I haven't tackled this yet so can't be of any help, sorry
Transfer Case Tuneup and Fix
- Thread starter TeCKis300
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- Thread starter
- #182
Just got back in. Sorry to hear you're having trouble.
I don't have much experience clocking it manually and wouldn't know how far in/out the actuator rod should be. Others may. I'd recommend to take a picture, post, and walk away for a bit.
Regarding the stuck actuator, chock the wheels and put it in neutral if you aren't already. You can also try jacking up the rear axle or both axles which should allow you to manually actuate it easier. You'll have to reference pics others have posted to find home position on both rod and gear clocking. I suspect the issue with the slow blink is primarily clocking.
I’ve heard you’re supposed to push the diff lock rod in all the way. I can’t seem to push it in or pull it out right now though. (I was able to push it in all the way I think during a prior attempt but the micro switch didn’t have continuity and I think that caused the motor to over-rotate
Yeah. If I had to do it again I wouldn't open the microswitch. Despite having a bit of copper corrosion in it, that switch is what got me into trouble.
My first reassembly I hadn't tested the microswitch and it turned out I had reinstalled it wrong (you must either snap in the right edge which is away from the switch arm first, or pop it in squarely... if the left side closer to the arm goes in first it bends the pins inside). So there was no continuity, which meant the CDL motor would spin until the end of its rotation but since the microswitch wasn't triggered the CDL just kept blinking as if it wasn't engaging.
Second time I realized how to snap in the switch. But then it apparently always had continuity (I didn't test it with a multitester at first) so the CDL light started blinking at cold start.
Third time I managed to get the continuity right by fiddling with the microswitch arms until were correct, and the multitester said there was no continuity until it was depressed. Reinstalled and fired it up and no flashing on start but when I tried to engage the CDL it would just slowly flash and I could hear the relay in the vehicle click but it would never lock.
Fourth time I pulled it I double checked everything. I also was able to push the rod into the transfer case a bit before reassembling which make me think maybe the issue was the rod position. Reinstalled but I had the same symptoms as #3 above.
Fifth time I pulled it but I couldn't push the rod in. Granted the last time I didn't *see* the rod I just pushed it in until I'd heard a metal clank and stopped, so I had assumed it was all the way inserted, but maybe it wasn't. This time I couldn't get the rod to go in at all though. Pretty sure it's fully "extended" (fully into the actuator motor housing) as I could see all the teeth plus a bit of the smooth part of the rod. Couldn't push it with my fingers, couldn't push it with a flat screwdriver as leverage. Didn't want to damage anything so I just put it back together as I need the truck running this week. Right now the CDL light is off, and 4Lo works ok, but if I try to engage the CDL I just get a slow flashing light.
If I get any other advice I may try to pull the motor again, put the truck in neutral (it was not in N when I pushed the rod in before) and see if I can make it work. Otherwise I'm just going to bite the bullet and take it to the dealer and suck up the $2 grand. (A new assembly runs about $1100 and the flat rate manual says 5.7 hours which is about $800 in labor.) I'm slightly hopeful that I can get Toyota to cover it since I reported the flashing CDL light a few times to my dealer (and I have video) but they were never able to replicate it, however I'm 36k past the warranty so I don't expect I'll get much support from Toyota.
Thanks for the detailed post and rundown. Frustrating that CDL is still stuck.
Now that you've had it in and out several times, how long does it take for install and removal?
Now that you've had it in and out several times, how long does it take for install and removal?
probably 15 minutes to get the skids/heat shield off.
maybe 15 minutes to do the motor removal. 3 wiring harness clips, one plastic wire loom retaining clip, one bolt for the grounding strap, diff breather hose (not technically required but it gets into the way when reassembling), and then 5 screws you have to use a stubby philips head on. One of them you can't see and have to really feel around for. Once you pull them it lifts right out.
Installation is as others described. It's the reverse of the above, but I used a thin, wide metal putty blade to hold the gears clocked in place when putting the motor back. You have to kind of hold the motor from the "top" side as the "front" side which is more accessible has a plastic bit for the wiring clip which won't let you hold it in place. Fitting the gears together takes a tiny bit of patience and finagling but the housing does eventually drop into place. Of course I make it sound easy to reassemble but obviously mine isn't working so WTF do I know?
Hey @Diff Kraken I see you removed the actuator housing and not just the motors. Did you do this without dropping your transfer case? I'm having an issue where after doing this my CDL won't engage now (just flashes slowly). If I have to replace the actuator assembly it would be awesome if it could be done without dropping the transfer case
@linuxgod I send power for perseverance and appeal to Zeus for your success.
When I did the actuator boogie, I did chock the wheels and do the work while truck was in neutral. The video posted by the Filipino guy in Saudi (I think) shows him spraying a hearty poof of liquid wrench into the push-pin hole in the T-case before reinserting the rods.
All this being said, and in spite of several credible accounts of 'mission accomplished,' I still believe that the rod/tooth clocking is not 100% solved. Probably, most folks get lucky.
As for the sub-micro switch: this thing is fiddly to the point of being suspected of using witchcraft. Achilles's heel, to be certain, and I do not trust that this thing performs reliably once the actuator housing has suffered an insult. I also dissected the switch and manipulated the hair-thin copper contacts. It mostly worked, but I still get in-family CELs intermittently; even when ambient temps are >90 F.
Finally, I have a latent suspicion that there is intermittent inefficient contact between the spring-loaded arms and the concentric contact array under the gears. YouTube videos have shown people gooping solder on the points with divets and sanding those down. I have yet to do this, but it's on the agenda.
I'm tied up with other (non-LC) projects right now, but the actuator housing another MUDder sent me is on the bench and will continue to serve as test mule for fix approaches. If you R&R yours, I'd be happy to send you shipping core charge so I can add it to the diagnostic set.
I've had the whole thing off, and did not drop the diff. Can be done.
Is it just that you removed the motors and then unbolted the actuator and pulled it out, leaving the rods in the unit? Or is there a way to get the whole assembled unit out without popping the motors off? (even leaving the rods in the transfer case, just being able to remove the housing and do reassembly of both motors on a bench would be awesome)
After 5 attempts I feel as if Zeus has smote me. (smitten me? I think that means something different).
I'm going to go back and re-watch the Filipino guy's video. It's hard to see what he's doing at the actuator rods other than "pushing it in" though.
My gut says the rod is probably all the way inserted and my current issue has something to do with the microswitch still not making correct contact. When the MS wasn't making any contact I had the same flashing light. I'm now wondering if the MS is only making contact when fully depressed, but the gear that contacts it isn't pushing it in fully so it's still not making the right contact. I'm kicking myself now for having pulled that switch off at all... I should've just let it be.
Any chance you're willing to mail me the microswitch in the unit you have and I'll send you my fscked up one?
In all seriousness if you (or anyone) has one that you can pop off and put on a piece of grid paper or next to a ruler so I can see precisely how extended those stupid hair-thin wires should be that *might* be helpful. Honestly though I'm pretty close to just dropping it off at the dealer next week.
I removed the housing without removing the transfer case or the transfer case rods. To install my new actuator assembly, I did exactly as the Saudi Arabia based Filipino mechanic did in this video:
Yes, I ended up figuring out that you push the rods in all the way before mounting the actuator assembly back on to the truck. In the video, the mechanic does some counting of the number of teeth on the rods, but at the end of the day I figured out it worked best to just gently/loosely push them in all the way.
Ok thanks. So you still reinstalled the motors while the assembly was on the vehicle. I was hoping there was a way to remove and test without having to remove/reinstall over and over
With nary a wrench, I present to you the photographic documentation of my previous travails. No grid paper, but maybe it gives you some directional...direction.After 5 attempts I feel as if Zeus has smote me. (smitten me? I think that means something different).
I'm going to go back and re-watch the Filipino guy's video. It's hard to see what he's doing at the actuator rods other than "pushing it in" though.
My gut says the rod is probably all the way inserted and my current issue has something to do with the microswitch still not making correct contact. When the MS wasn't making any contact I had the same flashing light. I'm now wondering if the MS is only making contact when fully depressed, but the gear that contacts it isn't pushing it in fully so it's still not making the right contact. I'm kicking myself now for having pulled that switch off at all... I should've just let it be.
Any chance you're willing to mail me the microswitch in the unit you have and I'll send you my fscked up one?
In all seriousness if you (or anyone) has one that you can pop off and put on a piece of grid paper or next to a ruler so I can see precisely how extended those stupid hair-thin wires should be that *might* be helpful. Honestly though I'm pretty close to just dropping it off at the dealer next week.
Transfer Case Tuneup and Fix
Try to start the truck. That sometimes will kick it over. Also charge your battery and give a shot on startup with the fully charged battery. The cdl can run in 4h, no need to shift to 4lo to try that out. Some have reported success after tapping on the mechanism box. Though I admit I might be...
forum.ih8mud.com
My hunch is that I f’ed up the hair thin wires in the micro switch. I pulled it apart to clean it, but when I put it back I snapped the side closer to the long arm in first. I figured out later that bent one of the two longer switch wires, and I had to straighten and figure out that the right way to reconnect the switch is to either put the far side on first or snap the switch in squarely. The switch does work correctly if I press it by hand but I’m guessing my problem is that the switch doesn’t make correct contact when the gear rotates over it. Or at least I think that’s the issue, but who the hell knows.With nary a wrench, I present to you the photographic documentation of my previous travails. No grid paper, but maybe it gives you some directional...direction.
Transfer Case Tuneup and Fix
Try to start the truck. That sometimes will kick it over. Also charge your battery and give a shot on startup with the fully charged battery. The cdl can run in 4h, no need to shift to 4lo to try that out. Some have reported success after tapping on the mechanism box. Though I admit I might be...
Dealer wants $2400 to replace the actuator assembly. I’m hoping I can convince Toyota to cover at least part of it since I reported the flashing CDL light to the dealer more than once while it was under the Toyota extended warranty and I have video of it, but the dealer claimed there were no stored codes and couldn’t find an issue.
I considered buying the Aisin part which I found for $550 and reattempting just the CDL motor swap with a known good motor/switch but I can’t tell if the Aisin part is actually identical to the Toyota one or if any of the mounting is different. The Toyota part is about $1100 discounted and I’m sure the dealer will charge the undiscounted cost because my options for this repair are limited.
If I had the time I’d keep at trying to fix this myself, but I have a trip planned with my sons this weekend and then a group wheeling trip planned to the Badlands in Indiana the following weekend so unless I cancel one of those plans I’m beholden to the dealer next week.
Fudge. Sorry, mang.
Should I tell you the time I did a multi-hour nose dive into the sub-micro switch manufacturing world last time? A desperate attempt to locate that one small bit of armor our Achillies could benefit from so dearly.
Holler if you want to send the carcas over. I figure, at some point I'll have enough of these to assemble one good one. We'll then sell that one and donate proceeds to some LC-related cause. Or, maybe we use the proceeds to bribe someone in purchasing in Mr. T's office to divulge the sacred knowledge around the origins and sources of certain obscure parts. Or we hire dedicated MUDgineer to fab our obscura for us.
If I end up having to fund the replacement out of warranty (likely) I’m going to try to figure out how to trigger the actuator correctly from a bench power supply, then determine what’s wrong with the switch and see if there’s a way to build a better one. It’s just a momentary contact switch after all. Once I’m done, it’s yours if you want it
FWIW my innards didn’t look too bad. A bit of burned grease where the motor stops its rotation but nothing which would seem to cause regular or significant CDL problems. So I’m still unclear why we all get the flashing light