Transfer Case Tuneup and Fix (12 Viewers)

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Diff Kraken said:
It was not difficult to get the gears clocked correctly. Watch the video I used and just make sure to push the rods in all the way when you put the actuators back on. Once you visually study and understand the way the gears go it becomes pretty obvious and should mentally click. I had an ah-ha moment when I took mine apart and then wasn't worried at all about putting it back together correctly.
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Yeah I did read that and it seems straightforward. It's a combination of my being busy right now, knowing it'll take me 3x longer than everyone else the first time I do it, and the hassle of explaining to my wife why she can't use the truck yet. I prefer projects where I can work a little bit at a time as free time permits, rather than those which consume my whole day
 
@linuxgod hit close to Home with that line about the wife asking why she can't use the vehicle. Lol. We are lucky to have 3 vehicles, but for some reason she always wants to use the one I'm working on. 🫠😏
 
DJCloz said:
@linuxgod hit close to Home with that line about the wife asking why she can't use the vehicle. Lol. We are lucky to have 3 vehicles, but for some reason she always wants to use the one I'm working on. 🫠😏
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In fairness the LC was her DD until we got the Mini last year, and now she splits that vehicle with my daughter so the LC still gets a lot of use. It’ll get worse next year when my older son gets his license too
 
Well. I had this clicking / buzzing noise coming from the passenger side kick panel when the vehicle was off. This started happening after a night of driving in rain. I removed some interior molding to find that it was the 4WD computer. I was thinking some water got inside, but there was no evidence to support that when looking at he 4wd CPU. A bit of searching and I found this thread. I start digging near my transfer case. Take apart the actuator, yup. There's signs of some moisture in the top one. Everything works. But there's some rust. The breather tube was cracked like many others here. I did the cut / zip tie remedy. Put it all back together. No buzzing as of now. I do still have a PCS dash light on. I have cleaned the sensor, not sure what the next step is. Anyways, once again I am so thankful for this thread and the wealth of knowledge. Saving me a ton of money by once again avoiding the dealer.

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Diff Kraken said:
@isthatalexus As discussed via DM, it just shipped out your way. @linuxgod send a PM his way and hopefully you guys can figure something out and keep the MUDship moving with these actuators.

I, for one, am really enjoying instant CDL activation and deactivation :)
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Welp, I got back from a tradeshow yesterday and had some time to open the box and start fiddling. It appears that United Parcel Smashers (or like) gave the package a working over. One of the wire connectors is pretty well destroyed; I have the bits, but unclear if I can recussitate. (pic below)

In only somewhat related news, @Diff Kraken your actuator has a broken microswitch. (pic below). The wee bit of plastic was nowhere to be found, and I've torn most of the unit down. It's unclear what can be salvaged here; likely only the motors (which is a win for re-builders) and some of the near-indestructible bits. I'll post an update once I inventory and test things.

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isthatalexus said:
Welp, I got back from a tradeshow yesterday and had some time to open the box and start fiddling. It appears that United Parcel Smashers (or like) gave the package a working over. One of the wire connectors is pretty well destroyed; I have the bits, but unclear if I can recussitate. (pic below)

In only somewhat related news, @Diff Kraken your actuator has a broken microswitch. (pic below). The wee bit of plastic was nowhere to be found, and I've torn most of the unit down. It's unclear what can be salvaged here; likely only the motors (which is a win for re-builders) and some of the near-indestructible bits. I'll post an update once I inventory and test things.

View attachment 3122137


View attachment 3122139
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Yikes! Glad I bought a new actuator. Sorry the old one appears to be in such rough shape.
 
I was stunned when my seemingly poorly maintained lx went 4L instantly cold and sane with the CDL.

I will keep this thread tagged tho to remind me to exercise it regularly.
 
I took the leap today and pulled the actuator apart on my 2010 because 4lo and CDL just didnt work anymore, probably from driving theu flooded areas in FLA. with a cracked breather hose...The 4lo showed some corrosion and had water in it. After a good cleaning, the micro switch and motor both work but there is one bad micro bearing on the worm shaft, have found a replacement for that. CDL's motor is rusted solid, trying to soak it in KROIL to see if I can free it up. Thats all that appears wrong there. It seems that these motors are made from "unobtainium". May have to bite the bullit and buy a whole new actuator and canabalize it. Has ANYONE ever found replacement motors? Whats the difference between RS-455PB and RS-455PA?? Nothin's easy anymore is it??
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MrM said:
I took the leap today and pulled the actuator apart on my 2010 because 4lo and CDL just didnt work anymore, probably from driving theu flooded areas in FLA. with a cracked breather hose...The 4lo showed some corrosion and had water in it. After a good cleaning, the micro switch and motor both work but there is one bad micro bearing on the worm shaft, have found a replacement for that. CDL's motor is rusted solid, trying to soak it in KROIL to see if I can free it up. Thats all that appears wrong there. It seems that these motors are made from "unobtainium". May have to bite the bullit and buy a whole new actuator and canabalize it. Has ANYONE ever found replacement motors? Whats the difference between RS-455PB and RS-455PA?? Nothin's easy anymore is it??View attachment 3223144
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To commiserate, I searched high and low for just the motor and came up empty. I called industrial suppliers, motor suppliers, hobby stores, and of course all the internet fun. I think I put photos in this thread on how I took the motor apart, cleaned it, and reassembled. Still working to this day. Good luck and be sure you keep us posted.
 
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The A vs B is a 'particular specification', in other words, custom.
 
Well, I soaked it with oil and heated it with a light bulb and was able to get it broke free. Hooked it up to a battery and it spins just as fast as the other one. I'm goining to clean it up and reassemble with new grease and give'er a shot. Gonna try to rejuvinate the bad bearing, otherwise buy another. I wish some genius could come up with a manual control that would work. Wishfull thinking maybe.
 
MrM said:
Well, I soaked it with oil and heated it with a light bulb and was able to get it broke free. Hooked it up to a battery and it spins just as fast as the other one. I'm goining to clean it up and reassemble with new grease and give'er a shot. Gonna try to rejuvinate the bad bearing, otherwise buy another. I wish some genius could come up with a manual control that would work. Wishfull thinking maybe.
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There was a member from Germany that made a mechanical actuator for his rear diff locker. I have to imagine it would be possible make something similar for the center diff lock. That's well beyond my skill set.
 
Yea mine too,,,,,,So i was so happy to get that motor working BUT now there is no continuity between 2 circuits in the 4lo side from corrosion. Tomorrow out comes the dremel tool and the soldering iron and we'll see what happens. If nothing else. $542.79 for an Aisin Sat-024 at Rock Auto. Hmmmph. Mitch
 
Ok Guys and Gals, I'm sorry if I'm bein a pain in the ass,,, heres my question for the morning, does anyone know if the Aisin actuator motor assemblies are a direct fit into the Yota actuator body? If not then its 'MOMONEY 'MOMONEY 'MOMONEY for a Yota one. THANKS. Mitch OH Also, grease, are you all using the MolyKote YM-102 or somethjng comparable, Thanks, Thanks,Thanks....
 
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