Transfer Case Rebuild with new gears (2 Viewers)

[thetoyotaman]

Used a differential side bearing puller to pull the inner race.

Dropped off the case and bell housing to the machine shop for cleaning.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Does anyone know what temperature range the Toyota FIPG can be applied? I’m a little concerned about this with assembly in a cold garage that can be in the 30s. Thanks!

 

[Flipped Bezel]

Based on your picture & PN 00295-01281 you look to be using the correct red transaxle FIPG.

I found these specs below regarding different Toyota FIPG types on another Tacoma forum. According to these specs you should be good to go once cured. Not sure how much effect cold temps will have on getting the gaskets set. Hope it helps.


BLACK
Retains high flexibility, oil resistance properties through use of a patented adhesion system. Temperature range -65ºF to 500ºF (-54°C to 260°C) intermittent; resists auto and shop fluids and vibration.

RED
Temperature range -65ºF to 650ºF (-54°C to 343°C) intermittent; resists auto and shop fluids. First generation 1970-1980 gasket maker. Formulated for hi-temp applications, or heavy-duty use (such as towing, etc.). Coats pre-cut gaskets to increase reliability.

BLUE
Makes reliable “formed-in-place” gaskets that resist cracking, shrinking and migrating. Coats pre-cut gaskets to increase reliability. Temperature range -65°F to 500°F (-54°C to 260°C) intermittent; resists auto and shop fluids.

ULTRA GREY
Designed specially for high-torque and high vibration applications, like those common in import engines, this premium RTV gasket maker exceeds manufacturers' performance requirements. Noncorrosive and low-odor. Maximum vibration resistance, with outstanding resistance to oils, cooling and shop fluids. Guaranteed not to leak. Temperature range -65ºF to 500ºF (-54°C to 260°C) intermittent.

 

[Shoredreamer]

I don’t know but I used a floor heater and faced it at the housings when I was assembling to get the metal warm. Didn’t want any moisture on the surfaces I was applying to. Kept the FIPG in the house.

 

[thetoyotaman]

I’m having trouble finding the torque specs for the bell housing to transmission bolts and the transmission transfer case extension housing bolts. Not seeing it in the FSM. I know I can use the bolt guide in the front of the manual but prefer to see an exact listing.

 

[thetoyotaman]

On a side note, I’ve been having trouble with the bottle jack on my 12 ton press. This has been making some of the jobs more difficult. It just wouldn’t retract fully. Doing a little online research I ran across this article and it worked. I’m now going to warm it up and see if I can change the hydraulic oil in it with some Mobil DTE 24 I have and see if poor quality oil is part of the problem.

 

[LC4LIFE]

I am nearly done with my case. I am doing both the UD and low range gear sets. I have been working on it for a couple hours each day for the last four days. I should have it back together tomorrow.

I learned a few lessons though.

It's awkward and messy
Have a large jaw puller, it helps with some gear removals
If your doing the bearing in the front housing, get your patience in order. Its hard to remove, the gear pull is odd and removing the shaft is not at all like the FSM states.
I would also replace 90311-48016 at the back of the transmission. It would really suck to have to pull the t-case a second time to swap this one.
Take lots of pictures during disassembly, it helps if you brain is old like mine.

 

[TNOverlander]

Agreed on the front bearing access gear pull... I had to think on it for a night; my puller that was long enough was too wide to fit that deep. The one narrow enough was too short... I ended up using the flat metal pieces from the large puller to double the length of the flat metal plates of the small puller to make the narrow puller longer. Still just barely fit within the case walls.

I am nearly done with my case. I am doing both the UD and low range gear sets. I have been working on it for a couple hours each day for the last four days. I should have it back together tomorrow.

I learned a few lessons though.

It's awkward and messy
Have a large jaw puller, it helps with some gear removals
If your doing the bearing in the front housing, get your patience in order. Its hard to remove, the gear pull is odd and removing the shaft is not at all like the FSM states.
I would also replace 90311-48016 at the back of the transmission. It would really suck to have to pull the t-case a second time to swap this one.
Take lots of pictures during disassembly, it helps if you brain is old like mine.

the

 

[LC4LIFE]

Agreed on the front bearing access gear pull... I had to think on it for a night; my puller that was long enough was too wide to fit that deep. The one narrow enough was too short... I ended up using the flat metal pieces from the large puller to double the length of the flat metal plates of the small puller to make the narrow puller longer. Still just barely fit within the case walls.

I did similar. I hacked together a puller from my steering wheel puller, some allthread rod , bolts and thick washers to get under the gear. Barely worked, but it did. It's the length to get down inside there and the tight quarters that is the catch.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Thanks for the tips! I’m hoping to get back to this very soon but I decided to order a tool set for pressing bearings as the tools I was using in the past on my Trooper don’t fit the Land Cruiser.

 

[rc51kid]

Any chance you could post up a list of tools you needed other than normal hand tools? Trying to deside if i want to do this myself or not.

 

[thetoyotaman]

So far I’ve used a bearing press, seal installer, seal puller, Torx bit, rubber mallet, and typical 6 point socket. Planning on using some combination of pullers, bearing separator and sleeves.

 

[LC4LIFE]

So far I’ve used a bearing press, seal installer, seal puller, Torx bit, rubber mallet, and typical 6 point socket. Planning on using some combination of pullers, bearing separator and sleeves.

^^this^^

And, I used the following as well- 4x4 timber for stabilizing the case, flat head screwdrivers, pick tools, gray scotchbrite, dead blow hammer, lock ring pliers, torque wrench, bearing splitter, and a grinder with both a flat disk and a cut off wheel.

Its all basic tools, with the exception of the press and pullers. I used the 'loan-a-tool' program at AutoZone for the bearing splitter.

I would also say watch the @OTRAMM videos. Very well done and super helpful in getting your head around what needs to be done and deciding if you want to tackle it yourself.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Ah, forgot the 4x4 block, snap ring tool, picks and screwdrivers. Lots to keep up with!

 

[Box Rocket]

Good info guys. Thanks for sharing. I've got a spare tcase I've been planning to do this with. Still debating the UD gears, but plan to do the low range ones.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Follow up on the bottle jack, the tip in that thread got it going again. Time will tell.

The wiring harness flex loom on the tranny/transfer case is brittle and missing some pieces. Need to rebuild as well. Wires look good though. Probably caught just in time. Not sure if this is heat or age related at this location.

 

[LC4LIFE]

The wiring harness flex loom on the tranny/transfer case is brittle and missing some pieces.

Mine was the same. I just sectioned some loom and wrapped it with electrical tape to keep it in place.

 

[thetoyotaman]

I measured it and ordered some 15mm black flex loom and 15mm wide blue electrical tape. Fun to keep OE style as much as reasonably possible.

 

[Shoredreamer]

My loom was exactly the same. Weird how that works, ha. Reloomed and good to go. Must be super hot up there. I’ve seen a few CDL motor harnesses cracked too on top of the case.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

All three cases I have have had crumbling harnesses. Lately I’ve been a fan of the mesh type split loom. I don’t know if it would last longer but I like how water can’t get caught in it.