Builds Trail Tailor- Custom Armor Build plus a few things (1 Viewer)

[DirtNap]

Looks *really* good in the color match. I like the way you bent the hoop tubing to echo the grill shape and even the 2 outer ones vs. the headlight shape. This may be a newb question, but when one does a high-clearance bumper like this, is there any issue with the parts exposed under the bumper getting damaged? Or are they behind the plane of the wheel, bumper, and center skid? How does that work? TIA!

With some repair and the addition of a bullbar the @TonyP ORIGINAL TRAIL TAILOR V1 front is still going strong.

Headed to a Overland Georgia Trip now.

J

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Looks *really* good in the color match. I like the way you bent the hoop tubing to echo the grill shape and even the 2 outer ones vs. the headlight shape. This may be a newb question, but when one does a high-clearance bumper like this, is there any issue with the parts exposed under the bumper getting damaged? Or are they behind the plane of the wheel, bumper, and center skid? How does that work? TIA!

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Looks *really* good in the color match. I like the way you bent the hoop tubing to echo the grill shape and even the 2 outer ones vs. the headlight shape. This may be a newb question, but when one does a high-clearance bumper like this, is there any issue with the parts exposed under the bumper getting damaged? Or are they behind the plane of the wheel, bumper, and center skid? How does that work? TIA!

Radiator, lines, etc are all protected by the bumper. The tires, struts and KDSS are more exposed, but only plastic covered them to begin with.

J

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Rear HD tow points are cut and delivered to the machine shop.

J

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Rear shock guard jig will be made tomorrow.

Thanks for the patience guys. Been slammed and I'm behind a bit.

J

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Rear shock jig was made and got a couple sets made.

170.00 shipped bare metal.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Just finished up the drawings for the tailgate lid.

There are very few holes in the tailgate that are the same dimensions on top and bottom. So, gonna ask the question for the guys that might be interested in this mod.. use the holes that are already stamped in the tailgate for simple bolt up or for a more aesthetically pleasing product, require drilling a few new holes. I'd of course supply the drill bit and all hardware. Looks like it would require 6 holes to make it look nicer from a bolting perspective.

Thoughts? Picture shows the exact placement of the stamped holes in the tailgate for a visual reference. You can see what I'm talking about.

Just so everyone knows there is quite a bit of room in there compared to the other tailgate lids I make.

A 100 series dual door for another visual reference.

Jason

 

[tbisaacs]

I would drill holes for this

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

I would not want to drill holes, and wouldn't buy it if I had to.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

I would not want to drill holes, and wouldn't buy it if I had to.

Out of curiosity. To install this (like all my other storage lids and all others similar on the market) you have to cut out the internals with a jigsaw/cutoff wheel. If all the holes are left as is on the stamped tailgate this still requires a bit of modification to the tailgate to install. So, what would holes matter.

This mod is like a snorkel install.... cutting the metal requires some insanity, but if the end result is what the person is after... its all good.

J

 

[Markuson]

Are the holes on the interior only?

If so, I’d be ok with that so long as tge structural strength isn’t compromised.

My main hope would be to maximize the usable space, and would love if it was lockable.

Also... Would love to keep a usable surface on the table-like tailgate.

If there is a way to lock an AR, or short-ish shotgun, etc in there, that would really be useful to me...especially if I could add a sturdy, customizable foam insert. Not for ultimate gun security, but more to just keep fumbling family hands safely away...and a spot to keep one somewhat handy.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Also, a single door or double door like the 100 series above. All my others are doubles. For guys with drawers, you can still operate drawers with one side of the tailgate open, etc..

As far as strength goes the lid has a full inner perimeter backer to full support the doors. 2-3 guys can stand on these without issues.

J

 

[Markuson]

Also, a single door or double door like the 100 series above. All my others are doubles. For guys with drawers, you can still operate drawers with one side of the tailgate open, etc..

As far as strength goes the lid has a full inner perimeter backer to full support the doors. 2-3 guys can stand on these without issues.

J

If two doors still open up the full length...then two doors would be ok to me. But if it means splitting the width into two smaller spaces, it would kill the ability to fit a rifle.

Would also be super helpful to seal out liquid spills. The stock lids don’t do this...and I’m sure I’m not the only one spilling drinks on my tailgate/table. Maybe a gasket around the edge? I think you already mentioned that way back but can’t remember.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Are the holes on the interior only?

If so, I’d be ok with that so long as tge structural strength isn’t compromised.

My main hope would be to maximize the usable space, and would love if it was lockable.

Also... Would love to keep a usable surface on the table-like tailgate.

If there is a way to lock an AR, or short-ish shotgun, etc in there, that would really be useful to me...especially if I could add a sturdy, customizable foam insert. Not for ultimate gun security, but more to just keep fumbling family hands safely away...and a spot to keep one somewhat handy.

Read next post on strength. The door is 8.5" x 47" approx. that opens to a 12.5" x 52" x 3 to 5" depth cavity. I have guys that store guns, hi-lifts, fishing poles, etc.. I don't recommend the Hi-lift... but to each their own.

I only use Southco sealed lock lever latches. All my other lids have button head fasteners, but this one will have a single hidden piano hinge, countersunk hardware and solid rivets. The latches will sit approx .109" above the lid surface.

J

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

If two doors still open up the full length...then two doors would be ok to me. But if it means splitting the width into two smaller spaces, it would kill the ability to fit a rifle.

Its a full pass-through with dual doors.

J

 

[Markuson]

Read next post on strength. The door is 8.5" x 47" approx. that opens to a 12.5" x 52" x 3 to 5" depth cavity. I have guys that store guns, hi-lifts, fishing poles, etc.. I don't recommend the Hi-lift... but to each their own.

I only use Southco sealed lock lever latches. All my other lids have button head fasteners, but this one will have a single hidden piano hinge, countersunk hardware and solid rivets. The latches will sit approx .109" above the lid surface.

J

Wow. That would be an extremely useful space to me with that longest dimension...especially because most drawers max out well under 40” inside.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Wow. That would be an extremely useful space to me with that longest dimension...especially because most drawers max out well under 40” inside.

It's a cool mod, but not for everyone. I like to keep all my recovery straps, extra syn lines, lighter repair items (hoses, belts) roprs, wool blanket etc... in mine.

J

 

[Roy Park]

Would these be locking?

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Would these be locking?

Yes, Locking Southco lever latches.

 

[Blasst]

Jason,
I need some kind of date for my bumpers. I'm down to the line now. I'm loading my second shipping container June 22 then flying overseas. So we aren't far from your predicted date.

May 3rd you thought "the absolute worst case would be 2nd week of June."

May 19 I was told it "would be 2 weeks"

If I don't have time to install them I can stick them in the container and do it in Ukraine.

Thanks for the help,
Jim