Transfer Case Tuneup and Fix

[linuxgod]

for 4hi/4lo the microswitch probably isn't used but the cdl most likely is - cdl is not something I had to troubleshoot so I haven't even opened our one.

View attachment 3960817

Ah ok that’s the difference. My 4Lo actuator didn’t have a microswitch in it, but the CDL did. It’s a 2013 so it’s the TC made by Borg-Warner which specs 75W LF unicorn tears too

 

[isthatalexus]

@xssfox glorious autismo. hat tip!

 

[isthatalexus]

Reporting here from the middle of actuator purgatory. Just FYI for the board and knowledge base, it appears the limit switch inside the early 200 series high/low actuator is the same as the limit switch inside the front diff actuator of a 2nd gen Tacoma. I'm lucky to have junk like this laying around. I've not tried to swap it. Curiousity got the best of me while futzing around with this actuator on a 2008 200 in the shop. I'm hell bent and determined to fix this one. Just thought I'd throw it out there since these limit switches seem to be unobtanium.

View attachment 3864463

This is a brilliant discovery. There should be enough wrecked Tacos out there (just given volume) to make these findable. I did a full uninstall and rehab on my switch, and it works like a charm again, but a full RnR would have been much easier. They come out, you just have to not use gorilla paws.

 

[xssfox]

btw, before reassembling ours, I took a bunch of close up pictures of the microswitch as I thought I might need to 3d print a replacement in the future. I haven't created a model for it but I suspect a fairly standard switch could be used provided that it makes when the metal guide runs across it both forwards and backwards. I think its linked elsewhere, but the datasheet also contains probably enough dimensions as well to build a replacement. I was actually just considering trying a roller style switch.

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

 

[isthatalexus]

btw, before reassembling ours, I took a bunch of close up pictures of the microswitch as I thought I might need to 3d print a replacement in the future. I haven't created a model for it but I suspect a fairly standard switch could be used provided that it makes when the metal guide runs across it both forwards and backwards. I think its linked elsewhere, but the datasheet also contains probably enough dimensions as well to build a replacement. I was actually just considering trying a roller style switch.

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

Brosario. Whoa. I looked for that for ages! I am low skill (now verified). At one point I was just going to try to order a thousand of these and give them away to make Cruiser friends and gain Land influence.

FYI if the hair-thin copper contacts fail, the plastics won't help much. I have a thread with pictures on here somewhere where I dissect this thing. Much fragile.

Well done, again.

 

[yeLwWm]

Thank you very much for sharing the tutorial and pictures. I successfully repaired my 2008 LX570 this afternoon.

I simply cleaned it and reinstalled it without modifying the metal contacts. I think as long as the contact is good, there should be no problem.

One thing which you need to be careful is the small switches. They are very dirty inside and require patient cleaning. After cleaning, their resistance returned to normal.

 

[yeLwWm]

Before cleaning, the switch wouldn't turn on when held up by hand.

CDL position before install the motor:

H4/L4 position before install motor:

After reinstalling it, it's amazing. It used to take 5-10 seconds to turn on, and sometimes it would get stuck. Now it turns on in 1-2 seconds.

 

[isthatalexus]

Before cleaning, the switch wouldn't turn on when held up by hand.

View attachment 3972549

CDL position before install the motor:

View attachment 3972550


H4/L4 position before install motor:

View attachment 3972551

After reinstalling it, it's amazing. It used to take 5-10 seconds to turn on, and sometimes it would get stuck. Now it turns on in 1-2 seconds.

This is the way. Nice work.