transfer case stake nut and driveshaft (5 Viewers)

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hey ya’ll. I’m at a total loss here.
I got my T- case rebuilt and after a very long weekend got it back in the truck. I wanted to wait to stake the nuts till i got it in and running for a short bit to confirm i didn’t make a major error…
When i go to stake both F/R I noticed that they don't seem to be far enough on to stake properly.
IMG_8566.webp

and yes I did already torque these to the 94lb spec.

And the final part which i feel like is probably related…. I can’t fit the rear driveshaft. Its seemingly too long now….

so close….yet so far…..
 
something is wrong, there should be threads coming past the end of the nut
the backside of the flange should be up close to the housing, can't see it in the pic
 
I can grab a better pic later but you can see the flange and the housing here.
Again everything is snug. I’ve run it for 10min now and nothing has sounded off.

Should I remove the washer behind the stake nut? That might get it on enough.

IMG_8564.webp
 
I was wondering if there is a washer/spacer between the nut and flange
 
I agree it looks like a flanged nut. Not the right one. If it is pulkl the washer out and you should be fine. But you may be better off just getting the right nut.
Dyno
 
interesting. I got the rebuild kit from Cruiser Teq.
Because it's flanged will it not "stake" so don't bother wailing on it?
I'm confusing myself on all these different kinds..
I'll look into buying the right ones.

thanks fellas
 
The flange nut will take the place of the washer. Remove washer, use the nut.
Seconding this, not that Onur needs any backup. Found that out when I rebuilt my t-case last year. The new part number is a flanged nut, negating the need for the thick washer.
 
It’s a better part too.
Why have two parts when you can have one? Less stuff to fall on the floor and roll 10' away under the tool chest.
 

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