again, these usually surface in first ~50k miles.

Typically, finding a used A/T, is not difficult. Since, not much call for them. Which I'd go with used, before reman. 98-99 likely okay. But, I'd put 01-02 on my short list, first!

But don't, buy a vehicle, engine A/T, diff, etc used. Without DD, by running the VIN and study/DD history.

 

[2001LC]

There is/was a case in mud recently. Where a miss diagnostic, bad A/T (not shifting to OD). Replacement A/T found and install. A/T wire housing block noted, with corrosion inside it, by installed. ECU rebuilt/replaced and installed.

Didn't give enough consideration, to wire housing block noted as corrosion inside. Wire harness corrected the A/T issues.

Diagnistice is key, and not always easy.

 

[a31gun]

Here is the sound from my truck. It is definitely something spinning with a free floating grind. The sound fluctuates a bit. I have deleted my cats and resonator at tailpipe sorry for the rumble of engine.
The sound is from the transmission or TC. I can put a hand on most of the area the sound is coming from, but can locate exact spot.
I've never posted a video, bare with me...

 

[a31gun]

Video 2

 

[a31gun]

Truck immobile. Makes this sound upon startup. Continues through all gear selections, H and L range, CDL locked and unlocked, OD on and off. Hope this helps anyone with suggestions.

 

[a31gun]

Fine shavings found on the 2 prong plugged sensor. What is this sensor? Driver side just behind bell housing, above front driver corner on pan.
Dipstick has no shavings or serious discoloration.

 

[AARONTLC]

Fine shavings found on the 2 prong plugged sensor. What is this sensor? Driver side just behind bell housing, above front driver corner on pan.
Dipstick has no shavings or serious discoloration.

View attachment 3834545

View attachment 3834546

So I don’t know if you need a transmission rebuild or not but I looked into it a while back and made a phone call to Cruiser Bros. In Stockton California (Highly Respected Business Land Cruiser Community). They told me that if they were to have an A343F rebuilt they would take it to Legacy Transmission in Heyward California. Georg said that the guy that owns it is the “Messiah” of the A343F. At least someone to call if you have to go down that road. I personally am going to rebuild one on my own. I think I can do it. We will see. Good luck!

 

[2001LC]

Here is the sound from my truck. It is definitely something spinning with a free floating grind. The sound fluctuates a bit. I have deleted my cats and resonator at tailpipe sorry for the rumble of engine.
The sound is from the transmission or TC. I can put a hand on most of the area the sound is coming from, but can locate exact spot.
I've never posted a video, bare with me...

Bad Karma, removing anti pollution device (CAT's).

Unless, vehicle, only used off-road and trailered to the off-road location. You're public creating a permanent record, announcing your a criminal under federal Law.

Even if your county doesn't specifically require a catalytic converter, federal law still applies. Under the Clean Air Act, it's illegal to remove or tamper with a catalytic converter because it's essential for controlling vehicle emissions. So, even if your local regulations are more lenient, you could still face federal penalties for removing it.

Under federal law, the fines and penalties for removing a catalytic converter can be quite severe. Here are some key points:

1. Fines: You could face fines up to $10,000 for removing a catalytic converter.
2. Criminal charges: Tampering with or removing a catalytic converter is considered a criminal offense under the Clean Air Act.
3. Environmental impact: Increased emissions contribute to air pollution, smog formation, and potential health risks.
   

 

[a31gun]

@2001LC yes, my rig is off road now. I put under a thousand miles a year on my rig.

Can you chime in with any thoughts or ideas with my trans/TC issue?

 

[2001LC]

@2001LC yes, my rig is off road now. I put under a thousand miles a year on my rig.

Can you chime in with any thoughts or ideas with my trans/TC issue?

That said:

The sensor with metal fillings on its magnet. Looks like a speed sensor. That amount of metal fillings, sound in video and statements you've made are very bad signs.

A/T and possible the Torque Convert are very likely toast. Even if TC not toast, it could be holding metal fillings from A/T or vise versa. You could drain fluid from pan, and run through a coffee filter. To see what you get. More expensive rout, would be to the do a full flush (12qt). To see what you get filtering all 12 qts. You'll very likely find more metal.

If your A/T level was and is correct. Flushing will not likely help much, if at all. So just use the cheapest A/T fluid you can, just as a test.

Find a good A/T shop in your area. See what they think. My my bet, they'll say replace. If second opinion also says toast. Then I'd look for a used A/T and TC. I'd blow out the cooler lines before installing.

Use the vehicle VIN. Do you homework as if a used car remote purchase. By studying history and Toyota/Lexus and carfax.

 

[TahoeZ]

Sounds pretty similar to the way mine sounded. Does it drive but just barely want to move? That’s what mine did. Rebuild and new Torque Converter for me.

 

[a31gun]

@TahoeZ what TC did you go with? My rig does not move whatsoever.

I've read on mud to go with an OEM Torque converter. I'd rather have mine rebuilt for the price. Can a shop beef up a TC? Does a rebuild make a TC good as new? I've found a reliable 98 transmission with 130k for 1700 delivered.

I'm draining and probably pulling the pan tomorrow.