Can Transfer Case Seals be replaced WITHOUT removing the Transfer Case from the Tranny? If only the front seals are suspect/leaking, can you replace the front seals with the transfer in place?
Transfer Case Seal Replacement (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter rstoddard
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #3
Yes. Thanks. I thought so. Just wanted to confirm.
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2004
- Threads
- 1,391
- Messages
- 35,252
- Location
- 818-953-9230
- Website
- www.marksoffroad.net
Keep in mind that if the flange moves up and down when you push on the driveshaft, the new seal is not going to last.
Also consider the possibility that the yoke of the flange may be scored and you may also need a replacement flange.
Also consider the possibility that the yoke of the flange may be scored and you may also need a replacement flange.
- Thread starter
- #5
Mark, what do you suggest? What is the probability of the flange movement when mounting the driveshaft? Is that something that is likely? Can it be avoided/eliminated as a problem?
Good advice on the Yoke.
I could pull the tyranny but I like to avoid it if possible. It’s a major job with the SM420 and adapter, so it’s not something I’m excited about doing unless it’s necessary. On the other hand, there is no point in wasting time installing a seal that will likely fail. I appreciate your advice on what is the best course of action.
Ron
Good advice on the Yoke.
I could pull the tyranny but I like to avoid it if possible. It’s a major job with the SM420 and adapter, so it’s not something I’m excited about doing unless it’s necessary. On the other hand, there is no point in wasting time installing a seal that will likely fail. I appreciate your advice on what is the best course of action.
Ron
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2004
- Threads
- 1,391
- Messages
- 35,252
- Location
- 818-953-9230
- Website
- www.marksoffroad.net
The Boy Scout motto: hope for the best, but prepare for the worst. Do you know the history of the TC? Have you ever looked inside it? Maybe a more thorough service is actually required, as opposed to a one seal patch job. I have done a one seal patch job here only a couple of times, when I had enough information from the customer, as well as indicators from the TC itself to warrant it.
- Thread starter
- #7
So, are you recommending a TC rebuild?
I hadn’t considered that as a necessity, but it has plenty of miles on it. This is a 1978 FJ40. My recollection is I kept the 4 spd TC when I added the SM420 because it was more stout than the 3 TC. I’m the second owner and it’s got upward of 250K miles. It only recently started leaking badly when I changed the fluid. I haven’t actually confirmed the leak location, I’m just assuming it’s the front seal for now.
I’ll have to give you a call about rebuild costs.
I hadn’t considered that as a necessity, but it has plenty of miles on it. This is a 1978 FJ40. My recollection is I kept the 4 spd TC when I added the SM420 because it was more stout than the 3 TC. I’m the second owner and it’s got upward of 250K miles. It only recently started leaking badly when I changed the fluid. I haven’t actually confirmed the leak location, I’m just assuming it’s the front seal for now.
I’ll have to give you a call about rebuild costs.
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2004
- Threads
- 1,391
- Messages
- 35,252
- Location
- 818-953-9230
- Website
- www.marksoffroad.net
It’s not usual to see a 4 speed behind a Muncie. It happens, but the three speed is WAY more common. It would have required either a long AA adapter or a non-US input gear. In any event, I have everything in stock.
- Thread starter
- #9
Can the Tranny/TC be pulled from under the FJ40 only without removing the Transmission Cover plate in the passenger compartment? I just realized that I added a Roll Cage/Cradle and new Seats that makes it virtually impossible to remove the Gas tank and may even make it very difficult to pull the cover up and off. That eliminated any use of a engine hoist from above to secure and maneuver the tranny, so the only alternative it to secure it from below. Can it be removed with a tranny jack from below only? It may be too tough to try crawling under there and pulling it with a floor jack/tranny floor jack. Perhaps it makes more sense to take it somewhere where the vehicle can be raised on a lift and a jack stand used to secure and move the Tranny/TC?
Yes it can be done from what i've searched in the past, just easier to support from the top with a hoist
Removing trans/transfer
I need to remove my transmission and transfer case. do I need to remove the transmission tunnel? I have a 1970 fj40 .thanks
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #12
FJ40Jim C: "No, not necessary.
On the E-80 40 & 50 series, place jack under transmission.
Remove the 3 bolts in each BH mounting ear, lower the rear of the tranny/transfer down until the shift tower just clears the bottom of the shifter hole in floor.
Support rear of engine at that angle.
Remove 4 trans/BH bolts, slide trans rearward & remove."
This sounds like he is saying to loosen the BH bolts holding the BH to the engine which will cause it drop a bit to let the tower clear the hole; then secure the engine to stabilize it in that position , and unbolt the Tranny from the BH at that slight angle and pull it out.
Sounds like good advice. I think I can unbolt the "tunnel" and raise it some which may help with clearance. I may not be able to remove it but I may be able to gain enough extra clearance to clear the hole.
On the E-80 40 & 50 series, place jack under transmission.
Remove the 3 bolts in each BH mounting ear, lower the rear of the tranny/transfer down until the shift tower just clears the bottom of the shifter hole in floor.
Support rear of engine at that angle.
Remove 4 trans/BH bolts, slide trans rearward & remove."
This sounds like he is saying to loosen the BH bolts holding the BH to the engine which will cause it drop a bit to let the tower clear the hole; then secure the engine to stabilize it in that position , and unbolt the Tranny from the BH at that slight angle and pull it out.
Sounds like good advice. I think I can unbolt the "tunnel" and raise it some which may help with clearance. I may not be able to remove it but I may be able to gain enough extra clearance to clear the hole.
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2004
- Threads
- 1,391
- Messages
- 35,252
- Location
- 818-953-9230
- Website
- www.marksoffroad.net
If you’re going to try that, I’d recommend pulling the top bolts out of the front motor mounts (to keep from breaking them) as well as keeping watch over your fan/ shroud clearances and valve cover to firewall.
Things can easily get pinched while you’re being focused on the underside.
Things can easily get pinched while you’re being focused on the underside.
- Thread starter
- #14
I can't completely remove the "tunnel" cover, but I should be able to to raise it enough so that hopefully I won't need to use this method, or if I do, only to gain a small angle. If I do go that route, your recommendations are appreciated and noted.
- Thread starter
- #15
I was looking at this and realized he (Jim C) s talking about taking the BH bolts that attached to the rear motor mounts. Yep, that will cause the engine to drop for sure. I see now why Mark is recommending loosening the front top motor mount bolts, and watching the clearances, which are pretty sight. There isn't a whole lotta room to let it drop before those elements com into play.
I also realized that with the length of my SM420/4SPD TC with the AA Adapter, there isn't a whole lot of room to pull the unit straight back anyway given that the crossmember is right behind the TC, maybe a couple inches. Can anyone tell me how far the tranny has to be pulled out for the input shaft to clear? I may have to resort to angling the engine/transmission just to be able to clear the crossmember.
I also realized that with the length of my SM420/4SPD TC with the AA Adapter, there isn't a whole lot of room to pull the unit straight back anyway given that the crossmember is right behind the TC, maybe a couple inches. Can anyone tell me how far the tranny has to be pulled out for the input shaft to clear? I may have to resort to angling the engine/transmission just to be able to clear the crossmember.
This is what the others are referring to. Tilt or lower the rear of the drivetrain so the t-case can clear the torque tube behind it.
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2004
- Threads
- 1,391
- Messages
- 35,252
- Location
- 818-953-9230
- Website
- www.marksoffroad.net
You really need to be able to pull straight out of the BH about 4” to make sure you don’t bind/bend the clutch disc. Can you get away with less than 4”? Probably. Should you try? Not recommended.
- Thread starter
- #18
I'm ready to pull the TC and Tranny. I was able to raise "tunnel" cover some but and create some rear space but I've still got about 1-1/2 inches of the shifter tower still above the cover, so I'm going to have to try to tilt the engine. I have a couple of of questions and would appreciate comments/ guidance:
1) I took off the single front motor mount (hold down) bolts (L/R) per the suggestion from Mark, above. (Note: Those bolts seem VERY short, only 3/4" which was a little surprising). My question is, do I need to worry about the alignment of the bolt holes when I tilt the engine back up? Are they going to shift on me and make reinstallation of the engine difficult? Anything I should do to prevent them from getting out of alignment?
2) How should I secure the weight of the engine when/after removing the rear motor mounts? Is it OK to secure the weight using the oil pan skid plate?
3) Do I need to drain the engine oil? Am I going to lose any oil out the rear seal after tilting the engine an inch or two?
4) Do I need to pull the brake off the TC before I try to remove it? Seems like a definite yes, but just confirming.
Finally, if I can't get Mark to rebuild this sucker for me, does anyone have any recommendations for a a good mechanic who can do a quality TC rebuild in Arizona or in the Southwest?
Thanks, Ron
1) I took off the single front motor mount (hold down) bolts (L/R) per the suggestion from Mark, above. (Note: Those bolts seem VERY short, only 3/4" which was a little surprising). My question is, do I need to worry about the alignment of the bolt holes when I tilt the engine back up? Are they going to shift on me and make reinstallation of the engine difficult? Anything I should do to prevent them from getting out of alignment?
2) How should I secure the weight of the engine when/after removing the rear motor mounts? Is it OK to secure the weight using the oil pan skid plate?
3) Do I need to drain the engine oil? Am I going to lose any oil out the rear seal after tilting the engine an inch or two?
4) Do I need to pull the brake off the TC before I try to remove it? Seems like a definite yes, but just confirming.
Finally, if I can't get Mark to rebuild this sucker for me, does anyone have any recommendations for a a good mechanic who can do a quality TC rebuild in Arizona or in the Southwest?
Thanks, Ron
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2004
- Threads
- 1,391
- Messages
- 35,252
- Location
- 818-953-9230
- Website
- www.marksoffroad.net
Ron,
Sorry I couldn’t get back to you yesterday. It’s really busy right now. Even busier than before I retired!
Based on my current workload, it would be about six weeks before I could get to this. At some point I’m just going to start saying no. Give me another jingle when you get it out and I’ll let you know where I’m at.
As far as supporting the engine, put a block of wood in front of the flywheel on the front lip of the bellhousing that will stick down lower than the flywheel. If were a quick out and in, I’d use the oil pan. But with several weeks of downtime, I’d either support it elsewhere, or bolt the rear back up.
Hth
Sorry I couldn’t get back to you yesterday. It’s really busy right now. Even busier than before I retired!
Based on my current workload, it would be about six weeks before I could get to this. At some point I’m just going to start saying no. Give me another jingle when you get it out and I’ll let you know where I’m at.
As far as supporting the engine, put a block of wood in front of the flywheel on the front lip of the bellhousing that will stick down lower than the flywheel. If were a quick out and in, I’d use the oil pan. But with several weeks of downtime, I’d either support it elsewhere, or bolt the rear back up.
Hth
- Thread starter
- #20
Mark, thanks so much for your reply. I know you are busy, and I know at some point you are just going to turn away business. I was hoping I could get it out and get it to you and you could get to it when you have time. If that’s end of January, middle of February, I’m okay with that. I’d just like to have you do it if I can ask you to do one last TC rebuild before you call it quits. I have a brother in Huntington Beach I should visit so I don’t mind driving it over at the end of Dec or first of Jan. I’ll call when it’s out, and probably after the holidays so I’m not bothering you.
Thanks for the advice and for considering doing this.
Thanks for the advice and for considering doing this.
