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It's from Toyota, one of the places it's published is the NCF document.
Transfer case re-gearing (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter NielsC
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It's from Toyota, one of the places it's published is the NCF document.
iptman
SILVER Star
I thought I had seen that graph somewhere. I looked in my Land Cruiser Legend book but didn't see it there. NCF?
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New Car Features.
Ah yes. I see it now. Scale the HP down to equal the torque and it'll match up like it should. Makes sense meow. Torque is a HP multiplier in the equation(imperial units anyway). Funny how you see things you're sure of represented in a strange way sometimes.
What area are you in SD? I see eastern...... SF, Watertown, or not that far over?
Right on the MN border between Watertown and Brookings. Tiny town that doesn't even justify paying a mailman. Met @HARDGEAR already and gave him a bunch of sh*t I didn't need. lol he told me about an OHV area in Appleton,MN and I went up there a couple months ago and actually used my front locker for the first time.
Valley Hybrids in Stockton CA has a bunch of different ratios for high range gears, as well as the popular low range gears.
(209)475-8808
(209)475-8808
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IIRC, 5200rpm. There is an ECU rev limiter, have experienced it, but was too busy at the time to look at the tach!
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5252 would be an empirical result for 1FZ-FE. It redlines at 5000.
Anyway, 2000 - 4200 should be the sweet spot for this engine.
When it shifts from 1st to 2nd it falls off the power band below 2000 RPM, worse yet is when you take a turn at a relatively low speed and the transmission shifts in 3rd at maybe 20 MPH. It falls below 1500 RPM and it is so sluggish to rev up and get up to speed, it's maddening.
Any regearing should theoretically help in those cases. Of course there will be nothing better than a better geared transmission. One can dream right?
Anyway, 2000 - 4200 should be the sweet spot for this engine.
When it shifts from 1st to 2nd it falls off the power band below 2000 RPM, worse yet is when you take a turn at a relatively low speed and the transmission shifts in 3rd at maybe 20 MPH. It falls below 1500 RPM and it is so sluggish to rev up and get up to speed, it's maddening.
Any regearing should theoretically help in those cases. Of course there will be nothing better than a better geared transmission. One can dream right?
Maybe your transmission kick-down cable needs adjusted. That seems to indicate that.
the KD works. I just don't usually drive my cars by flooring them all the time.
In a manual mode tends to work better.
In a manual mode tends to work better.
So at this point in 2019 the best that is offered for the 80 seires Tcase is a 3.3 to 1 final drive, I guess that better than nothing.
I currently have the 3 to 1 Tcase gears, 37s on stock 4.10 gears... I surprisingly like the rubber OD & running up hills in 2nd gear like @Tools R Us wrote earlier in this thread, but I'm wanting a bit more down hill control then I have know. Its good there are options...
BLA BLA BLA I'm boring my own self, sorry you had to read that. It looks like I need to decide on 5:29s or 4:88s, but that is for another thread... later.
I currently have the 3 to 1 Tcase gears, 37s on stock 4.10 gears... I surprisingly like the rubber OD & running up hills in 2nd gear like @Tools R Us wrote earlier in this thread, but I'm wanting a bit more down hill control then I have know. Its good there are options...
BLA BLA BLA I'm boring my own self, sorry you had to read that. It looks like I need to decide on 5:29s or 4:88s, but that is for another thread... later.
you can change out your high side gears for less than the axle gears. i would start there and see how that helps.
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The '80 is what ~25yrs old, classic cars don't need crawler gears?! As a niche market vehicle, quasi classic, be happy for what we have! If you are spun about it, could step up to a more modern rig, the Rubicon comes with 4:1 low range.
IMHO, the '80 is a great "universal wheeler" like a swiss army knife, does a lot of things, but no matter what you do to it, is never going to be a great rock crawler. Having the automatic/torque converter is a good thing in a big wagon, adds flexibility, forgiveness, with a slight penalty on long downhills, but the brakes work for that. The flip side, with low gears, low range speed is reduced, so end up rowing the transfer shifter between hi and low.
For what the '80 is good at, it works well. I'm over the lower gear thing, like long ago.
1973Guppie
Supporting Vendor
you need to go to 5.29s, I have 315's, 4.88's and the low tc gears, fantastic off road for what I do, it was a life saver last year at the rubithon, I used to mash my brakes, don't consider my truck a rockcrawler but it does alright at all it and is damn comfortable on the ride to the trail and home.
What would something like micro polishing do for TC gears? Would this service have any effect on noise or just longevity & heat? Pricing says $150-$350 for R&P.
Drivetrain friction is priority 1
Whenever people tell us they’re looking to free things up we always point out that priority #1 is the rear end. We cannot over emphasize that.
www.microblueracing.com
With all due respect, I think the 80 is a lot better Crawler then people give it credit for. When I am out on the trail with the guys I wheel with People expect the built, linked 4 runners, Taco's & jeep buggies to go right up a Obstacle, when i follow them right up then they are impressed. My 3xlocked with 5.29 , 37s , 3.1 TC gears out Crawls Rubicons Jeeps all day Long
Tank5
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@cruiseroutfit It has been a little bit but I see earlier in this thread you mentioned a modified idler gear that may be used to reduce gear noise. At the time it was mentioned it didn’t appear anyone had experience with this gear installation and if it reduced noise. Have you had the chance to install one and can you share how well it worked to reduce gear noise?
I am using an early HF2A transfer case that I installed MC 3.1 low range gears (got them in a trade deal). Never had the chance to use the transfer case prior to the gear install but after installing the gears and tcase there is a good amount of gear noise coming from tcase. I am wandering if the modified idler gear would make a difference?
I see others have had similar gear noise from these gear sets. My noise is present in high and low range. Not sure if that makes a difference, I also wonder how much noise should be expected. I don’t want to find out down the road I have a different issue in the the case.
If anyone else has experience please chime in.
I am using an early HF2A transfer case that I installed MC 3.1 low range gears (got them in a trade deal). Never had the chance to use the transfer case prior to the gear install but after installing the gears and tcase there is a good amount of gear noise coming from tcase. I am wandering if the modified idler gear would make a difference?
I see others have had similar gear noise from these gear sets. My noise is present in high and low range. Not sure if that makes a difference, I also wonder how much noise should be expected. I don’t want to find out down the road I have a different issue in the the case.
If anyone else has experience please chime in.
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
If you only installed the low range gears the. You should NOT be experiencing any noise in high range unless there’s another issue in the Tcase; either bearing or gear related.
We’ve installed dozens of these gear sets and have never had any type of noise in high range.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers
Tank5
SILVER Star
@orangefj45 thanks for responding and sharing that information. That is what I needed to know but not what I wanted to hear. I was sorting guessing this might be the response, the tcase noise doesn’t sound reasonable. I will add rebuilding the transfer case to the todo list.
I appreciate the help.
I appreciate the help.
