Transfer case re-gearing

[-Spike-]

I wouldn't say they're close to the same price once you factor in installation. Transfer case gears are easy enough to change in your garage without anything too specialized. Setting up a differential on the other hand is quite a bit more specialized and typically not something most people on this forum would be capable of doing in their own garage without a not insignificant investment in job-specific tools and time spent learning.

The parts for axle regearing are about half the cost of both high and low range t-case gears. You can have the gears professionally installed in your loose thirds for the difference, plus have some cash left over for axle seal kits. You can expect to pay $1600-$2k for the job, if you pull the thirds. If you're willing to dig into your t-case, you're capable of pulling the thirds and resealing the axles while you're there. The t-case gear sets are going to set you back somewhere between $1400- $1800 or so (I can't find pricing on the high range set), plus incidentals. If you just want to drop off the truck and have someone else do all the work, you're going to spend a lot more, whether you do the axle gears or the transfer case gears.

If you only want a lower low range, the t-case gears are a no-brainer at half the cost. If you want lower gears to compensate for larger tires in both high and low range, it's a push. If you need to reseal your axles and/or want to install lockers and/or want a different ratio than what is offered for the t-case, axle gears are the way to go. IMO there's no big advantage to either method mechanically, if the ratios work for you.

 

[-Spike-]

E-Locker or open/ARB/Detroit/other?

We are ~$1100 for two loose diffs built with 4.88's, all new bearings, etc. $1250 if you have e-lockers as bearings are more expensive. Put them in a bucket and send them our way. Shipping is $50-75 per/diff each way so that may may your local shop the logical choice. Our diff guy has done hundreds of Toyota 3rds for us, sometimes 4-5 a week, he's an 80 and 100 guy too so there is that

That includes all the parts? That's much cheaper than both high and low T-case gears.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

That includes all the parts? That's much cheaper than both high and low T-case gears.

Of course. All name brand great parts. We can also bump the front to 29 spline pinion (Nitro Gear), add $60 for that with a new 29 spline flange and seal. Parts only (assuming one can do the setup) for the diffs alone is ~$700 & $850 for e-locker. HRUD/3.1 T-Case gears are going to be closer to $1230 for gears only, $1700'ish with a T-Case overhaul bearing kit at the same time. As always there are other things to consider particularly when re-gearing such as knuckle and axle bearings, etc. Our thoughts on that here: Cruiser Outfitters

 

[iptman]

Fwiw It does in fact remove the center diff.

D'oh

 

[80t0ylc]

Ok, so here we go - I will be getting into both axles for some needed maintenance, installing lockers & re-gearing. It sounds, to me, like for re-gearing for performance gains, you can either re-gear diffs or regear TC (center diff). Leaving cost out, is there an advantage - like for strength, longevity, stress limits of drive train components or something else to go one way or the other? My use of my '94 is overlanding with trailer. Also used for DD when weather conditions dictate. Rig is currently armored up and weighs 6400 lbs empty, so there's been a performance difference from stock and running 35" tires are the icing on the cake - that's the reason for re-gearing. Since I need to get into both 3rd members, it's obvious to regear diffs. I guess my question is, other than cost or opinions, what if any, are the down side(s) to each way?

 

[-Spike-]

Ok, so here we go - I will be getting into both axles for some needed maintenance, installing lockers & re-gearing. It sounds, to me, like for re-gearing for performance gains, you can either re-gear diffs or regear TC (center diff). Leaving cost out, is there an advantage - like for strength, longevity, stress limits of drive train components or something else to go one way or the other? My use of my '94 is overlanding with trailer. Also used for DD when weather conditions dictate. Rig is currently armored up and weighs 6400 lbs empty, so there's been a performance difference from stock and running 35" tires are the icing on the cake - that's the reason for re-gearing. Since I need to get into both 3rd members, it's obvious to regear diffs. I guess my question is, other than cost or opinions, what if any, are the down side(s) to each way?

Most diff gear failures are attributed to low carrier bearing preload and/or other setup issues. If set up correctly, the diff gears should be just as reliable as stock diff gears or t-case gears. Possibly even more reliable than stock with a lot of mileage, with new bearings and tighter tolerances. The t-case gear install doesn't have a bunch of variables to screw up, so I'd guess there's less chance of something going wrong.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

From a cost aspect, it's a wash and/or less expensive to do axle gearing IF you are already going into your axles to do service i.e. full rebuilds AND you can get deeper high range gearing. If you planned to go to 4.88's with the 35's (our recommendation would be 4.88's for 35's) then you're going to feel shorted when you only get 4.56-like gearing out of the under-drive gears. However if you were thinking of 4.56's anyway, well you've got a fun decision to make. I'd let the deciding factor be the other plans for the t-case. Planning to do a part-time kit? Planning to also do low-range gears (which would arguably be waste on an "overland' build depending on your actual plans) or rebuild/service the case?

 

[scottryana]

bUT WHAt aBOUt thE TiREs?!?

 

[iptman]

Well since you mention them.... I've enjoyed running around with my 285s and the UD gears. I was planning on bumping up to 315s since my Goodyear MTRs are worn out but now I'm not so sure.

 

[scottryana]

Haha I am not being serious. I understand where both sides are coming from but it really is just a matter of nomenclature. When someone says "gear ratio" it means gears when someone says "effective crawl" it means MPH/RPM which includes the tire size.

People were arguing the same thing just using the wrong names

Well since you mention them.... I've enjoyed running around with my 285s and the UD gears. I was planning on bumping up to 315s since my Goodyear MTRs are worn out but now I'm not so sure.

 

[80t0ylc]

Most diff gear failures are attributed to low carrier bearing preload and/or other setup issues. If set up correctly, the diff gears should be just as reliable as stock diff gears or t-case gears. Possibly even more reliable than stock with a lot of mileage, with new bearings and tighter tolerances. The t-case gear install doesn't have a bunch of variables to screw up, so I'd guess there's less chance of something going wrong.

From a cost aspect, it's a wash and/or less expensive to do axle gearing IF you are already going into your axles to do service i.e. full rebuilds AND you can get deeper high range gearing. If you planned to go to 4.88's with the 35's (our recommendation would be 4.88's for 35's) then you're going to feel shorted when you only get 4.56-like gearing out of the under-drive gears. However if you were thinking of 4.56's anyway, well you've got a fun decision to make. I'd let the deciding factor be the other plans for the t-case. Planning to do a part-time kit? Planning to also do low-range gears (which would arguably be waste on an "overland' build depending on your actual plans) or rebuild/service the case?

Thanks Kurt & Spike! I've been talking with Ken (Zuk) and he will be doing the rebuild, repair and install of Nitro 5.29s and F & R Harrop lockers. His experience, familiarity with Toyota 3rds and excellent quality work is why I'm choosing him. I was originally going to go with the 4.88s, but with the weight of my rig, towing a trailer and Ken's recommendation for my use, I decided to go with the 5.29s. Also, with overlanding being my main use, I'm mainly interested in hi-range in the t-case, as Kurt mentioned. I want to keep the full time original t-case for now. I've got 275 K on odometer, so for peace of mind for long overland runs, I want to get axles solid, setup for my use and concentrate on t-case down the road. It's been solid and the CDL is working flawlessly and is a big advantage on snowpacked/icy roads. The Harrop selectable lockers will give me added performance, since my rig didn't come with e-lockers. Might even convert to 6BT diesel & part time or a manual tranny later as miles pile up and engine, tranny & t-case need attention.

Edit: Oh BTW, Kurt. I got both axle rebuild kits from you - Cruiser Outfitters. Awesome kits! I chose the Koyo kits. I'm doing the axle rebuild (except 3rds), myself.

 

[Qball]

Of course. All name brand great parts. We can also bump the front to 29 spline pinion (Nitro Gear), add $60 for that with a new 29 spline flange and seal. Parts only (assuming one can do the setup) for the diffs alone is ~$700 & $850 for e-locker. HRUD/3.1 T-Case gears are going to be closer to $1230 for gears only, $1700'ish with a T-Case overhaul bearing kit at the same time. As always there are other things to consider particularly when re-gearing such as knuckle and axle bearings, etc. Our thoughts on that here: Cruiser Outfitters

Is that also using nitro’s master kit with solidly crush washers?


I’m not going to think about this anymore because if I do that with while I’m in there might as well throw in the Harrops......slippery slope! I don’t need it, I don’t need it, I don’t need it.......

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Is that also using nitro’s master kit with solidly crush washers?...

Solid spacers would add another $80'ish.

 

[80t0ylc]

Is that also using nitro’s master kit with solidly crush washers?


I’m not going to think about this anymore because if I do that with while I’m in there might as well throw in the Harrops......slippery slope! I don’t need it, I don’t need it, I don’t need it.......

Lol....I know exactly what you mean. Originally, I was just in the market to get a leaking rear pinion seal fixed. Then I'm thinking, well you been bit**ing about it being gutless for so long, since adding all the armor. Why not re-gear while you're in there. Well, if you do that, you have to re-gear the front, also. Then you realize, while I'm in there, why not add lockers? So what started out as roughly $500, now is $4500...!!!

AGHHH...lol

But, hell...it's still cheaper than a new rig & it's an 80...right?!

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I have not, it's odd as some application guides recommend it be used with the 60080/60100 H/L gears but others do not and they physically fit without. I've got one on order. I'm still a little foggy what it offers beyond the OE 36221-60121?

Finally snapped a pic of the M gear

You have a chance to play around with one yet @orangefj45? I've got a loose case here we are playing around with as time allows.

 

[HDJdreams]

Kurt are you stocking the 1.1 and 3.1 gears now?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Kurt are you stocking the 1.1 and 3.1 gears now?

Yup: YWST: Low Range T-Case Gear Sets for the 1980-2007 Cruisers

 

[HDJdreams]

Yup: YWST: Low Range T-Case Gear Sets for the 1980-2007 Cruisers

Awesome! I was going to get these but I’ve been getting too many other goodies from you lately.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

This is what 1.09677:1 High Range and and 3.1672:1 Low Range TC Gearing Looks Like

TCG900731 & TCG9007UDHR Shown

 

[GuinnessTLC80]

Hi,
does anyone know will the MC kit (Land Cruiser Crawler Gears | Marlin Crawler, Inc.) be suitable for the PartTime version of TLC80 TCase?
If not, are there some other solutions to lower the low gear for such a TCase type?